Map 1 / Click to enlarge

Map 2 / Click to enlarge

It had been raining continuously during the past few weeks and the waterfalls were living their dream. It was time for another waterfall hunt and the idea was further facilitated by my friend Amila who said lets go on a bike ride and find few cascades tomorrow. So as usual this bike ride was planned on 8pm on the previous day and to be successfully carried out on the following day. Harinda decided to break the silence and join in this venture after a long pause and Sri was ever so ready to explore some beauties. We decided to explore Wee oya valley of Yatiyanthota and Ritigaha wahaka oya valley in Bulathkohupitiya , targeting few hidden cascades that were waiting until some waterfall lovers visit them.

So all four of us got together as planned at 4.30am at Maharagama and headed towards Avissawella, where the magical sun rise over Kelani River forced us to step on the breaks. Next stop was Karawanella where we had our breakfast and also packed up some bread as lunch and hurried towards Yatiyanthota. From Yatiyanthota we took the Seeforth road along Wee oya valley. The scenery towards Wee oya forced us to take few stops even before we had a glimpse of the first cascade of the day. Wee oya falls can be viewed cascading from the slopes of the opposite mountain resembling Diyaluma falls just before reaching Halgolla. In parallel to it another cascade could be seen plunging down and we named it Wee oya 2 falls.

dawn over Kelani valley

the kelani river flows peacefully

the 1111′s

on the road

a dam of Wee oya

endless rubber estates

Wee Oya ella 1

Wee Oya ella 2

Just before reaching Malalpola we came across a road side cascade called Malalpola falls where we shot some close ups before heading towards Malalpola junction where Kithul falls could be found. Kithul falls is another road side beauty which has got its name because of the abandoned Kithul trees in the vicinity. From here onwards the houses and the boutiques seemed to be belonging to some other decade from the past. Next road side beauty was Punugala fall which is formed by Anda dola, we enjoyed this beauty from the bridge rather than attempting to get to it by donating some blood to the blood suckers . This waterfall plunges down through a canal in a rock wall in an angular fashion. On the way to Amanawala we did see another cascade plunging along the steep rock on the opposite hill which is called Gorok fall and there was a temple at the base of it. There was a small reservoir across Wee oya close to it which we decided to explore on our way back. Before reaching Olu falls we did come across few road side Cascades where we didn’t forget to photograph.

endless scenery on seeforth rd

Peella

malalpola falls

Kithul ella

top of it

ancient looking

road side antique houses

Punugala fall(Andadola cascade)

part of it

Punugala distant view

the temple at the base of goraka ella

goraka ella

another view

cascade at hagolla upper part

cascade at hagolla

a beauty

Close to Amanawala we went across a wooden bridge and suddenly noted that we were crossing Olu ella and again the breaks were put in to action . Olu Ella which is said to be the 5^th highest in Sri Lanka has many levels and from the bridge one can easily visualize its upper and middle parts. Since it had rained during the past few days the waterfall was in full flow.  Few locals who passed by advised us not to get down from the bridge, showing us the danger that awaits us. Whenever a vehicle crosses the wooden bridge our legs had a free massage due to the shakiness of the planks. Just passing the bridge there was a foot path towards Wee oya which we took and reached the base of the lower part to get a full view of the waterfall. The slippery rocks made our task very difficult than we expected. Though we had a good view of the cascade from this point it is said that a better view could be gained from the power house on the opposite bank of Wee oya. Just like all other waterfalls we came across up to now Olu ella also terminated in Wee oya which eventually joined Mighty Kelany river. On our way back we did not forget to enjoy a walk along the suspension bridge across Wee oya which we noted previously.

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Olu Falls

Between 15 and 18m wide, and 100m tall, Olu Falls is an impressive sight. it cascades downwards in four streams into a pool at the base known as Olu Dola. The waters then merge with the Wee River, before flowing into the Kelani River, near the Saman Temple at Yatiyantota. The water serves the areas of Mevia and Gilma.

A wooden bridge spans the river and during rainy weather the fall’s spray soaks passing villagers. The local people have noticed that the water volume has started to decrease, though there is still enough to sustain them. The water is also used for several turbines in the area and to irrigate the surrounding paddy fields.

The fall can be found 19km along the road from Yatiyantota town, heading in the direction of Seepotha (Galle District, Yatiyantota PC Amanawela GS area). The Kitulgala rest-house is 34km away.

Olu ella

top most part

the wooden bridge

the riders!

a glimpse

full view of Olu fall

lower part

a swallow

next target wewelthalawa

Wewelthalawa mountain

safety first

for them its a routine

At the bridge we did note a mighty mountain and when we inquired about it the locals said it was called Wewethalawa/Wewelthalawa, suddenly I remembered that I have been thinking of getting to the top of it for ages and since there was a road to the top of it we decided to give it a try. On the way back we arrived at Halgolla tea factory where we pumped some air in to Amila’s bike before starting to ascend from that point onwards. The road which branches out from Halgolla tea factory was winding around the mountain and rapidly gaining elevation producing some stunning scenery which is a pleasure to the eyes. After about 7Km’s we reached a significant landmark at the base of the rock called Dripping rock which is a place of worship for the locals. The name has been given to this point because of the continuous drooling of water along the rock for about 100m during the whole year. It is one of those unique places one needs to visit whenever they get a chance. Passing the dripping rock we further ascended uphill through the forest patch of Amanawala reserve and on the way we did note cable carts which once carried tea leaves from Wewelthalawa to Halgolla tea factory and immediately we did stop to have a better look at this masterpiece from the past. After tackling the winding uphill route with many hair pin bends we reached the plateau of Wewethalawa which seemed like a hidden heaven on top of a mountain and the summit of it was seen to be having two transmission towers. From the plateau we had to proceed to the left from the Budhdha statue and the road begun to get bad to worse within no time. The scenery was priceless and it did force us again to have some quick stops. On the way we came across a memorial done in remembrance of the WW2 and we were clueless of its significance.

endless scenery on the way to Wewelthalawa

plenty of u turns

approaching the dripping rock

and it felt like it was raining

yep it does drip

continuous shower

place of worship

through Amanawala reserve

used long ago

suddage weda

the starting point of the cable carts

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

scenery from the the plateau at wewethalawa

beauty

the plateau at wewethalawa(wewelthalawa)

tea it is

towards the summit

it says sour memories of WW2

The road through the forest patch towards the summit is a 4 wheel ride and you really need a 4WD to tackle this road. Our bikes faced many obstacles on the way through this forest patch which was similar to Horton plains. At some places we even had to push our bikes for few meters. The road is in terrible condition and we did suffer the consequences later. After tackling the last 5Km we reached the summit which was covered with mist. After passing the SLBC tower we reached a closed gate towards ITN transmission tower where we had to get special permission to proceed in which we achieved successfully. Unfortunately the mist was not in our favour so it obscured a panoramic view towards Colombo and Kitulgala areas. If you have been to Kitulgala you would have noted Wewelthalawa transmission towers clearly. We were shown a foundation of building from WW2 era, where the British had their military camp and a main communication and observation tower during that period. It was time to leave this summit which was 4200ft in altitude and reach the drier Bulathkohupitiya region. The descend was equally difficult and we did manage to get down with caution, Amila’s bike had already lost some air and we needed to get it fixed ASAP so we had to skip the Observation point at Wewelthalawa Plateau this time. When we reached the Seeforth road both bikes had punctured tubes and that summed up the road condition to Wewelthalawa.

difficult terrain

SLBC

SLBC tower at Wewelthalawa

a palm tree

its flower

it was like horton plains

misty

life

harinda posing

ITN Yatiyanthota transmission tower

minature habitat

it never cleared off

remains of the WW2 watch post

remains of the foundation of the British army base during the WW2

the gap we came through

where we were

after we went it cleared off a bit

the plateau at wewethalawa

free day is used for collecting wood

once served a purpose

getting gloomy

its going to pour down

at Parusella junction

road side cascade on parusella bulathkohupitiya rd

After repairing the two bikes of Amila and Harinda we reached Parusella junction and headed towards Bulathkohupitiya Rd. while heading towards Bulathkohupitiya along Ruwanwella rd we noted Punahela falls on the right hand side of the road close Ampagala. Next stop was Bulathkohupitiya junction. After buying some stuff we headed along Dedugala road. Next attraction is Rikili ella which springs down the slope of a hill on the left hand side to end in Ritigaha wahaka oya and you won’t miss this waterfall which has a road side name board same as the next two waterfalls. After passing few more Km’s we reached the board saying Nalagana ella where we proceeded along the foot path which led towards it. This is my second visit to these waterfalls almost after 4 years that is. At Nalagana Ella we came across a couple who was in deep romance and didn’t note us until 5 or 10 minutes passed by. To get a closer view of this beauty I did crawl upon some boulders with some difficulty but at the end the view was ever so rewarding. This was the most beautiful waterfall for me on that day. It was Dancing down just like a Nalagana and it think that name suits her very well. We did have our bread as lunch and headed back to the road in search of the next road side beauty which was Rukmal Ella. Rukmal ella is yet again another road side attraction which one will come across while traveling up to Dedugala.

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Rikili Falls

The source of the 30m fall is the stream flowing from the northern side of the Hunusahaldeniya mountain range (600m). It flows via Ritigaha to the Kelani River. It is 5km from the Dedugala highway, and the nearest town is Kitulgala.

Nalagana Falls

Springing from the Ritigaha Oya reservoir, the Nalangana Falls comprises a number of chutes, each measuring about 40m in height. The fall is situated at Dedugala, 9km east of Bulathkohupitiya. The nearest town is Bulathkohupitiya, and the Kitulgala rest-house is 41km away

Rukmal Falls

This 20m rukmal fall is best viewed from the highway. To reach it from Bulathkohupitiya, travel along the road to the east for 13km. It is 45km from Kitugala rest-house.

Suramba falls(Punahela fall)

close up

a nice shower

its base

Rikili ella

close up of rikili ella

the cave at its base

Nalagana falls

top of Nalagana fall

like a veil

full view

a cascade close to nalagana falls

Ritigaha wahaka oya

interesting mushrooms

hodala (do not eat)

front view of rukmal ella

Rukmal fall

beautiful

After passing Dedugala we proceeded further 5Km to reach Ihala Pelanpitiya “kada mandiya” where we asked directions about a hidden beauty called Diyagirena/ Diyangiri / Devagiri Fall. And to get to it we had to proceed on a newly concreted road and then descend through the tea estate until we reached the base of this 90m tall cascade which was like a creation in heaven. The term “Diya agirena Ella” suits it very well. After snapping around we removed all those leeches that hung on us and proceeded up hill to witness the sunset through the Ihala pelanpitiya gap. According to locals on a clear day when the sun is vanishing off one could easily appreciate the BOC tower and the twin towers of WTC at Colombo but we were not so lucky on that day. It was almost 5pm and we had to rush back towards the main road to end our waterfall hunt with some treasured memories. We somehow reached Avissawella close to 7pm where I said good bye to my friends and headed back to Monaragala.

