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Hidden Buddhist monastery of Rajarata – Manakanda (මානාකන්ද)

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Year and Month March, 2012 (7th)
Number of Days One Day Trip (half a day)
Crew 02
Accommodation N/A
Transport Motor bike then walking
Activities Sightseeing, Archeology and Photography
Weather In between had few showers
Route Colombo -> Maradankadawala -> Manakanda
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Better start the journey in the early morning to avoid afternoon sunlight.
  • Bring one bottle of water as there are no water sources while you are climbing
  • Don’t leave anything than your footprints.
  • Having a chat with someone found in the Archeology office may be useful for your knowledge bank. I missed it.
Related Resources Disucssion: Manakanda Archaeological Site and Possible Camping Site
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

I got to know about Manakanda (381.3m) from an article written in the book called Wanasena wanapeth (වැනසෙන වනපෙත්).Then one of my friends lives in Maradankadawala (මරදන්කඩවල) joined with me for this journey.
I reached Maradankadawala about 11am by Colombo-Anuradhapura bus. (A9 Road).

We took our way in Maradankadawala-Ipalogama (ඉපලෝගම) road until we came across the archeology board on left side of the road.
It indicated 3km from there to Manakanda archeology site. Manakanda road was not that much good but surrounding view was scenic. Manakanada was seen nearby.

Where it is situated

Where it is situated – Click Image to Enlarge

Manakanda

Manakanda

Following rain

Following rain

Common in this area

Common in this area

Finally we came to the Archaeology office of Manakanda, but nobody was there.

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Climbing up

Climbing up

Manakanda was found as an ancient Buddhist monastery started on 3-2 B.C. It is similar to Ritigala, Arankale and Rajagalathanna. At the moment they have found ruins of 70 buildings at Manakanda archeology site. There are stone inscriptions mentioning some regional leaders have donated few caves to Buddhist priests during Anuradhapura period. Most of these buildings carry features of 9-10 A.C.

The first building we met. It is a “Janthagaraya” (ජන්ථාඝරය) This was used to treat and bath sick Buddhist monks

The first building we met. It is a “Janthagaraya” (ජන්ථාඝරය) This was used to treat and bath sick Buddhist monks

Entrance of Janthagaraya

Entrance of Janthagaraya

“Beheth ambarum gala” බෙහෙත් ඇඹරුම් ගල

“Beheth ambarum gala” බෙහෙත් ඇඹරුම් ගල

Circular flat form rest station -Similar to Ritigala

Circular flat form rest station -Similar to Ritigala

The road

The road

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Then we came back and followed the pathway towards the pond.

The pond

The pond

Boundary of the pond

Boundary of the pond

Foot pathway getting narrow

Foot pathway getting narrow

Ruins of a Padanagaraya (පධානඝරය) Note the double platform

Ruins of a Padanagaraya (පධානඝරය) Note the double platform

Footprints of wild Elephants

Footprints of wild Elephants

Ruins of another Padanagara

Ruins of another Padanagara

The foot pathway brought us more into the forest and now it started to ascend through giant trees. This forest is full of Kaluwara, Hal, Milla, Thammenna, Ata Thimbiriya trees. Then we came across cave with drip ledges. We could notice some stone inscriptions below the drip ledge.

A cave with recently built walls

A cave with recently built walls

Drip ledge and stone inscriptions below it

Drip ledge and stone inscriptions below it

Other cave- treasurer hunters have started their work

Other cave- treasurer hunters have started their work

Another cave

Another cave

Then foot pathway disappeared. But we want to go to top of the rock. Somehow we climbed further up. Now undergrowth could be noted in the forest.

Thick undergrowth

Thick undergrowth

Can accommodate a human

Can accommodate a human

Ritigala was captured

Ritigala was captured

Eventually came on the top of the mountain but there was no place to watch around. Then we walked further towards right side to find a view point. Finally got on to a nice view point

Ritigala - Giant of Rajarata

Ritigala – Giant of Rajarata

Pullankulama mountain

Pullankulama mountain

Further extension of Manakanda. Note there is a construction on it. It may be a nicer view point

Further extension of Manakanda. Note there is a construction on it. It may be a nicer view point

Countless lakes of Rajarata

Countless lakes of Rajarata

May be Galgiriya mountain

May be Galgiriya mountain

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Nice rock formation

Nice rock formation

Zoomed view

Zoomed view

On our way back we were caught into the rain and it took about 4 hours for the journey.

Thanks for reading

 

 


Trip to Embilipitiya

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Year and Month February, 2013 & March, 2013
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 2 [Guide: Anura]
Accommodation Sarathchandra guest house Embilipitiya T.P. 0472230044
Transport Bus and three-wheeler
Activities Photography, Waterfalls seeing, Archeology
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Godakawela -> Ammaduwa -> Pallebadda -> Udagama -> Wawulpane -> Walawe junction -> Embilipitiya -> Panamure -> Maduwanwela
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Better have a good plan before you visit at all these places.
  • If possible read what you can see at these places before go there.
  • If you use your own vehicle, you can cover these places in two days.
  • When you visit at Waulpane, please get special precautions.(Refer trip reports on that)
Related Resources
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This was a long awaited trip to Embilipitiya for my personal matters. Then I decided to visit at some places on the way to Embilipitiya and following whole day was used to visit at places at Kollonna. Later I went in another separate day to visit at some places at Godakawela.

We got the Embilipitiya bus from Pettah at 4.15am and got down at Godakawela.

Godakawela was our first place to visit due to Mahindarama Tam piti Wiharaya (මහින්දාරාම ටැම් පිටි විහාරය) and Ammaduwa Katharagama Dewalaya (අම්මඩුව කතරගම දේවාලය).

Mahindarama Tam piti Wiharaya (මහින්දාරාම ටැම් පිටි විහාරය)

Mahindarama temple is situated in Godakawela town. Meegasthanne Adhikarama (මීගස්තැන්නේ අදිකාරම්) has built this temple under instructions of King Keerthi Sri Rajasingha කීර්ති ශ්රි රාජසිoහ (A.C 1747). Today you can see the image house of tampiti temple and Saman Dewalaya. It is hard to see a Tampiti temple in southern Sri Lanka.

Unfortunately we couldn’t go inside the image house as it was closed.

Image house of Tampiti temple. There are paintings of Saman and Vishnu on either side of the entrance

Image house of Tampiti temple. There are paintings of Saman and Vishnu on either side of the entrance

Tampiti temple

Tampiti temple

Then we visited at Ammaduwa Katharagama Dewalaya which is situated about 5km from Godakawela town. We got Ammaduwa bus from Godakawela town and got down right in front of Dewalaya. If you are going by Galkanda bus, you have to walk about 500m to reach Dewalaya. But that walk is worth as there are scenic views of paddy fields.

Ammaduwa Katharagama Dewalaya (අම්මඩුව කතරගම දේවාලය)

Ammaduwa Katharagama Dewalaya

Ammaduwa Katharagama Dewalaya

Historical background

This was built during Kotte period (14th Century). A group of devotees have come to worship Uggal Aluthnuwara Dewalaya උග්ගල් අලුත් නුවර දේවාලය. (Refer the trip report on Visit to Uggal Aluthnuwara, (Balangoda), former Etharawa Koralaya in search of a fromal Traditional temple centered village in Sri Lanka. Its historical sites and other connected temples.) As they didn’t have accommodation at that place and got angry. Then they left their sacred things at Ammaduwa area. One of a regional leader got to know it and built this Dewalaya to worship those sacred things. Later King Parakramabahu of Kotte has allocated villagers for the service of this sacred place.

Main building is 88feet long and it has four parts as Kattaha Maduwa (කට්ටාහ මඩුව), Wattaram Shalawa (වට්ටාරම් ශාලාව), Diggeya (දිග්ගෙය) and Store room. The floor can be seen above Diggeya and store room, named as Maligawa (මාළිගාව). It is the place for ornaments of the god. There is another floor above that and nothing can be found there.

Image house, Kitchen, Kundasalaya (කුණ්ඩසාලය) and Paththini dewalaya (පත්තිනි දේවාලය) can be seen around the main building. There is a passage from main left exit of the Diggeya to Kitchen, named as Diga shalawa (දිග ශාලාව).

Kundasalaya is the place to watch dancing of Perahara.

Sinhasanaya (සින්හාසනය) is another room can be found near to main entrance and used to get a rest following Perahara.

There is a parapet around the Dewalaya for safety.

Main building of Dewalaya

Main building of Dewalaya

First floor is Maligawa. Ornaments are there

First floor is Maligawa. Ornaments are there

Entrance to Kattaha maduwa

Entrance to Kattaha maduwa

Kattaha Maduwa is closed

Kattaha Maduwa is closed

Kundasale is used to watch dancing at perahara season

Kundasale is used to watch dancing at perahara season

Down view from Kundasalaya

Down view from Kundasalaya

Main entrance, Sinhasanaya, garden and surrounding environment

Main entrance, Sinhasanaya, garden and surrounding environment

Sinhasanaya – used to get a rest following perahara

Sinhasanaya – used to get a rest following perahara

Scenic view met on the way

Scenic view met on the way

Current state

Every Wednesday evening they open doors of Dewalaya and have a puja to God Katharagama. Annual Perahara festival is in September month. Unfortunately we couldn’t see inside the Dewalaya as it was closed at morning time. Therefore better visit on Wednesday evening if possible.

After worshiping Ammaduwa temple we came back to Godakawela town and got a bus towards pallebadda. The road towards the Kamburugamuwa (කඹුරුගමුව) brought us to two places – Udagama Duvili Ella (උඩගම දුවිලි ඇල්ල) and Wavulpane (වවුල්පනේ) cave. Anura was our guide as well as driver for these places. (Later he became a good friend of us. T.P.0723577599)

Udagama Duvili Ella (උඩගම දුවිලි ඇල්ල) and Udagama Handapan Ella (උඩගම හදපාන් ඇල්ල)

To reach Udagama Duvili Ella, you have to go to Udagama junction in Kamburugamuwa road (2km) and then towards Udagama. There is a foot pathway towards the waterfall, first through the paddy fields and then within a forest patch. It is bit difficult to reach there without a known person.

It’s height is about 30m and origin is Miyanakoladeniya oya (මියන්කොලදෙනිය ඔය)

Where foot pathway starts

Where foot pathway starts

The way through paddy fields

The way through paddy fields

A friend met on the way

A friend met on the way

Had to cross a water stream

Had to cross a water stream

Udagama Duvili Ella

Udagama Duvili Ella

Miyankoladeniya oya flows

Miyankoladeniya oya flows

Udagama Handapan Ella is situated about 100m away from the Duvili Ella. You have to cross the water stream and climb little bit up to reach this beautiful waterfall. It is 200feet height.

Udagama Handapan Ella

Udagama Handapan Ella

Water is collected for Hydro power project

Water is collected for Hydro power project

After enjoying the beauty of two waterfalls, we moved towards Wawulpane lime stone cave.

Wavulpane lime stone cave

To reach wavulpane cave, you have to travel in Kamburugamuwa road towards Waulpane-about 15Km (Without turning to Udagama). If you use public transport, there is a van from Pallebadda to Wavulpane only on Mondays and Fridays. (Fair days). You can reach Wavulpane primary school by that van.

By a private vehicle, you can reach Wavulpane primary school and need to walk about 500m. It is bit difficult to travel there by a car. Four wheel or “three wheel” is ideal.

Anura guided us here as well. (Although his first visit to lime cave!) There are alternative routes to reach there as well.

This is the largest and oldest lime stone cave in Sri Lanka and only lime stone cave with an underground waterfall in the world. It is 457feet long and height of the cave differs from place to place. The forest patch surrounds the cave is called Wavulpane forest conservation. This cave is old as 50000 years and stones are belong to Cambridge era.

First we came to the entrance of the cave and changed our clothes.

The road towards the entrance. Board indicating that. The road in front of the board is to exit

The road towards the entrance. Board indicating that. The road in front of the board is to exit

On the way to entrance we came across hard water origin. It produces 26L per second contains CaCO3, Fe (OH)2, Mg salts. – Kiwul Diya Ulpatha (කිවුල් දිය උල්පත)

On the way to entrance we came across hard water origin. It produces 26L per second contains CaCO3, Fe (OH)2, Mg salts. – Kiwul Diya Ulpatha (කිවුල් දිය උල්පත)

It's yellowish in colour

It’s yellowish in colour

People believe bathing of this water will cure skin diseases

People believe bathing of this water will cure skin diseases

This water stream flows in to the cave through a hole called “Andaraya” අඪාරය to make world’s only underground waterfall

This water stream flows in to the cave through a hole called “Andaraya” අඪාරය to make world’s only underground waterfall

Two parallel entrances

Two parallel entrances

Halwini dola flows out through one entrance

Halwini dola flows out through one entrance

Other entrance

Other entrance

Have to go through this to watch the waterfall

Have to go through this to watch the waterfall

Underground waterfall, about 150feet height

Underground waterfall, about 150feet height

This is the home for more than one million bats. About 7laks out of them are carnivorous

This is the home for more than one million bats. About 7laks out of them are carnivorous

There are about 12 side caves inside the main cave. Most of the times need a ladder to reach them

There are about 12 side caves inside the main cave. Most of the times need a ladder to reach them

Ample of cockroaches being food to bats

Ample of cockroaches being food to bats

Coral formation outside the cave

Coral formation outside the cave

Outer walls of the cave. Note stalactites formation. Stalactites are lime stone columns that hang from the cave roof

Outer walls of the cave. Note stalactites formation. Stalactites are lime stone columns that hang from the cave roof

Need a superb flash light for this expedition. This is our guide

Need a superb flash light for this expedition. This is our guide

Another friend we met

Another friend we met

After watching the underground waterfall, we came out and then walk towards the exit door.

Nice rock formation at exit - Stalactites

Nice rock formation at exit – Stalactites

Halwini Dola flows into the cave

Halwini Dola flows into the cave

Exit

Exit

Getting down from the exit is hazardous. Droppings of bats with water make the floor extremely slipper

Getting down from the exit is hazardous. Droppings of bats with water make the floor extremely slipper

Note thousands of stars in the dark

Note thousands of stars in the dark

They describe a small cave on right side of the exit as a labour room for bats. This is called Malwathu Room. (මල්වතු කාමරය

They describe a small cave on right side of the exit as a labour room for bats. This is called Malwathu Room. (මල්වතු කාමරය

Rock formation

Rock formation

We didn't forget bath at Yodaya Kapu Wala (යෝදයා කැපූ වල)

We didn’t forget bath at Yodaya Kapu Wala (යෝදයා කැපූ වල)

Then they describe about Madu Hen Yaya (මඩු හේන් යාය) which is situated about 2km from the cave. It has about 4000 Madu tress and reminds about Jurassic period. But we couldn’t go there.

Scenery I captured on my way back

Scenery I captured on my way back

Following Wavulpane cave we came back to Pallebadda town and had lunch.

Anura voluntarily dropped us at next destination, Pussadewa tomb. (ඵුස්සදේව සොහොන)

Pussadewa Tomb- ඵුස්සදේව සොහොන

It is in left hand side of the main road, few kilometers away from the Pallebadda junction towards Embilipitiya

It is in left hand side of the main road, few kilometers away from the Pallebadda junction towards Embilipitiya

The cemetery of great warrior of King Dutugamunu-Pussadewa

The cemetery of great warrior of King Dutugamunu-Pussadewa

Then we stopped at Sankapala (සoඛපාල) ancient temple and we said good bye to Anura.

Sankapala temple (සoඛපාල)

This is one of a famous places found in Embilipitiya road, 7km from Pallebadda town. The great warrior of King Dutugemunu-Pussadewa has deposited his conch shell-“Jaya sankaya” (ජය සoඛය) in one of rocks found at this area. Therefore this area was named as Sankapala.

Following the war, King Dutugamunu has offered a village to Pussadewa. “Labadda” (ලබැද්ද) is that village. Later it becomes Pallebadda (පල්ලේබැද්ද)

Current temple and surrounding cave temples are belong to Kandayan era. There are caves with drip ledges in the mountain area belong to Anuradhapura period. Following Anuradhapura period, this temple was forested and King Rajadhirajasingha (රාජාධිරාජසිoහ) has donated this village to the great poet Korathota Dammarama Thero (කොරතොට ධම්මාරාම හිමි)

Entrance of Sankapala Temple

Entrance of Sankapala Temple

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New constructions

New constructions

Stone pillars scattered within new constructions

Stone pillars scattered within new constructions

Second and third image houses-paintings belong to Kandyan period

Second and third image houses-paintings belong to Kandyan period

Drip ledge with cone shell

Drip ledge with cone shell

Newly built Stupa

Newly built Stupa

A poem written by Korathota Dammarama Thero on the door of image house

A poem written by Korathota Dammarama Thero on the door of image house – Click Image to Enlarge

This temple carries another importance as famous poet called Gajaman Nona (ගජමන් නෝනා) also learnt poetry from Korathota Dammarama Thero at this temple. There are number of caves in the rock which is situated behind the temple, but I didn’t visit there.

Sirinaga temple (සිරි නාග විහාරය)

Our last place of visit of that day is Sirinaga temple (සිරි නාග විහාරය). It is situated at Walawe junction (වලවේ හන්දිය). (Where Udawalawe road meets Embilipitiya road). If you are going by bus, get down one bus halt before the junction.

King Mahanaga (මහානාග රජතුමා) has built this temple and there are evidences of a Tampiti temple.

Today it has only few stone pillars and otherwise completely a new temple.

Remaining stone pillars

Remaining stone pillars

That day evening we reached Embilipitiya and stayed at Sarathchandra guest house

That day evening we reached Embilipitiya and stayed at Sarathchandra guest house

Day 2

After finishing my personal activities at Embilipitiya, we started the journey for second day. This day I decided to visit at few places in Embilipitiya-Kolonna (කොලොන්න) road.

Panamure Elephant Kraal (පනාමුරේ ඇත් ගාල)

Panamure is situated at 5km from Embilipitiya in Kolonna road. You can reach there by any bus going to Kolonna. To reach Elephant Kraal, you have to get a three-wheeler from Panamure junction to Ethgala (ඇත් ගාල).

There was a famous elephant kraal at this place during British colonial period. You can notice a perennial spring here. Elephants came to drink water there because of mineral tasty. Then people captured elephants and tamed them.

Famous Panamure Elephant is not a tusker (although called giant tusker), were also captured here. But it was so furious (Literature says because of a mating elephant). In that case, this huge elephant was shot and killed. This made a big issue in the country and parliament has banded the kraal. This ends the last elephant kraal of the country (1896-1950).

Nowadays you can see the Kraal restricted to a small land which consists of a museum, monument of Panamure elephant (to be opened) and water spring.

“Diya bubula’’ දිය බුබුල water spring

“Diya bubula’’ දිය බුබුල water spring

It flows behind the kraal

It flows behind the kraal

Monument to be opened

Monument to be opened

Panamure Elephant

Panamure Elephant

This is he

This is he

Old Kraal was like this

Old Kraal was like this

When this elephant was shot. Thanks for the person who is looking after the place for supplying these photos

When this elephant was shot. Thanks for the person who is looking after the place for supplying these photos

Then we came back to Panamure and travelled till 8th mile post to visit at Sri Sandagala Temple-Botiyawawa. You have to get a three wheeler from 8th mile post to reach this temple and road condition was not too bad. It is about 3km to the temple. The importance of this temple is, it has the highest wooden Buddha statue of Sri Lanka. It has no historical value and made on 2005.

Sri Sandagala temple-Botiyawewa (ශ්රි සදගල විහාරය බෝටියවැව)

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It was made by Rukkaththana (රුක් අත්තන) wood

It was made by Rukkaththana (රුක් අත්තන) wood

27 feet high

27 feet high

Our next attraction was famous architecture during colonial period, Maduwanwela walawwa. The bus dropped us in front of Walawwa.

Maduwanwela Walawa (මඩුවන්වෙල වලව්ව්)

This was started to build in 1700 by Wijayasundara Abayakoon

Ekanayaka Mudalithma (විජයසුන්දර අබයකෝන් ඒකනායක මුදලිතුමා).There was a fight between a cobra and a mongoose here and Cobra won. As result this land was selected to build it. Following him, others have expanded this bungalow and J.W.Maduwanwela Disawe ජේ. ඩබ්. මඩුවන්වෙල දිසාවේ (1844-1930) has made current one. Maduwanwela Disawe was very famous at that time.

Stone entrance to the land

Stone entrance to the land

Parapet around the Walawwa and garden

Parapet around the Walawwa and garden

Second entrance

Second entrance

Maduwanwela Walawwa and garden

Maduwanwela Walawwa and garden

The Bo tree was used to worship

The Bo tree was used to worship

Pioneer of the Walawwa-Wijayasundara Abayakoon Ekanayaka Mudalithuma

Pioneer of the Walawwa-Wijayasundara Abayakoon Ekanayaka Mudalithuma

View of a courtyard. It had 21 courtyards and now can see only 7

View of a courtyard. It had 21 courtyards and now can see only 7

This upper floor is named as Burutha Maligaya (බුරුත මාලිගය) as Burutha wood has been used for it’s constructions

This upper floor is named as Burutha Maligaya (බුරුත මාලිගය) as Burutha wood has been used for it’s constructions

Tile designing

Tile designing

It had a labor room as well. It had 121 rooms

It had a labor room as well. It had 121 rooms

Ancient bath tub

Ancient bath tub

Ruins

Ruins

Stone inscription found there

Stone inscription found there

Pirith Mandappaya පිරිත් මන්ඩප්පය

Pirith Mandappaya පිරිත් මන්ඩප්පය

Grinding stone

Grinding stone

Moon stone

Moon stone

A great part of walawwa is in the process of restoration by the archaeology department.

A great part of walawwa is in the process of restoration by the archaeology department.

The ancient well

The ancient well

Following enjoying this great mansion, we came to the main road to visit at our last place of the trip- Maduwanwela Duvili Ella.

Maduwanwela Duvili Ella (මඩුවන්වෙල දුවිලි ඇල්ල)

You have to follow the road in front of Maduwanwela Walawwa to reach this waterfall.

Following the cart road, have to follow the foot pathway which goes through paddy fields and then parallel to the Araporuwa River (ඇරපෝරුව ගග). You will come across three significant waterfalls, but third one is usually named as Duvili Ella-25m high.

Maduwanwela Lake

Maduwanwela Lake

Foot pathway goes through the paddy fields

Foot pathway goes through the paddy fields

Cascade 1 -10m height

Cascade 1 -10m height

Cascade 2- 12m height

Cascade 2- 12m height

Foot pathway to down

Foot pathway to down

Cascade 3 named as Duvili Ella

Cascade 3 named as Duvili Ella

Araporuwa Rive continues her flow and makes Neralu Ella (නෙරළු ඇල්ල) which is situated about 3km away from Duvili Ella. This foot pathway continues towards the Neralu Ella and then to Ranchamadama. We didn’t have a time to follow it. After having a bath at Araporuwa River we finished our journey.

Thanks for enjoying it.