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This 90m fall was previously known as ‘Diyawegirena Falls’, denoting its perennial flow, but underwent dialectal change to its present form. The plants in the surrounding Dedugala Reserve have valuable medicinal qualities but are being pilfered by unscrupulous thieves who sell them as ornamental plants. Local villagers are calling for urgent action to protect the existing plants and to grow more. The government has already started taking steps towards this. The fall is located at Pallampitiya village, Kegalle District (Kegalle Electorate, Bulathkohupitiya Divisional Secretariat no.131B, Pallampitiya area). It is 96km from Colombo, 24km from Navalapitiya and 3km from Dolosbage. From the Upper Pallampitiya village bus stop, take the road to Kelvin B Colony for 2.5km to find the fall.

gap towards colombo

rocks and clay

glimpse of Devagiri or Diyangiri or Diyaagirena fall

beautiful Diyaagirena fall

lovely

ihala pelanpitiya gap through wee oya valley

Thursday 11 July 2013.
1.28am:

“Good Morning! What’s up? Getting ready?” – came Tony’s reply on Thursday 11 July morning.
“I’m sorry Tony, I’ve got fever and been shivering like a Polar Bear without its fur coat. What do you think” – I asked Tony coz he’s a medical guy and got tons of experience under his belt.
“How do you feel? Coz if you’ve fever, we shouldn’t go. What do you think?” – Tony sounds like my Montessori Teacher.
“I’m not sure, but I can’t miss out on this one even if it means the end of me” – ever so stubborn my inner self retorts.
“See how you feel and let me know; I’m ok to postpone this” – Tony trying to cheer me up.

If you wonder what Greek I’ve put up, please accept my apologies. This was the conversation we had just before our mega journey we had planned from 11 July to 14 July. However, I felt very weak and feverish in the middle of the night and the conversation Tony and I had was what you had to read up front…

It came as a nightmare coz I’d never before fallen sick or anything making me to postpone any of my trips but as the saying goes there’s always a first time, this had to be it. I then called my other two friends and put off the journey for the following day coz I was intending to make it at all costs whether I got better within 24hrs or not.

My doctor had to listen to all the complaining and he duly prescribed me some medicine diagnosing it to be a viral flu (damn all of them) and said I should be ok by the following day but walking long distances wouldn’t be a good idea. I already felt better hearing those words.

Having taken my medicine like the God himself presented, I was ready to go and informed Tony and others that we’re after all going ahead even though they were skeptical about my health condition and rightly so. Coz I didn’t feel myself and the bitterness in my mouth won’t simply go away reminding that the fever is still lurking inside me.

The following morning I got up even though I felt like I had chained to the bed and called the rest of the guys and to make matters worse, Lasantha said that he’d got something that had to be attended to and will join us the following day. Can something go more wrong than this? I then joined Tony at the fort railway station and bought three tickets for Kandy to find that my other friend, Dimuthu, is getting late. I was fuming inside and trying my best not to show it when I asked him to come to Kandy straight in the first bus.

However, it turned out to be a hidden gem as we managed to learn a lot of new things and see a lot of unseen during that time. So all good things come at a price and they come in many disguises. So if something like this happens to you, don’t regret it or get worked up. There’s always a silver ray in every dark cloud, if not try to make one.

National Museum of Kandy – Where our heritage speaks

Tour Highlights:

1. Garrison Cemetery, Kandy
2. National Museum, Kandy

Tony and I had a nice little chat along with our snacks till we reached Kandy around 8.30am. Dimuthu was still in Ambepussa which means good two hours for us to kill. Having taken some pics of the bunnies in the front garden of the station, Tony and I headed towards “Dalada Maligawa” but couldn’t try to go inside as I was in shorts. So when we were passing Maligawa, suddenly a thought struck me. I had been trying to visit “Garrison Cemetery” for a long time and this looked like a very good opportunity.

These are new fellows…

Hugging and eating… cutie bunnies

Know the name?

Never got the chance to see up close

Would’ve been a grand bathing place

Not Donald Duck…

Ducklings nestling together

How many of these structures go unnoticed?

This is what it had on the body… Map of Kandy in 1815 – Click Image to Enlarge

As usual, parents were trying as if there’s no tomorrow to take their kids under the belly of this jumbo….

Kandy lake standing tall, and cleaner

Garrison Cemetery, Kandy

Tony readily agreed and we went searching for it and found it right behind the Maligawa. There was a public toilet just passing the signage where Tony put on his make up while I convinced the caretaker to keep our bags till we returned with a small amount of money.

Entering the cemetery makes you feel just like another typical cemetery but there was this uneasiness (if I may say so) as well. We saw plenty of tombs rising from the ground and two people (an older and a younger fellow) were working on the ground planting grass. Only visitors were Tony and I so it was possible to check the place out in our own leisurely manner. When I was taking a few pictures, Tony the chatter-box, got into conversation with the older person whose name was “Charles”.

He was a very knowledgeable and friendly person who immediately stopped his work to explain the importance of the cemetery and other historical facts. According to him, wild boars are a major threat to the cemetery compound as they come and dig around the graves looking for something to eat. Since there’s no wall but a chain link fence, resulting many wild boars coming from adjacent “Udawatta Kele” forest patch and digging around.

Charles uncle said that they have to replant all the grass everyday dug by the wild boars and we witnessed virtually every place is scattered with dug out earth and grass and they trying in vain to restore them.

Funnily enough, Tony found some common gossips to talk with him too. Apparently he’s heard about Tony’s great grandparents and grandparents. They were talking like long-lost family friends while I was happily picturing everything I could within that time.

Apparently Price Charles was due to visit the cemetery during his visit to SL in 1998 on our 50th independence celebrations but the LTTE bomb had made him change his mind. So much for the ever so brave British Empire.

General Info about Garrison Cemetery:

1. The land mass of the Garrison Cemetery is 0.75acres.
2. There are about 195 graves according to the leaflet printed by “Friends of the British Garrison Cemetery” but Charles uncle said 163 tombs and around 450 bodies buried. (There are graves with more than one body)
3. First grave was of Captain James McGlashan who had died at the age of 26 on 2 December 1817. He had fought alongside Napoleon Bonaparte in Waterloo and many other places such as Busaco and Albuera.
4. The last grave belongs to James Henry Fretz and his family of 6 members on 03 Mar 1951.
5. Edmund Sampson Waring’s tomb was a somewhat special one as he was considered by the British as a traitor. He was supposed to fight “Veera Puran Appu’s” army to safeguard the Kachcheri of Matale, but when the army surrounded the Kachcheri, he fled and saved his life leaving Puran Appu’s army to burn the place down.
6. There was the tomb of the Governor William Henry Gregory’s (1872-1877) wife Elizabeth Gregory too among them.
7. We even saw the Cargills Machinery Suppliers grave which might have been extended to the the birth of current supermarket giant.
8. Main causes for deaths in that time had been Malaria and Cholera.
9. British High Commission of SL has agreed to build a wall around the cemetery to safe guard it better
10. The cemetery is mainly run by the Ministry of Defense in London through the Commonwealth Graves Commission in the UK.
11. You can see the famous John Doyly’s grave at the cemetery. He was said to be very fluent in Sinhala and behind the conspiracy which led to the brutal killings of Ehalepola Family. Gajaman Nona, famous poetess from Matara had addressed him with a set of verses.

When you visit don’t forget to talk to Charles Uncle and he’ll load you with all the info you need to know and I tried vehemently to jot down as much as possible. He’ll show you the tiny Dutch church in front of the cemetery which houses the original map of the place and will even present you with a leaflet with some important details of the people who are buried there.

Having made a small contribution towards the restoration of the cemetery, we bid our farewell to Uncle Charles and retraced our steps. Collecting our bags and saying our thanks to the caretaker, we started descending back towards the road when I remembered that there was the museum next door. Turned around and asked the caretaker if we could visit the place and he nodded and that’s all I wanted.

Entering the Cemetery Road, you can see the museum from here

Through the stony entrance

Various tombs scattered around

The last erected one of James Henry Fretz

The Prominent one is John Doyly’s

It says it all

From far corner towards the entrance

Uncle Charles, the caretaker

The traitor’s tombstone

The one with the fence around it belongs to a kid, there are plenty of like these… in some graves, 6-7 people are buried together

Governor Gregory’s wife

See the wild boars’ digging?

Another one, the writing slowly fading away

More than 160 tombs in all

The door of the tiny church like building

The map of the cemetery – Click Map to Enlarge

Pics taken during restoration work – Click Image to Enlarge

Article published on Sunday Times

This is the interior

They are keeping records of everyone buried there – Click Image to Enlarge

The cards are nicely indexed

This is the church

National Museum, Kandy

I always want to visit a museum whenever I find one coz that’s where you can learn many things and see hundreds of invaluable artifacts and documents of our history. We bought our tickets and I had to pay 250/- for taking my camera with me which I duly obliged. There was a place with a sign saying “Keep Your Baggage Here” but it’s now occupied by security personnel so had to leave our bags just inside the museum.

What I found very amusing was a bronze statue of Governor Henry Ward at the front of the Museum. It wasn’t Veera Puran Appu, Gongalegoda Banda, Keppetipola Adikarama or any other national heroes’, but the British Governor Henry Ward. I felt disgusted at the attitude of our archaeological gurus and patriotic maestros. Why on earth do we keep one of invaders’ (who looted our country and made our people slaves and destroyed our culture) statue at the front of a key national museum? What a crazy bunch of people are we?

Entering into the museum, I already felt time goes back hundreds of years in seconds. There was this guides (I hope that’s what you call them who’s supposed to roam around you answering any questions you have) whose name was “Shanta” who joined us touring the museum complex.

There were all sorts uniquely Kandyan dresses, jewelry, evidence of ways of life, furniture, weapons and many other things. Then Tony as usual got into talks with our guide and he was very curious about our plans rather than trying to explain what’s inside the museum. When I asked him when the museum was opened, he said must be in the 1960s. He works for the museum and he had no clear idea as to when it was opened. Hilarious, wasn’t it?

When Tony mentioned about our plans to visit Meemure, he wanted to know everything about Meemure and what’s there worth visiting and I was wondering if we were taking him a guided tour to Meemure or he was taking us a guided tour of the Museum. Most of the time, Tony played the guide and he the tourist and I was constantly annoyed seeing this joke enfolding in front of me.

There was no one nearby other than this fellow who could answer a basic question and I started to question the use of employing people like these paying so much money but not getting enough in return. Imagine how they were gonna give info to foreigners? (I don’t intend to criticize the whole bunch of them and know that there are many who really try to give as much info as possible to visitors)

There was another friend of him (must be another guide or an employee) who joined our conversation about visiting Meemure. Can you imagine our plight? I asked if the museum houses many swords and they had no idea and I had to check it for myself coz I wanted to picture them all in case another Super Human broke into that just like Colombo National Museum. At least I’ll have pictures of them with me.

The most intriguing bit was the number of knives and the jars containing fetuses of animals and complete snakes. They had done a very good job of preserving them. While I kept an close eye on the clock as we had our main journey ahead of us and waiting for Dimuthu to arrive in Kandy, Tony had been talking to those guides about Garrison Cemetery coz we had just visited the place.

Seeing how curious Tony was about the cemetery, our guide had shamelessly offered an original map of the cemetery and other artifacts (saying he knows somebody who owns them) for Rs. 100,000/-. I didn’t get to know until we were well away from the museum coz Tony decided that I might make a scene inside the place (I guess he thought exactly right coz I had a good mind to go and make a really big scene).

Can you believe this? How am I ever gonna believe those artifacts in the museums are what they call they really are and not fakes designed by some crooks selling the originals to the highest bidders by those greedy employees and their henchmen? Who can guarantee those swords, jewelry, clothes, documents, etc are not fakes but originals? I’ll really be very suspicious hereafter of the authenticity of those things.

I think our archeological department and the relevant authorities who are responsible for museums and other valuable things must look into this very closely and get rid of these crooks as soon as possible. If not, our museums will all bear fake stuff while the originals are carried away by Super Humans and whoever can pay the highest amount.

We reached Kandy Station around 10.45am and met with Dimuthu and went in search of a Mahiyangana bound bus coz our main aim was elsewhere.

So that was my tiny fairy tale about the unseen of Kandy even though it’s somewhat filled with venom due to the wickedness of our greedy crooks. I hope you learnt something out of this.

Will soon see you all with my next fairy tale which I’m holding very close to my heart.

Take care.

In we go to the museum

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Now you can’t keep your baggage, it’s occupied by security

Nice touch to the background but pointing towards the Maligawa

Why or why this couldn’t be one of our heroes who sacrificed their lives for this country???

The whole premises

At the entrance

Another angle up close

Soon as we entered

A shirt or a blouse? but in Sinhala, it was mentioned as “Hattaya” even for men

Familiar stuff of Kandy Perahera

This one lady’s

Couldn’t get the name, coz of that nosey guide

More stuff belonging to royal families

Belonged to Molligoda Adikaram

Various kinds of jewelry

More artistic creations

Along the passage where either side is loaded with artifacts

“Kinissa”

Complete set of clothes of the person in the pic

Sorry to have missed the name

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Another set of clothes

The writing says “Four corner hat with the flower tree”

Hanging lamp

Vase built using coconut shell and wood

Very artistic and I’m guessing it’s a vase or a hand-held lamp

Wooden plane

Another lethal weapon

More lamps

More artistic things

A gun powder flask made of Wild buffalo horn

Another Dutch gun powder flask made of some kinda horn

Wooden creativity

Another inside but smaller than the outside one

“Dandu Kanda” (stocks for the feet in 17-18 century)

Knives all around

Replica of the Sun using knives

“Karaduwa” (small container where Tooth Relic like sacred or worthy things kept)

Top part of a bracket pillar

Gold plated reliquary from Hanguranketha

Various guns

Revolvers too

More containers

More nicely crafted cutters

Another one

Just like a diver looking one

Daggers used in Ancient India

Blades of different sizes

The name is used very often for surnames “Kodituwakku”

A statue of a Nilame

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Female of a royal family

The containers that I was highly excited about – Click Image to Enlarge

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.	.Divi Makuluwa I think, the name had fallen off

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Skull of a croco

The second stage with wooden furniture kept

Just finished….

During my waterfall hunting at Matara district, I have noted there are some old cave temples as well. Some of them are belong to Anuradhapura and Pollonnaruwa periods. These Buddhist temples are popular among nearby villagers. But not familiar to others. Therefore I decided to note down some information about these places to others also.

I have visited following cave temples during my journey.

• Elamaldeniya RMV (එළමල්දෙනිය රජමහා විහාරය)
• Gatabaruwa RMV(ගැටබරු දේවාලය හා රජමහා විහාරය)
• Thunbawila RMV(තුන්බැවිල රජමහා විහාරය)
• Budugala/Rotumba RMV (බුදුගල-රොටුඹ රජමහා විහාරය)
• Meemanagalkanda cave temple (මීමනගල්කන්ද ගල් ලෙන් විහාරය)
• Umangala/Amangala Owagiri temple (උමoගල/ අමoගල ඕවාගිරි රජමහා විහාරය)

Black star – Elamaldeniya RMV | Red star – Gatabaruwa Dewalaya | Purple star -Thunbawila RMV | Blue star – Budugala cave temple | Green star – Meemanagalkanda RMV | Click Map To Enlarge

Brown star-Amangala /Umangala RMV, Blue star-Atamba tree

Elamaldeniya RMV (එළමල්දෙනිය රජමහා විහාරය)
This is one of a fascinating temple I have visited.

Direction
Akuressa->Pasgoda via Imbulgoda->Elamaldeniya.

There are buses from Akuressa to Pasgoda via Imbulgoda. You have to get down at Elamaldeniya.
Then you need to arrange a three wheeler up to the temple. The road goes through the Elamaldeniya forest reserve.
This temple was built by Prince Saddhathissa. (සද්ධාතිස්ස කුමාරයා) (Anuradhapura period)
New temple is situated at the base of rock and to reach the cave temple you have to climb about 500 stone steps.

It is a tradition to have a wash before climb up. Arrow shows the place.

Alone

Elamaldeniya cave temple. This cave is long as 52feet.

Reclined Buddha statue with a length of 27feet.

It shows the year of built

Water spring

Entrance

Climbing up to the peak

Through the rain forest patch

Pagoda through the forest

Footsteps we came

Getting down

Footsteps closer view

Gatabaruwa Temple and Dewalaya(ගැටබරු දේවාලය හා රජමහා විහාරය)
It is not a hidden cave temple. It is one of a popular place among devotees.

Direction
Matara->Akuressa->Kotapola.

From Kotapola, you have to climb the Gatabaruwa Mountain to reach the temple and dewalaya. The distance is 2km and the surrounding view is breathtaking. (Similar to climb of Ambuluwawa) During poya days they don’t allow to drive along this road. Other days you can if you want.

Scenic road towards Gatabaru Kanda

Opposite mountain to Gatabaru Kanda

Surrounding view

Newly built image house

Ancient Gatabaru temple and Dewalaya of God Rajjurubandara.

Internal frame

Bulbs and bells

Faith

Another bell

Getting down

Stupa on the peak of Gatabaru Kanda

Thunbawila Cave temple (තුන්බැවිල රජමහා විහාරය)

This was built by King Wijayabahu I (මහා විජයබාහු රජතුමා) during Pollonnaruwa period. Few decades ago it was attacked by treasure hunters and old stupa was destroyed. Current value is the cave temple only.
Treasure hunters have thrown one important copper plate to a paddy field of Panakaduwa on their way. This was found as the oldest copper plate document of Sri Lanka.-“Panakaduwa Thamba Sannasa” -පනාකඩුව තඹ සන්නස

Panakaduwa Thamba Sannasa

The Panakaduwa Thamba Sannasa was found in the Panakaduwa village at Morawakkorale by a farmer named Suravirage Carolis Appuhamy in 1948. After it lay neglected in various places, for about a year it was brought to the officials of the department of Archaeology by Ven. Pandith Vanarathana Thera. Due to the efforts of Mr. Sarath Vattala the value of the document was revealed to the general public of the country. Finally Carolis Appuhamy was rewarded by Prime Minister D. S. Senanayake himself at Kamburupitiya in 1950.

The Sannasa was of three copper plates and was about 2.5 lbs in weight. It was made like an Ola book with two holes on the side of each copper plate.

The purpose of this document is to record the privileges granted by King Wijayabahu I to a high ranking military officer of Ruhuna named Budal Samy or Buddaraja of Ruhuna, who brought him up in his childhood and helped restore Sinhala sovereignty to the King after the Island was subjected to the Cholas for over a half century. The document records the very words of the King in which he makes reference to his early days of adversity and privations, briefly by expressive phrases of great human interest, very touching to the emotions.

According to the Thamba Sannasa, this is the first time in which we hear of a king of Ceylon speaking about himself in this manner in the first person, in a document issued under his own authority in his own life time. The document would therefore be of great importance, even if the king who so speaks was one above the ordinary. King Wijayabahu I had empowered Budal Samy’s sons and grandsons and the generations coming down from him with tremendous powers and sanctions due to his patriotic and faithful acts towards the country and the nation. The Thamba Sannasa inscripts that no punishments be given including even the death penalty for three times. Also the estates or whatever property they posses cannot be confiscated. Therefore it’s our prime duty to respect this great family and their descendants according to the writ granted by the Great King Wijayabahu I.

Direction
Matara->Akuressa->Kotapola->Kireelipana->Thunbawila

Thunbawila cave temple

Renovated after attacked by treasurer hunters

Paintings of the roof belong to Kandyan era

View of Gatabaru Kanda on our way to temple

Budugala cave temple-Rotumba (බුදුගල-රොටුඹ රජමහා විහාරය)

Directions
Matara-> Pasgoda->Rotumba.

You can heir a three wheeler from Pasgoda town .Importance of this temple is the cave (Twin caves) and a Brahami inscription letter belongs to early stage of Anuradhapura. Fortunately it is still preserved without any shelter. Old temple has been renovated at 1904.

Cave temple I

Written document

Reclined Buddha statue of cave temple I

Out of the main shrine house

How they got light into the cave II

Reclined Buddha statue of cave II

Behind the main cave there is another cave with ruins

Water spring

Brahami inscription

Old toilet

Meemanagalkanda cave temple (මීමනගල්කන්ද ගල් ලෙන් විහාරය)

Directions
Matara-> Mulatiyana->Neralampitiya junction->Meemanagalkanda temple.

If you are using the public transport, have to take a three wheeler from Neralampitiya (නෙරලම්පිටිය) junction. (About 6km from here)
It carries some evidences of Kandyan era. But later it was renovated and most of ancient signs have been destroyed.

Climbing up to the cave temple

New construction done around 70th decade.

Ceiling

Historical value still remain – Click Image to Enlarge

Mulgirigala Zoomed

Umangala/Amangala Owagiri RMW (උමoගල/ අමoගල ඕවාගිරි රජමහා විහාරය)

Direction
Matara->Hakmana->Umangala temple in Beliatta road

From the new temple you have to climb 424 stone steps to reach three caves, out of two are shrine houses for Lord Buddha and other one is a Dewalaya for God RajjuruBandara. (රජ්ජුරු බන්ඩාර දෙවියෝ)
This belongs to A.C 02-05 periods and consider as a creation of King Detuthis. (දෙටුතිස් රජතුමා)

Cave temple I

Buddha statue of cave I

Paintings of cave I-Kandyan era

Paintings of cave I

Cave II

Buddha statue of cave II

Cave III –Dewalaya

Cave III-There is a tunnel from here to Mulgirigala. Entrance is at this cobra hood painted door. It is believed a giant Cobra lives there.

Towards the peak

Stupa and pond on the summit of the rock

View from Umangala rock……Southern sea also can be seen

Bell tower

Ancient Bo tree

He guided us in the temple. Would become a sermon in near future.

Giant Atamba tree of Gatamanna (ගැටමාන්නේ යෝධ ඇටඹ ගස)
There is a giant Atamba tree at Gatamanna-Beliatta. It is situated in the Eldeniya(ඇල්දෙණිය) village. It has a circumference of 22feet and height is about 80feet. Earlier people have worshiped this tree and now it is declared as a historical object by the government.

Directions
Matara->Kirinda->Gatamanna in Beliatta road-> Eldeniya

Giant Atamba tree

How big it is compared to me

Thanks for reading.

I was used to travel from Colombo to Pollonnaruwa by morning train (Udaya dewi/උදය දේවී) in one part of my life and accidently noticed an isolated mountain just passed Konwewa (කෝන් වැව) station. I could notice this mountain till I pass Moragollagama (මොරගොල්ලාගම) station. As it was large and situated on a surrounding flat ground, aroused my curiosity and found to have it as the longest isolated mountain of Sri Lanka-Galgiriya mountain.

Galgiriya Mountain. The image I have taken on my way by train.

Galgiriya kanda. It can be reached from A-28road (Padeniya-Anuradhapura). Colombo-Batticalo railway track goes on the right side of the mountain (Not seen here).Therefore I have seen other side of the mountain first and climbed the mountain in its left side. Black line shows my approach to mountain through Kaduruwewa. I climbed to the Bambarakanda (බඹර කන්ද)-Northern peak of the mountain. Black star shows the Katakapu Gala (කටකැපූ ගල)-2nd highest peak and Red star shows Mahakanda (මහකන්ද)-highest peak of the mountain.

Importance of the Galgiriya Mountain

1. Geographical value-It is situated in Kurunegala District. It is 478m (1,568ft) high and 7th highest mountain in North Western province and the 212th highest mountain in Sri Lanka. But it is the longest isolated mountain in Sri Lanka-7km long.
2.  Historical value- It history goes back to Anuradhapura era. Prince Saliya (සාලිය), the son of King Dutugamunu has fallen love with a Chandala girl called Ashokamala (අශෝකමාලා). Saliya gave up his crown due to this affair and fled with Ashokamala from Anuradhapura. Later they came to this mountain and inhabited here. One place in this mountain called Saliya hermitage and Saliyagama (සාලියගම) is also situated close to this mountain.
3. Botanical value-As it has a good variety of flora and fauna, this mountain has been declared as a forest reserve.
4. Archeological value-A lot of archeological sites is situated on the mountain and close to the mountain, named as Weragala Rajamaha Wiharaya, Darmarajagala hermitage etc.