 

 

In and around Panama, Kumana & Kudimbigala

$
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Year and Month February, 2010
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew 4 Manju, Jayaneththi, Piyumal, Sumith.(between 20-40 years of age)
Accommodation Camping
  • 1st Day Kumbukkan Oya Heraligas Ara Camp site.
  • 2nd Day Kumbukkan Oya Moya Kata (mouth of a river) Camp Site.
  • 3rd Day Top of Kudimbigala Lake
Transport Mitsubishi 4DR5 Jeep
Activities Wildlife, Photography
Weather Excellent, sunny
Route Piliyandala -> Horana -> Rathnapura -> Udawalawa -> Thanamalwila -> wellawaya -> Monaragala -> Siyambanduwa -> Pothuwil-> Panama -> Okanda -> Kumana Park and return on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Camp sites should be reserved though Department of Wild life office at Okanda.
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water at least for drinking purposed.
  • Wildlife Bungalows are not Available in Kumana. Camps Site only.
  • Foods and other things can be bought take from Pothuwil town. or before
Author sumith
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

පිළියන්දලින් රාත්රී 11 ට පමන පිටත්වූ අප උදෑසන 9 පමණ වන විට පොතුවිල් මුහුදු මහා විහාරයට ලඟා වුනෙමු. කුමන පිවිසුමට ලඟාවන විට දහවල් 12 පමණ විය. එතැනින් දිවා ආහාරය ගත් අප අපේ පළමු දින නවාතැන වූ කුඹුක්කන් ඔය හෙරලිගස් ආර බලා පිටත් වුනෙමු. කුමන පිවිසුමෙන් ඇතුල්වූ අප බාගුර පිටිය, කුමන විල්ලුව, මඩමතොට පසු කරමින් 23 පමණ දුර ගෙවා හෙරලිගස් ආරට ලඟා වුනෙමු. රාත්රී ආහාරය පිළියෙල කර දණක් පමන කුඹුක්කන් ඔය ජලයේ බැස ඇතිවන තුරු නා ගතිමු.

Pothuwil Muhudu Maha Viharaya

Pothuwil Muhudu Maha Viharaya

Kumana Park Entrance

Kumana Park Entrance

Kumana shallow lake (Villuwa

Kumana shallow lake (Villuwa)

Elephant

Elephant

Kumbukkan Oya

Kumbukkan Oya

Kumbukkan Oya

Kumbukkan Oya

Heraligas Ara Camp site

1st Day Camp site – Heraligas Ara Camp site

Heraligas Ara Camp site

1st Day Camp site – Heraligas Ara Camp site

පසුදින වනොද්යානයේ විවිධ ස්ථාන නැරඹීමට ගියෙමු. දුටුවන්ගේ නෙතට කඳුලක් නන්වන දසුනක් වූයේ බඹරගස්තලාව පුදබිමේ සැත්පෙන බුදුපිළිම වහන්සේට නිදන් හොරුන් විසින් කරතිබූ හානිය දුටු විටය.

එදින අපගේ නවාතැන වූයේ මෝය කට කඳවුරු බිමයි.

Jeep Crossing the River

Jeep Crossing the River

Landscape

Landscape

Crossing the lake to go to Bambaragasthalawa

Crossing the lake to go to Bambaragasthalawa

Gal kema

Gal kema

Bambaragasthalawa Buddha statue

Bambaragasthalawa Buddha statue

2nd Day Camp site(Moya kata)

2nd Day Camp site(Moya kata)

Kumbukkan oya at Moya kata

Kumbukkan oya at Moya kata

තෙවන දින ඔකඳ දේවාලය කුඩුම්බිගල ආරණ්ය සේනාසනය හා අවට සංචාරය කල අපගේ නවාතැන වුයේ කුඩුම්බිගල වැව අසල විශාල ගල් තලාවයි. මෙම ස්ථානයේ ලැගුම් ගැනීමට අවසර ලබාගැනීමට අවශ්ය නොවේ. අවශ්යකනම් කුඩුම්බිගල විශ්රාම ශාලාවේ ලැගුම් ගැනීමට පුලුවන

Yoda Lipa

Yoda Lipa

Our Vehicle

Our Vehicle

Kudimbigala Natural Buddha statue

Kudimbigala Natural Buddha statue

One and only Cylindrical pagoda in Sri lanka  (Kudimbigala Aakasa chaythya) Same as Baranesa Isipathana Migadaya

One and only Cylindrical pagoda in Sri lanka
(Kudimbigala Aakasa chaythya)
Same as Baranesa Isipathana Migadaya

3rd Day Night stay in around the Rock at Kudimbigala Lake

3rd Day Night stay in around the Rock at
Kudimbigala Lake

departure from Kudimbigala Lake

departure from Kudimbigala Lake

Jone mama,s House in Panama

Jone mama,s House in Panama

Elephant at Lahugala Lake

Elephant at Lahugala Lake

සිව්වන දින කුඩුම්බිගලින් පිටත්වූ අප කොළඹට පැමිනෙන විට රාත්‍රී 8 පමණ විය

අප සමග එක්වූ මංජු මෙවැනි සඳහා ඉතා අත්දැකීම් බහුල පුද්ගලයෙකි. විෂේශයෙන් කැබිලිත්ත දේවාලයට යන ගමන් සඳහා විශාල අත්දැකීමක් ඔහු සතුය. 0770694475 දුරකථනයට කතාකර ඔහුගේ සහයෝගය ලබාගත හැක

 

Remains from King Saddhatissa Era

$
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Year and Month January, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 4
Accommodation N/A
Transport Trishaw
Activities Archeology, trekking
Weather Overcast conditions
Route Iginiyagala -> Namal Oya -> Kadurugoda -> Namal oya -> Kahatagasyaya -> Nella -> Namal Oya -> Iginiyagala -> Padagoda -> Moragahapallama -> Padagoda -> Koknahara(Kethsirigama)-> Pallan oya -> Devalahinda -> Iginiyagala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Get permission from the head priest
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Some places require 4WD or trishaws
  • Behave accordingly at hermitages
  • Explain your intentions clearly
  • My main intention is creating awareness; if you want to know more about the place the head priests of these locations will give you a good description when you visit :-)
Related Resources Pubblication: Digamadulu wandana gamana
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map 1

Map 1 – Click Map to Enlarge

 Map 2

Map 2 – Click Map to Enlarge

Kadurugoda ancient site

It was yet again a day with a not so appealing forecast but I just couldn’t stay back in my quarters so this time got together with few of my staff members who were on leave and decided to do a trishaw ride around Iginiyagala. We came to Namal oya junction and waited until Danushka arrived because he was our guide for the first two locations. Our first place of interest Kadurugoda is located at one of the most scenic places one can imagine off. To get to kadurugoda one needs to take the road towards Ambagahawella from Namal oya junction. After passing the newly built Kadurugoda temple the ancient site can be found surrounded by a paddy field. It is a 3km ride from Namal oya. The archaeology site is looked after by department of archeology and there is an ancient pagoda many ruins of buildings and a fallen statue. It seems very similar to ovagiriya in many aspects.

beautiful landscape

beautiful landscape

namal oya mountains

namal oya mountains

Kadurugoda peak

Kadurugoda peak

searching for breakfast

searching for breakfast

plenty of these guys

plenty of these guys

Kadurugoda ruins site surrounded by paddyfields

Kadurugoda ruins site surrounded by paddyfields

wonder if this is a yupa stone

wonder if this is a yupa stone

wonder what this was

wonder what this was

 plenty of ruins scattered

plenty of ruins scattered

a moon stone

a moon stone

another building

another building

a fallen statue

a fallen statue

pagoda at kadurugoda

pagoda at kadurugoda

drying up its wet wings

drying up its wet wings

seems like a changeable hawk eagle

seems like a changeable hawk eagle

Neella archeology site

Next place was Neella which is located close to Uhana on Namal oya Kahatagasyaya road. Nella is an ancient site located at the foot hills of Namal oya. If one wants to reach it there are two routes. One is via Uhana which is about 7km towards Kahatagasyaya. Otherwise one needs to take the Kahatagasyaya road from Namal oya and after passing Kahatagasyaya proceed 2 more kms. The archaeology site is located at a place called Vihara kandiya which is surrounded by plenty of streams. I must say this is another splendid place that one needs to visit. At this site there is a huge pagoda, many buildings in ruins, a broken statue, old lake, a cave with a drip ledge and vedda paintings. The nearby rock inscription is well carved on a rock cube and seems interesting. There is a civil defense post at this location to protect it from treasure hunters.

passing namal oya mountains at kahatagasyaya

passing namal oya mountains at kahatagasyaya

Primitive board of department of archaeology

Primitive board of department of archaeology

on the way to Neella

on the way to Neella

splendid path

splendid path

wow

wow

another beauty

another beauty

 vihara kandura streams

vihara kandura streams

a branch of sri maha bodhiya planted in no mans territory

a branch of sri maha bodhiya planted in no mans territory

towards Nella ruins site

towards Nella ruins site

remnants of a building

remnants of a building

steps with a moon stone

steps with a moon stone

treasure hunters have dug a 10 feet pit

treasure hunters have dug a 10 feet pit

another stream

another stream

a korawak stone

a korawak stone

pagoda at nella

pagoda at nella

ruins close to the pagoda

ruins close to the pagoda

nidan gala

nidan gala

rocks placed on the ancient dam

rocks placed on the ancient dam

creepers forming patterns

creepers forming patterns

more ruins

more ruins

steps towards the cave

steps towards the cave

more steps

more steps

nella cave

nella cave

bricks

bricks

a rock inscription

a rock inscription

vedda paintings at neella cave

vedda paintings at neella cave

more paintings

more paintings

and more

and more

close up

close up

broken statue

broken statue

Diviyagala Hermitage

After showing us around Namal oya, Danushka had to say good bye to us because of some family commitments. After finishing loitering around Namal oya we returned back to Inginiyagala and took the road which followed the right hand cannel that diverts water from Gal oya. This road goes through Padagoda and ends at Higurana. While we were passing Padagoda we came across the second Cyburn (a canal over another canal) of Iginiyagala area. The road was in very bad condition and the continuous drizzle made things worse somehow we arrived at Moragahapallama and took the road which begins near “Seevali” school. The Diviyagala hermitage is located on top of a rocky hill and one can find a huge rock pond with steps and an inscriptions. And further up there was a huge “Asanagaraya”, few “Chatra” stone suggesting that there was a pagoda in the vicinity once. Though there were few caves we couldn’t visit them due to bad weather but we did climb up to the top to enjoy some gloomy scenery. There was one unique pillar with an interesting carving of a female close to the “bo” tree at this hermitage.

Padagoda lake

Padagoda lake

Pallag oya flowing over right canal of gal oya google earth image

Pallag oya flowing over right canal of gal oya google earth image – Click Image to Enlarge

first time i came across this guy

first time i came across this guy

bo tree at diviyagala aranya senasanaya

bo tree at diviyagala aranya senasanaya

pillars at diviyagala

pillars at diviyagala

Note the carving on the pillar at diviyagala

Note the carving on the pillar at diviyagala

note the huge asanagaraya and chatra stones at diviyagala

note the huge asanagaraya and chatra stones at diviyagala

scattered ruins

scattered ruins

siri patul gala

siri patul gala

 view frm diviyagala moragahapallama

view frm diviyagala moragahapallama

higurana as seen from diviyagala

higurana as seen from diviyagala

an inscription

an inscription

ancient pond

ancient pond

an inscription near the pond

an inscription near the pond

steps towards civilization

steps towards civilization

steps leading out of the pond

steps leading out of the pond

drainage from the cannal of jayanthi lake

drainage from the cannal of jayanthi lake

Kethsirigama Mihindu Hermitage

From Moragahapallama we returned back on Padagoda road and took the Galkanda road via Koknahara. Again this road also was in very bad condition until we reached Koknahara and the road runs parallel to the waterway which diverts water from “Jayanthi lake”. Mihindu hermitage is located at the base of a mountain and is a site with many ruins. There are few drip ledge caves in the forest and only few monks live in these kuti. The ancient pagoda is seen like a mini mountain and close to it they have built a new pagoda with a fleet of ancient steps. There are plenty of pillars in the surrounding area suggesting that there were many buildings at one time and we did come across a statue too. Within the forest patch there are some remnants of the ancient “sakman maluwa”. We were offered afternoon “dane” from the temple which was like medicine to our tired soles.

newly built pagoda at mihindu hermitage

newly built pagoda at mihindu hermitage

ancient pagoda at Kethsirigama Mihidu hermitage

ancient pagoda at Kethsirigama Mihidu hermitage

guard stones

guard stones

ruins at Kethsirigama Mihidu hermitage

ruins at Kethsirigama Mihidu hermitage

ancient steps

ancient steps

 a statue

a statue

a cave with treasure

a cave with treasure

ancient sakman maluwa

ancient sakman maluwa

a monk in his kutiya

a monk in his kutiya

another drip ledge cave

another drip ledge cave

a kutiya close to the canal

a kutiya close to the canal

forest hermitage

forest hermitage

some one has taken treasure

some one has taken treasure

monoliths

monoliths

tired  staff

tired staff

Pannathgoda Raja Maha Viharaya

From Koknahara we rushed back towards Pallan oya and proceeded towards Inginiyagala. Just after passing the Pallan Oya Bridge there is a road on the left hand side which will lead towards the Pannathgoda temple which is located on hill top. There is an ancient pagoda few ponds remains of a “devalaya”, and few inscriptions in the surrounding area but the most fascinating finding was the granite monument of Sri lanka done during king Saddathissa’s ruling. This temple is believed to be done by king Saddathissa as most of the places we visited on this day; also one can easily enjoy the scenic view of jayanti lake from here. After thanking the head priest we returned back to Inginiyagala at around 4pm to end our one day adventure.

pagoda at Pannathgoda

pagoda at Pannathgoda

ancient steps at Pannathgoda

ancient steps at Pannathgoda

වී

වී

outer wal

outer wal

 rock pond at Pannathgoda

rock pond at Pannathgoda

more scenery

more scenery

view from Pannathgoda

view from Pannathgoda

another rock pond

another rock pond

lake of jayanthi

lake of jayanthi

the most interesting finding of day

the most interesting finding of day

and washed of inscription

and washed of inscription

 remnants of a devalaya

remnants of a devalaya

 

Lungs of the South – Kanneliya & Treasures of Galle

$
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Year and Month March, 2013 (24th to 25th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 3 (between 29-31 years of age)
Accommodation Kanneliya Forest Resort, Koralegama (091-5671867, 060-2906315). Highly recommended; Excellent food; Comfortable and clean rooms; Great views
Transport Public Transport
  • From Colombo to Galle – Train 6.10 am from Fort
  • Galle-Koggala and back by Bus
  • Galle-Udugama and back by Bus
  • Galle-Maharagama by Highway bus
Activities Wildlife, Photography, Waterfall Hunting
Weather Excellent - It rained heavily but didn’t interrupt our plans one bit
Route Colombo Fort -> Galle -> Rumassala -> Koggala -> Galle -> Udugama -> Galle -> Maharagama
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Train to Galle leaves Fort at 6.10 am and reaches by 08.00 am (only on Weekends; other days there’s one at 6.55 am reaches Galle by 9.26 am).
  • There’s no bus service to Rumassala from the Galle-Matara road. You either walk which we did or take a tuk-tuk (will charge around Rs. 200-300/-).
  • The Rumassla road is right in front of Holcim Cement Factory (former Ruhunu Cement) – It’s about 2-3 km to the Peach Pagoda and Jungle Beach.
  • Martin Wickremasinghe Folk Museum (in front of The Fortress Hotel) is open daily from 09.00 am to 05.00 pm (Ticket price 30/- each) – about 15 km from Galle.
  • Beware from Brokers when you go to Madol Duwa coz we were robbed in broad daylight. (Don’t panic, details given below).
  • Kanneliya Ticket counter opens at 08.00 am (Ticket prices 28/- each and additional 600/- to 800/- to the guide fees depending on the trail).
  • The distances given on the notice boards at the Forest are not accurate; most of the guides confirm this. So add 2-3 km given on the notice boards to calculate the actual distance. (It said 5.2km to Narangas Ella, but more than 7 km) – Similar experience at Sinharaja too.
  • It takes about 1.5-2 hrs to reach Udugama from Galle by bus (60/- each).
  • Alternative accommodation places: Kanneliya Mount Resort (0772-090457, 091-3095950) / Forester’s Rest (0773-909663 Sumith).
  • Ajith is a very knowledgeable and helpful guide @ Kanneliya. (0775-139526).
  • From Udugama to Kanneliya about 3-4 km (If you take the bus, try the Dellawa bus which goes past Neluwa; We took a tuk-tuk for Rs. 250/- to the hotel).
  • Galle Fort Maritime Archaeological Museum opens till 4.45 pm, but you have to buy ticket before 4.15 pm. (Tickets 50/- each).
  • Please don’t harm the nature; don’t write your feeling on trees, rocks and notice boards (Sample pic given); Don’t pluck trees or flowers and try to take plants with you.
  • Do carry plenty of water.
  • Leave only the foot prints.
Related Resources
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Once upon a time, I came across this very unusual name “Kanneliya Forest Reserve” and since then, I couldn’t stop myself being told over and over again, “must go see, must go see”…

Well, that mantra has reaped its benefits coz I managed to visit this beautiful lady on 24 & 25 March. By the time I write this report, my legs are screaming coz they are still cramped up by lots of walking. On the other hand, my soul is at a very peaceful and content stage, which I won’t trade for a million dollars.

I got my friends Lasantha, who had a change of heart first but managed to rejoin at the eleventh hour and Dimuthu to join me. So here goes another Sri’s fairytale and hope it, unlike many other fairytales, won’t put you to sleep.

Day 01

So we left Colombo Fort by 6.10 am train which is available only on weekends (other days, it’s at 6.55 am) and reached, after a very fast ride, Galle around 8.05 am (5 minutes late :-) ).

It was very difficult to carry our bags, so I wanted to leave it somewhere in Galle but my friends wouldn’t hear any of it. We then took a Galle-Matara bus and asked the conductor to drop us off at Rumassla Road. He completely forgot about it and dropped us instead about 2 km further up. (You have to get off at Holcim Cement Factory, former Ruhunu Cement)

I immediately got the jitters as I felt it might be a very bad sign. However, after lot of huffing, we got into a tuk-tuk which asked for 200/- (400/- right up to the Peace Pagoda, but I chose to walk from the main road) to take us up to the Road leading to Rumassala. We managed to leave our baggage with a very good show owner who’s selling Bulath Wita at the Rumassala bus stop.

There’s about 2-3 km up to the Peace Pagoda and world famous Buona Vista (pronounced Bona vista) Coral Reef (locally known as Jungle Beach). The whole Rumassal area is about 3 square km and the coral reef has about 60% live corals. It was heavily damaged in the 2004 Tsunami and they now have started a project to plant corals along the beach.

There’s a lot of talk on Rama-Ravana-Sita-Hanuman in Rumassala and it’s said to be a mythical mountain in Galle. I’ve put a pic of the legend in the picture story. However, according to Sir Arthur C. Clarke, this is formed as a result of an asteroid and he claims the nearby Unawatuna beach to be one of the 12 most popular beaches in the world.

The peace pagoda was a very soothing place, looking grand. You can see the Galle harbor and the fort clearly from there. Below the Pagoda, the road leads to the Jungle beach where lots of locals as well as foreigners come for snorkeling, coral-seeing and relaxing. We too had a walk around and saw many remains of buildings which must have been destroyed by the Tsunami.

We then met a few couples hanging around and one of them said that it’s really dangerous to hang around the cliff path as they believe every year few people lose their lives around that area. However, I felt It must’ve been a tailor-made big-fat lie to chase us away and get some privacy.

Along the path we came across a very tasty fruit called “Eraminiya” and hungrily munched. Afterwards we came back towards the peace pagoda and at a hotel called Hanumangira had some tea and bun. (after about 17 years I tasted the then very popular cream buns that come in pairs wrapped in polythene)

This is where you have to turn to Rumassala

This is where you have to turn to Rumassala

Rumassala Bay and Buona Vista Coral Reef

Rumassala Bay and Buona Vista Coral Reef

Peace Pagoda

Peace Pagoda

Birth of Lord Buddha depicted

Birth of Lord Buddha depicted

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Enlightenment

Enlightenment

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Preaching

Preaching

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Parinirvanaya

Parinirvanaya

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Ship anchored off the harbor

Ship anchored off the harbor

Majestically rising to the sky

Majestically rising to the sky

Jungle beach

Jungle beach

To the Jungle beach

To the Jungle beach

Monitoring our movements?

Monitoring our movements?

Lovely but deadly dangerous

Lovely but deadly dangerous

Glass-bottom boats at the Rumassala bay

Glass-bottom boats at the Rumassala bay

Visitors

Visitors

Main way of making a living

Main way of making a living

There’s a temple named “Sri Vevekaramaya” and the chief monk is Sasanathilaka Thero and we decided to visit it as well. The temple was such a beautiful place and in a very small piece of land, it has everything, nice Buddha statues, Hanuman Statue and a Bodhisathwa Statue as well. On a board, they had put up the legend of Rumassala which I managed to capture. (Given below)

The Rumassala Temple

The Rumassala Temple

Giant statue

Giant statue

Hanumantha

Hanumantha

Bodhisathwa Statue

Bodhisathwa Statue

It's said one picture is worth 1000 words, well this certainly is worth much more

It’s said one picture is worth 1000 words, well this certainly is worth much more – Click Image to Enlarge

Then on the way back to the main road, there was a board saying “Historical Burton Tower” and thought of giving it a go. To our amazement, there was no board or anything saying what it was so couldn’t find about it more. It’s just light house type tower about 80 feet high.

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Burton tower, but couldn't find much more

Burton tower, but couldn’t find much more

We came back to the main road, and got into a Matara bus and asked the conductor to drop us off at Martin Wickremasinghe folk museum. Having experienced the conductors’ loss of memory, I too was keeping an eye out for it. As expected, the conductor forgot all about it but for our luck, I spotted and managed to get off about 500m away. This is located right in front of the famous hotel “The Fortress”

Right in front the road to the museum

Right in front the road to the museum

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It’s open daily from 09.00 – 05.00 and a ticket is 30/- each. It really was another mesmerizing experience as Martin Wickremasinghe is among the greatest of all in our literature especially in the 20th century. Being able to visit his birth place and seeing the things he used in real life is something I would treasure for the rest of my life.

The complex has many highlights:

  1. The Folk museum which shows many important aspects of the rural life, especially the south along the coast.
  2. Martin Wickremasinghe’s house (Inside you can see the things he used, special occasions of his life, a pic of him receiving the M.B.E. medal from Queen Elizabeth II, and many more) and his Samadhi
  3. Remains of his grand uncle’s house
  4. Display of old vehicles such as carts, boats, etc.
  5. Book shop where they give 20% discount on all his books

Famous puppets of  Ambalangoda

Famous puppets of Ambalangoda

Village Kitchen, how many seen any of this in real life?

Village Kitchen, how many seen any of this in real life?