We came from Colombo around 5.20am but reached Kaduruwewa around 11.20am. (Delayed due to various reasons) Then we drove towards Darmarajagala Hermitage to find someone to go with us. But the road condition was bad and we stopped the car in front of Kaduruwewa. Meanwhile we met a kind hearted villager called Jayathilaka Ayya. He accompanied us to his place and arranged someone to go with us.
As the time was around 12noon we decided to go to Bambarakanda. Bambarakanda is the northern point of this long mountain.
We approached it through the paddy fields then bushes and last we have to cross the lake called Diwulgane Lake (දිවුල්ගනේ වැව) which has no much water during dry season.

Bambara kanda-Nothern part of the range.

Black arrow-Katakapu Gala and Red arrow-Mahakanda and yellow arrow-Kaduruwewa lake.

Katakapu gala zoomed

Wuminda is heading with the guide through paddy fields

Part of Galgiriya kanda

Kaduruwewa Lake-This part doesn’t have water

Diwulgane Lake-No water during these days. People use it to feed cows

Once we cross the Diwulgane Lake, we started to climb the mountain. Climbing is not a big thing at all.

Wild elephants are common here. The trunk of the tree was scraped by wild elephants

Mark on the ground-Deer or wild boar has been there

One of a common tree for this area

That’s why they call it as a Galgiriya mountain-

Madu tree (මඩු ගස් ) is also common for this forest reserve. Our guide said they eat Madu fruits.

Creation of the nature

After came to some extent. It is a nice “Sulang Kapolla” සුලo කපොල්ල here.

Yapahuwa (යාපහුව) in Red arrow, (Diyabettekanda) දියබෙත්තේ කන්ද in black arrow

Kaduruwewa Lake and paddy fields- Zoomed

Bambara kanda-our destination

Can’t identify this mountain

Southern part of the range and Kaduruwewa Lake

Naturally made steps for climb

Our guide

Vandalism there

We climbed further up to reach the highest point of Bambarakanda. But the surrounding view was not good as we think .Because it was obstructed by trees.

Kekirawa (කැකිරාව) side-May be Mana kanda (මානාකන්ද කන්ද) and Ritigala (රිටිගල) behind that

Anuradhapura side

View of the other part of the mountain from Bambarakanda. Note surrounding trees obstruct the view.

Having a little rest there we started to get down. Then we needed to reach the hermitage called “Darmarajagala Senasanaya” (ධර්මරාජගල සේනාසනය) which is situated close to the base of Bambarakanda.

Getting down

Showing collection ant’s droppings used in Ayurvedic medicine.

Darmarajagala Hermitage (ධර්මරාජගල සේනාසනය)
According to the chief monk of this hermitage, it belongs to the Anuradhapura era and caves with drip ledges and some ruin can be seen there.

Nice name board

This is called wee atu galllena වී අටු ගල් ලෙන. Oldest cave. Currently nobody there.

Brahami inscriptions seen near to that cave.

Caves

Siri Pathul Gala සිරි පතුල් ගල

Scattered ruin

Used for meditation

The cave with longest cave inscription of Sri Lanka

Longest cave inscription (ලෙන් ලිපිය) of Sri Lanka

This is built on top of old Stupa

Old caves were converted to new ones. Nice place for meditation.

Leaving the hermitage

This is called “Pathaha” (පතහ) -lowland filled with water during rainy season. It acts as a seasonal lake.

Wood apple-Another common member of this society

Elephant Dung….

There is a nice flat stony ground next to mountain…..They are constructing a new Bodhigaraya බෝධිඝරය on top of that.

Black arrow shows the Sulang Kapolla we went. Red arrow shows the highest point we reached.

(පැල) Most of the time villagers have to spend their night at these huts to protect the paddy fields from Wild elephants and wild boars.

Returned back to the village

Lush green

Need another day to visit there

Jayathilaka Ayya has arranged a tasty lunch for us. Thanks for their hospitality.
After saying good bye to Jayathilaka family, we came to nearby ancient temple called Weragala RMV.

Weragala RMV. (වේරගල රජමහා විහාරය)

Don’t know the exact person build this temple

Nice place to have a temple. This is the image house.

Paintings of Kandy era

Last part of the Galgiriya is seen behind the temple

Old “Asanagara” (ආසනඝරය) is used for new construction

Ruins of old Stupa

The pond

Sacred foot print stones සිරි පතුල් ගල

Belongs to British colonial period-Year is 1884

Scattered ruins

Work of Treasure hunters

We came back by the same route and on our way noticed a board towards Nillaggama (නිල්ලග්ගම) Bodhigaraya. You may come across two boards showing this on your way to Galgamuwa. One says the distance is 5km and other says 2km. We followed 2km road but actual distance was about 3-4km.Road condition was fairly o.k.

Nillaggama Bodhigaraya (නිල්ලග්ගම බෝධිඝරය)
This is considered as a great creature of Sinhala architecture. Bodhigaraya is a house made around the Bo tree.

.

Actual distance is about 3-4kms.

Outer wall-exquisitely by granite

The place where Bo tree was planted. Note they have placed granite for the floor as well.

Carved lions

Western entrance

Eastern entrance

Thanks for reading.

the map – Click to enlarge

There are some places one must visit and Nilgala is one of those places. Finally after 1 ½ years been to Monaragala that day seemed to be closing in. I was determined to visit Nilgala during the Esela weekend and only needed few guys to accompany me but at last I had a huge crew. First of all my office staff was ever so willing to venture on and later to be joined by few of my Lakdasun friends. Though I was disappointed with the wild life department because of all the messed up bookings, I was not going to give up this time and decided to camp the first day at the park entrance.

First of all I would like to bring forward what happened to us with the bookings of the camp sites. We initially booked Mahadoruwa camp site for two days from the Inginiyagala office over the phone. But we were told from Nilgala range office that they handle the bookings and also bookings can be done from the head office at Battaramulla. When Kasun inquired from the head office he was told that they do not handle any bookings so we decided to go ahead with the Inginiyagala office bookings. When I went to do the payment at Inginiyagala the park warden said that the camp site was booked from Colombo by another party and I was very disappointed with these guys who ruined all my plans. At that particular day they had even given bookings to 3 parties for boat rides and was wondering what to do when the parties arrived , I was also surprised to hear that the boats were functioning because few days back when I called them they said the boats were under repair and will be available only in August. I am really disappointed of the management of this park but I didn’t let these miss-happenings spoil my adventure.

We somehow packed all our stuff (specially the cooking stuff) and arrived at Bibila on a Saturday afternoon to meet up with my Lakdasun friends and set off towards Bulupitiya on the bumpy road. From Bulupitiya it was a dusty ride towards Nilgala and we were covered with dust while traversing through the Aralu, Bulu & Nelli forest. After about 12Km’s we reached the Nilgala range office where we halted and met Chandima who was introduced as our tracker for the rest of the tour. Since it was around 3pm we decided to visit Kahatatta hela which is close to the Nilgala ranger office.

To Get to Kahatatta hela we went back about 1Km and started trekking through the Nilgala forest. Within no time we reached the cave complex at the base of the rock. At this cave one can identify remnants of wall and also two rock inscriptions. After wondering around we started climbing uphill which required few pit stops. Though we got to the top in 10 minutes we had to walk a good 30mins to reach the highest point. On the way we did come across a recently demised Pangolin and it seemed to be attacked by hawks. The summit is a dream place where one could enjoy a panoramic view of Nilgala region. Some of us just fell down on the rock imagining it as our beds from top of it one could appreciate a panoramic view towards Danigala, Andagala, Rathugala, Galgamuwa, Madulsima, Bulupitiya hela, Nilgala, Ul hela, Berawa hela, Makare, Wadinagala, Mullegama range, Iginiyagala reservoir and the paddy fields close to the ranger office. After enjoying some stunning scenery we set foot towards the ruins site. And it took about 20 minutes for us to get there.

The ruins site was on another end of the rock and there were remnants of about 6 buildings resembling its prosperity from the past. From here we had to rush back before we came across any wild jumbos since it was close to 5pm. After getting to the cab we felt dehydrated but some juicy Water melons did the trick.

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Scattered all around were the remains of ancient structures. Legend has it that this was also one of the many places where King Dutugemunu had camped and gathered his forces as he marched on King Elara. It is also said that King Valagamba had taken refuge here.

Our next stop was Seenukgala which was very close to the Nilgala entrance but out of the park boundary, this place is a suitable place to camp if you couldn’t book any camp sites within the park. We found a nice cool calm swimming pool in Gal oya and had a swim for about an hour before getting back to the ranger office. That night we were offered camping facilities at the Nilgala office though we also had the option of camping at Seenukgala. Few of us decided to spend the night in a tree house done by the wild life officers while others camped on ground zero. At 8pm the vehicle was sent to pick up Amila from Bulupitiya and while he arrived we did have some superb dinner consisting of deviled Mannyokka . The night was along one with all of those shouting going around the paddy fields plus the turbulent winds.

the unique park road

packing up

a small climb

the cave

Kahata aththa hela rock cave

checking out an Atamba tree

remains

inscription

we did not disturb them

glimpse of the reservoir

ulhela resembling lakegala

on the way scenery

berawa hela, ul hela and wadinagala

plenty of ele dung

Gal oya national park

Nilgala and bulupitiya hela

towards Madulsima

the paddy fields at the buffer zone

illegal activity

where the reservoir meets

towards rathugala

Andagala and danigala range

Panorama from the top of Kahata aththa hela rock

almost full team

rock of meditation

mana was a challenge

ruins at Kahata aththa hela rock

more	pieces of history

another building

beauty

wonder if this is kahata?

Aralu,bulu,nelli

yummy

Seenukgala swimming pool

peaceful gal oya

came out well

Nilgala ranger office

full moon

deviled manyokka on the fire

Our cooks

Next day morning produced some stunning scenery towards the paddy fields which were done by the locals of Bulupitiya. After having some rice as breakfast we decided to cross the paddy fields and reach the beautiful anicut which supplies water to these fields. On the way scenery was superb the blue and green was simply perfectly merging together. After a 20 minute walk we reached the anicut of Gal oya which was an isolated yet beautiful location which a traveler must visit.

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The Galoya National Park is situated on the border of the Eastern Province. It was way back in 1954 that this large tract of jungle covering a total of 25,900 hectares was declared a national park. In fact it constitutes the upper watersheds of the Senanayake Samudra, the key irrigation facility of the Galoya Project. It has also become a refuge for all the wildlife displaced by the settlement scheme.

At one end of the park is Nilgala. The rolling savannah is surrounded by a ring of hills, the more famous among them being Danigala. Yakunge Hela, Nilgala, Bulu Hela, Endagala, Kahatatta Hela, Guru Hela and Akuna Hela are the other peaks in this range.

The diversity ranges from tiny lizards to elephants. But unlike other such reserves, Nilgala has to be approached on foot. As wondrous as the sudden sighting of an elephant is as one weaves one’s path around the Aralu, Bulu Nelli and through the tall mana grass, a certain degree of caution has to be exercised for the dangers are many. Any excursion, then, has adventure written into the unfolding script.

Within the protected area there lies a large tract of paddy land. Legend has it that the ancestors of the present day farming families had arrived in the area fleeing from the marauding British troops that ran riot to quell the Wellasssa Rebellion. Needless to say, these lands have always been threatened by elephant attacks, especially in the context of dwindling feeding grounds for the threatened creature.

good morning Nilgala

view from the hut

where we slept

plenty of true tree huts

paddy at the buffer zone

HDR

breakfast is ready!

wow

Nilgala and bulupitiya hela over the paddy fields

Phone signal booth

the hut

the guard!

pus wela

wonders of mother nature

along the water way

the anicut

beautiful

lazy guys

gal oya

Baobab kumbuk tree

the beauty of the blue sky

an Ibis

the beauty of green

trying out a gal dunna

lovely

yum yum

After returning back we packed up and entered the park and on the way through the beautiful landscape of Aralu, Bulu, Nelli and mana we reached a spot where the Mukkuru tomb (sohana) could be found. We really were puzzled about its origin and even our trekker didn’t know why it was called Mukkuru sohana. Not so far away from it and very close to Madugasthalawa (where plenty of Madu trees could be seen) we came across few boulders which were said to be remains of ancient Kalugalbemma road which King Dutugemunu used to travel towards Polonnaruwa side.

Our camp site Paraviyan ara was very close to the jeep track and there was a sand platform plus a toilet with a nonfunctioning tap line and it seemed to be a camp site which not many prefers to stay. Our tracker suggested that we could camp at the river bed which was the perfect place to camp in the end. Simply the river bed was a magical place and the only obstacle was carrying stuff towards it. On one side we were bordered by the deep river and no animal could reach us from there, we only had to worry about the opposite side. Within no time our specialist cooks started cooking and the knives and the coconut scrapers were working like machines while the eggs were boiling on the fire. After having a cool dip for many hours a perfect lunch (noodles) satisfied our hunger.

the path through the forest

Mukkuru sohana

what a landscape

lovely

ancient Kalugal bemma road which King dutugemunu used.

summery of Nilgala

madugasthalawa

finding our own camp site

the cooks were busy

our camp site

our bathing spot

thanks kasun for this capture

oluwen hitagena

splashing

what a time we had

At around 2.30pm we started to walk towards Makare which was already been crowded due to the long weekend. First we reached “Stage Wella” where day camping is allowed it was just like Mount lavinia beach and the difference was the people who were all local villagers around Bibila. We did walk about the Rocky River to enjoy some stunning rock formations. It’s like walking along a 3D painting and one should not miss this place. Next it was a 200m walk towards the reservoir through the forest and on the way we did note the “Gilma” where the mighty river disappears under the rocks to re immerge at Makara kata (makare) out of nowhere. It is fascinating to note the river seems to be blocked at this exit point with these huge boulders. Once we emerged at Makare it was all sand but no rocks and once a year this layer of sand keeps renewing itself and one could appreciate the in between humus levels too. We decided to venture in to the Makara kata and that was a fascinating experience. The saddest part was seen the drunken locals misbehaving worse than any wild animal on earth and I think the poor rangers are facing difficulties in handling them because most of them been locals. Strict laws on Alcohol use should be a must at Gal oya and hope the authorities will take necessary steps.

Next we decided to venture further on to see the ruins of Andayampola fortress which was a 30 minute walk through boulders and the muddy reservoir. It seemed to be a wall like structure done by rocks placed on top of each other and there were no ruins of buildings to see around. On our way we heard a bears cry but was not lucky to see one jumbo even thanks to those drunken guys who were screaming around. We reached the camp site at dusk and set up a good camp fire before the cooking session begun. While the popcorn was popping few of us had a dip in the river enjoying the rays of the full moon. That night we slept without any interruptions thanks to the comfortable sand bed.

walking towards stage wella (makara day camping site)

Stage wella

rock formation

natural pools

3 layers

Gilma where the river disappears

close up

suddenly its sand

it meets the mightiest reservoir

Makare

where the water appears from

framed

where it ends

Mullegama range

colourful

drackula island and mount inginiyagala

foot prints of a bear

water levels starting to drop

the tank

towards andayampola

the wall

Andayampola fortress

best place on earth

trying to role a dry tree

our camp fire

yep we had pop corn

full moon was bit shy

finally appeared

What a comfortable bed

Next day morning the rays of the sun were creeping through the braches producing beautiful photographic opportunities. After having some rice with papadam and stuff we had another morning session in the river before deciding to leave this luxuries paradise. I must thank my staff for the superb food they cooked which made this camping trip to Nilgala much more special than it looked. Saying good bye to King Budhdhadasa’s herbal paradise we headed towards Monaragala on a Ceylon takaran bus which seemed to be reserved only for us and a “komadu dansala” plus the “sawu dansala” which the bus stopped at confirmed it.

our tents

camp site

peaceful gal oya

wow

dawn at gal oya

our well

gal oya beach resort

brekfast again

time to leave

left it as it was

plenty of these guys

Good bye gal oya

Thanks for reading guys!

map 1 – Click to enlarge

map 2 – Click to enlarge

I had to go to Matara to meet some of my foreign friends and next day I was supposed to return back to Monaragala. I didn’t want to waste my visit by not visiting few places so I picked up few random locations which I could drop in without much of a difficulty while getting back.

First I went to Mulatiyana and headed towards Mawarala and few Kilometers away from Mulatiyana Kos gaha dola falls could be found on the right hand side of the road. It does originate from a natural spring and later flows to the river in Mulatiyana reserve. There is a nice observation platform for viewing purpose and almost all villagers know about this. From Mulatiyana I headed towards Kirama and from Kirama hired a trishaw which took me towards Warapitiya Lake and on the way we came across a junction where there was a black board which stimulated me. We took the left road from that junction (as I remember this was Warapitiya) and reached Siththam gal lena RMV.

through Mulatiyana reserve

Kosgaha dola falls

On that particular day there was a Sunday school prize giving ceremony going on and I couldn’t meet the head priest to get proper permission. Anyway I started climbing uphill and reached the main rock cave where some beautiful paintings could be found but only to enjoy them through a meshed window because the entrance door was locked. From this cave I further climbed up and came towards the restored Pagoda where one can enjoy a fantastic view towards Kirama. After climbing few more steps I reached the last maluwa where the devalaya’s could be found. I strongly recommend visiting this scenic ancient temple to other visitors also and I myself might go there again someday too. After getting down I headed back towards the junction where we deviated and took the right turn to reach Rammale Kadura/ Sapugahadora Biso falls. This waterfall been the highest of Hambanthota district is a beautiful cascade and it’s very easy to reach too. They were building a bridge across the stream where one could enjoy the beauty of it easily.

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Sapugahadora Biso ella/Rammale kadura

The sources of this 12m-high fall are the brooks flowing down the Rammale mountain range. It flows on to the Warapitiya Reservoir and then the Kirma River. During the dry season the flow is languid but when the rains come, it cascades magnificently. Tea plantations and other crops in Rammale and Wadula have taken a heavy toll on the environment, putting the fall’s existence in jeopardy.

The fall is situated near the Sitamgalla Temple, Hambantota District. From Katuwanna PC, near the Warapitiya Tank, take the Warapitiya – Uruboka road for 3km. It is 20m from the first culvert to the fall. Alternatively, take the road from ktuwana town via Rukmalpitiya Dangalkande towards Hulankande. The fall can be found between Hulankande and Kirama. 

Warapitiya tank

at Siththam gal lena RMV

another cave

note the ancient paintings

Siththam gal lena

steps carved in

restored sthupa

view towards kirama

warapitiya tank as seen from the pagoda

the devalayas

sculptures

the concrete leading towards Rammale falls

side view of the Biso ella

like a shower

close up

Rammale biso falls(Sapugahadora falls)

the top

the base pool

From Warapitiya I got back to Kirama and headed towards Ambalantota. After getting to Ambalatota I wanted to go in search of a waterfall called Abarana falls which is the 2^nd documented waterfall of the district. Fortunately one trishaw guy knew about this and he took me towards Ridiyagama. At Ridiyagama there is a road called Abarana ella and if one follows it the cascade could be reached. This miniature waterfall is formed by Walawe River and when I visited it the waterfall was covered 50% because of the high water levels. The importance of this miniature falls is because of its history rather than been a waterfall.

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Abarana falls

According to folklore, the 2m fall derives its name from the fascinating but sad story of King Wijebahu. The king was married to beautiful twin sisters, both seven months’ pregnant. Before leaving for a sea battle, he announced to his queens that should he be successful, white flags would be hoisted from his ship’s mast upon his return, but should he be defeated, black flags would be flown instead. He also warned them that he would not live to see defeat.

After many days keeping vigil from the nearby Usangoda Mountain (800ft), the queens spied the king’s ship on the horizon. Although the king was victorious, he took up his general’s suggestion to fly the black flags as a practical joke, curious to see the reactions of his wives. The queens saw the black flags and assumed the worst. Overwhelmed by grief and sorrow, they committed suicide by throwing themselves into the river, after first gathering all their jewellery and laying it on the bank. Upon realising the fate of his queens and unborn children, the king was overcome by grief and plunged after them into the water. The fall is now said to be haunted by the Dark Prince – the king’s reincarnation – and it was the jewellery left on the riverbank by the distraught queens (apparitions of which have been reported) that gave the fall its name.

Also found growing near the fall is the plant locally known as dalumura, used by local villagers in devil exorcism rituals. Beware! Crocodiles (Crocodylus palustris) are often seen basking in the sun, half submerged by the pool formed by the fall. The fall’s source is the lower tributary of the Walawe River. It is situated near the town of Ambalantota and the village of Pallerota (in the Ambalantota Ridiyagama area), and the last 2km of the journey must be made on foot. To reach the bullock cart track that serves as the footpath, from the Ambalantota Nonagama junction head to the 77th mile post and cross an irrigation canal, passing a bathing spot/boat yard and a tobacco plantation. A convenient place to stay is the Hambantota rest-house, 26km away.

Since it was getting late I rushed back to Ambalantota to catch a Monaragala bus to end a tiring day where most of the time was spent on dusty roads.

turbulant walawe

Abarana falls(its 2m in height but due to the increased water level it is not clearly visible)

Day two was another random day which I decided to visit few more places which I couldn’t complete on day 1. So as usual early morning I headed towards Embilipitya where I got a bus via Padalangala towards Suriyawewa. I got off at Unuwatura lin junction and hired a trishaw for the 3Km stretch towards the famous Mahapelessa hot springs. As I remember travelers who previously visited this place many years ago had mentioned that this was a jungle but now the surrounding area is just like a botanical garden. They even have caged rabbits and ducks etc.. I even noted an aquarium under construction. This is now a place of income rather than an attraction to the provincial government.

entering the hot springs

well maintained

the wells

bubbling

plenty of caged ones

cute bunny’s

After playing around with hot water, I decide to visit two more hermitages which were located in the Madunagala sanctuary. Just passing the hot springs we took a right turn and proceeded about 6Km’s to reach the rock hermitage of Karabulena/Karadu lena within the sanctuary and a car with careful driving could be used to access this place during the dry months. The hermitage is a huge and functional one with plenty of drip ledged caves. It is said that “rahathan theros” once meditated at this hermitage. There were two interesting caves one been the “cool cave” and the other an “umbrella cave”, on top of the rock there is a beautiful Buddha statue and a renovated pagoda. One could enjoy an endless view towards Hambanthota region including the harbor. I also noted the nearby huge Ridiyagama tank.