Things used in rural villages' houses

Things used in rural villages’ houses

26 Famous rainda designs

26 Famous rainda designs

Sewing machines

Sewing machines

Utility items

Utility items

Replica of a tank

Replica of a tank

Like to dress in one of these?

Like to dress in one of these?

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First in line

First in line

Familiar ones

Familiar ones

Elephant cart

Elephant cart

Bana cart

Bana cart

I'm sure most of you guys have seen one of these, it was there till early nineties

I’m sure most of you guys have seen one of these, it was there till early nineties

Giant boat

Giant boat

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

The master's house

The master’s house

Another worth 1000 words - Click Image to Enlarge

Another worth 1000 words – Click Image to Enlarge

Bed room

Bed room

The living room

The living room

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Things he used...

Things he used…

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Pencil drawing?

Pencil drawing?

Cartoon character

Cartoon character

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Any idea of the model and the brand?

Any idea of the model and the brand?

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If you haven't read this, well not too late, only 160/-

If you haven’t read this, well not too late, only 160/-

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Sekkuwa

Sekkuwa

It really is a must-see place and we left around 12.30pm to go see the famous Madol Duwa. I knew from the morning that something bad was going to happen and my gut feeling proved right. Along the main road towards Matara, we went about 800m and saw a notice saying “Madol Duwa” and felt very happy. As soon as we turned to that side, someone asked if we going to the Madol Duwa and for our sins, we said yes.

He then asked whether we want to go the island or take a tour around it too. We said a tour around would be nice and he asked for 1500/- and we felt (as we had no idea the distance and the time it takes) it was reasonable. We then had to walk towards the Koggala railway and beyond the bridge and near it lies the jetty. The boy asked one of the boatman to take us and asked to charge 1500/-.

We were surprised to see it was a very short distance to the island, about 1km, took us about 5mins and around the island we went in about 5 more minutes. Then we landed and the boatman simply asked us to walk around the island. There were numerous paths and we had no idea where we were going (just like in the story how Upali and Jinna were doing) and passed the same place a few times.

We then came to probably the other side of the island and I suddenly remembered the flame-ghost (Gini Avathare) of Madol duwa book. There was a nice cashew tree with cashew and Lasantha managed to pick one with the juicy flesh. It was after a long time I had one of them and we then managed to find the way back to the jetty. Madol Duwa has a well, a stone foundation of a former Sekkuwa, and remains of a structure.

Busy at work in Koggala Lagoon

Busy at work in Koggala Lagoon

Newly built Railway Bridg

Newly built Railway Bridg

Overlooking Koggala oya

Overlooking Koggala oya

Happy wonderers

Happy wonderers

Well in the island

Well in the island

Sekku gala

Sekku gala

From other side of the island

From other side of the island

Super model

Super model

Trying to walk around the island

Trying to walk around the island

We then asked if we are going any further but the boatman said it was the end of the journey. Would you believe it? However, we paid as agreed and he showed us a short cut to the main road and then only we realized that we were victims of a very bad scam going around. There was a board saying the “Tours in Madol Duwa and the Main road to the Madol Duwa” (pic given below). So the one we took was a very bad choice and paid heavily for it. I even saw a notice saying further up, passing the bridge it’s only 20/- to Madol Duwa.

So guys, if you ever go to Madol Duwa, go straight to the Jetty and check the prices directly from the boats.

 

Use this or there's another further up.... go right to the jetty and ask the prices.... Damn those brokers

Use this or there’s another further up…. go right to the jetty and ask the prices…. Damn those brokers

After that we came back to Galle around 2.30 pm and had lunch. Then took a Udugama bus from the stand and took us nearly 2 hours to reach Udugama which is only 33km from Galle. It was raining really hard by the time we reached Udugama and took a tuk-tuk to the Kanneliya Forest Resort (250/-) about 4km away.

The place was excellent, very spacious rooms, comfortable beds, very clean washrooms, and exceptional views of the Nannikiththa Ela which later joins the Gin Ganga. The food was delicious too.

We had a hearty meal and bunked down for the night.

Kanneliya Forest Resort - Well worth every penny spent

Kanneliya Forest Resort – Well worth every penny spent

View from our room

View from our room

 

The following morning when we got up, the sky was very gloomy and it was drizzling too. Gosh, I didn’t like it one bit and was mumbling to myself what we are to do. The view below our room was gorgeous as the river was flowing freely.

When we went to B’fast around 7.00 am I asked Wilbet, very helpful staff member, if it will continue to rain but he confidently said it’s gonna be ok in a little while. It really was a blessing and his prediction proved right at the end.

We walked up to the Kanneliya ticket office which is another 1 km away from the hotel and it was around 8.00am by then. There was only one group waiting to do the Kabbale Mountain trail which is the longest and most strenuous. However, we got Ajith, a very helpful guide in Kanneliya, and paid for the tickets which was 884/- for all three of us (28/- each and 800/- guide fees) for Narangas Ella trail.

Highlights of Kanneliya:

Do add a few extra kms to the given numbers as they certainly are more than what’s on the board.

We immediately set off and the angry clouds slowly started to dissipate. On our way we came across a Bodhilima very close to the Anagimala Ella. It was a female one, Ajith pointed the brown one is the female and the green one is the male. Both have very distinctive and colorful wattles.

Talking of wattles, when Ajith said the “Karamala” in Sinhala, I was trying to figure out the English word for it and immediately came up with the word “Chicken Flower” and how to match it to the Bodilima. However, I managed to get the correct word thanks to Google and online dictionary.

Back to the Bodilima, when they are angry they open their mouths and given half a chance will bite you. We then came across a “Pinum Katussa” that is a very small fellow and jumps around, thus the name.

Then we reached the Anagimala Ella which is rich with lots of water due to the rains in the last few days. It’s created by Nannikiththa Ela and later joins the Gin Ganga which meets the Indian Ocean at Ginthota.

Ajith told us there’s a tragic story behind the name Anagimala Ella. There was a Tamil family with two children, boy and a girl. The girl’s name was Anagi, and her brother had apparently got her pregnant. To keep it a secret, he had taken Anagi to the fall and pushed her to the fall killing her. So the name came about, Anagi mala Ella (The fall where Anagi died), Anagimala Ella.

Natural pool below our room

Natural pool below our room

Kabbale Kanda seen along the way

Kabbale Kanda seen along the way

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Don't trust the distances - Click Image to Enlarge

Don’t trust the distances – Click Image to Enlarge

Forest Department bungalow (can accommodate 43 people

Forest Department bungalow (can accommodate 43 people

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Nice hut

Nice hut

True enough

True enough

Getting down to the cave complex

Getting down to the cave complex

Inside the cave

Inside the cave

The cave floor, can you spot the shrimp? In the middle

The cave floor, can you spot the shrimp? In the middle

Our trusted guide, Ajith in the middle

Our trusted guide, Ajith in the middle

Near Anagimala falls where Ajith told us the story behind the name

Near Anagimala falls where Ajith told us the story behind the name

The natural and eco-friendly ceiling made of Beru leaves

The natural and eco-friendly ceiling made of Beru leaves

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The female one

The female one

Anagimala Ella is nearby

Anagimala Ella is nearby

Pinum Katussa

Pinum Katussa

First glimpse

First glimpse

Wide angle

Wide angle

Nannikiththa Ela

Nannikiththa Ela

Part of the fall

Part of the fall

Another female showing her colourful wattles

Another female showing her colourful wattles (My term – Chicken Flower :-) )

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Kanneliya doesn’t have the “Kaluwara” tree; instead it has a tree called “Kalu Mediriya” which is very similar. There are a few more very important trees in Kanneliya.

  1. Yakahalu & Thaniya Dun Tree – They make famous “Dummala” (which is being used at Thovil and all other ceremonies) using the liquid that they get from the trunk of the trees.
  2. Mandora – they use the roots of this tree to put into the pots of Thelijja to prevent them turning into Raa.
  3. Katamada – Wal Durian, very similar to Durian with a prickly skin and eaten by Monkeys and Giant Squirrels.
  4. Kiri Hambiliya – A tree used in Ayurvedic treatments which has reddish leaves
  5. Thambotu Creepers – Same as famous Ve Wal, found in Sinharaja. They make lots of things using these.
  6. Dorana – Very remarkable tree. Villagers cut a hole in the trunk of the tree using an axe or a sharp knife about 6 inches deep and burn it. After about 2 days, there’s oil filled in the hole. They collect it and dry it in the sun and make valuable Dorana Oil which is used in polishing statues and paintings. One bottle in Galle is around 1500/- but in Colombo around 3000/-.

We even saw a Trot (100m X 100m area) under research. The forest department measures all the plants and trees inside this area and keep records of them for future use.

We even came across a very rarely seen fight between a Binkunda and a leech that was covered in sand and I guess it finally was killed by the Binkunda.

Plywood corporation had destroyed many land mass and thousands of trees in Kanneliya. According to Ajith, they torched the quarters of the officers inside the forest and some army vehicles and in 1989; making plywood and chopping trees were stopped as a result.

We then went along the path towards Maliga Dola. Up to this the road is very good and very few leeches to bother you. However, you have to cross this to go to the Narangas Ella, another 1.5km from there. that’s a very tiny foot path infested with leeches and I practically ran all the way to the fall coz I had very bad experience in Sinharaja when we did Lion’s Rock trails (in the board it said 14km but more than good 20km). You can read more about that trip here

The giant puss creeper

The giant puss creeper

Wal Durian a.ka. “Katamada”

Wal Durian a.ka. “Katamada”

Eaten by monkeys

Eaten by monkeys

Kiri Hambiliya tree

Kiri Hambiliya tree

Very rare seen, a Leech vs Binkunda

Very rare seen, a Leech vs Binkunda

Giant Nawada tree trail

Giant Nawada tree trail

Thambotu creepers

Thambotu creepers

Unknown friend

Unknown friend

Nosieest of all, "Rahaiiya

Nosieest of all, “Rahaiiya

Torched plywood corporation officers' quarters in 1989

Torched plywood corporation officers’ quarters in 1989

Familiar in Sinharaja too

Familiar in Sinharaja too

Mushrooms at large

Mushrooms at large

Maliga dola, end of the decent-size road

Maliga dola, end of the decent-size road

More beautiful ones

More beautiful ones

Having to cross Maliga dola

Having to cross Maliga dola

Me being carried by my friend, VIP treatment

Me being carried by my friend, VIP treatment

Another unknown fellow

Another unknown fellow

Narangas Ella wasn’t so rich with water, however there was enough and trying to get to the top is not advisable as it’s extremely dangerous and slipper rocks all along. Below there was a nice pond and when Dimuthu and Lasantha got into it to wash their feet, there were lots of fish mainly Thalkossa with a reddish tail (slightly different from Bulath Hapaya) and even some prawns decided to feast on their feet.

We then headed back to the hotel around 12.30 pm and had a cool dip in the natural pool below our rooms. After a hearty lunch, we left for Galle coz I was planning to visit the Galle fort too. As soon as we got into the bus, it started pouring with rain and inside the bus there were a few streams running across. It must be the most depilated bus of Udugama depot as every socket and most of the windows leaked and we almost had to sit at the edges of our seats.

Narangas Ella

Narangas Ella

Upper part, up-close

Upper part, up-close

Tiny one coming down through the forest

Tiny one coming down through the forest

Fish therapy

Fish therapy

Tasting the feast

Tasting the feast

Prawn is on the prowl

Prawn is on the prowl

Thalkossa

Thalkossa

Thaniya dun, the white is the liquid which later made in to "Dummala"

Thaniya dun, the white is the liquid which later made in to “Dummala”

Here's the male

Here’s the male

Saying good-bye

Saying good-bye

Wilbet, friendly and helpful staff member at the hotel

Wilbet, friendly and helpful staff member at the hotel

 

I was praying for a bit of sun to go see the Dutch fort in Galle and they were immediately answered as it suddenly stopped and the lord Sun appeared around Makuluwa junction. Reach Galle around 3.45pm and went to the Galle fort immediately.

We took the left from the entrance and about 100m up, you can see the national museum of Galle but to our utter disappointment, it was closed. After that, there was the famous Dutch church and it too was closed. Having our hopes shattered, I asked Lasantha to check if the Maritime Archaeological museum was open. For our relief it was and we entered. Ticket price is 50/- each and you have to buy them before 4.15pm and open till 4.45pm.

It was declared open on 04 March 2010. Exhibits of marine artifacts found in underwater explorations are show cased in the Museum. There are maps, naval craft, ropes, earthenware, beer mugs, smoking pipes, barrels, vast amount of articles including artillery guns and sailor shoes. Ship wrecks in the sea off the Southern coast is where these artifacts were recovered from, some of which are nearly 800 years old.

This was built on a former Dutch warehouse which was heavily damaged in the 2004 Tsunami flooding.

Then we went along the outer wall of the fort, we could see the peace pagoda of Rumassala in the distance and reached the Light house. Kenneth De Kretser was the engineer of Government Factory that built this in 1938.

Afterwards, we went further along and came across a funny scene which I captured on my camera. There was a foreigner reading a book on a pillar and a dog was lying around looking at him as if listening to his every word.

We saw the dungeons like prison which is about 30 feet deep. All of a sudden, it started lightening and when we looked at the sea, what we saw brought us the images of “Day after Tomorrow” movie. The whole sky was pitch black and the rain was coming at a ferocious way and we almost ran right up to the clock tower and then to the bus stop, but not before me getting some few shots of the Galle Int. Cricket Stadium and the clock tower.

Entrance of the Dutch fort

Entrance of the Dutch fort

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Unfortunately this was closed (National Museum, Galle)

Unfortunately this was closed (National Museum, Galle)

19th Century Dutch Church

19th Century Dutch Church

Bell tower, might have belonged to the Dutch Church

Bell tower, might have belonged to the Dutch Church

Landscapes of old buildings

Landscapes of old buildings

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Former Dutch warehouse turned Museum

Former Dutch warehouse turned Museum

Pics of various incidents

Pics of various incidents

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Got loads of Vases like these

Got loads of Vases like these

Wedhi paintings and symbols used instead of words depicted here

Wedhi paintings and symbols used instead of words depicted here

Not real people

Not real people

Just like an original

Just like an original

Dutch Seal

Dutch Seal

Another Dutch Seal

Another Dutch Seal

Replica of a ship

Replica of a ship

Jewellery of various kinds

Jewellery of various kinds

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More vases

More vases

Division of SL according to Dutch rulers

Division of SL according to Dutch rulers

She's sewing

She’s sewing

Important couple??? I guess so

Important couple??? I guess so

Grand with the black background

Grand with the black background

More replicas

More replicas

These are what the Portugese and Dutch came here for; The world famous SL spices

These are what the Portugese and Dutch came here for; The world famous SL spices

A real canon

A real canon

Replica of a war ship, you can see the holes where they used to fire from

Replica of a war ship, you can see the holes where they used to fire from

Howitzer

Howitzer

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Original seal of the warehouse still exists

Original seal of the warehouse still exists

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The light house

The light house

Peace Pagoda and Rumassala seen from the fort

Peace Pagoda and Rumassala seen from the fort

The light house plaque

The light house plaque – Click Image to Enlarge

The Indian Hut

The Indian Hut

Along the wall

Along the wall

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People enjoying, look at the crystal clear water

People enjoying, look at the crystal clear water

Dark clouds lurking in the distance

Dark clouds lurking in the distance

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Sun is fighting for us to keep the rain away

Sun is fighting for us to keep the rain away

The dungeons where the prisoners were kept

The dungeons where the prisoners were kept

More dark clouds surrounding us

More dark clouds surrounding us

I guess the clock is working fine

I guess the clock is working fine

Running from the rain, just enough time to capture the ground

Running from the rain, just enough time to capture the ground

You can see the rain chasing us, towards the right of the picture

You can see the rain chasing us, towards the right of the picture

Lasantha is running for all he's worth

Lasantha is running for all he’s worth

Running, but had to take this too...

Running, but had to take this too…

The moment we entered the bus stand, it started raining Cats and Dogs, and soon intensified to Bulls and Goats too.

It really was another wonderful trip and I managed to see everything I had planned….

So that’s the story of Sri de Galle….. Hope you guys enjoyed my fairy tale.

A trip to Ampara and Monaragala

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Year and Month March, 2013 (28th to 30th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 8 (between 20-65 years of age)
Accommodation
  • Day 1: night at a friend’s place at Ampara
  • Day 2: night at Government Circuit Bungalow at Monaragala
Transport Van
Activities Visiting historic places
Weather Sunny, very hot
Route
  • Colombo -> Kandy -> Mahiyanganaya -> Dambana -> Meegaswatta -> Maha Oya -> Arantalawa -> Uhana -> Ampara
  • Ampara -> Siyambalanduwa -> Monaragala
  • Monragala -> Buttala -> Wellawaya -> Tanamalwila -> Ratnapura -> Colombo
Related Resources
Author Anjale
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Day 1
We started the journey on 28th early morning at around 3.00 am. We reached Mahiyanganaya at around 11.00 am. Next, we visited was Maha Oya hot water springs where we had a bath.

Mahiyangana Stupa

Mahiyangana Stupa

Senanayake Samudra

Senanayake Samudra

We reached Ampara around 1.00 pm. We had to pick our two friends from Dayata Kirula exhibition stall. Therefore, we spent 1 or 2 hours visiting the exhibition. Next, 8 of us went to the friend’s place where we were spending the night. It was extremely very difficult to book a hotel or a government circuit bungalow as it was the Dayata Kirula exhibition period.

While on the way to the friend’s house, we stopped for a while near Senanayake Samudra. It was around 5.00 pm when we reached the house. Since, everyone was tired due to long journey and the hot weather, we decided to have a rest even though we had ample time to travel more.

Day 2

We started our journey for the day around 6.00 am and we prepared and took the breakfast with us. The first place we were planning to visit was Deegawapee stupa.

We reached there around 7.00 am.

There were interesting paintings in the shrine rooms which describes the history of the Deedawapee Stupa.

Deedawapee Stupa

Deedawapee Stupa

Shrine room

Shrine room

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

A picture which describes how a monk fallen from the stupa while the stupa is being constructed, was saved due to the power of Dhajagga Soothra

A picture which describes how a monk fallen from the stupa while the stupa is being constructed, was saved due to the power of Dhajagga Soothra – Click Image to Enlarge

On our way to Deegawapeeya, we saw crocodiles having sun bath on a tiny island on a small lake. As we stopped our vehicle to get some photographs of them, they slowly slipped away into the water.

Next, we visited Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa. You have to travel in the same road towards Ampara a small distance and turn to another road to reach this place. This stupa is located on a small rock.

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

Deegawapee Pariwara Stupa

View from the summit of the rock

View from the summit of the rock

View from the summit of the rock

View from the summit of the rock

3 different stages of Sugar cane cultivation

3 different stages of Sugar cane cultivation

After having our breakfast, we set off to Buduruwagala. Again, it was a temple on a small rock. Since, these days the climate was very sunny and very hot, it’s difficult to walk with bare feet even it was just around 9.00 am. So, we felt that if we could reached there little earlier, it would have being better.

Buduruwagala rock

Buduruwagala rock

Tortise in the pond

Tortise in the pond

Eagle trying to attack fish in the little pond on the rock

Eagle trying to attack fish in the little pond on the rock

Skeleton of a tusker

Skeleton of a tusker

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

After that, we set off to Monaragala.

It was around 2.00 pm when reached Monaragala. Lunch was ready at the circuit bungalow and we were so tired as the weather is very, very hot. We gobbled the food in no time.

After having a small break, at around 4.00 pm we decided to visit Maligawila and Dematamal Viharaya.

First we visited Maligawila. There are two important places at Maligawila, Lord Budda Statue and Statue of Avalokeswara Boddhi Sathva.

Maligavila bear archaeological sites

Maligavila bear archaeological sites – Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Lord Budda Statue

Lord Budda Statue

Statue of Avalokeswara Boddhi Sathva

Statue of Avalokeswara Boddhi Sathva

Dambegoda Pillar Inscrption

Dambegoda Pillar Inscrption

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Next, we visited Dematamal Viharaya. The name Dematamal Viharaya derives from ‘Dutu Mal Viharaya’. The legend says, after a small battle with King Dutugamunu, his youger brother Prince Tissa has seek protection from Sanga by arriving this temple. The chief Sanga, has asked the prince to hide under the bed.

Dematamal Viharaya

Dematamal Viharaya

King Dutugamunu has suspected that his brother is in temple and has come to meet Sanga. When he inquired the monk about his brother, the monk has replied, Tissa Adehi Natha- Tissa is not on the bed.

The king has understood that this means, even though brother is not on bed, he might be under the bed. While worshipping the monk, he has bend, looked at under the bed and verified that he is there.

The king then ordered his men to guard outside the temple premises. The chief monk understanding that, Tissa won’t be ever able to leave temple premises in this condition, requested four monks to carry Tissa, pretending to carry an expired body of a monk.

King understanding it is Tissa, not a dead body of a monk, said ‘Tissa, Sangun Pita Noyaw”. Anyway, later the dispute between the two brothers was resolved by the guidance from Sanga.

Day 3

The last day of the trip, we left the circuit sharp at 6.00 am. First place we wanted to visit was Yudaganawa.

Yuduganawa Stupa

Yuduganawa Stupa

Chulangani Stupa

Chulangani Stupa

Yudaganawa is another place related with King Dutugamunu.

It is said that, Prince Gamunu went to hide in Digamadulla after a dispute with his father, King Kavanthissa. The dispute was the old king’s reluctance to fight with King Elara. After several years, King Kavanthissa expired and Prince Tissa came to throne.

Prince Gamunu received this news and requested his brother to give him the tusker Kandula and Mother Queen which are essential to be the inheritance of the throne. Since, Prince Tissa rejected the request; Prince Gamunu has no other option but to fight with his brother.

In earlier battles Tissa won against Gamunu as he was powerful due to his large royal army. Therefore, Gamunu had to be tricky to win the fight. In a battle at Yudaganawa, Prince Gamunu on his horse-back jumped across Tusker Kandula. The tusker feeling ashamed of the person who is handling him, threw Tissa down. Thus, Prince Gamunu came to throne.

It is also said that King Dutugamunu started the war against Elara from this place.

Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala

A hole in the rock with a shape of a flame

A hole in the rock with a shape of a flame

Ruins in Buduruwagala area

Ruins in Buduruwagala area

After that, we set off to Buduruwagala. The way to budurugawala was very beautiful. The path set across a beautiful village, along paddy fields and next a small jungle with lakes blossomed with red lilies.

It’s a really beautiful sight and we as travelers need to keep in mind not to harm its beauty.

Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

.

.

Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

Way to Buduruwagala Ruins

On the way, we saw Udawalawe tank and I could capture few photos.

We reached Ratnapura at around 12.00 pm. We decided to have lunch near Saman Deewalaya.

 

Udawalawe Tank and we can see a waterfall in a very far mountain range

Udawalawe Tank and we can see a waterfall in a very far mountain range

Saman Dewalaya

Saman Dewalaya

Sankapala Vihalaya

Sankapala Vihalaya

On the way someone suggested us to visit another temple, Sankapala Vihalaya where one of King Dutugamunu’s giant men was later meditated as a monk.

A ape family - son, mum and dad @ the temple

A ape family – son, mum and dad @ the temple

We reached Colombo around 3.00 pm. I forget to mention, on 28th night, one of crew who was at Ampara, had seen this moon ring (220 moon halo) which is called ‘Chadra Mandala’ in Sinhala. This a very rare occasion as I know, since full moon and humidity of atmosphere is required for this phenomenon to occur

moon ring – ‘chandra Mandalaya’

moon ring – ‘chandra Mandalaya’

Chariot Path of Ravana & Sitha on top of Piduruthalagala range and James Taylor’s Loolecondera!

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Year and Month April, 2013
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 3 [Guides: Christopher Nimal 0771632584, Ilayraja 052 5610246]
Accommodation Camping
Transport Public transport, Trishaw
Activities History, Camping, Hiking and scenery
Weather A mixture of Sunny and overcast weather conditions
Route Maharagama -> Colombo -> Peradeniya -> Pussellawa -> Frotofot estate old hospital -> Chariot path -> Mool oya estate -> Hewaheta -> Loolecondera -> Delthota -> Galaha -> Kandy -> Colombo[Download Google Earth Trail Map of the Chariot Path]
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Wear attire suiting cold climates
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (1L per person) and food products.
  • Start as early as possible
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Beware of wild animals
  • Need a guide only to get to the trail head
  • Ask directions from locals
  • No leeches
  • Avoid overcast conditions(better to go there during Nuwara Eliya season December to May)
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
In red trail ends, green chariot path, blue loolecandura estate

In red trail ends, green chariot path, blue loolecandura estate – Click Image to Enlarge

It was dawn of Sinhala & Tamil New Year and I wanted to make it a memorable one. All started one year back after hiking Yahangala which was linked with Ravana epic. Yahangala prompted me to go through few Ravana documentaries and important places related to the legend; though I’m not a blind believer I think he was one of the greatest kings in Sri Lanka. While going through some articles I came across a site called chariot path which urged me to pay a visit someday because of the unusual location of it. There was very little information about chariot path and the only way to find out was to go in search of it! This place is being visited by Indians regularly so then why not us been Sri Lankans should not!

3 of us arrived at Gampola on a sunny day trying to figure out a way to get to Frotoft estate so after talking with few locals we were told to go towards Pussellawa. From Pussellawa we gott in to a crowded “Pettarasi” bus which ascended through the delta estate and kept winding around tea estates producing some of stunning scenery which we couldn’t capture due to many reasons. After a bumpy bus ride through the upper Ramboda estates we reached the old Frotoft hospital. We were told that there is a clear trail to the said site but finding the trail head was the main problem. Fortunately we met Nimal at Frotoft estate line houses and he agreed to show us the way. We were extremely lucky to come across this guy at that moment because it was already 1pm. After walking about 1.5km through the scenic tea estates of Frotoft we reached the trail head at the boarder of the estate.

now abandoned old frotoff hospital

now abandoned old frotoff hospital

kotmale reservoir as seen to Frotoft

kotmale reservoir as seen to Frotoft

on the way towards the trail head

on the way towards the trail head

getting misty

getting misty

this young stream later forms devathura oya

this young stream later forms devathura oya

ladscaped perfectly

ladscaped perfectly

a lonely tree

a lonely tree

this is what we are going to climb

this is what we are going to climb

There was a clear path almost all the way and even if it was bit covered at some places, it was not so difficult to keep in track. The initial stretch was almost flat and ran through the bushes and within no time it was a mild continuous ascend. This foot path is used by locals to cross over to the tea estate on Hewaheta side so it will not get completely covered for any reason. Even If you have a look in google earth the trail can be easily identified. The last bit was the toughest since we had to climb in a zig zag manner continuously uphill until we reached the top of the Piduruthalagala range. At this point we tipped of our helpful guide and walked through the mountain range with ease. The walk was through a classical mountainous forest just like walking in Horton plains and in no time we reached our destination which was a large plain area middle of no ware.

entering the forest

entering the forest

it continues through the nelu

it continues through the nelu

Frotof watta line houses where we started the hike

Frotof watta line houses where we started the hike

its gonna rain soon

its gonna rain soon

Sitha flowers(Ashoka)(Maha rath mal)

Sitha flowers(Ashoka)(Maha rath mal)

Bowitiya decorating the sideways

Bowitiya decorating the sideways

spookiness at its best

spookiness at its best

guess the direction of the wind

guess the direction of the wind

colourful mountainous forest tops

colourful mountainous forest tops

It took us about 1.5hours to reach the plains from the trail head and after we got there our exhaustion simply disappeared. It is a bare area with a huge grass land surrounded by short Nelu trees and mountainous forest. The chariot path is a road like path where the “Dandu monara” has been landed and it is said that King Ravana brought Sita devi to this place to show the beauty of his kingdom while flying from Lankapura to Ashoka Vatika!

Quote

The summit of the mountain next to the mountain range overlooking Frotoft Estate in Pussallawa is the place where Lord Hanuman first set his foot on mainland Lanka. This mountain known as Pawala Malai is visible from this mountain range. These hills stand tall in-between King Ravana’s capital city and Ashoka Vatika.

The barren land top of the mountain range is believed to be the route in which King Ravana took Sitadevi from his capital city Lankapura to Ashoka Vatika, which was a paradise on earth. Till date no vegetation grows on this passage except grass. King Ravana is believed to have taken this passage on top of these hills to show Sitadevi the beauty of his kingdom.

The Sita tear pond is found en route by the chariot route, is believed to have been formed by the tears of Sitadevi and has not dried up since, even during severe droughts when the adjoining rivers dry up.

In this area there are many large trees whose bright red blooms add colour to the scenery. These flowers are called Sita flowers. The peculiarity of these flowers is the configuration of the petal’s, stamen and pistil’s, which resemble a human figure carrying a bow, and is said to represent Lord Rama. These flowers are unique only to this area in the whole of Sri Lanka

 the chariot path where Ravana took Sita to show the beauty of his kingdom

the chariot path where Ravana took Sita to show the beauty of his kingdom

towards hewaheta

towards hewaheta

beautiful layers

beautiful layers

one of those birds we met

one of those birds we met

experiencing a different world

experiencing a different world

The area was gloomy and there were signs of a rain within no time but that didn’t stop us from exploring around. It is truly a paradise and we experienced it at the fullest only on the next day. There was a clear water stream close to Sithas tear pond. There was evidence of recent illegal mining in the area and the other disheartening sighting was all the biscuit wrapping papers left over by visitors. Just before we pitched our tent we came to the edge of the mountain range which was at an altitude of 2000m to enjoy the panoramic view towards Kotmale and upper Ramboda regions. We found a suitable grass patch to camp on and when we were done with our tent it started to rain at around 4pm which lasted until 7pm. During this period drops of rain water started to seep through the zippers and made our life much more difficult! After the rain seized we did mop up our tent and had some bread and butter as dinner before we fell in to an interrupted sleeping process. Neither of us tried to get out of the tent to go in search of Samber because of the misty freezing climate on that day.

mist cleared off a bit

mist cleared off a bit

where we climbed from

where we climbed from

the drop

the drop

we camped here

we camped here

the plains

the plains

Sita's tear pond(i didnt taste and see if it was salty)

Sita’s tear pond(i didnt taste and see if it was salty)

without flowers

without flowers

here comes the mist and rain

here comes the mist and rain

tree tops

tree tops

Next day at around 4am we woke up and wanted to have a look outside, once we opened the cover of our tent we saw something we never expected to see. It was Adams peak with Hatton- Nallathanni trail lit up and that was simply an awesome unexpected sighting for us. We were pumped up and waited impatiently until the sun rise. We were also expecting some stunning scenery because the sky was already cleared off, so at around 5.45am we jumped out of the tent and proceeded along the path towards Rikillagaskada side where the sun seemed to be rising from. And it finally appeared behind an isolated cloud which lightened up the plains with its shiny orange rays to form some magical scenery. At this point mountain peaks at Rikillagaskada , Knuckles range and Mool oya estate started to become clearly visible.

dawn of day 2

dawn of day 2

the view of sri pada from chariot path note the hatton route lit up

the view of sri pada from chariot path note the hatton route lit up

Dawn over the chariot path

Dawn over the chariot path

towards rikillagaskada

towards rikillagaskada

towards knuckles

towards knuckles

the sun is covered

the sun is covered

mool oya estate

mool oya estate

grandfathers beard

grandfathers beard

here she comes

here she comes

breathtaking...!

breathtaking…!

colourfull indeed

colourfull indeed

magical path

magical path

sun was shining on my tent

sun was shining on my tent

 scenery at its best

scenery at its best

We rushed back to our camp site and proceeded towards the opposite edge of the mountain to witness the beauty of Kotmale valley. It was totally cleared off and only a small patch of mist covering Nawalapitiya town far away was seen. It is obvious why Sitha devi was brought here by king Ravana! From one end to the other one can easily spot Piduruthalagala summit, Kikiliyamana, One tree hill, Pundalu oya, Great western, Totupola, Adams peak at the center, Galaboda range , Kabaragala of dolosbage, Peacock hills, Kotmale reservoir and New Kotmale town, Frotoft estate, Peacock hills, Alagalla, Gampola and Ambuluwawa. This is one of those places which I will re visit in near future for obvious reasons!

the shadow of the cameraman

the shadow of the cameraman

golden rays

golden rays

drops of water

drops of water

more scenery

more scenery

the three shadows

the three shadows

perfect  framing

perfect framing

walking to the edge from the tent along the chariot path of Ravana

walking to the edge from the tent along the chariot path of Ravana

towards pundalu oya and great western

towards pundalu oya and great western

Kikiliyamana range with its towers also one three hill towers can be seen

Kikiliyamana range with its towers also one three hill towers can be seen

summit of Sri Lanka

summit of Sri Lanka

wake up kotmale

wake up kotmale

sun is shining over frotoft

sun is shining over frotoft

kotmale reservoir and its dam

kotmale reservoir and its dam

Piduruthalagala summit and kikiliyamana

Piduruthalagala summit and kikiliyamana

towards peacock hills

towards peacock hills

gampola kanda and ambuluwawa

gampola kanda and ambuluwawa

not much of water these days

not much of water these days

new city of kotmale

new city of kotmale

peacock hills and dolosbage

peacock hills and dolosbage

top of peacock hills

top of peacock hills

valley of kotmale

valley of kotmale

the holy peak

the holy peak

sri pada zoomed

sri pada zoomed

Ramboda area

Ramboda area

kabaragala of dolosbage range

kabaragala of dolosbage range

 the tea estates of upper ramboda

the tea estates of upper ramboda

beauty of the wild

beauty of the wild

living in harmony

living in harmony

Panorama of kotmale valley

Panorama of kotmale valley

team spirit

team spirit

nawalapitiya covered with mist

nawalapitiya covered with mist

Though we were unlucky to spot some samber around there were plenty of signs suggesting that there is a healthy population around. Also we did here a barking deer running screaming through the bushes. Only in the morning did we notice that the stunning view of Adams peak is seen in line with the chariot path symbolizing the importance of this place and the folklore may be true though we don’t have pure evidence. They have also found Ravana Guli(nutritious Aggala prepared by Ravana for Sita to keep her a live) around Frotoft estate, according to some articles I read these were thrown around the area by Sitha who refused to have any.(check this video  to get more info on Seetha guli) at around 8am we started descending towards our next target which was loolecondura estate. According to our guide the path leads towards Loolecondura but later we figured out that he was not correct at all.

clear sky

clear sky

grass at the plains getting sun burnt

grass at the plains getting sun burnt

adms peak is directly seen from the chariot path

adms peak is directly seen from the chariot path

the three webs

the three webs

good bye is only for now, i will be back

good bye is only for now, i will be back

Descend was very steep and seemed never ending plus the loose quartz were not helpful at all. The scenery towards the estate which we thought as Loolecondera was simply amazing also the mist was kissing the tea estates reminding us how beautiful our mother land is. We rushed down to the estate within one hour but after getting to the estate we faced an awkward situation while trying to get directions towards famous James Taylor bungalow and seat because neither of the estate workers new anything about it. When we showed them few photographs even they didn’t recognize the place so we finally asked the name of the estate and we were told that we were in Mool oya estate and loolecandura was two estates away. So we had to hire a trishaw and head towards Loolecondera. Rather than descending to Hewahata and taking the main road the trishaw guy took us through a tea estate which was totally worth it because the ride produced some panoramic views towards Rikillagaskada. After a rough ride we came towards Loolecondera James taylor museum but unfortunately it had been moved towards Pussellawa. From there onwards we proceeded towards the entrance point which begins near a road side shrine and continued uphill along a poorly maintained estate road. I wonder why they can’t maintain it despite getting good revenue from the visitors.

the steep descent

the steep descent

wow the misty mountains

wow the misty mountains

mool oya our destination

mool oya our destination

refilling at a water way

refilling at a water way

finally back to civilization

finally back to civilization

oh i love these flowers

oh i love these flowers

welcome to mool oya estate

welcome to mool oya estate

all of them were busy

all of them were busy

a yellow eared bul bul

a yellow eared bul bul

petals every where

petals every where

After about 1.5km there was a junction and if one took the 1.1km road to the left it will lead to the first ever tea patch planted in 1867 but we decided not to go that way due to lack of time. Further 3.5km along the winding road through one of the most beautiful tea estates in Sri Lanka one will reach another junction where the road to James Taylor’s log cabin and Seat divides. When you wonder around the tea estate you will note how James Taylor has blended with nature and tried to protect the forest as possible while carrying out his tea plantation. Some places are fully shaded with huge trees and other tea patches concealed with mountainous natural forest. A 100m walk will take one towards the remains of James Taylors log cabin and only the chimney and few scattered rocks can be seen at this present day. The location was simply one of the best places on earth to build a cabin. Near by the cabin the well he used can be found and from there onwards there is a foot path which will lead up towards Dotelagala rock.

somewhere close to james taylor museum at loolecandeara

somewhere close to james taylor museum at loolecandeara

the museum which is closed

the museum which is closed

 the shrine close to the entrance from the main road

the shrine close to the entrance from the main road

name boards

name boards

yes you have to pay to go on a broken road

yes you have to pay to go on a broken road

sub mountanious forest blended with tea

sub mountanious forest blended with tea

lush green

lush green

the 3way junction

the 3way junction – Click Image to Enlarge

on the way scenery

on the way scenery

trees everywhere

trees everywhere

well trimmed and tea bushes grown along contor lines

well trimmed and tea bushes grown along contor lines

 view towards Piduruthalagala range

view towards Piduruthalagala range

well maintained tea estate having many summer huts to have a rest

well maintained tea estate having many summer huts to have a rest

we went to the cabin and pettiyagama estate

we went to the cabin and pettiyagama estate

peak at galaha very tempting

peak at galaha very tempting

Dotelegala may be on another day!

Dotelegala may be on another day!

the well

the well

the well is not in good shape

the well is not in good shape

remains of the log cabin

remains of the log cabin

few words....

few words…. – Click Image to Enlarge

 ode to james taylor

ode to james taylor – Click Image to Enlarge

only the chimney remains

only the chimney remains

beautiful garden view

beautiful garden view

We returned back to the junction and proceeded towards James taylors seat and summer hut also there is a pond close to the summer hut. James Taylors seat is really one of those relaxing places you would love to sit on for hours and hours. I just could imagine how this guy would have spent his evenings smoking a pipe and enjoying a cup of tea with leamon overlooking Knuckles mountain range. The panoramic view towards Galaha , Delthota, Rikillagaskada was unforgettable also we noted Hunnasgiri peak, Knuckles / Kalupahana area, parts of Victoria reservoir, a peak at Galaha, Rikillagaskada peak and plenty of paddy fields of Hewaheta region. It was time for us to return back at least before the Nonagathaya so we had to say good bye to James Taylor and the lovely memories of our journey and rush towards Colombo to prepare for the New Year!

 james taylors summer hut

james taylors summer hut

meaningful words

meaningful words

James taylor seat

James taylor seat

endless view

endless view

view from the seat

view from the seat

towards rikillagaskada

towards rikillagaskada

Panorama of hewaheta- galaha taken from james taylor seat

Panorama of hewaheta- galaha taken from james taylor seat

kaputagala rikillagaskada

kaputagala rikillagaskada

note hunnasgiri peak and knuckles mountains

note hunnasgiri peak and knuckles mountains

wow what a view james taylor had

wow what a view james taylor had

paddy fields of hewaheta

paddy fields of hewaheta

Delthota

Delthota

the road which leads to the seat

the road which leads to the seat

it sums up our day

it sums up our day

Mr James Taylor(taken from internet)

Mr James Taylor(taken from internet)

Quote

The first commercial planting of tea was on Loolecondera Estate, some 18 miles southeast of Kandy, No.7 field is where the first tea plants were planted.

Mr James Taylor of Loolecondera – now acknowledged as the Father of the Tea Industry – was quite unassuming man who arrived in Ceylon towards the end of 1851 when he was but 17 years old and took up duties as Assistant Superintendent on Lolecondera. He remained on loolecondera for his entire planting career of 40 years and only left Ceylon on one occasion in 1874, when he went to Darjeeling in India to absorb as much tea lore as he could. He was painstaking in the extreme and by reading and experimentation took every opportunity to increase his knowledge of the tea-bush and its fragrant product. In a letter written by James Taylor he starts by recalling that how in his China phase a Cachar (North Indian) planter, Mr Noble, showed him how to pluck, wither and roll tea with a little leaf growing on those old bushes near his bungalow. All the rolling was done by hand and Noble also told him about fermenting and panning and the rest of the process.

Taylor made a further batch under the direction of the old Assam Planter, W.J.Jenkin, whom he met earlier experimenting on Condegalla for the Ceylon Company. A sample of this batch, together with seven samples Taylor had made before, was sent to Weinholt in Calcutta, India, in 1872. Taylor says with justified pride that while the Jenkins-controlled sample was valued a little higher than his own single-handed effort, all but two of these were ‘reported on as being better than the Indian teas then sold in Calcutta’. Up to this time Taylor explains that his entire tea making had been with ‘arrangements in the bungalow verandah’. Many famous Coffee Planters learned the art of tea growing and manufacture from him.

Random visit at places in ancient Seethawaka kingdom

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Year and Month April, 2013 (8th to 26th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 02/03
Accommodation N/A
Transport Bus, Three-wheeler and by foot
Activities Archeology, waterfalls and Photography
Weather Morning weather was excellent, At the end of the days had thundershowers
Route
  • Day 1: Colombo -> Warakapola -> Madeniya -> Dorawaka cave -> Pethangoda -> Wangedi Molgas Ella -> Back to Galapitamada -> Manikkadawara -> Thunthota -> Holombuwa -> Dadigama -> Nelundeniya -> Colombo
  • Day 2: Colombo -> Awissawella -> Thalduwa -> Ruwanwalla -> Hakurugala -> Karawanalla -> Liyangahamula -> Manella waterfall -> Return in the same route to Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Better start the journey in the early morning to visit all these places. The archaeology museum of Dadigam will be closed at 4pm. Therefore you have to be there at least 1hour before.
  • Always introduce yourself to the priests of the ancient temples and explain your purpose of visiting. Otherwise they may misunderstand.
  • Always clarify your way from locals.
  • Better negotiate three wheel charges before get into the three-wheeler.
  • Public transport system is not much good in these roads. Therefore better to have your own vehicle. If you have your own vehicle, can be covered all these places in one and half day.
  • Thanks a lot for Ravinu and his friends who came with me to Manella fall.
Related Resources
  1. Siri Laka Asi Dutu Than by S.P.S.Weerasingha
  2. Sunadara Sabaragamuwa by Tourist ministry of Sabaragamuwa
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

During this journey I needed to visit at places in Warakapola-Karawanaella, Galapitamada-Nelundeniya and Ruwanwella-Galigamuwa roads. Ancient Seethawaka kingdom was situated over this area. Although I had a tight schedule before the journey, the evening shower ruined some of my plans. Somehow I was able to visit at following places.

Day-1

  1. Dorawaka pre historical cave (දොරවක ලෙන)
  2. Pethangoda garden (පෙතන්ගොඩ උයන) and Wangedi-Molgas Ella (වන්ගෙඩි මෝල්ගස් ඇල්ල)
  3. Manikkadawara ancient Tampiti temple (මැණික්කඩවර ටැම්පිටි විහාරය) and remaining of Portuguese castle
  4. Holombuwa Sthreepura cave temple (හොලොම්බුව ස්ත්රීකපුර විහාරය)
  5. Dadigama Kotawehera (දැදිගම කොට වෙහෙර), archeology museum and Dadigama temple

Day-2

  1. Brandi Kovil (බ්රැදන්ඩි කෝවිල)
  2. Tomb of King Rajasingha (රාජසිoහ සොහොන)
  3. Ancient Britain Castle of Ruwanwella
  4. Palngamuwa suspension bridge (පාලම්ගමුව සoගිලි පාලම) and Hakurugala cave temple (හකුරුගල රජමහා විහාරය)
  5. Manella waterfall (මානැල්ල)

Places of visit- Black star-Dorawaka cave, Purple star-Pethangoda garden, Red star-Manikkadawara temple, Brown star-Holombuwa temple, Green star-Dadigama. Orange star-Britain castle, Yellow star-Palangamuwa Bridge, Blue star-Manella fall

Places of visit – Black star = Dorawaka cave, Purple star = Pethangoda garden, Red star = Manikkadawara temple, Brown star = Holombuwa temple, Green star = Dadigama. Orange star = Britain castle, Yellow star = Palangamuwa Bridge, Blue star = Manella fall – Click Map to Enlarge

Places of visit - Black star = Brandi kovil, Red star = Rajasingha tomb

Places of visit – Black star = Brandi kovil, Red star = Rajasingha tomb – Click Image to Enlarge

Dorawaka pre historical cave

Importance of this cave is it has about 30 sketch drawings belonging to pre historical era.

You have to get Madeniya (මාදෙනිය) bus from Warakapola town. (Alternative bus is Warakapola-Ruwanwella bus and has to get a three-wheeler from the junction where Madeniya road starts). If you tell the conductor or driver they will drop you in front of the road towards the cave. Actually this road starts in front of a boutique. Then you have to walk about 2km, initially it is a concrete road and later it becomes a footpath way within a rubber estate. Vehicles can be driven to a certain extent.

It likes an inverted 'V' shape. 82 feet long, 55feet  high.

It likes an inverted ‘V’ shape. 82 feet long, 55feet high.

Drawings were numbered by the archeology department

Drawings were numbered by the archeology department

Brahmin letters and symbols belong to pre-historical period

Brahmin letters and symbols belong to pre-historical period

Belongs to B.C 8-10

Belongs to B.C 8-10

Sketch of a Tusker

Sketch of a Tusker

If you need a closer view of letters and drawings, have to jump over this fence

If you need a closer view of letters and drawings, have to jump over this fence

Newly built Kuti

Newly built Kuti

Following the cave we walked back to the main road and got the bus towards Pethangoda. (First have to go to the junction where Madeniya road meets Karawanalla road and then Karawanalla/Ruwanwella bus).