Karabu lena (Karadu lena)

main cave at Karadulena hermitage

plaster

lighting

inside the cave

what a shape

another cave

more caves

altar

a moon stone

towards ridiyagama tank

Thissa side

few more tanks

Madunagala hermitage as seen from Karadulena

pano from the so called worlds end

just like athugala

serene

Hambanthota

cattle

umbrella shaped cave

Seetha lena

watch post

Next was Madunagala hermitage which was not so far away from Karadulena. Again we had to go through the forest to reach this place and better not to venture around in evenings because few elephants do roam around. After climbing few steps we reached the main Meda maluwa where few drip ledge caves could be found and there was a paved path through “Araliya trees” to reach the inscription and “palamu lena”. From palamu lena it was a small climb to the top where an unique designed pagoda which one could walk about inside it is found. Karadu lena hermitage was clearly seen from the rock top and also an endless view towards Hambanthota was appreciated. On the way back we did manage to visit few rock ponds which had water.

road through madunagala reserve

steps at madunagala hermitage

chula naga lena

another cave

been used during nights and rested in mornings

beauty on the thorns

contrast

path through the araliya trees

a huge kema at madunagala hermitage

an inscription

palamu lena

read – Click to enlarge

pagoda at madunagala hermitage

Karadu lena as seen from madunagala

life at a hermitage

naga lena

Abaya lena

palace on the tree

From Madunagala we reached Suriyawewa where I got in to a Embilipitiya bus to reach Chandrika lake where I spent some time enjoying the breath taking scenery towards Sooriyakanda. After having lunch from Embilipitiya I proceeded towards Katuwana where a road side Dutch fort could be found. This Dutch fort was reconstructed few years back and is a wonderful place to drop in whenever one could. It is said that the deep wide diameter well like tunnel was used by them to reach the southern shores of Sri Lanka without been noticed. For more information please go through the images. Not even 500m towards Middeniya there was an archeology board directing towards Nakadawela Purana viharaya where one could find an ancient image house which had been restored during different periods. The outer wall paintings are the older ones and the inner wall ones are from Kandyan era. After thanking the head priest I decided to return back to Embilipitiya and then towards Monaragala to end my mini quest around Hambanthota.

at Chandrika lake

sooriyakanda as seen from Chandrika lake

wow	a good place to camp

Katuwana dutch fort pano

Katuwana dutch fort

entrance

the tunnel they used

inside the fort

hal danda

rested

invaded by a giant

read 1 – Click to enlarge

read 2 – Click to enlarge

read 3 – Click to enlarge

read 4- Click to enlarge

read 5- Click to enlarge

read 6 – Click to enlarge

pagoda at image house at Nakadawala PV Katuwana

Nakadawela image house

old is gold

ancient drawings

and more

modified during kandy era

broken

inside the image house

more paintings

the well in a tunnel

The map – Click to enlarge

Last year when we hiked brandy rock I did note a nearby mountain range obscuring the view towards Matale and knuckles range. Since then I was eyeing on this peak (Wiltshire/Alu vihare Kanda), almost after and year I was all ready to venture on but as usual couldn’t find any companions. Amila who promised to join me also couldn’t make it because of a bike accident. I arrived at Matale on the previous day and stayed at Selina guest close to McDowell Fort. Next day early morning I wondered around the fort wall and entered the cemetery which lies in the fort premises. Close to this fort recently a mass burial site was found and the remains found were thought to be belonging to the rebels who fought against the British during the historical Matale rebellion which took place in 1848. Except for the outer wall there is not much to see these days. There were few monuments around Matale which were linked to the historical rebellion but I deferred exploring those and stuck to my main objective.

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Matale rebellion

In 18’s people of Sri Lanka were struggling very hard to get rid of the iron clutches of British administration. British have introduced many laws and taxes such as Barren land law that virtually took everything from the indigenous people. The Sinhalese and people of other ethnic groups got united and fought against the British army. Uwa Wellassa Karelle and Matale Karella are two noteworthy rebellion of Sri Lankan against British, which helped the country to reach independence in 1948. Matale Rebellion, which took place in 1848, had distracted even the king of British.

Uwa rebellion was widely spread throughout the island from the Dambulla temple. It was ceremonially initiated by Ven.Girattegama Indrajothi thera on 26^th July 1848 with Rajabhisheka (coronation) of Gongalegoda banda as the king of the Kandyan kingdom. Another key figure of the rebellion was Virapuranappu arrived to Dambulla from Moratuwa and was appointed as the leader of the Sinhalese army.  At the beginning the Sinhalese army was consisting of 3000 soldiers. As the war broke out Matale, Kurunegala, Borella were under fire and British governor imposed the martial law covering the whole island. Sinhalese forces were joined by soldiers from other regions such as Kurunegala.

2^nd, 3^rd, 4th and 5^th of August 1848, there was a fierce battle between Sinhalese forces and British army in Matale. Three British regiments were on the battle under the leadership of Captain McDowell, Captain Lili and Captain Watson. With the sophisticated war equipments the British forces were able to dominate the battle and Sinhalese forces had to retreat. Sinhalese forces encamped in several places around Matale. Vira Puran Appu and large number of Sinhalese soldiers encamped in Wariyapola. Captain M.J.Mcdowell built a fort adjoining the governor’s office of Matale. Even today the ruin of the fort can be seen at the site and it is known as fort McDowell. After following a tip about the hiding place of Vira Puran Appu and his followers were taken into custody by the British forces. They were killed by shooting at the Bogambara on August 8^th 1848.several Sinhalese soldiers, who were under Vira Puran Appu were shot dead near the Fort McDowell. Several, other Sinhalese leaders were hanged near the fort of Mcdowell. Gongale Goda Bnada was sent in exile to s foreign country. 376 people, who played an important role in the rebellion was imprisoned on the charges of disobeying the British queen. Kudapola thera was also among the British prisoners.

There are several monuments remembering the Matale rebellion, monument of Captain Lili is located in Wariyapola on the A-9 main road. There are several other monuments in Matale and around remembering British. But, there are very few monuments to remember the brave soldiers of Sinhalese army, other than statues of Gongale God Band and Vira Puran Appu, there are no monuments to remember the Sinhalese forces. The fort of McDowell is a leading monument of the rebellion that still resides in Matale. There are nine gravestones in the garden of the fort believed to be places, where the several Sinhalese were buried. But there are no written evidences to prove the identity of the people, who were buried in the fort.

Very difficult to spot this board

remains of the fort

Witshire peak covered with mist as seen from matale town

After having some breakfast I took off in search of the Madiwela bus and since no one was sure about its arrival on that day I took an Etipola bus and got off at the Madiwela turn off and walked about 4Km’s to reach Asgiriya division where Brandy rock, Etipola range and Wiltshire could be seen clearly. The mountain tops were kissed by the mist and the breeze on the top was notable even from ground zero. I further walked towards the Kovil at Asgiriya division and reached the line houses. No one agreed to show me the way saying the path was covered with bushes but they also mentioned that if I could get to the “Gala” I could see Matale town clearly.

Brandy rock covered with mist

Etipola

Ambokka covered with mist

lovely

landscape

the twin peaks of wiltshire kissed by mist

Wiltshire range as seen from Brandy rock

starting point

So I was alone and I had no companion despite all of my attempts. It was all about trekking to the observation point and the clear view of the rock I wanted to reach was the only aid I had. First it was a continuous climb through the tea estate until I reached the forest boundary and after climbing further up I reached the neck of Wiltshire range. From here I proceeded towards the direction of the summit and within no time I was greeted by Mana bushes. There was a foot path through the mana which I choose to follow until the bush cover started to get dense. The view from this mana plain was simply amazing the contrast of the images were taken at that moment was so perfect that I couldn’t stop clicking around.

tea	Etipola and brandy rock

entering the forest patch

Grey headed Canary Flycatcher

path getting tougher

view was getting better

beautiful landscape

love these flowers

two species

wow

the peaks

the path

path was missing from here onwards

Nightmare struck me within no time. It was BAMBOO standing as a wall in front of me. After seen these bushes my heart came in to my mouth and I was wondering if to go around them but if I did so I would have had to climb up through bamboo bushes which was not a good idea. I was determined through crash through the bamboo and stick to the theoretical path along the neck of the range. So it begun I was crawling along animal pathways which ran through the bamboo bushes but with the bag I was pulled back at most instances. Sometimes to proceed one meter I had to waste more than two minutes. The Bamboos were acting as springs by pushing me back and trying to exhaust me and deny my right of viewing Matale from top of Wiltshire.

After all that trouble I again found the lost part just before the summit of the 2^nd peak which the locals call as the “balum gala”. The rock summit is also covered with bushes and it’s very hard to find a proper place to rest even. But the view from it was what I was searching for. Matale town was so huge that it seemed like whole of Matale has lost its forest cover the busy streets and the bus stand could be seen clearly from this point. After clicking few panoramas it was time locate some landmarks. I could identify Kandalama, Bowatenna, Arangala, western view of Knuckles mountains and even Lakegala could be seen peeping through a gap. Karagahatenna, Reverston and other peaks were almost touching the clouds. On other side Hanthana and Kandy region could be noted while mountains like Alagalla and Bathalegala also could be viewed. On the opposite side Etipola mountain was obscuring the view towards Kurunegala but Yakdessagala and Dolukanda was seen without any problem at all! The peak with a mana plain was about 100 meters away but I decided not to risk things by pushing myself to the extreme.. If it wasn’t for the Bamboo bushes I would have gone there but things were not in my favour on that particular day.

Bamboo my worst nightmare

a break

Knuckles range

paddy

mawanella

knuckles seen behind rathtota

Naula and kandalama

other side of the range was all pines

matale heavily populated

part of the huge town of matale

widened streets

the bus stand

pano towards Etipola and mawanella

pano towards matale and Knuckles range

wiltshire range

colourful

bathalegala seen far away

alagalla

looking back

over the hedge

beautiful Matale

Kandy side

knuckles peaks

Karagahatenna

yakdessagala seen faintly

dolukanda and kibulwana reservoir

where i started

standing out

through the bushes

getting down

Getting down was much harder than climbing up and losing the way was included in that special package. So I had to make a new path while descending through the tormenting Bamboo bushes and finally found the path I climbed up. Felt really relieved at that moment when I found the path! After getting back to the tea estate I found a natural stream where I decided to have a wash and a change. There were about 20 leeches who I never bothered to remove until that moment. To make things worse it was continuously bleeding. After refreshing myself I felt like I returned to heaven after visiting hell but yet contented with what I achieved for the day. After getting to the road I found no trishaw driver willing to go on a hire even. So in the not sun I walked 4Km’s until Etipola road was met. I was tired and couldn’t walk anymore, so got in to a trishaw which was going towards Matale for a discounted price, which made my mood. After reaching Matale I looked back towards the daunting mountain at the backdrop of the city and gave it a smile before proceeding towards my night halting place to end one of the most tiring journeys for the year.

wish I had a sword to cut through these

the breeze

on the way down scenery

Dolukanda

Yakdessagala

Amazing

the balum gala

finally found the path

diversity

another lake

i was there

entering the forest

good bye

road side shots

plucked

Ambokka cleared off

valley

Thanks for reading!

The map – Click to enlarge

Endagala is a unique place which I came across for the first time while going through a book called “Stone in Eloquence” and since then it was roaming around my dreams. One day while traveling to Padiyathalawa I noted a board saying Endagala put up by Uva tourist board and that was enough to stimulate me to go in search of it. I have only seen few pictures of a pond but I was sure that there were much more to expect.