Pethangoda garden

You have to get your turn to left side on the Warakapola-Karawanalla road at Pethangoda to watch Pethangoda Bamboo bushes.

The ancient road from Seethawaka kingdom to Central kingdom was situated close to this garden and people were used to rest at this garden on their way.

Following the war with King Wimaladarmasooriya, King I Rajasingha (Seethawaka Rajasingha) came to get a rest here on his way back to the Kingdom. His leg has been pierced by a bamboo thorn and it was enough to kill the King.

Nowadays you can see only two bamboo bushes here. The lake in front of the garden is now covered with plants. Ancient garden was large about 42arches.

There are other stories also behind the death of King Rajasingha. While the king was walking in the garden he was bitten by a cobra and king was unconsciousness due to snake venom. Then he was brought to the Seethawaka kingdom by a boat. Near the Anguruwalla, king’s feet became black. (Gangrenous.) Further down the river, king wanted to step down the boat and he became limp once he stepped on the bank. That area is called Karawanalla. (Korauna walla->Karawanalla)

කොරවුන+ වැල්ල-> කරවනැල්ල

The place where king’s feet became black now called Anguruwalla.

අගුරු වුන+වැල්ල->අගුරු වැල්ල

Warning

Warning – Click Image to Enlarge

Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Two bamboo bushes

Two bamboo bushes

Bamboo thorns

Bamboo thorns

Ancient lake now covered with plants

Ancient lake now covered with plants

Then we preceded our journey towards a nearby waterfall called Wangedi-Molgas Ella. (Actually it is a small water stream). This name is due to a piece of rock likes a “Molgaha” and bathing pool likes a “Wangedi”. You have to walk about 2km from Pethangoda garden towards this waterfall.

So called Molgaha

So called Molgaha

Bathing pool-Wangediya

Bathing pool-Wangediya

After having a bath at this water stream we came back to Pethangoda and got a bus towards Galapitamada. The time was around 2pm and we had to satisfy from bread for our lunch at Galapitamada town.

Then we took the Kegalle bus from Galapitamada and got down at Manikkadawara junction (less buses in this road compared to Warakapola-Ruwanwella road).The archeology board shows the direction towards the temple and distance was 2km from Manikkadawara junction.

Manikkadawara Temple

  • It has three importance.
  • Ancient Tampiti Temple-Belongs to Kandyan era.
  • Paintings of this Tampiti temple. One of them shows a Sinhala king is eating by spoon and fork.
  • The Bo tree. This is the one mention in famous poetry called Thisara sandeshaya. (තිසර සන්දේශය)

Tampiti Temple.-now under renovation. Therefore unable to watch paintings

Tampiti Temple.-now under renovation. Therefore unable to watch paintings

Temple is on 14 stone pillars

Temple is on 14 stone pillars

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

When you cross the road from the temple, you can visit at remaining of Old Portuguese castle. Nowadays you can see star shaped basement only.

Star shaped castle

Star shaped castle

Then we came to Thunthota (තුoතොට) junction and got a three-wheeler to Holombuwa to visit Sthreepura temple.

Holombuwa Sthreepura cave temple.

This is one of an interesting place I have visited.

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Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Nice arch over the temple

Nice arch over the temple

The door with paintings

The door with paintings

Small pagoda within the image house

Small pagoda within the image house

Roof paintings

Roof paintings

Perennial pond

Perennial pond

Then we walked about 3km towards the Dadigama (Road on the other side of the temple connects to Dadigama.) It was scenic in the evening.

Another evening to Dadigama

Another evening to Dadigama

Dadigama has three importance.

  • Kotawehera
  • Archeology museum
  • Dadigama ancient temple

Kotawehera

This was built by King I Parakramabahu (1153-1186) at his birth town Dadigama. This pagoda doesn’t have a Pinnacle. Only has three basal rings and dome.

Height is 47feet and top is 26000square feet large

Height is 47feet and top is 26000square feet large

There is a small stupa inside this large stupa

There is a small stupa inside this large stupa

Number of antiques were excavated from this archeology site and now kept at Archeology museum of Dadigama.

The brass elephant oil lamps and gold plated Samadhi Buddha statue can’t be seen there. They are kept at National museum Colombo.

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As it was around 5pm we couldn’t visit at archeology museum at Dadigama. (Archeology museum opens from 8am to 4pm) Then we came back to Colombo.

Day 2

Second day I started my journey from Awissawella and preceded from there towards Ruwanella. Before Thalduwa junction, the archeology board can be seen in right hand side towards the Brandy kovil.

Brandy kovil

The great king Rajasingha (The last king who has brought the Sri Lanka to one canopy in 16th century.) has built this kovil under instructions of “Aretha keewendu Perumal”(අරිඨ්ඨ කී වෙන්ඩු පෙරුමාල්). This was built as seven stories building to worship devil Kala or god Shiva. Rajasingha I has killed his father and later worried about it. The person Aretha Keewndu came from India and instructed the king the only way to come out of the sin is to build a Kovil by diverting the Seethawaka River.

Later Portuguese have destroyed it.

Now we can only observe the basement of this building. This land is boarded by Seethawaka River from three sides.

Brandy Kovil with it’s entrance

Brandy Kovil with it’s entrance

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Following Brandy kovil, we walked towards Thalduwa junction. Our next place of visit was tomb of Rajasingha I. you have to go in Gurugalla road about 2km to reach there.

Tomb of King Rajasingha I

Remaining of the tomb

Remaining of the tomb

Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Then we came back to Thalduwa junction and got the bus to Ruwanwalla.

Ancient Britain Castle of Ruwanwella

This is situated in the right middle of the Ruwanwella town. Nowadays Ruwanwalla police is situated in the castle. I first spoke to the receptionist of the Police and she was kind enough to show remaining of the castle after getting permission.

Entrance of the castle

Entrance of the castle

The year is 1817

The year is 1817

The wall

The wall

This part of the building is also belonging to old castle

This part of the building is also belonging to old castle

Due to historical values of the castle, police can’t do new constructions here. Therefore they have planned to shift the police to somewhere else.

Palangamuwa suspension bridge

You have to walk towards the Ruwanwella ground to visit at suspension bridge. This was built few years ago it is 555feet long and considered as the longest suspension bridge of Sri Lanka.

Longest suspension bridge of Sri Lanka

Longest suspension bridge of Sri Lanka

The Kelani River meets Gurugoda oya

The Kelani River meets Gurugoda oya

This is their bread and butter

This is their bread and butter

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We crossed the bridge and got a three-wheeler to the nearby cave temple called Hakurugala temple.

Hakurugala cave temple

This is considered as a creation of King Rajasingha I. On the way to Hakurugala temple, you can see another rock called “Biso Panna Gala”. බිසෝ පැන්න ගල

Before go to the war, one of the King has told to his seven queens, if he win the war a white flag would be waved otherwise a black flag would be seen. Although he won the war, the person who waved the flag showed the wrong one. Seven queens realized the king has lost the war and suicide by jumping from this rock. Now it is called as Biso Panna Gala.

Biso Panna Gala

Biso Panna Gala

The rock where the cave temple is situated is contact with the ground by only limited area. But the nature has kept this rock like that for a longtime without rolling down.

Hakurugala cave temple

Hakurugala cave temple

Note this rock touches the ground only by limited area. This is the side view

Note this rock touches the ground only by limited area. This is the side view

In some areas you can see the other side

In some areas you can see the other side

Not like other cave temples. Other side of the rock is also a cave. Therefore you can walk around the rock

Not like other cave temples. Other side of the rock is also a cave. Therefore you can walk around the rock

The water flows down from Hakurugala is having high density

The water flows down from Hakurugala is having high density

Image house is under construction

Image house is under construction

Drip ledge

Drip ledge

The person who worked at temple was kind enough to tell all these information as the priest was not at temple at that time. You can have a panorama view from the top of the rock but we didn’t try to climb it.

Manella waterfall

To reach Manella waterfall you have to take Kegalle bus from Ruwanwella and get down at Liyangahamula.(ලියන්ගහ මුල) From there you have to cross the bridge and walk towards Patti pelpita(පට්ටි පැල්පිට)about 2-3km. This bridge was built few years ago and villagers used the ferry to cross Gurugoda oya (ගුරුගොඩ ඔය) before that. If you come from Warakapola, there is a direct bus towards Weragala (වේරගල) to reach Manella fall.

Newly built bridge over the Gurugoda Oya

Newly built bridge over the Gurugoda Oya

Gurugoda Oya flows. It is a branch of Kelani River

Gurugoda Oya flows. It is a branch of Kelani River

Main road and foot pathway towards Manaella. It is not difficult to find the waterfall

Main road and foot pathway towards Manaella. It is not difficult to find the waterfall

Maha Manella (මහා මානැල්ල) waterfall. 20m height. Villagers believe the God Manella stays here and named this waterfall by his name

Maha Manella (මහා මානැල්ල) waterfall. 20m height. Villagers believe the God Manella stays here and named this waterfall by his name

This waterfall has two parts as Maha Manella and Kuda Manella. ( කුඩා මානැල්ල)

This waterfall has two parts as Maha Manella and Kuda Manella. ( කුඩා මානැල්ල)

Kuda Manalla. 6m height

Kuda Manalla. 6m height

Going through bamboo bushes to climb the waterfall

Going through bamboo bushes to climb the waterfall

Puhuwala ela flows to make Manella fall

Puhuwala ela flows to make Manella fall

Friends who came to visit at waterfall

Friends who came to visit at waterfall

After having a bath at Kuda Manella we finished the day. There are some more places belong to Seethawaka kingdom to be visited. Will see later

Thanks for reading

 


Quick visit to Olagangala & Kanugolla ancient hermitages

$
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Year and Month April, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew One (Guides: two monks from the hermitage)
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public transport
Activities Hiking, scenery, archeology & spirituality
Weather Sunny
Route Monaragala -> Bibila -> Ridimaliyadda -> Uraniya -> Andaulpotha -> Olagangala -> Ridimaliyadda -> 8th mile post -> Bibila -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (1L per person) and food products.
  • Avoid climbing up when its noon
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Beware of wild animals like serpents
  • Ask direction from the monks (at Olagangala a little monk will show you around if requested by the head priest)
  • Inform relevant personnel at these monasteries.
  • Avoid overcast conditions
  • Behave accordingly
Related Resources  External Link - වන මැද සැගවුනු ඔලංගල ආරණ්‍ය සේනාසනය
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map of Olagangala

Map of Olagangala – Click Map to Enlarge

Map of Kanugolla

Map of Kanugolla – Click Map to Enlarge

Whenever I take my camera with me it will drive me to somewhere interesting and this was one of those days. Since I had some official work on a Saturday which I managed to finish within 2 hours, decision was taken to pay a quick visit to Olagangala(at Mahiyangana). Working in a remote area where plenty of archaeological sites could be found is one of those benefits I cherish. I have seen a name board previously somewhere around 15th mile post on Bibila – Mahiyangana road and was thinking of it visiting this hermitage called Olagangala someday. The provincial tourist board of Uva has done a splendid job by putting up boards all around the province aiding random travelers to notice these places and visit them. And I have been one of those guys :-)

After getting down at the name board I had to walk for about 2km along a calm gravel road shaded by huge dry zone trees until I met a lake just before the hermitage. The hermitage of Olagangala had few newly built buildings and it seemed to be visited by many worshipers and roamed by notorious monkeys :-) . After meeting a head priest and explaining my intentions he was kind enough to let two little monks to show me around since I was all alone. So we started climbing along an uphill path which began close to the “sthupa”. Though the climb was not tough at all (there were rock steps) the extreme heat made things bit difficult for me. The two monks took me to the main cave which once had 21 partitioned “kuti” and the marks on the cave roof justifies the fact. There was along inscription mentioning that it belongs to 3rd king Shiva and it is supposed to be belonging to 2/3 B.C.

starting point at 15th mile post

starting point at 15th mile post

the board seems like 1000 years old

the board seems like 1000 years old

the road towards Olagangala

the road towards Olagangala

Olagangala

Olagangala

Kiriweleddagoda lake

Kiriweleddagoda lake

they were mischief's

they were mischief’s

the foot path

the foot path

the monks who guided me

the monks who guided me

first and main cave with 21 kuti

first and main cave with 21 kuti

the inscription

the inscription – Click Image to Enlarge

statue in the cave

statue in the cave

cave view

cave view

evidence of kuti

evidence of kuti

the huge cave

the huge cave

Next we continued uphill until we reached the top of the rock where a vandalized modified “sthupa” could be found. The view from the top is simply great in the sense one can appreciate the mountain range with the famous 18 bends, part of Knuckles range, Sorabora lake, Mapakada lake, Kokagala of Pad’iyathalawa, mountains of Maduru oya and Ulhitiya. We were also lucky enough to have a glimpse of the koth kerella” of Mahiyangana “sthupa” too. After having a good look around we started descending along another path which led us towards the second cave with an inscription saying that it belonged to “Washa thero” and donated by king Shiva. The other end of the cave had a “kutiya” made out of rocks and currently it was not in use. Not so far away there is another “kutiya” with a Budhdha statue where currently a monk meditates but at that particular moment he was not in the vicinity. Within 10 minutes we reached the temple premises from a totally different path. It’s better to ask directions precisely because there are few foot paths around. Also having a little monk to show you around will be a great aid. After getting to the base I was treated with a hot cup of tea, as always monks are kind hearted and will offer you something if they have and I was pleased to have that cup of tea since I was so hungry. After having a short conversation I decided to head back towards the main road though my soul wanted to stay there for few days.

off we go

off we go

view from the top

view from the top

view towards maduru oya and padiyathalawa

view towards maduru oya and padiyathalawa

towards ulhitiya

towards ulhitiya

dambarawa lake

dambarawa lake

diyawana oya and sorabora

diyawana oya and sorabora

kokagala of Padiyathalawa

kokagala of Padiyathalawa

more scenery, couldnt take my eyes off

more scenery, couldnt take my eyes off

end of the central hills (18 wanguwa)

end of the central hills (18 wanguwa)

Panorama from olagangala

Panorama from olagangala

vandalized

vandalized

they have scribbled on the sthupa too

they have scribbled on the sthupa too

sakman maluwa

sakman maluwa

2nd cave with inscription

2nd cave with inscription

part of the cave

part of the cave

its inscription

its inscription

rocks placed together

rocks placed together

steps on the rock

steps on the rock

modified kutiya

modified kutiya

resembling lord budhdhas dushkara kriya process

resembling lord budhdhas dushkara kriya process

down we go

down we go

Next place of interest was not in my days plan and it was all because of a notice board put up by the Uva tourist board. I had to head back towards Ridimaliyadda and I got down at 8th mile post close to a 3way junction where there was an uphill road. It was only 1km from the main road towards Kanugolla temple but it was a 60 degree climb along a tarred road which was heated up to the extreme. Once you get to the temple you will not find anything fascinating but there is a huge drip ledge cave in the forest behind the “sthupa”. There is a clear path which will take you towards a well cemented fleet of steps leading towards the main cave complex. This huge cave had been recently renovated. Also there were two small rooms in it and one was been redesigning as an image house. There were some scattered bricks to be seen around the corner belonging to past and let to be decayed.

next attraction

next attraction

fleet of steps

fleet of steps

first view of the cave

first view of the cave

 repaired recently

repaired recently

 view of the main compartment

view of the main compartment

the two rooms

the two rooms

framed

framed

colours were changed a bit

colours were changed a bit

preserved wall

preserved wall

double drip ledges

double drip ledges

 vandalized by treasure hunters

vandalized by treasure hunters

another kutiya

another kutiya

a drip ledge

a drip ledge

Later I decided to get to the top of the cave to find the interesting rock pond encircled by “bo” trees and to do so I had to go around the cave a bit and find the foot path. On top of the rock one can enjoy the unique view towards the hill tops of Elamanna mini worlds end. It’s like looking up from the bottom of the worlds end. After hanging around bit on the slanted rock I descended back towards the temple and inquired about the history of the place and as usual no one knew anything about it. Since I was extremely hungry and panting in thirst had to rush back to the main road to catch a bus towards Bibila where I had a late lunch before departing towards Monaragala. This was one of those days where I went to work and ended up loitering around. Also here are some interesting places close to Mahiyangana which I have visited previously (view Trip Report – Ancient Paradise – Mahiyanganaya) and out of them Naghadeepa RMV is located between Olagangala and Kanugolla on Bibila road.

the pond with bo trees on the summit

the pond with bo trees on the summit

madulsima worlds end

madulsima worlds end

panorama towards bibila

panorama towards bibila

used for meditation

used for meditation

owards dehigala and elamanna

owards dehigala and elamanna

wow

wow

must go there someday

must go there someday

view towards bibila

view towards bibila

far away mountains of medagama and kotabowa

far away mountains of medagama and kotabowa

plenty of paddy

plenty of paddy

 perfect frame

perfect frame

Thanks for reading

 

Herbal Paradise Dolukanda (600m)

$
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0
Year and Month April, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 5 (Ashan, Harinda, Anupama, Dinusha and Guide: Kumarasekara mama of Hunupola 037-5769504)
Accommodation N/A
Transport 3 bikes
Activities Hiking, Archeology & scenery
Weather A mixture of Sunny and overcast weather conditions
Route Colombo -> Nittambuwa -> Kurunegala -> 10th mile post on Hiripitiya road -> Hunupola -> Dolukanda -> Kurunegala -> Wariyapola -> Chilaw

Download Google Earth Trail Map

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (2L per person) and food products.
  • Start as early as possible because the rock will heat up within no time.
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Beware of wild boars, serpents and insects like wasp
  • There are few main paths to climb up and neither of those can be tackled alone. Also there are plenty of foot paths on the top
  • Need a guide.
  • Avoid overcast conditions (thundering)
  • Climbing from unknown areas increases the chance of trap gun injuries.

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Anupama from Potuhera

Author Ashan & HARINDA
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
green=ambalangala red=maligatenna blue=ponds purple=weheragala black=cave orange=rassa muhuna

Green = ambalangala, Red = maligatenna, Blue = ponds, Purple = weheragala, Black = cave, Orange = rassa muhuna – Click Map to Enlarge

Download Google Earth Trail Map

According to Folklore During the war between Ravana and Rama, both Rama and Lakshman were hit by powerful arrows to fall unconscious and to bring them back to life Hanuman was instructed to fetch lifesaving herbs from Himalayas. Hanuman went to the Himalayas, rooted part of the hill and brought it as he was not able to identify the lifesaving herbs. Parts from the hill fell on five places in Sri Lanka, Rumasala, Dolukanda in Hiripitiya, Ritigala, Thalladi in Mannar and Kachchativu in the north. Archeologically the mountain range has received some importance because of the well-known Arankele monastery been located at the base of it. Regarding the geometry it’s about 2km in length and 0.5km in width with a vast intermediate zone forest reserve on top of it. First time I came across this mountain range was when I visited Wellagala at Wariyapola and few months back while we were on top of Yakdessagala I noted this range for the second time. And the temptation was exclaiming to uncontrollable levels since then. Conquering unique mountain peaks has been my passion and day by day my list has been growing and growing with occasional tick offs. This time Anupama was the man who bought me the solution; he had already climbed up 3 times but was generous enough to join me this time too. Other than Anupama and his friend Dinusha my friend Harinda also joined me in this adventure. Harinda and my self-arrived at Kurunegala at around 7am by bike and bought some bread and dhal for lunch and together with Anupama we went towards Hunupola on Hiripitiya road where we met Dinusha and our guide Kumarasekara.

We started climbing from an abandoned rock quarry where huge square rocks cut by machines could be found. According to locals some Indian guys have done treasure hunting in large scale with heavy machinery. Next we came across few abandoned “kuti” which were built few years back when Dolukanda was a very famous place of worship for Sri Lankans. The initial stretch was through a relatively flat area but within no time we were starting to ascend uphill. The undergrowth was not much but since the area had received some showers on the previous few days it was enough to make things bit slippery. Suddenly the climb got steeper and more pit stops were a must and our guide Mr Kumarasekara was staring at us because we were crawling at a snail pace compared to him! On the way we came across few medicinal plants which is the most unique feature of this forestry and Harinda managed to root off few accidentally :-) :-) . After about 1hour and 45 minutes of climbing we came to the base of Ambalan gala and after tackling the last rock we were on top of it with a smile on our tired faces

gloomy morning at dolukanda

gloomy morning at dolukanda

treasure hunting done by indians in large scale(according to locals)

treasure hunting done by indians in large scale(according to locals)

entering the forest

entering the forest

abandoned sakman maluwa

abandoned sakman maluwa

off we go

off we go

may kollo nam ada ena patak naha

may kollo nam ada ena patak naha

 try and un tie it

try and un tie it

harinda plucking huge trees

harinda plucking huge trees

coconut!

coconut!

then it got steeper

then it got steeper

leading the way

leading the way

finally on top of ambalam gala

finally on top of ambalam gala

Ambalan gala is a bare rock located on the edge of the mountain and at a center location. There was a Buddhist flag post on top of it waving in proudly signifying the importance of this place. At this location one can enjoy a 180 degree view towards Wariyapola and Kurunegala but since the cloudy and misty nature on that morning we couldn’t appreciate much of the landmarks. Some landmarks we noted were Alagalla, Athgala, Mawathagama peak, Anda gala, Kuruminiyagala, Yakdessagala range, plenty of paddy fields, Dolukanda temple at the base, Wariyapola, Hiripitiya side, new Deduru oya reservoir and few lakes. We spent about 30 minutes on top of the rock enjoying the stunning scenery before we decided to enter the huge forest patch to explore around.

it was gloomy towards kurunegala

it was gloomy towards kurunegala

dolukanda temple and its pond at the base

dolukanda temple and its pond at the base

raising the fallen flag

raising the fallen flag

kurunegala region

kurunegala region

paddy and coconut together

paddy and coconut together

Yakdessagala range

Yakdessagala range

wow

wow

towards wariyapola

towards wariyapola

expecting rain

expecting rain

started clearing off a bit

started clearing off a bit

time for a panorama

time for a panorama

wonder what is this

wonder what is this

ambalan gala

ambalan gala

ideal place for a team pic

ideal place for a team pic

Though we thought it was already done and we could return early Kumarasekara mama and Anupama listed out some interesting areas worth visiting and from here on it was a never ending walking session on the top of the 2km long mountain range. We got in to the forest which was very shady and cool and within no time reached Maligathenna which might have been an ancient castle according to the locals. There were plenty of fallen pillars covered with moss and been Camouflaged with the greenery while few pillars were still standing tall like tree barks. Also there were rock walls here and there creating platforms and borders indicating that this was once a prosperous kingdom of a king. We also came across a huge “katarama” on a rock used to divert water from one place to another. This archaeological site had gone through the devastating illegal excavation process just like other locations in the island.