Sanjaya and I decided to give it a try on a holiday and we took off towards Ekiriyankumbura junction where the board could be seen. From here we hired a nice trishaw chap who volunteered to show us the way too. The road was in bad condition from the beginning and after about 2Km’s we reached a house where we halted the trishaw and set foot through the forest. Next we came across a chena where we took another thorny foot path towards the forest. Afterwards we met a wide road which had been abandoned and according to our guide people came in vans to see this place until recently while the road was in good condition. The foot path bought us towards an archaeology board put up in middle of a jungle. From here onwards it was a small uphill climb to the desired site. First thing that we came across was a huge rock bed. It was the largest I have ever seen, roughly the length was 10’, width was 4’ and height was around 1’. There was a step to get on to it and its rock pillow was shattered in to pieces by treasure hunters. This bed was well protected by a hooded cave and this might have been one of those royal Beds. It is said that this is part of queen Sugala’s kingdom but there is no solid evidence to prove the fact. The rock adjoining the Bed was what we were going to explore next.

was waiting for many months to visit this place

the road leading towards endagala

the rusted board

the pillow was vandalized by greedy thieves

can accommodate a giant even

the biggest royal bed in sri lanka according to my knowledge

Sometimes we see things we can’t believe and that’s what we saw, a rock pond on top of a globular rock. Let me try and explain you what I saw. It was a globular shaped rock and a slice was cut off perfectly as a potato had been sliced on its top so the surface would be a flat one. They have carved a 3’ deep pond which was square in shape and about three steps were there so one could get in to the perfectly carved pond. From outside to reach the pond rock steps were carved and at the beginning a moonstone also could be seen. The boarder of the pond had a 6” roughed area so no moss could form and seemed to give additional protection to the royal members from slipping and falling. The other unique finding was the water out let which they have drilled through the rock so the whole pool could be emptied when needed. This was simply a magnificent creation and we spent good 30 minutes talking about it before leaving the place.

Next we reached the second pond which was built on the floor and it had been vandalized by treasure hunters over the years. The pond which I saw on that book and what I saw on that day was completely different thanks to the idiots who destroyed it for some cheap bucks. We also came across a stool like sculpture which we couldn’t figure out properly. By now we were certain that this place was once occupied by a royal family.

wow steps leading to a heavenly pond

what creation, this is surely a royal creation

3 steps to enter the pond

the outlet canal

it even had a outlet for cleaning purposes

rough ridge to prevent slipping and falling

truly royal

the rock pond

a seat

quarry

beauty who didnt spread its wings

the beautiful 2nd pond

it was not spared

this is how it looked a decade ago

and now

the peella which helped us wash off

Next we returned back to the village and washed ourselves and decided to visit Dankumbura temple which was said to be the temple related to this mysterious kingdom. One could reach the temple from Ekiriyankumbura via a 4Wd road or by a short cut from Endagala. This temple was a peaceful place where one would feel like spending the day around there. In the temple premises few monoliths, scattered Korawak stones and guard stone could be seen but the main attraction is the caved image house which had been attacked frequently by treasure hunters. Inside the cave few ancient drawings could be identified and also a huge “paththaraya” could be seen. After thanking the priest we reached back towards Ekiriyankumbura and proceeded to Kanavagalla.

Dankumbura temple

modified

ruins at dankumbura

scattered

pillars

image house at dankumbura

moonstone

painted recently

the huge paththaraya

roof paintings

more paintings

ancient steps

There is a frame of an archaeology board on the side of the road directing towards the mountain range where Endagala ruins were found. Previously when I came to find about Kanavagalla maligathenna inscription a local guy said it is found on a rock bordering the lake on the mountain slope and it was submerged at that time. He also said there were plenty of ruins all over the mountain that one could explore for many hours. So we decided to give it a try this time around since we had time on our hands and also because we thought that it would have been linked to Endagala too. So after getting to the village we found the house of the person who I spoke to on the previous occasion and he was kind enough to offer some tea to us before deciding to venture on. We reached the school and halted the trishaw and started moving towards the mountain and within no time we reached the isolated lake on the slope of the mountain. This was a refurbished tank which was first built many centuries ago and the scattered rocks at the boarder of the tank verified it. This tank gets it water directly from the mountain and it had many trees in it giving it a magical look. Our guide was searching for the inscription for about 15 minutes but he couldn’t locate it, probably it might have been covered by thorny creepers or still submerged. We were very disappointed and I asked him if he could at least show us few monoliths so we could satisfy our selves and go back. He suggested that we needed to go uphill and we agreed with him on that. First we reached the ancient pond which had been reconstructed by locals who supplied there drinking water from it. And from here we climbed further up until and reached a place where steps could be seen directing upwards. On top of a mini cliff in the center of the jungle we found a huge rock slab a dug up hole and at the footsteps of the mini hill there was a part of a foot which might have been at the beginning of the stair way. Around this site we found many remains of buildings. And the significance of these was the size of the Rock slabs. Some were 3’ thick. We also came across unearthed buildings, fallen huge pillars and even moonstones. The size of these suggested that Kanavagalla Malighatenna could be an extended part of Endagala and might have been the royal complex while Endagala been the leisure activity center. According to the guide there were no pagodas around and that also tallied with our assumptions. Though there were many ruins to be explored we decided to get back to the village to end our quest. It seems this was a royal complex belonging to one of those southern rulers established on the slopes of mountain range and out of sight of northern rulers who were searching for them. The area needs to be explored and studied well to understand the significance of this forgotten kingdom around Ekiriyankumbura to fill up the gaps in our history. The best thing is after returning back to Monaragala our trishaw guy called and said that the whole of Ekiriyankumbura was searching for us thinking we were treasure hunters and the head priest of the temple even called me to inquire about our interest and I did explain our intentions and assured them that we were just explorers and at last everything settled well except the unsolved puzzle of Endagala.

going towards the lake at the base of the mountain

lake placid

perfect reflection

Kanavegalla lake

the ancient pond at Kanevagalla

ruins of the palace at maligatenna kanavegalla

ruins of buildings

ruins of the palace can be seen everywhere

huge flat rocks used as roofs

another roof part

moon stone

a long pillar

steps towards the palace

blent with nature

steps and steps

ruins on top of the mini hill

did they find anything…naaah

more to explore

monolith standing tall

a giant foot

joints

leave me alone

Thanks for reading

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The name Hanguranketha was derived from “Sangaruwan Ketha” (සගරුවන් කෙත) due to it’s thriving paddy fields in the ancient time. It was also called “Diyatilaka” (දිය තිලක).

Ancient kings especially during Kandyan period have used this as a second city/camp site when Kandy was attacked.
The king Senarath (සෙනරත් රජතුමා) has built the first palace in the Hanguranketha. According to Robert Knox’s records the city had been surrounded by a white washed protective wall. There was a giant wall encircling the palace. The entrance of the palace was constructed with beautiful carved doors and door panels.

The audience hall of Hanguranketha was built by King Rajasingha 2 (දෙවන රාජසිoහ රජතුමා). This audience hall was structurally similar to Kandy audience hall but functionally different. This hall was used by the king for resting and recreation activities.
This beautiful city was destructed by invaders from time to time. The king Seethawaka Rajasingha (සීතාවක රාජසිoහ) has also destroyed the city in searching of Konnappu Bandara (කොනප්පු බණ්ඩාර).

Today there are two ancient buildings can be seen in Hanguranketha.

1. Ancient Dewalaya
2. Pothgul Maliga Maha Wiharaya-built during British colonial period.

Above mentioned beautiful audience hall was located close to current Hanguranketha rest house. The paddy field known as Wadanapaya (වඩනාපාය) is situated at the site of ancient audience hall.

Pothgul Maliga Maha Wiharaya (පොත්ගුල් මාලිගා මහා විහාරය)

Ancient Hanguranketha palace was destroyed by British people in 1818 rebellion. Remained parts of the palace were used to build this temple. Therefore it is called “Maliga” මාලිගා and because of the presence of a large library called “Pothgul” පොත්ගුල්. The original carved stone door frame, moon stone and stone pillars can be seen here.

Constructions of this temple was started in 1830 and completed in 1880 by Ven. Doramitiyawe Aththadassi thero (දොරමැටියාවේ අත්තදස්සී හිමි)

Entrance of Pothgul Maliga Wiharaya

“Pothgula”/library –We couldn’t enter as chief priest was out of the temple.

Sri Pathul Viharaya , Library and Image house from right to left

Paintings still in original condition without renovation

Inside the image house

Image house

The stupa situated inside the image house is a characteristic of this temple.

Moonstone belongs to previous palace

Brass plates were used for the roof

Ancient stone door frame

Image house and stone pillars

Stone door frame

When you cross the road you may come across ancient Vishnu Dewalaya.

Vishnu Dewalaya විශ්ණු දේවාලය

Historical information

Vishnu Dewalaya-Diggeya දිග්ගෙය

Diggeya and Dewatha Bandara Dewalaya දේවතා බණ්ඩාර දේවාලය

Dolawa දෝලාව

Ancient Jack tree belonged to king. Famous joker called Andare (අන්දරේ) has eaten jack fruit from this tree.

Dadimunda Dewalaya දැඩිමුණ්ඩ දේවාලය is situated behind the Vishnu Dewalaya. Excellent stone carve called “Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය is situated here.

Dadimunda Dewalaya and “Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය

“Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය

Next place of visit was Madanwela මාදoවෙල ancient temple. It is situated in between Hanguranketha and Rikillagaskada.

Madanwela ancient temple මාදoවෙල පැරණි විහාරය

Although it is an ancient temple almost new constructions can be seen. It belonged to Dambadeniya period. According to literature there is a gold plated bronze Buddha statue which was made according to Dambadeni tradition. (As chief priest was busy I couldn’t get any information about this Buddha statue).

What remain as ancient things

Image house-new constructions

Stupa

Then we came to Rikillagaskada and reached Wagama ancient temple (වෑගම පැරණි විහාරය). Wagama can be reached via Hewahata (හේවාහැට). Actually we walked from Ekiriya (ඇකිරිය) to Wagama after visiting limestone cave.

Wegama ancient temple වෑගම පැරණි විහාරය

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Cave temple where the statue of Henakanda Biso Bandara (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර) was placed. After destroying that statue only a drawing can be seen. Unfortunately nobody was at this temple when we visited.

Drip ledge

Bell tower

Moonstone

From Wegama we came to Kithulpe (කිතුල්පේ) to visit at Kithulpe Ranpathge temple කිතුල්පේ රන්පත්ගේ විහාරය.

Kithulpe Ranpathge temple කිතුල්පේ රන්පත්ගේ විහාරය

This must be the oldest temple of this area, belonged to Anuradhapura era. The name “Ranpathge” is related to Pandukabhaya (පණ්ඩුකාභය) story. Archeologists have found pieces of clay pots belonged to Anuradhapura era at this place. Currently you can see the image house belonged to Kandyan period and few stone pillars only.

Ancient image house. New image house was built attached to this.

Entrance and ceiling-Paintings of Kandyan era

Wooden carves

Old Buddha statue

Newly constructed Stupa on old stupa

This is not the original place where stone pillars placed.

Then we came back to Rikillagaskada and reached Wilwala ancient temple (විල්වල පුරාණ විහාරය). Wilwala (විල්වල) is situated on your way from Rikillagaskada to Padiyapelalla (පදියපැලැල්ල).
There are two ways to reach Wilwala temple. If you are going by own vehicle it is easy to go to Karandagolla (කරදගොල්ල) and drive up till Wilwala temple along the concrete road. Alternative way is to take Rutland (රට්ලන්ඩ්) bus form Rikillagaskada and get down at Wilwala. Then you can follow the foot pathway closer to the Wilwala School to reach Wilwala temple.

Wilwala ancient temple විල්වල පුරාණ විහාරය

Although it is mention Wilwala belongs to Gampola period true history goes back to Anuradhapura era. This is one of a place where “Dethispalaruha” Boo trees (දෙතිස් පලරුහ බෝ ගස්) were planted during King Dewanmpiyathissa (දෙවනිපෑතිස් රජතුමා) period.

“Makara Thorana” මකර තොරණ -Entrance to the temple

Ancient “Darma Shalawa” ධර්ම ශාලාව -It needs immediate renovation. Unfortunately archeology officers still haven’t started it.

Opposite view under Makara Thorana

“Dethispalaruha” Bo tree දෙතිස් පලරුහ බෝ ගස්

Stone pillars

The cave where Hena Kanda Biso Bandara Dewalaya (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර දේවාලය) is situated. She was the queen of King Wikramabahu III (තෙවනි වික්රමබාහු රජතුමා) during Gampola period. People believe this temple was built by Hena Kanda Biso Bandara Dewi (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර දේවිය).

Two story image house. This is an extension of old cave image house. Right part of the upper floor was built recently.

Ground floor has the old image house. This is the entrance.

Seated Buddha statue found in the old image house. Note the Makara Thorana over it.

Paintings

Upper floor has two Buddha statues. One is reclined Buddha statue placed recently. This seated one must be old few decades. But it is beautiful.

Moon stone

This stone inscription carries an important message. It mentions the donation of King Wijayabahu V (A.C 1344) for this temple. This is an evidence this temple is older than Gampola era.

Following that we walked towards Karandagolla and got a bus towards Padiyapelalla. Next place was Morapaya RMV (මොරපාය රජමහා විහාරය). Ancient Morapaya temple is situated in Padiyapelalla-Mandaram Nuwara (මන්දාරම් නුවර) road.

Morapaya RMV (මොරපාය රජමහා විහාරය)

The story behind this temple is interesting. A precious golden Buddha statue can be seen at this temple. It was placed by Maliyadewa Arahath Thero මලියදේව රහතන් වහන්සේ. (Last Arahath Thero of Sri Lanka). This temple is situated close to Belihuk Oya (බෙලිහුක් ඔය). In early part of 17th century temple was destructed by a landslides and Buddha statue has been vanished. Later it was found by two merchants.
Current temple was built in early part of 19th century and still golden Buddha statue can be seen. This temple is situated on the right side of Belihuk Oya. (Old temple was at left side)

Two image houses were built in different periods.

This image house was painted at 1957.

Seated Buddha statue seen in new image house.

Two story old image house.

Ground floor has statues of King Dutugamunu (දුටුගැමුණු රජතුමා), King Elara (එළාර රජතුමා) and Ten giants (දසමහා යෝදයෝ) . First time I saw these statues together at a temple.

Moon stone only carries two elephants.

Ceiling of upper floor is decorated with beautiful paintings. Paintings of the outer wall say the story of golden Buddha statue and this temple.

Entrance of upper floor of the image house.

The golden Buddha statue can be seen in upper floor. There are statues of different gods as well. I didn’t include a photo of this precious Buddha statue due to security reasons. Once it was taken by treasure hunters and later found. Paintings belong to early part of 19th century.

Watarakgoda Pussadewa Temple (වටරක්ගොඩ පුස්සදේව විහාරය)

This temple is situated in Walapane (වලපනේ). Take the road closer to Walapane bus depot to reach Watarakgoda.
Pussadewa Thero පුස්සදේව රහතන් වහන්සේ (One of Ten giants of King Dutugamunu later became a priest following the war) has lived here. Therefore it is called Pussadewa temple.
Nowadays only few scattered ruins can be seen.

This temple has both Na tree and Bo tree together.

New stupa was built on ancient stupa. As this temple is not under archeology department, new constructions have been done.

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Stone pillars

Old Bo tree

Randenigala reservoir (රණ්දෙනිගල ජලාශය)

In searching of serpentine rock at Rupaha රූපහ -“Garandugala” ගරඩුගල

This is the largest (may be the only) serpentine rock found in Sri Lanka. First we went to Ragala town from Walapane and then reached Manthreethanna (මන්ත්‍රීතැන්න). Manthreethanna is a beautiful village comes in Rawana legend. King Rawana’s poultry was at Manthreethanna. From Manthreethanna we came to Rupaha to reach serpentine rock called “Garandugala” (ගරඩුගල).

This serpentine rock covers few acres of the land.

On our way back we walked to Kotambe and then came to Walapane via Neeldandahinna (නීල්ද්ණ්ඩාහින්න). You can approach Garandugala by this way as well.

Ragala -> Manthreethanna -> Garandugala -> Kotambe -> Neeldandahinna -> Walapane

Serpentine is a rock composed of one or more serpentine group minerals. Minerals in this group are formed serpentinization, a hydration and metamorphic transformation of ultramafic rock from the earth.-from Wikipedia

Surrounding view on my way to serpentine rock

Serpentine rock

It is greenish in colour. True colour exposed out.

Some villagers get pieces of serpentine rock to make some ornaments

Pieces in greenish colour

It spreads over few acres and a water stream flows over it.

Landscaping

Randenigala reservoir back.

Thank you for reading.

The map – Click to enlarge

After the preceding days failed attempt in reaching Mill oya falls I decided to give it another try on the very next day. I never wanted to give up knowing that this hidden beauty will not flow as she had been doing all these years in few more months after the newly built mini hydro project starts functioning. So I reached Millebedda early as I could to try and reach the waterfall from the top because visiting it from Walas ella side was a failure.

Delan was a trishaw guy who I met at Millebedda temple and even he had not visited this waterfall but yet he was keen enough to join me on this venture. So we took the road named Kanchana which was about 1.5Km towards Lunugala(from millebedda). After traveling about 5Km’s we reached a house where we halted the trishaw and walked towards the Power hydro project work site located on top of the waterfall. Few guys who recognized me asked “ah mahattaya adath awada?” and I did give them a smile and said “ada nam meka balalamai yanne”. I was so determined that no one could stop me in doing so, we did walk along the Mill oya stream and reached the location where water was diverted and followed the concrete canal under construction for some distance. We stepped in to the jungle at a point where we thought it would be an easy approach to the base. It was a steep downhill descend and we had to crawl holding on to creepers at many instances too. Finally we reached the base of a stream but yet the waterfall couldn’t be seen. After climbing few huge boulders with uttermost difficulty we reached the base of Mill oya falls which was also known as Gona wetuna ella. This beauty has two parts and the top part could only be seen partly. The cascade is completely hidden and one needs to get to its base to have a proper view of it. Though we wanted to get to the upper part it was not possible at all. Next we started climbing from the opposite side and we were greeted by leeches and thorny wewal. After a good mud bath we reached a mini canal which diverted water from the waterfall to feed the nearby paddy fields. We did follow it all the way until the top of the fall was reached where a clear view towards Monaragala could be appreciated. Since we had done the whole circular trail we did understand that getting down from the left side of the cascade was the best option so my advice for someone would be is “get to the top and go along the canal on the left and reach the bottom”. There is nice bathing place on top of the fall if one wants to have a dip. After getting back to the wadiya we were offered pol sambol + dhal + pork with rice as lunch which we couldn’t resist! That miraculous lunch was the best medicine we had after a tiring hike.

the only glimpse of Mill oya ella, i did attempt on the very next day

shaped for milk

devastation, see what they have done to the forest

dawn on the next day

Suddas remnants

Buttala as seen from A5

rahathankanda and budugallena

foot path to the top of mill ella

the end of the waterfall is few months away

a mini cascade, good for a shower

a cave close to the fall

Mill oya falls (Gona wetuna falls )

lower part

the top part of mill oya falls

hard task

canal we followed

top of gona wetuna falls

scenery towards monaragala

uppermost cascade

plunges down

beauty

upper part

stunning view

getting down

Next place of interest was Adi hate wala which is supposed to have a waterfall too. Many locals suggested me to go and see this beauty rather than Milla oya cascade. To get to this waterfall one needs to go uphill via few line houses. I actually can’t remember the exact turn off point but better to inquire from the locals because they are aware of its where-bouts. There is a 1.5Km foot path which will lead to this beauty and it’s also a cascade of Milla oya. The base pool is said to be 60’ deep hence the name Adi hate wala was given. Downstream there is another beautiful cascade but does not have a clear path to reach it.

grey hornbill

play time

lower part

shining upper part

60 feet in depth

beauty

upper part

drops plunging down

Adi Hate wala falls

Adi Hate wala lower cascade

the path

From Hopton I went towards Yapamma and got off at a bo tree with a yellow coloured Buddha shrine. The concrete road uphill leads towards the famous “Besam wala” of Lunugala. The 2Km walk along this paved road was well worth it. After a while I reached a bridge and 50 meters upstream from it the famous Besam wala could be found. This is one of those wonderful creations of Mother Nature. The stream which is flowing downhill collects in to a rock pond and then overflows resembling a rocky basin. The depth was about 4’. I couldn’t resist not getting in to it and having a dip. Later on I ventured upstream to explore few cascades and similar bathing places but I was tormented by resident leeches . Since it was drizzling I returned back to the main road and headed towards Passara to catch a bus to Monaragala and end my day.

name board

රන් නලල් කොට්ටෝරැවා

feeling the cold

not ambewela but lunugala

Solitary

police has put up some notices on rocks close to besama

slow shutter besama lower fall

besam wala

upstream similar location

Besama upper fall

top of besama

good bye besama, I will be back

castle of electricity

Day two even before the sun decided to rise I got a bus towards Badalkumbura and reached the town where I hired a trishaw to visit a famous historical temple called Dummaletenna which was 10 Km’s away from Badalkumbura town. The road was almost washed away at some places close to the temple but we did manage it with are trishaw. This ancient temple is said to be one of those places where great king Dutugemunu rested while marching towards Anuradhapura. Also this is surrounded by Kubukkan river on three sides and the other side been occupied by a paddy field which produces some stunning landscapes. This temple has a restored pagoda where only the outer protective wall remains from the past. The image house which is under construction has some vandalized statues and it seems like the remaining bit also would be lost in time when the new one gets completed. After having a chat with the monk I took off towards Badalkumbura to have some breakfast and join my friend and his wife who was searching for a wonderful location to go on their anniversary.

Dummalethenna temple

vandalized and repaired

Dummalethenna temple statues

under construction

note the ancient outer wall

beautiful

poya geya

Karavila bubula

pride of uva

bordered by kumbukkan oya

We decided to visit Alupotha fort where and Archaeology board directing towards inland from Badalkumbura Passara road could be seen. Following the board we went towards Alupotha and within no time we were confused by the locals who repeatedly said there is no such thing to see. Somehow after a wild goose chase we came to know that the current Alupotha town was the fort long ago. This is the place where “Weera Keppetipola” joined the rebels according to the history books. My friend and his wife were teasing me all the way because they saw nothing interesting though there was a black archeology board. I felt like removing the board but within no time that feeling vanished away. So now I needed to compensate and satisfy my friends and that is what I did. Bambaragala pathana my favourite view point of Wellassa was where I took them next and they really enjoyed the panoramic view from that point.

is there a purpose of this board anymore

remnants of the fort

old buildings

Bambaragala pathana scenery

wellassa

towards wellawaya

From Namunukula we went towards Ella and on the way at a big elbow bend we were forced to stop and enjoy an awesome view towards Wellawaya town. We also named this as “Balleketuwa gap”. Next stop was Wellawaya Kotaweheragala temple. There is a small pagoda seen on a rocky plateau few Km’s away from Wellawaya. Since it was a scenic place we decided to climb that rock. The access point to this temple is about 2Km’s away from Wellawaya on Monaragala road. the temple is a modified place and if one wants to reach the pagoda you need to start climbing up from the image house. The task was not easy as we thought but the blissful scenery seen from the top made us forget everything. The mountain ranges of Poonagala, Namunukula , Ella rock could be seen clearly from the pagoda. To our surprise the pagoda was an ancient one which was later refurbished and the remains of the old pagoda was evidence for that. After hanging around a bit we set foot towards Badalkumbura.

Balleketuwa gap towards wellawaya

wellawaya town

Kota weheragala at wellawaya

the image house

uphill climb

leafless

note the rocks from the ancient sthupa

the view

wadinahela side

Poonagala range

wellawaya town

Ella gap