in search of maligatenna

in search of maligatenna

Dummala

Dummala

fallen pillars of maligatenna

fallen pillars of maligatenna

treasure hunters have done their part

treasure hunters have done their part

no this is not a well

no this is not a well

more pillars

more pillars

drainage system

drainage system

a rock wall

a rock wall

remains from a different era

remains from a different era

After exploring the ruins we set foot towards the other end of the range an on the way we came across a very rare “Wanaraja”plant which has a medicinal importance. There were other plants with medicinal value showed by Kumarasekara but I’m unable to recall any. Been so rich with medicinal plants Dolukanda might have some connection with Hanuma’s story just like Ritigala and Hakgala. Next we reached the famous rock ponds called Kalu diya pokuna, Dunukei pokuna and etc these are said to be found full even during droughts. This was an ideal place for us to have a rest under the shade and have a sip of jeevani to replace the lost minerals. Next we came across Watekei pokuna which was covered with plenty of Wetakei bushes hence the name.

life on life

life on life

barks were decorated

barks were decorated

more mushrooms

more mushrooms

Wanaraja

Wanaraja

my favourite

my favourite

Kalu diya pokuna

Kalu diya pokuna

reflection

reflection

Kasi pethi (Panam pethi)

Kasi pethi (Panam pethi)

wetakei pokuna

wetakei pokuna

On the way to Weheragala and not so far away from it we came across the trail used by villagers of Doluwa linking up with the main trail. By the way Wheragala got its name because of the huge ancient sthupa located on it and was vandalized by treasure hunters as expected. Weheragala been on the opposite side of the rock produces a different view compared to Ambalan gala and there is a very nice view point close to it where one can enjoy again a 180 degree panoramic outlook towards Ritigala, Arankele, Kibulwana reservoir, Dolukanda lake Ambokka and Mathale areas. This point seems to be the highest place and the drop towards the base of the rock was too scary to have a look even.

demarcated path

demarcated path

ancient pagoda at weheragala

ancient pagoda at weheragala

 gloomy scenery from weheragala

gloomy scenery from weheragala

kibulwana reservoir

kibulwana reservoir

Hiripitiya town

Hiripitiya town

doluwa side

doluwa side

Pano towards arankele

Pano towards arankele

next observation point

next observation point

dolukanda reservoir

dolukanda reservoir

wow

wow

mondanocks of wayamba

mondanocks of wayamba

phew the drop (this is the highest point)

phew the drop (this is the highest point)

Ritigala and Galgiriya can be seen

Ritigala and Galgiriya can be seen

towards Rassa muhuna

towards Rassa muhuna

We continued along the edge of the mountain through the forest cover and came to our next pit stop which is the Hulang Kapolla and its beautiful cave. This is a very dangerous but yet fascinating place and at some months a monk resides in this “kutiya”. There was a bed used by the monk and few saucepans used by visitors who spent the night in this non drip ledged cave. We decided to have our afternoon meal which was Bread and dhal while enjoying the scenery towards Arankele from the cave. This cave also was not spared by visitors who were muttish enough to scribble their names on the rock.

hulang kapolla

hulang kapolla

the cave which a monk used

the cave which a monk used

view from the cave

view from the cave

vandalized

vandalized

the view from our lunch table

the view from our lunch table

the rock looks like pasted

the rock looks like pasted

ambokka got cleared off a bit

ambokka got cleared off a bit

Rassa muhuna

Rassa muhuna

ambokka peaks through the gap

ambokka peaks through the gap

Next we wanted to get to the last view point which is called “Rassa muhuna” because of its appearance like a devils face. It could be appreciated properly from Hiripitiya area according to the locals but we had to satisfy our selves with a different view. En route we came across another cave where a monk once meditated keeping dead human corpuses. To get on top of the Rassa muhuna we had to crawl along a bark of a tree and it was totally worth it because we enjoyed a good 270 degree view and at that moment the sky also had decided to clear of a bit to produce some stunning scenery towards Kala oya side. Galgiriya kanda and Ritigala were seen far away while Arankele was at the base of the rock. After enjoying some breathtaking scenery we decided to return back and for that we used a different route.

seems like some one has roasted some meat here

seems like some one has roasted some meat here

climbing along a fallen tree

climbing along a fallen tree

on top of rassa muhuna

on top of rassa muhuna

gala pita gala

gala pita gala

the sky cleared off

the sky cleared off

arankele

arankele

Yakdessagala again appeared to our visual fields

Yakdessagala again appeared to our visual fields

towards kala wewa side

towards kala wewa side

ambokka

ambokka

very tempting

very tempting

Ritigala side

Ritigala side

i was on top of that peak few months ago

i was on top of that peak few months ago

wow again

wow again

pano towards wariyapola

pano towards wariyapola

pano towards arankele

pano towards arankele

After getting to the opposite side of the rock we continued along the rocky area known as Kalu gala and came across an area covered with Bowitiya bushes and it was like Horton plains on top of Dolukanda for us. Finally we reached Ambalan gala where we rested a bit before starting to descend.

tackling kalugala

tackling kalugala

dolukanda bowitiya plains

dolukanda bowitiya plains

on the way scenery

on the way scenery

treasure hunting continues

treasure hunting continues

the dry forest in the center of the mountain

the dry forest in the center of the mountain

alagalla and mawathagama peaks

alagalla and mawathagama peaks

last pano for the day

last pano for the day

now it seems cleared off

now it seems cleared off

pride

pride

While descending I sprained my knee joint which was a nightmare for me and from there onwards I had to crawl down slowly without bending my left knee as possible. While I was tackling with a sprained knee Harinda was rooting up few huge trees and producing some chuckles in our minds ha ha ha… If Hanuman was a live he would have come in search of Harinda and asked him to pay for the damage:-D. Anyway it was unintentional and descending is always a problematic when it’s too steep. We ended up finally at Kandagoda RMV which is located at the base of the mountain. It seemed to be an ancient temple with a huge caved image house with a drip ledged inscription. After getting back to the village house where we halted our bikes, we were served with a glass of sweet orange juice by the owner which was like “Amurthaya” for us and not so far away we got a hot Belli mal drink and a piece of papaw from another villager which was like medicine for our tired souls. After thanking Kumarasekara mama we went to Dinushas place and had a wash before we departed, to experience a continuous shower until we reached Hettipola. Harinda was kind enough to drop me off at Chilaw and return back towards Colombo to end our one day adventure at historical Dolukanda. Thanks for reading!

getting down

getting down

last moment captures

last moment captures

kandegoda RMV

kandegoda RMV

the inscription

the inscription

good bye dolukanda

good bye dolukanda

 

Celebrated Freedom Day on Top of Thoppigala (Baron’s cap)!

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Year and Month May, 2013 (19th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew
Accommodation Chinna cottage Kallady, Batticaloa
Transport Public transport and private vehicle
Activities To Celebrate 4 years of freedom, Hiking, Archeology & scenery
Weather Extremely humid and hot
Route Medagama -> Monaragala -> Siyambalanduwa -> Potuvil -> Sangaman kanda -> Thirukkovil -> Akkareripattu -> Oluvil -> Kalmune -> Batticaloa -> Chenkalady -> Kiran -> Thoppigala -> returned on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (2L per person) and food products.
  • Wear light coloured clothes
  • A Jeewani bottle will be helpful to replace lost salts
  • Start as early as possible or try to climb in the evening (the heat and humidity is something I have never experienced).
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • The climb is a continuous one
  • No need of a guide but you are given one
  • Avoid overcast conditions (thundering)
  • Behave decently since this is an archaeological site and also important place to the military plus civilians.

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Sumith from the SL Army and Priyanjan for the valuable information

Related Resources
  1. Trip Report: Loitering around Ampara
  2. Discussion: Toppigala – To be opened to the Public

 

Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
red=summit green=camp site

Red = summit Green = camp site – Click Map to Enlarge

It was another random weekend coming up and I needed to go somewhere as usual and suddenly out of nowhere the name Thoppigala popped out from one of those deep nerve plexus and incidentally the coming Sunday was 19th May which was the date where the president declared the end of the civil war 4 years back (that is 2009/05/19). It was the ideal occasion to hoist a flag on top of the famous Baron’s cap which was the last stronghold of the rebels in the East. More information on Thoppigala war will be brought up later in this report.
On the 18th of May I took a bus from Monaragala to Potuvil planning to visit few places while reaching my night resting place at Batticaloa to start an early morning climb with my Lakdasun friends on the next day! After getting to Potuvil I had to hire a trishaw to get to the eastern most point of Sri Lanka which was Sangaman kanda and the trishaw guy agreed for a reasonable fair. The road towards Sangaman kanda goes through Komari bridge which is a place worth a photograph and the rest of the ride was through the Komari forest patch which was indeed interesting though we didn’t come across any elephants. Just before reaching the junction at Sangaman kanda with a kovil I came across an archaeology site right by the road. One can easily identify the fleet of steps on the rock leading towards the ancient pagoda on the rock. So it was time for a bit of exploring. I somehow came across two drip ledge caves and few remnants of a building and it seem to be an ancient monastery. The sad story was department of archeology has not put up a black board even to this road side heritage point. Passing the ruins site there is tarred road leading towards the coastal line which we decided to proceed on.

komari paddy fields

komari paddy fields

beautiful sea side fields

beautiful sea side fields

stunning view from komari bridge

stunning view from komari bridge

drying its feathers

drying its feathers

kadala boys were all along the road

kadala boys were all along the road

ancient steps

ancient steps

towards the pagoda at sangaman kanda

towards the pagoda at sangaman kanda

remnants of the pagoda

remnants of the pagoda

 drip ledge cave at sangaman kanda

drip ledge cave at sangaman kanda

more ruins

more ruins

they were in 100's

they were in 100′s

We continued few km’s on it until we reached a 3 way junction where a gravel road branched out with an acute angle to the left. This path is 4WD road until the Sangaman kanda light house and can be managed with caution with a car but there will be some scratch marks left behind. After tackling this part we reached a cabana where we parked and walked 50m to reach the Eastern most point of SL. The said light house is now just a pile of concrete which serves no purpose other than been a landmark. After hanging around a bit we returned back to the Sagaman kanda where I had an argument with the money minded trishaw guys who doubled his first said price saying the road conditions were bad and etc. please do note Potuvil trishaw guys are extremely money minded since they deal with foreigners.

unique way post showing us the directions

unique way post showing us the directions

Eastern most point in SL

Eastern most point in SL

life on sand

life on sand

indian rollar posing

indian rollar posing

thinking about the next meal

thinking about the next meal

at sangaman kanda kovil

at sangaman kanda kovil

i bought that siyambala bag

i bought that siyambala bag

From Sangaman kanda I took a bus to Akkareipattu and it was a pleasure to the eyes to witness the lush green paddy fields of Thirukkovil and Akkareripattu and at the backdrop seeing the mountain ranges of Damana and Ampara area was the icing on the cake. Next stop was Akkareripattu and it was almost close to 4.30pm, so after having a yummy Saruwath I decided to hire a trishaw again to get to Oluvil light house. The sun was starting to say good bye already and the light house was also locked up and no one was around other than the locals enjoying the evening breeze at the beach. After snapping around a bit I asked the trishaw guy to drop me off at a bus halt where I spent about one hour witnessing a superb sun set over the paddy fields. At around 6.30pm I got in to a jammed packed Jaffna – Akkareipattu bus and was lucky enough to get a seat until Batticaloa. Tiredness and hunger made me go no more than 100 feet from where I got off. And the Sunshine fast close to Kallady bridge was like a blessing for me. After having dinner I went in search of a rest house and the police guys directed me towards a budget place close to Kalladi bridge which was indeed my night resting place.

perfect sun set at oluvil

perfect sun set at oluvil

oluvil light house at dusk

oluvil light house at dusk

lined up

lined up

the setting sun

the setting sun

waiting untill the fish sing at Kallady

waiting untill the fish sing at Kallady

Next day early morning I decided to walk towards the Kallady beach which was 5 minutes away. But it was very cloudy and I was bit disappointed with since it ruined my sun rise. Finally when the sun decided to rise up a huge evil cloud resembling a devil was covering it (see the pic its really evil looking) somehow the mighty sun tore it a part and lit up the shores of Kallady.

halted after a night of fishing

halted after a night of fishing

some of them prefers sleeping on the beach

some of them prefers sleeping on the beach

gloomy but colourful

gloomy but colourful

slow shutter had worked a bit

slow shutter had worked a bit

flames of the horizon trying to win a battle

flames of the horizon trying to win a battle

wow

wow

the straight line

the straight line

The evil cloud who gulped up the sun

The evil cloud who gulped up the sun

on fire

on fire

here she comes

here she comes

lighting up

lighting up

ok the battle was won by....

ok the battle was won by….

wow

wow

the family who came to witness the sun rise

the family who came to witness the sun rise

returning back

returning back

well maintained kalladi beach

well maintained kalladi beach

remnants of tsunami

remnants of tsunami

the famous kalladi bridge  with the new one close by

the famous kalladi bridge with the new one close by

batticaloa ladies on the cycles

batticaloa ladies on the cycles

with the classical fishing hats

with the classical fishing hats

Batticaloa dutch fort

Batticaloa dutch fort

fishing competition below kalladi bridge

fishing competition below kalladi bridge

After getting back to the main road my friends Kasun, Theshantha & Sheham did come and fetch me up from Batticaloa since neither of those racing Walachchenai buses stopped for me. After passing Chenkalady we reached Kiran where we had to take the road leading towards the western side. The road was motorable though it’s not tarred at some points. We had to inform the road block our intentions and proceed further through a marshy area and next a dry shrub forest. The area seems to have been developed a bit within these 4 years and people were back in their paddy fields doing what they know best! On the way the cap shaped peak started peeping over the tall trees and changed its shape continuously. We went passing the 232 brigade headquarters to reach the Thoppigala visiting center where we were greeted by the army officer who was supposed to show us around. His name was Sumith and was one of those nicest people one can have to show you around. He was humble and very helpful and I really do appreciate his service. We were straight away ready for business and the daunting cap with a sheer drop was our target. From the visitors center we drove about 1 km up to the base of the rock and started climbing along a well paved path.

first view of the target

first view of the target

Barons cap(Thoppigala)

Barons cap(Thoppigala)

the path

the path

butterfly life

butterfly life

It was around 8.15am and though we thought it would not be that much difficult we were wrong. The initial climb was not so steep but with no time we had to take some pit stops and we were also feeling extremely thirsty with every step we took. Gosh it was not even 9am and the heat was unbearable, the army forces should have been awarded a special award for battling in these difficult conditions for more than a year. The last part was the sheer rock and the army has placed a new ladder to tackle this difficult part. After getting to the top we found some shade and rested for good 10 minutes before we proceeded towards the only tree found on the top of it which was a “Ehela” tree. We were chatting for around 30 minutes under the shade of it because we were too exhausted and couldn’t think of walking around. There is a communication tower and a pagoda build at least 10 years back. Also there was an ancient pagoda in ruins and the bricks fallen around been the only evidence of its past. My only concern was that since the place has been announced as a public attraction, people will be coming by bus loads and jumping around over this pagoda because of lack of awareness. I wish the military does contact the archaeology department and at least put up a fence around it.

 the lake where the camp site is

the lake where the camp site is

Narakamulla LTTE base

Narakamulla LTTE base

one of those lakes

one of those lakes

towards maduru oya side

towards maduru oya side

more to go

more to go

the view from the rest point

the view from the rest point

the lake and the cultivation both in one snap

the lake and the cultivation both in one snap

the steep path

the steep path

side view

side view

the drop

the drop

the past

the past

the finat bit was steep

the finat bit was steep

 would you believe me that this beauty was found on top of thoppigala

would you believe me that this beauty was found on top of thoppigala

the ancient pagoda is covered with grass on the summit

the ancient pagoda is covered with grass on the summit

the famous comando mark

the famous comando mark

The army personnel will not allow anyone to disobey and they have put up a fence to limit such behavior. From one side the eastern coastal line can be visualized and on the opposite side it’s all about mountains of Baron’s cap reserve and Omanugala (Maduru oya) reserve. The officer showed us a mountain range where the last main base of the terrorist once stood. It was called Narakamulla and it is said they carried out all of their activities during the final stages of the eastern war from this camp and Thoppigala was the dual purpose base which reinforced the security of the main base. From the top of Thoppigala one can have a 360 degree view and that was an added advantage during the war. They even had heavy artillery installed on top of it and it was a really a difficult task to capture the main base of Narakamulla because of Thoppigala. Even now one could witness the damaged hill top by heavy artillery fire. We also identified Dimbulagala, Welikanda areas, Unnachchiya and many nearby tanks including Thoopigala lake. Once it was a deserted place but now one can witness lush green paddy fields around the base of the mountain. We also didn’t forget to raise the National flag and celebrate the freedom day before descending to get away from been barbequed. While getting down the metal ladder caused some problems because it was heated up. One should keep that in mind to try and avoid long contact with the metal bar and also be extra cautious because you might trip and fall. On the way to the base we also took a small detour to visit one of those caves where the rebels hid and attacked.

a near by lake

a near by lake

the mountain range

the mountain range

towards narakamulla

towards narakamulla

towards walachchenai

towards walachchenai

celebrating liberation

celebrating liberation

even they were feeling the heat

even they were feeling the heat

pano towards walachchenai

pano towards walachchenai

pano towards narakamulla and maduru oya

pano towards narakamulla and maduru oya

it was getting bit misty like

it was getting bit misty like

plenty of paddy

plenty of paddy

this is a nightmare not because of the hight but the heat

this is a nightmare not because of the hight but the heat

scenery while getting down

scenery while getting down

gravel road through the paddy fields

gravel road through the paddy fields

descending

descending

one of those natural caves used by rebels

one of those natural caves used by rebels

jackets let to decay

jackets let to decay

natural kochchi

natural kochchi

After getting to the base all of us had a bath from the wash rooms and had some cool drinks from the canteen to refresh ourselves. The word called “Hacked” will describe our feeling more than any other words I guess. After resting a bit we had a tour around the visiting Centre where we were explained how the war in the east and Thoppigala area was conducted. They do charge 100/= from the whole group for the wash room and parking separately and also there are facilities for camping if someone wishes too. The camp site is near the lake and two army personnel will accompany you. They do charge 500/= per person and basic facilities are been supplied. For more information please contact them

Quote (Sunday Observer)

Thoppigala, also known as Baron’s Cap and Kudumbimalai, is a large rock standing at 350feet (100m) above sea level. The rock is surrounded by thick jungle and rocky terrain. And also have a number of natural caves

Fierce fighting erupted between the LTTE and the SLA at the final forward defense line (FDL) of LTTE, at their Beirut complex in Narakamulla, Thoppigala area between 22–24 June 2007. The FDL was fortified with 6 bunker lines and 3 minor camps. The LTTE did not vacate their positions due to SLA’s heavy barrage of artillery and tank gun fire. Finally, around 50 SLA commandos infiltrated the LTTE bunkers and killed 30 of them. Three LTTE cadres committed suicide. This series of events turned the tide of the battle of Thoppogala against the LTTE.

The fierce battle North of Narakamulla, in the Thoppigala area on 6 July 2007 morning, killed 6 Sri Lankan army personnel including an officer called Colonel Samantha Ranathunga, and injured 7, due to heavy mortar fire by the LTTE. The Sri Lankan military retaliated with artillery and aerial bombardment to control the situation.

After 13 years, the Sri Lankan military captured the final stronghold of LTTE in the East, Thoppigala (Baron’s Cap), on the morning of 11 July 2007, nearly after a year of military action.

the memorial

the memorial

Thoppigala, Barons cap

Thoppigala, Barons cap

heritage centre

heritage centre

demonstrations

demonstrations

an art work

an art work

how they fought

how they fought

explosives used by the terrorist

explosives used by the terrorist

read - Click Image to Enlarge

read – Click Image to Enlarge

arial view

arial view

We left Thoppigala with some unforgettable memories and were glad that we had the opportunity to visit such a historically important place. We arrived at Batticaloa to have some lunch from Sunshine fast close to Kallady Bridge; I would like to recommend this place for the passing by travelers because of its tasty food and good service. After filling up our tummy’s we went towards Batticaloa light house and for our disappointment it was closed since April. Next we headed back towards Sangaman kanda via Akkareipattu and it was again a pleasure to the eyes. I was lucky enough to visit the eastern most point of SL on two consecutive days.

Batticaloa delta

Batticaloa delta

plenty of shells

plenty of shells

Batticaloa light house

Batticaloa light house

 Kattankuddy date trees grown on the main road and some had harvest

Kattankuddy date trees grown on the main road and some had harvest

mountains of damana and maragalakanda seen far left

mountains of damana and maragalakanda seen far left

a lagoon at thirukkovil

a lagoon at thirukkovil

beautiful country side

beautiful country side

Sangaman kanda beach

Sangaman kanda beach

for the second consecutive day i reached sangaman kanda

for the second consecutive day i reached sangaman kanda

After arriving at Pottuvil we took the Lahugala route which was always a pleasure to travel because you are guaranteed to meet few jumbos. And guess what we met about five elephants having an evening munch. The dynamic lighting conditions at Lahugala tank produced some stunning scenery which served justice to the phrase “The best is always at the end” . I had to say good bye to my friends and get off at Monaragala to end this lovely expedition. I heard that they did travel 900km+ through 6 provinces and 9 districts within 24 hours. I think I missed that part of the journey :-)

Thanks for reading!

elephants at lahugala

elephants at lahugala

jumbo enjoying some the villus

jumbo enjoying some the villus

lahugala country side

lahugala country side

 the perfect road

the perfect road

dream house

dream house

munch and munch

munch and munch

two of the jumbos at lahugala tank

two of the jumbos at lahugala tank

perfect scenery

perfect scenery

the road to heaven with few jumbos

the road to heaven with few jumbos

 close up

close up

the tamed deer at STF camp lahugala

the tamed deer at STF camp lahugala

 

Small prints of Pollonnaruwa

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Year and Month March, May 2013
Number of Days Two separate Days
Crew 02
Accommodation N/A
Transport Motor bike
Activities Sightseeing, Archeology and Photography
Weather Excellent
Route Polonnaruwa -> Batticalo junction -> Mahiyangana Road -> Maguldamana(මගුල්දමන) -> Handapanwila(හදපාන්විල) -> Returned back to Dimbulagala junction -> Kottaragala(කොට්ටාරගල) -> Returned back to Dimbulagala junction -> Pulligoda(පුල්ලිගොඩ) and Kosgahaulpotha(කොස්ගහ උල්පොත) -> Aralaganwila -> Silumina Saya (සිළුමිණ සෑය) -> Madagama -> Dewagala(දේවගල) -> Returned back to Pollonnaruwa
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It is extremely hot this area in the afternoon. Therefore better start the journey in the early morning. Avoid in rainy season as some roads get flood.
  • Always explain to villagers your intention of visiting. Carry some books to prove it. Otherwise you will be caught as treasurer seekers.
  • Don’t leave anything other than footprints. Don’t take anything other than photography.
  • Reading about these places beforehand will make your journey valuable.
  • Carry a bottle of water
  • To reach some places you need a guide
  • No public transports in some roads. Therefore better have your own vehicle
  • Be aware of wild Elephants. Avoid getting into forest in the late evening.

** Special thanks to ** Rev. Rathana Thero who guided us at Pulligoda and Kosgahaulpotha archaeology sites.

Related Resources
  1. “Mahawaliya ha eithihasika Pollonnaruwa” මහවැලිය හා එතිහාසික පොලොන්නරුව by Jayasingha Balasooriya. Can be bought from Pollonnaruwa Museum.
  2. “Pulathisiwanshaya” පුලතිසිවoශය – publication of cultural ministry of Sri Lanka
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Pollonnaruwa is rich of archeological sites. There are rare places than our popular visits. I got to know about some of these places by a book and it made my visit at these sites. I did this travelling intermittently when I found a free time as well as a friend(s) to travel with me. Therefore I can’t say exact number of days need to cover all these places.

Places I included in this report are

  • Duwegala Rajamaha Wiharaya-Handapanwila දූවේගල රජමහා විහාරය හදපාන්විල
  • Pulligoda archeological site with ancient paintings
  • Kottaragala/Kotaweheragala Thisawehera කොට්ටාරගල/ කොටවෙහෙරගල තිස්වෙහෙර
  • Kosgahaulpotha archeological site. කොස්ගහ උල්පොත
  • Dewagala cave temple දේවගල
  • Silumina Saya සිළුමිණ සෑය

All these places are situated around Dimbulaga.

Duwegala Rajamaha Wiharaya
This is a cave temple situated in a Willuwa called Handapanwila. When you travel in Dimbulagala-Mahiyangana road, you will come across Maguldamana junction. There is an archeology board in the right hand side mentioning about this temple. Travel in the Buddha Jayanthi Road about 4-5km to reach the temple. Road condition is not good.

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Cave temple is situated at the highest point of the Willuwa. Therefore during rainy season this temple remains without getting flood. Handapan Willuwa and Brandiya Willuwa are on either side of the temple.

Cave temple is situated at the highest point of the Willuwa. Therefore during rainy season this temple remains without getting flood. Handapan Willuwa and Brandiya Willuwa are on either side of the temple.

Handapan Willuwa. It becomes a reservoir during rainy season. Wild elephants can be seen here

Handapan Willuwa. It becomes a reservoir during rainy season. Wild elephants can be seen here

Historical background

Historical background – Click Image to Enlarge

According to the chronicles, this cave temple belongs to B.C 4. But there is a stone inscription found on the roof of cave temple mentioning King Lajjithissa (ලජ්ජිතිස්ස) (B.C 119-109) has offered this cave temple to Gothagaththa Thissa (ගෝතගත්තතිස්ස) Thero. Following the quarrel between prince Dutugamunu and prince Saddhathissa, this Gothagaththa Thissa Thero has brought prince Saddhathissa to Dutugamunu.

There are two stone inscriptions found here with the cave temple.

It is unusual to find a stone inscription on the top of cave, not under the drip ledge

It is unusual to find a stone inscription on the top of cave, not under the drip ledge

Note the second stone inscription found inside the cave. It is a sailer sign. New Buddha statue was made in front of this

Note the second stone inscription found inside the cave. It is a sailer sign. New Buddha statue was made in front of this

Newly built Buddha statue

Newly built Buddha statue

Number of ruins scattered around the cave temple. Not excavated yet

Number of ruins scattered around the cave temple. Not excavated yet

A ruin of old stupa-circumference is around 300feet

A ruin of old stupa-circumference is around 300feet

Another one

Another one

Following visit of Handapanwila temple, you have to come back in the same road towards Dimbulagala junction. Before Dimbulaga junction, you will find the road towards Soriwila (සොරිවිල) and archeology board indicating Kottaragala.

Kottaragala-Kotaweheragala Thisawehera

You have to drive about 1.5km in this road to reach this small rock in left hand side named as Kottaragala-Kotaweheragala Thisawehera. There is a police post next to this rock. Always inform them that you are going to visit there and the purpose of visit. Otherwise you would be caught as treasure seekers. (What happened to us)

Kottaragala rock

Kottaragala rock

Ancient stupa. King Mahadhatika Mahanaga මහාදාඨික මහානාග (07-10A.C) has built it.  It has a circumference of 200feet

Ancient stupa. King Mahadhatika Mahanaga මහාදාඨික මහානාග (07-10A.C) has built it. It has a circumference of 200feet

Perennial pond “Kisida nosidena Pokuna”

Perennial pond “Kisida nosidena Pokuna”

View of Dimubulagala

View of Dimubulagala

View of Thoppigala

View of Thoppigala

Another pond

Another pond

Following visit at above three archeological sites, I came back to Dimbulagala junction. Two archeological boards were there indicating Pulligoda cave with paintings and kosgahaulpotha. Akasa Chaithya අකාශ චෙතයය of Dimbulagala can be viewed nicely on your way to Pulligoda.

“Akasa Chaithya”

“Akasa Chaithya”

Dimbulagala Lake with mountain range

Dimbulagala Lake with mountain range

Akasa chaithya zoomed

Akasa chaithya zoomed

Pulligoda paintings.

This cave is situated about 3km from Dimbulagala junction and name board will direct you towards there.

Steps towards the cave

Steps towards the cave

Fortunately remaining of the paintings are protected

Fortunately remaining of the paintings are protected

Pulligoda paintings

Pulligoda paintings

There are two thoughts of the time period of Pulligoda paintings. Some archeologists believe this was drawn according to Pallawa පල්ලව tradition. There is a stone inscription found close to this cave mentioning this cave was offered to sermons by a person called “Kutahaka” කූටහක in B.C. period.

It shows five gods are carrying flowers. Most probably they were hearing preaching.

To reach Pulligoda archeological site you need assistance of some local.

Rev. Rathana Thero who was the chief priest of Pulligoda temple (as well as the only priest) voluntarily came with us.

This is situated about ¾ kilometers away from Pulligoda temple within the forest. The foot pathway is getting forested due to less frequent visits of people.

Pulligoda archeological site

This place was believed as an ancient Buddhist monastery where Maliyadewa Arahath Thero මලියදේව රහතන් වහන්සේ has preached “ariyawansalankara deshanaya” අරියවoශාලoකාර දේශනය . Maliyadewa Thero was the last Arahath Thero of Sri Lanka.

Entering to the forest patch, steps also can be seen there

Entering to the forest patch, steps also can be seen there

Evidences of wild Elephants

Evidences of wild Elephants

View of Akasa Chaithya

View of Akasa Chaithya

Steps to climb

Steps to climb

Ruins of an “Asanagara” ආසනඝර -This is the place where Maliyadewa Thero preached Ariyawansalakara Sutra. Treasure hunters have done their work

Ruins of an “Asanagara” ආසනඝර -This is the place where Maliyadewa Thero preached Ariyawansalakara Sutra. Treasure hunters have done their work

Work of treasure hunters

Work of treasure hunters

Surrounding view with Dimbulagala Lake

Surrounding view with Dimbulagala Lake

Few meters away from the ruins, a stone inscription can be seen on the flat stone. It is fairly long stone inscription and middle part of this can’t be clearly seen now.

Stone inscription

Stone inscription

Note the middle part of this is missing now

Note the middle part of this is missing now

Perennial pond

Perennial pond

Then we got on to a nearby rock to enjoy the surrounding view

Dimbulagala Lake with Akasha chaithya

Dimbulagala Lake with Akasha chaithya

Ampara side

Ampara side

Pollonnaruwa-Mahiyanganaya road

Pollonnaruwa-Mahiyanganaya road

Another man made pond

Another man made pond

Dimbulagala mountain range. This part is visible as a face of lion. They call it Sinhagala සිoහගල

Dimbulagala mountain range. This part is visible as a face of lion. They call it Sinhagala සිoහගල

Then we walked back to the Pulligoda temple and went to our next place of visit-Kosgahaulpatha archeological site. It is situated about 2-3km from the temple and Rathana Thero came with us.

Kosgahaulpatha Archeology site

After travelling by three wheel and motor bike we came across an irrigation canal have to be crossed. It was funny to cross it like “Tarzan”.

My friend is crossing the water stream

My friend is crossing the water stream

Kosgahaulpatha rock. Ruins can be seen in the middle part of this rock.

Kosgahaulpatha rock. Ruins can be seen in the middle part of this rock.

The name Kosgahaulpatha is due to a water spring coming from the rock.

View of Sinhagala

View of Sinhagala

Scattered ruins met our way

Scattered ruins met our way

Ruins

Ruins

Our team excepts me

Our team excepts me

There are two caves found in this archeology site. One has a reclined Buddha statue and other one is occupied by an attic. This is a special feature of this archeology site and I haven’t come across that kind of thing before.

Reclined Buddha statue. Treasure hunters have destroyed it

Reclined Buddha statue. Treasure hunters have destroyed it

Foot print

Foot print

A pond also can be seen there

A pond also can be seen there

Water is dropping from the water spring

Water is dropping from the water spring

Water spring is zoomed

Water spring is zoomed

Attic. There was a precious ladder to climb this. Locals said Dutch fellows have taken it off due to it’s value

Attic. There was a precious ladder to climb this. Locals said Dutch fellows have taken it off due to it’s value

Remanings-wall, two door frames and window. Rice husks can be seen there

Remanings-wall, two door frames and window. Rice husks can be seen there

After spending time at Kosgahaulpotha archeology site we direct our journey towards Aralaganwila side to reach other two places.

Scenic road towards Aralaganwila

Scenic road towards Aralaganwila

Silumina Saya

I couldn’t find the reason for the name of this Stupa. This archeology site has been preserved well. You can approach this directly from Pollonnaruwa without going to Dimbulagala junction.

Silumina Saya surrounded by stone pillars

Silumina Saya surrounded by stone pillars

This is the history

This is the history – Click Image to Enlarge

Korawakgala

Korawakgala

Largest  umbrella stone found in Sri Lanka

Largest umbrella stone found in Sri Lanka

Front view with steps

Front view with steps

The stone inscription found there

The stone inscription found there

The last place of visit was Dewagala ruins which is located in Aralaganwila. It is an isolated rock carrying few caves and ruins. My friend was the guide here as it is close to his home. From Dimbulagala junction you have to travel till Madagama junction. (About 3km). Then take the road towards the Sewanapitiya about 2km to reach Dewagala cave temple.

Dewagala cave temple

The location of this rock is so fascinating and surrounded by paddy fields. It is believed this Buddhist monastery belongs to 1 B.C. The area between Mahawali river and Maduru oya was called inter river region අන්තර් ගoගා ප්ර දේශය. Buddhist monks of this region have used this. If you go to other end of the rock Dewagala lake can be seen.

Wall paper

Wall paper

Largest pond found on the rock

Largest pond found on the rock

This is the only evidence of old Stupa. It has circumference of 150 feet and stone pillars can be seen all over there

This is the only evidence of old Stupa. It has circumference of 150 feet and stone pillars can be seen all over there

Another pond

Another pond

Small cave with newly built walls. But no Buddhist monks live here

Small cave with newly built walls. But no Buddhist monks live here

Largest cave with drip ledge. At the moment they have found four caves here

Largest cave with drip ledge. At the moment they have found four caves here

Smart friend I met

Smart friend I met

Randomly captured

Randomly captured

This is called Gal Ugula (ගල් උගුල) . There is a treasure under this trap and anyone would be injured by falling stones on him if try to get it.

This is called Gal Ugula (ගල් උගුල) . There is a treasure under this trap and anyone would be injured by falling stones on him if try to get it.

Evidence of treasure hunters

Evidence of treasure hunters

Nearby giant-Dimbulagala

Nearby giant-Dimbulagala

Baron's cap

Baron’s cap

Final capture of the day..Is it man made or natural?

Final capture of the day..Is it man made or natural?

Thanks for reading.

 

Hot springs and arch sites around Mahaoya + Padiyathalawa

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Year and Month May, 2013
Number of Days 2 consecutive days
Crew 1
Accommodation Maha oya Nadeesha rest
Transport Public transport, trishaw
Activities Archeology / Trekking
Weather Mixed weather
Route
  • D1: Monaragala -> Bibile -> Padiyathalawa -> Holike -> Dorakumbura -> Wahawa -> Kolamanthalawa -> loonubokka -> Padiyathalawa -> Maha oya -> Maduru oya -> Maha oya
  • D2: Maha oya -> Harasgala -> Serankada -> Navinna -> Padiyadora -> Bibila -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Get permission from the head priest
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Some places require 4WD or trishaws
  • Behave accordingly at hermitages
  • Explain your intensions clearly
  • My main intension is creating awareness, if you want to know more about the place the head priests of
    these locations will give you a good description when you visit:-)
Related Resources
  1. Trip Report: Loitering around Ampara
  2. Discussion: Hot Water Springs in Sri Lanka
  3. Web page: Lesser Known attraction SLTDA
  4. Books: Digamadulu wandana gamana , Sinhala Baudda Urumaya by Ven Ellawala Medhananda thero
Author
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map 1

Map 1 – click image to enlarge

Map 2

Map 2 – Click image to enlarge

It was a period of mixed weather and I had been away from temples and Archeology sites for a while so decided to have a small tour around Padiyathalawa and Maha oya region on a weekend. Visiting archeology sites and temples is not an easy task since there are many issues lately that cause significant problems and it’s essential to win the trust of the head priests these days otherwise you would be labeled as a “Nidan hora” and be arrested by the 119 squad. Despite all the barriers I decided continue on my quest so on a Saturday I headed towards Padiyathalawa and took a bus towards Wahawa to start things off.

Though the main objective of the day was to visit the infamous hot water springs of Wahawa I did manage to visit two more places on the same road. My first stop was at Holike RMV which is now a modified temple with very few ruins around. Out of those I came across a Korawak stone and some steps leading towards a “Budu geya” in ruins. And also there were few pillars around been re arranged as a fence. Next stop was at Dorakumbura junction where I had to get down and walk towards Wahawa hot water springs. The walk towards Wahawa hot water springs was not a joyful walk at all because of the extreme heat and humid conditions plus the road been under construction was not helping the cause at all. After 2Km I reached the ancient temple of Wahawa where few pillars can be found and not so far from it there were few monoliths with remnants of a pagoda. A very special monolith in the shape of a creeper was also observed, according to legend it is said that it was used as a towel hanger for the royal members (Magama kingdom) who had a bath from the nearby hot spring. Though there were few hot water springs in the surrounding area I only could visit 4 of them. The main spring was pumping out water at a height of 7 feet with immense pressure and is an ideal place for a bath. Local villages use the water from these springs for their cultivations in a well-planned manner.

pillars re arranged at Holike

pillars re arranged at Holike

a lamp at holike

a lamp at holike

ancient steps at holike

ancient steps at holike

Wahawa ancient temple

Wahawa ancient temple

an ancient sthupa with a unique pillar

an ancient sthupa with a unique pillar

and it meets the ground

and it meets the ground

the high pressure hot water pipe

the high pressure hot water pipe

 feeding the paddy fields

feeding the paddy fields

another one

hot water wells everywhere

bubbling

bubbling

a hot water well

a hot water well

 

Hela gala very tempting

Hela gala very tempting

posing

posing

Next I had to walk back towards Dorakumbura junction to continue towards Loonubokka to visit Nagiri Len viharaya and it was a walk in hot and humid conditions and if a local villager didn’t volunteer to take me there I would be still walking. So if you are using public transport the best thing is to first visit Nagiri temple. This peaceful temple is an archeological site with few drip ledge caves with inscriptions which is located at the base of Hela gala. The chief monk is very kind and will treat you well as he can. He did volunteer to show me around too. The main Nagiri lena is been modified and is used for meditation purpose. The cold nature in the cave feels like a blessing in these heated up conditions. There were plenty of ruins scattered around the main cave too. This cave hermitage is said to be once occupied by “Rahathan Thero’s” during the forgotten past and later modified by king Saddathissa. Next we took a foot path towards the hill to explore two more caves and one with the flat roof is the place where locals observe Sil. The chief monk said he could arrange meditation facilities for the he people who seek a peaceful location at one of these caves. These are the contact numbers of the chief monk 0635683239/0723794301

 the main cave at nagiri len viharaya

the main cave at nagiri len viharaya

the head priest showing around

the head priest showing around

the largest karaduwa in ampara district

the largest karaduwa in ampara district

contribute to a nobel cause - Click to enlarge

contribute to a nobel cause – Click to enlarge

ruins at nagiri len viharaya

ruins at nagiri len viharaya

inside was very cool

inside was very cool

drip ledge cave

drip ledge cave

the cave for observing sil

the cave for observing sil

 the view from the cave

the view from the cave

 

From Loonubokka I somehow got a lift to Padiyathalawa where I took a bus towards Maha oya and soon after getting off at Maha oya I walked towards Bollegama RMV which is located right in front of the hospital. This ancient temple which is now a modified place is said to be done by king Saddathissa. Currently only few ruins pilled together in a corner serves as evidence about it’s past. Next I got together with one of my friends from Maha oya hospital and headed 2km on Aralaganvila road and visited the famous hot water springs of Maha oya and I did check in on each and every well to feel the temperature difference ;-)

Quote

Wrapped in legends of its origin and their mythical healing powers of its water the seven hot water springs of Mahaoya is a magnet to the travelers, who had been flocking to Ampara with the end of the thirty year war. 

Located about 2km off Mahaoya town, the springs are said to be one of the hottest springs of all the hot springs in Sri Lanka. The temperature of the hottest well is about 56C .

Each spring is enclosed by a stone wall to form seven individual wells, which in turn are covered by a wall to provide privacy to those who bathe. The size of each well varies. The bottom of the well is formed of quartz, sand and gravel and thus the water is clear and not muddy. The temperature of each well varies and due to its mineral composition the water is said to cure skin ailments and arthritis.

The best time to visit is either early in the morning or late evening when the sun goes down as it is quiet and sounds of the night give a calming effect. A ticketing counter at the entrance issues tickets and provide the visitors with buckets for a nominal fee and the visitors would be advised to use the water sparsely so that the springs will flow for posterity. Furthermore the use of soap should be avoided in order to reduce the pollution of the spring water. 

 image house at bollagala RMV

image house at bollagala RMV

pagoda at bollagama RMV

pagoda at bollagama RMV

decorated bo tree at bollagama RMV

decorated bo tree at bollagama RMV

ruins at bollegama

ruins at bollegama

ruins at bollagama RMV

ruins at bollagama RMV

bubbling

bubbling

Maha oya hot water wells

Maha oya hot water wells

Passing the hot water wells and heading further towards Unuwaturabubula will take one towards a junction with a black board directing towards Veheragala hermitage which can be reached by any vehicle. This was once covered with dense forest but now the place is a fully functional place with many monks meditating in the drip ledge caves. This is a peaceful and serene hermitage and is a worthy place to visit. We also noted a fleet of steps on the opposite hill leading towards an ancient pagoda

Quote

Deep in Mahaoya close to the hot water wells is an ancient monastery of the second century BC, which had been the abode of meditating monks even few decades ago.

The ruins of the ancient monastery spread across nearly 10 acres and had been savaged at various times in search of treasures and building material. The two stupas at the bottom of the rock plateau had been ravaged to a pile of rocks. Stone tablets made are found in site broken while the stone door frame had been stolen by relic hunters.  Closer to the stupa are the remain of a building including a moonstone or a sandakadapahana, six stone pillars,  entrance steps, stairway and the Korawakgal or stone balustrades.  Inside the building boundaries are stone seats, a stone sink and a replica of the Lord Buddha’s feet, the only remaining monuments within the monastery boundaries. 

Scattered over the grounds are more ruins of buildings and stupas with stone tablets for offerings. The drip ledged caves of the monastery had been separated into rooms with brick walls and each cave has an inscription detailing the donation done by local nobles. The three reservoirs found nearby had been the water source for the temple and for irrigation yet they too lay ruined today. 

However the temple was given a fresh breath of life when it was converted to a meditating monastery nearly four decades back by a leading meditating master and was the meditation retreat of late Ven. Gangodawila Soma Thera during the early years of his life.  However the monastery was damaged by a hurricane nearly two decades ago and is yet to be revived to life while the new temple built nearly one mile away was built in his memory and serves the village around.

After visiting Veheragala we rushed towards Maduru oya reservoir on the new tar mac which was laid through the Maduru oya park. The sun setting on the greenish back drop of the savanna was one sight I will never ever forget. After about riding 19Km from Maha oya we reached the dam of Maduru oya to enjoy the magnificent colour patterns at the backdrop of the reservoir which were set up by the setting sun to end an eventful day. On the way back to Maha oya we were charged by a wild jumbo which scared our bowels out.

Veheragala

Veheragala

note the drip ledge

note the drip ledge

another cave

another cave

 inside it

inside it

steps on the near by rocky hill

steps on the near by rocky hill

view from the top

view from the top

kema

kema

inscription

inscription

wow

wow

Dusk at maduru oya

Dusk at maduru oya

towards narakamulla

towards narakamulla

dusk at its best

dusk at its best

coloruful

coloruful

beauty of evening sky

beauty of evening sky

Day 2 I decided to get back towards Padiyathalawa and on the way try and visit all the known ancient temple between Maha oya and Padiyathalawa though the rain decided to add on to my troubles.

First place of interest was Harasgala hermitage where I had to take a left hand turn from the A5 main road and travel few hundred meters to reach it. There is a huge drip ledge caved image house which had been recently modified and also there are two more drip ledge caves in the vicinity which I couldn’t visit due to the bad weather conditions. Also it is said that the view from the top of the cave is panoramic but yet again the rain didn’t allow me to venture on.

image house at harasgala

image house at harasgala

cave at harasgala hermitage

cave at harasgala hermitage

inside the cave image house

inside the cave image house

newly built

newly built

cave at harasgala hermitage

cave at harasgala hermitage

plaster

plaster

katarama

katarama

the bell

the bell

From Harasgala in pouring rain I headed towards Serankada. Right on the side of the road there is a Makara thorana at the entrance of the temple. After meeting the head priest I fell in to a chat for about 1 hour until the rain seized off. This temple was done by king Dutugemunu and now only few scattered ruins of a moon stones and few guard stones can be seen around. There is a mini museum which has a statue, a guard stone, Yanthra stone, Chatra stone and few other ruins as exhibits. After spending more than 2 hours I decided to leave the place and head back towards Padiyathalawa.

 Pagoda at serankada

Pagoda at serankada

part of the makara thorana

part of the makara thorana

moon stone at serankada

moon stone at serankada

chatra gala at serankada

chatra gala at serankada

broken statue at serankada rmv

broken statue at serankada rmv

history buried at serankada

history buried at serankada

guard stone

guard stone

few pillars

few pillars

Just before Padiyathalawa I took a turn to the right and continued for 4km’s until I reached Navinna temple. Here also the temple had been modified and only few ruins could be found around. I came across a guard stone, korawak stone, moos stone, few altars and few pillars.

pagoda at navinna rmv

pagoda at navinna rmv

altar at Navinna rmv

altar at Navinna rmv

pa dovanaya

pa dovanaya

steps at navinna rmv

steps at navinna rmv

My last stop was a Padiyathalawa and not even 1 Km away from Padiyathalawa bus stand there is a historically important place called Padiyadora. Just before reaching the Dethis maha bodhiya one will come across Padiyadora ancient temple where a ruined pagoda, few pillars and a fallen statue can be found. The Dethis maha bodhiya is a very famous and a significant landmark in the whole area. It is said that the bo maluwa was decorated with gems along ago and hence the name Padiyadora was given. There is a small archeology hut where you can get some information from those guys. Please be mindful to wear suitable attire at this important religious place. After worshiping the bo tree I headed back towards Padiyathalawa and took a bus via Bibila to Monaragala to end my quest.

dethis maha bodhiya at padiyadora

dethis maha bodhiya at padiyadora

fallen statue at padiyadora

fallen statue at padiyadora

ruins at padiyadora bo tree

ruins at padiyadora bo tree

remnants of a building

remnants of a building

 the pagoda

the pagoda

Please note most of these places were done by King Saddathissa and if you need more information I can email you few images taken from Ellawala Medananda thero’s book.

Thanks for reading.

 

Land of Palmyra

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Year and Month May, 2013 (10th, 11th & 12th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 03  - Myself, Ashan and Wuminda
Accommodation Udayan rest-Jaffna-0212225660
Transport
  • From Colombo to Jaffna and return journey by Thinakaran super luxury bus. T.P-0112429673-Colombo Lake House.
  • Within the Peninsula by public transport, three wheel
  • From Jaffna to Islands by boat
Activities Photography, Just travelling and archeology
Weather Excellent
Route
  • Day 1 – Jaffna inland tour and Karainagar returned to Jaffna
  • Day 2 – Delft and Nagadeepa and returned to Jaffna
  • Day 3 – Point of Pedro,VVT,Vallipuram and Manalkadu returned to Jaffna and then Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You have to plan your tour beforehand. List the places you want to visit and make your plan around it.
  • If you have a map of Jaffna it would be easy. We used the Google map in our phones and it was really useful especially within the city.(It avoided unnecessary three wheel tours)
  • If you have motion sickness, better take pills to prevent it when you are going to Delft. It takes about 1 -1.5 hours to reach there. We saw some passengers suffered from this problem.
  • Three wheel charges outside the Jaffna city are reasonable.
  • If you plan to visit at Kanakasanthurai old cement factory need permission from Sri Lanka Army.
  • If you visit at Kadurugoda temple please bring coconut oil, incents sticks and witches as they are lack of it.
  • You can’t visit at fort Hammenhiel resort unless you are going to stay there. Need some Navy contacts if you want to visit there. But can go to Hammenhiel restaurant and have meals.
  • T.P-+94-113818215/6, fhh@navy.lk, forthammenhiel.navy.lk
  • Nathan was our three wheel driver in first day from Jaffna to Karainagar. His charges were fair-Rs. 2500.00.But he can’t speak Sinhala and English.Nathan-0770711991. Ravi-the owner of Udayan rest will arrange him.
  • Bimalan is the ideal person for Delft tour. He charges Rs 1500.00. He can speak English a bit, but friendly and knowledgeable person. Bimalan-0773945146
  • Ireshan was our three wheel driver around Point of Pedro. He charges only Rs 1300.00-extremely fair. He can’t speak Sinhala or English. Ireshan-0783259808
  • Special Thanks to Major Withanachchi Sri Lanka Army KKS, Major Chulanga Special Task Forces and Kosala Tennakoon Medical Officer Sri Lanka Navy
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We wanted to do a complete Jaffna tour within three days. Before plan this trip I read Sri’s Jaffna and Delft report (The Land of Horses-Delft & re-awakening Jaffna) which was the most recent updates of Jaffna in Lakdasun especially about Delft Island. Then I went through Kristy’s reports of Jaffna (Jaffna-Micro Attractions and which gives a good idea about rare places there. Zoysa’s Jaffna report (On the A9 Road to Jaffna 2010) also helped me to know about Vallipuram and VVT. I knew about Fort Hammenheil from Chandanie’s report (Fort Hammenheil-a prison in the middle of the ocean)
We (I and Wuminda) got into Thinakaran bus from in front of Lake House carrying so many plans with our bags. Journey to Jaffna by this but is bit slow as it stops at about 20-30places from Vavniya to Jaffna to throw their news papers. We reached the Jaffna private bus stand around 7.30am and Ashan has come there before us. After having breakfast we walked towards Udayan rest with help of our Google map. We were warmly welcome by Mr. Ravi the owner of the rest. By 9am we were able to start our journey by the three wheel.

Day 1
Our three wheel driver (Nathan) had a poor knowledge outside the city. Therefore he haphazardly brought us to these places. Then we started to direct him as we were knowledgeable than him.

Naguleshwarn Kandasamy Kovil and Keeramale Herbal Pond

Entrance of Naguleshwaran Kovil –one of four Shiva kovilas  located at four corners of the country

Entrance of Naguleshwaran Kovil –one of four Shiva kovilas located at four corners of the country

Importance of the Kovil

Importance of the Kovil – Click Image to Enlarge

Framed picture

Framed picture

Only Shiva Kovil is having male lingam on female lingam-Photo by Ashan

Only Shiva Kovil is having male lingam on female lingam-Photo by Ashan

The way towards Keeramale herbal pond

The way towards Keeramale herbal pond

Then we stepped towards Keeramale Herbal pond which was nearby.

Keeramale Herbal pond

Keeramale Herbal pond

Keeramale beach

Keeramale beach

View of Kanakasanthurai (KKS) from Keeramale

View of Kanakasanthurai (KKS) from Keeramale

Dambakolapatuna is situated few kilometers away from the Keeramale. Our next stop was that.

 Dambakolapatuna

Although they haven’t found any ruins here, according to the literature this place has been identified as Dambakolapatuna.

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We should not forget

We should not forget

Location of Dambakolapatuna

Location of Dambakolapatuna

Dambakolapatuna beach

Dambakolapatuna beach

Statue of Sangamiththa therani

Statue of Sangamiththa therani

Replica of the ship

Replica of the ship

Stupa

Stupa

Once we finished visiting there I got a call for getting permission to visit at Kanakasanthurai cement factory (KKS). I planned to get the permission to visit there and it was on the way.

Kankasanthurai cement factory (KKS)

No further cement production done here and it is having historical value only. Sri Lanka Army uses this place to put their ammunition now. We had a warm welcome there and we were given an army soldier to show the factory.

Old administrative building

Old administrative building

The cement factory

The cement factory

Familiar symbol in those days

Familiar symbol in those days

Still strong

Still strong

Hanging down

Hanging down

Remains of Old Yaldewi train  in the factory

Remains of Old Yaldewi train in the factory

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Few train compartments belong to last Yaldewi train (before the war) can be seen about 1km away from the KKS factory. We went there also and photography was not allowed there.

After thanking them we moved to Kadurugoda/Kandarodai temple.

Kadurugoda temple

Historical background

Historical background – Click Image to Enlarge

Remaining of stupa

Remaining of stupa

All in one

All in one

Here I would like to include some photographs taken at Archaeology museum of Jaffna.

Belongs to Kadurugoda

Belongs to Kadurugoda

Found at Kadurugoda

Found at Kadurugoda

Remains of Buddha statues

Remains of Buddha statues

Found at Kadurugoda

Found at Kadurugoda

Some more

Some more

Then time was around 2pm and our plan was to visit at Fort Hammenhiel at Karainagar for lunch.

Fort Hammenhiel-Karainagar

Actually Karainagar is a separate island from Jaffna. Old navy prison called Fort Hammenhiel has been converted to a hotel which has three rooms (full board for Rs 18000 per day) situated in the small island form main island. The restaurant is at Karainagara beach. This is ruled out by Sri Lanka Navy. We had our lunch there and meanwhile visited at Fort Hammenhiel hotel by boat.

The price of the lunch was reasonable.

Crossing the causeway to Karainagar

Crossing the causeway to Karainagar

Fort Hammenhiel restaurant

Fort Hammenhiel restaurant

Fort Hammenhiel

Fort Hammenhiel

Story of Hammenhiel

Story of Hammenhiel – Click Image to Enlarge

Entrance

Entrance

The picture tells the story how Dutch caught the fort  from Portuguese by destroying the rain water tank

The picture tells the story how Dutch caught the fort from Portuguese by destroying the rain water tank

Entering to a cell

Entering to a cell

Written  by prisoners

Written by prisoners

Luxurious prison compared to present ones

Luxurious prison compared to present ones

JVP leader Rohana Wijeweera also were here

JVP leader Rohana Wijeweera also were here

Courtyard

Courtyard

These were used as stores

These were used as stores

Pigeon couple

Pigeon couple

Telescope

Telescope

View of Jetty

View of Jetty

World is on the table

World is on the table

After enjoying meals and view of fort Hammenheil we needed to have a sea bath at one of a famous and beautiful beaches called Kasurina. It is situated about 5km away from the fort Hammenheil and we hired a three-wheeler to reach there.

Kasurina beach

Evening at Kasurina beach was a wonderful experience.

Kasurina beach

Kasurina beach

Kasurina beach

Kasurina beach

Tasting Palmyra

Tasting Palmyra

Sun set

Sun set

Evening discussion

Evening discussion

Floating-Photography by Ashan

Floating-Photography by Ashan

Another sun set

Another sun set

Different colours

Different colours

Long hair friend

Long hair friend

Sun set behind the Palmyra  trees

Sun set behind the Palmyra trees

Fortunately we got the last bus from Karainagar to Jaffna and came to last visit of the day- Naga Vihara temple

Naga Vihara Temple

This is one of main Buddhist attractions situated in the middle of the Jaffna town.

Historical background of Naga vihara Temple

Historical background of Naga vihara Temple – Click Image to Enlarge

Stupa

Stupa

Image house

Image house

Following worshipping Nagavihara temple we had our Dinner and walked to Udayan Rest.

Day 2

We woke up early morning and our plan was to visit at Delft and Nagadeepa. Soon after our breakfast we got into a bus to Karaikattuvan which started from Jaffna around 6.40am.

We reached Karaikattuwan Jetty around 8am and joined with the queue to Delft. “Wada Tharaka”-Northern star came to Jetty around 9.15am.

Some faces of the queue

Some faces of the queue

Loading passengers

Loading passengers

View of Nainathiw

View of Nainathiw

Happy passengers-lower floor of the boat is hot. Therefore passengers are reluctant to go there and crowded in the cabin and upper floor.

Happy passengers-lower floor of the boat is hot. Therefore passengers are reluctant to go there and crowded in the cabin and upper floor.

After boat started we also joined with the crowd in cabin. It was a fantastic experience and some people had to come to cabin due to vomiting.

Disappearing of  Karaikattuvan

Disappearing of Karaikattuvan

At cabin

At cabin

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Near to Delft Island they transferred passengers and cargo to a small boat as Delft Jetty is not enough to accommodate Wada Tharakai.

Our guide as well as driver of Delft Bimalan waited there to welcome us.

Vada Tharakai

Vada Tharakai

Delft harbour-Note the Ambulance boat

Delft harbour-Note the Ambulance boat

Bimalan started the Journey along the Delft Island.

Statue of Rev.Father

Statue of Rev.Father

Pigeon house-Used to send messages by pigeon

Pigeon house-Used to send messages by pigeon

Court house

Court house

Symbol of the court house

Symbol of the court house

The way through the Delft Hospital towards Dutch fort

The way through the Delft Hospital towards Dutch fort

Dutch fort

Dutch fort

We were loitering at Dutch fort and Ashan was attacked by wasps when he was trying to squeeze through a broken door. Fortunately we were in the hospital premises and got treatment for that.

Appearance of rash following wasp attack

Appearance of rash following wasp attack

Drinking water wells

Drinking water wells

Drinking water wells

Drinking water wells

Beauty of Delft

Beauty of Delft

Harmony-These water tanks are specially made for their purpose

Harmony-These water tanks are specially made for their purpose

Giant foot print

Giant foot print

He thinks it's his foot print

He thinks it’s his foot print

Typical for Delft –made by lime stones and corals

Typical for Delft –made by lime stones and corals

Foundation of Pagodas

Foundation of Pagodas

Happy at least this part is protected

Happy at least this part is protected

Foundation of the pagoda few years ago.. Taken from Jaffna fort information center. Compare the difference

Foundation of the pagoda few years ago.. Taken from Jaffna fort information center. Compare the difference

Swimming beach of Delft

Swimming beach of Delft

Giant Baobab tree

Giant Baobab tree

Growing stone

Growing stone

Posed –Changeable Hawk Eagle

Posed –Changeable Hawk Eagle

Couldn't taste it

Couldn’t taste it

Randomly captured

Randomly captured

Karaikattuwan Jetty in return journey

Karaikattuwan Jetty in return journey

Soon after we arrived at Karaikattuwan Jetty we got into a boat to Nainathiw. Time was around 4.30pm.

Entrance of Nagadeepa Temple

Entrance of Nagadeepa Temple

Historical background

Historical background – Click Image to Enlarge

One picture for whole story

One picture for whole story

Pagoda

Pagoda

Image house

Image house

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

On our way back we noticed a board towards another temple called “Buddha Walawwa Viharaya.”

Direction

Direction

This is the only ancient thing we notice

This is the only ancient thing we notice

Naga Pusani Amman Kovil

Naga Pusani Amman Kovil

Nainathiw stone inscription can be seen in the Nagapusani Kovil-Picture by Ashan

Nainathiw stone inscription can be seen in the Nagapusani Kovil-Picture by Ashan

Leaving from Nainathiw

Leaving from Nainathiw

Another evening to Kraikattuwan Jetty

Another evening to Kraikattuwan Jetty

Fortunately caught the last bus to Jaffna at 5.45pm by last boat from Nainathiw. But there is another task in our to-do list. Therefore we got down the town just before Araly point to get a three wheel to reach Araly point where Lt. Gen Denzil Kobbekaduwa was killed by the LTTE.

The road towards this monument is badly damaged.

Tested vehicle

Tested vehicle

List of Heroes

List of Heroes

As there was no option we hired the same three wheels to Jaffna town for reasonable price. Following our Dinner at Myauran café we walked to Udhayan rest.

Day 3

This was our last day of the trip and our main attraction was Point of Pedro. Before go there we had to visit at some places around Jaffna town. Ravi arranged same three wheel in the early morning. He brought us around the Jaffna.

Jaffna City Tour

Sangili arch believed as the entrance to King Sangili palace

Sangili arch believed as the entrance to King Sangili palace

Rajamanthri Walawwa-Recidence of King Sangili’s chief minister

Rajamanthri Walawwa-Recidence of King Sangili’s chief minister

Entrance of Walawwa

Entrance of Walawwa

The roof

The roof

King Sangili Statue

King Sangili Statue

Behind the Sangili statue there was another old building. Later we knew it Kiddu Park-“Kiddu Poonga”. No idea about importance of it.

Kiddu Park

Kiddu Park

Kiddu park

Kiddu park

Yamunari Pond

Yamunari Pond

Jaffna railway station

Jaffna railway station

Jaffna railway station-no rail tracks at all

Jaffna railway station-no rail tracks at all

Order

Order

Up stair of Jaffna railway station

Up stair of Jaffna railway station

Jaffna Clock tower- Built to commemorate the journey of Prince of Wales at 1875

Jaffna Clock tower- Built to commemorate the journey of Prince of Wales at 1875

This was built by governor James Longdon (1877-1884). The architecture was J. Samdir.

This was built by governor James Longdon (1877-1884). The architecture was J. Samdir.

Jaffna Public Library.-Unable to go in as we were so early.

Jaffna Public Library.-Unable to go in as we were so early.

Story of Jaffna Dutch fort

Story of Jaffna Dutch fort – Click Image to Enlarge

Plan of the fort

Plan of the fort

One entrance of the fort

One entrance of the fort

Jaffna fort under renovation of Dutch aids

Jaffna fort under renovation of Dutch aids

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

Jaffna fort

From Jaffna fort

From Jaffna fort

Following visit at Jaffna fort we were dropped to Jaffna bus stand. After having breakfast we got a bus to Point of Pedro. First we wanted to visit at Nilavarari bottomless well.

Nilavarari bottomless well

Have to get down at Puttur on the way to Point of Pedro and take the left hand side road about 2.5km to reach this well situated next to a Kovil.

Nilavarai bottomless well

Nilavarai bottomless well

This is not underwater photography

This is not underwater photography

We reached Point of Pedro town by 11.30 am it was dam hot and dusty. Our schedule was so tight and need to go back to Jaffna town before 7.00pm. We discussed with a three wheel driver with little Tamil and more body language. He gave us a fair charge for our schedule.

First we went to see Point of Pedro light house. You can watch it outside but to get in, needs permission from Navy. However Ashan’s friend has prearranged it and we were able to go inside the light house. But we were reluctant to climb it up.

Point of Pedro light house

Point of Pedro light house

Rising up....

Rising up….

Risky

Risky

Inside

Inside

Educational matters

Educational matters – Click Image to Enlarge

Then he drove along the beach road (I think the most northern road of Sri Lanka) first towards the Point of Pedro Jetty and then most northern point of Sri Lanka-Point of Pedro.

Point of Pedro-Jetty

Point of Pedro-Jetty

Most northern point of Sri Lanka

Most northern point of Sri Lanka

Fishing at point of Pedro

Fishing at point of Pedro

Now we are here

Now we are here – Click Image to Enlarge

Passing point of Pedro, we came to Valvettithurai. The LTTE leader Prabakaran and TELO leader Kuttumani have born here. We wanted to visit at Prabakaran’s house. But no evidence of a house there now.

Everything was demolished now

Everything was demolished now

Then we came to Selva Sanadhi Kovil and Thondaman Aru. Katharagama Pada Yathra begins at Selva Sanadhi Kovil. The river next to this Kovil called Thondaman Aru. It has a shallow water but salty.

Selva Sanadhi Kovil –Katharagama Dewalaya of North

Selva Sanadhi Kovil –Katharagama Dewalaya of North

Inside of the Kovil

Inside of the Kovil

Thondaman Aru

Thondaman Aru

We requested Ireshan to bring us to Vallipuram and then Manalkadu beach. He turned the vehicle back and drove towards Vallipuram Kovil. Vallipuram/sand city has a high archaeological back ground. Currently no evidences can be seen here.

Vallipuram Hindu Kovil

Vallipuram Hindu Kovil

Devotees

Devotees

Colorful

Colorful

Manalkadu is famous for sand dunes. On your way towards Manalkadu beach you can notice a large number of sand dunes and it makes a beautiful picture. Just next to Manalkadu cemetery remaining of Manalkadu Dutch Church is visible.

Manalkadu Sand dunes

Manalkadu Sand dunes

View of Telecommunication tower of Point of Pedro from Manalkadu beach

View of Telecommunication tower of Point of Pedro from Manalkadu beach

Remaining of Manalkadu Dutch church

Remaining of Manalkadu Dutch church

We finished our journey around Point of Pedro and said good bye to Ireshan. He asked only Rs1300 for this round. (about 40-50km)

Fortunately got a quick bus towards Jaffna city from Point of Pedro and came to Archeology museum which is close to Udayan rest.

The caretaker of the museum was very kind and he described it very well and allowed us to take pictures although it is prohibited.(I think he tells everyone taking pictures are prohibited but allow it).

Remains of a Whale's skeleton

Remains of a Whale’s skeleton

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Umbrella rack

Umbrella rack

From Jaffna Archeology museum

From Jaffna Archeology museum

From Jaffna Archeology museum

From Jaffna Archeology museum

“Dolawa”

“Dolawa”

Tamil stone inscription

Tamil stone inscription

Then we walked towards famous Nallur Kovil. It is about 500m away from the archeology museum.

Nallur Kovil-No photography inside the Kovil

Nallur Kovil-No photography inside the Kovil

On our return journey we tasted ice cream from Rio as well.

Famous Rio Ice cream shop-Photo by Ashan

Famous Rio Ice cream shop-Photo by Ashan

It ended our three days visit to Jaffna and got the bus towards Colombo.

Thanks for reading

 

Nuwaragala the castle with a heavenly pond!

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Year and Month May, 2013
Number of Days One day
Crew 2 (3 Civil defense officers with two guns)
Guides 3 Civil defense officers
Accommodation N/A
Transport Trishaw and a bike
Activities Archeology / trekking / hiking & scenery
Weather Gloomy and humid
Route Maha oya -> 69 junction -> Borapola -> Akuloba -> Nuwaragala -> returned back on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take 2 bottles of water per person
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Beware of wild animals, specially elephants
  • Wear suitable attire to overcome the itchy “mana”
  • A guide is needed and a civil defense guy with a gun is preferable
  • Wearing shoes will ease up your journey
  • If you want the contact number of the guide please message me (cannot post it publicly without his
    permission).

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Our main guide Wimalasiri and Priyanjan for the valuable information

Related Resources
  1. Trip Report: Hike to Nuwaragala – Ampara
  2. Blog post: Nuwara Gala – a hidden fortress
  3. Web page: Lesser Known attraction SLTDA
  4. Books: Pacheena passa Uttara passa , Sinhala Buddhist heritage by Ven. Ellawala Medhananda Thero
Author
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
The map

The map – Click to Enlarge

Nuwaragala the fortress on top of a rock in the deep forest of elephant country was once a dream, nevertheless just like many other dreams this one also came true. After getting guidance from Priyanjan who had been there last year, I got together with my friend Dumidu and decided to give it a try. Though it was raining elsewhere and drizzling on and off at Maha oya we went ahead with our plans.
So on a hot and humid day early morning we reached Akuloba Lake where we met Wimalasiri who was our guide for the day. He then took us on his bike towards his home where we were greeted with a cup of tea. From Wimalasiris home we had to walk about 2Km’s towards their “Chena Wadiya” where we rested for about half an hour until Wimalasiri came back with a gun and two more Civil defense guys called Sudu banda and Mahinda. They also brought few mouthwatering water melons which we didn’t forget to taste before setting foot towards the jungle. We did call the officer in charge and got all three soldiers released so they could guide us with no obstacles.

Destination as seen from akuloba lake

Destination as seen from akuloba lake

towards danigala and wahawa

towards danigala and wahawa

wow

wow

starting the 7Km walk

starting the 7Km walk

pesticides used without proper protection

pesticides used without proper protection

hut view

hut view

mode of transport

mode of transport

did you see the foot prints

did you see the foot prints

From Akuloba chena we started creeping towards the forest which was more than a savanna type one than a dense dry zone forest. After about 1Km we reached a road which leads towards the rock which was bulldozed during the war for military purposes (this starts from 32nd mile post Aranthalawa camp as I can recall) and one could easily get to the base of the rock via this road with a normal bike or a 4WD (not the ornamental ones). We did come across few CT-100 bikes which were using the jungle route to transport the milk from their cattle who feed at the base of the rock at few instances. Next 2.5Km was along this said path and because it was a path through savanna land we felt the heat to the maximum, which forced us to have some breaks and taste few watermelons to satisfy our fluid loss.

entering elephant country

entering elephant country

more to go

more to go

elephants dung were found all over

elephants dung were found all over

reaching the base

reaching the base

treasure hunting continues

treasure hunting continues

entering the path

entering the path

When we reached the base of the rock it was around 10.30am and the surrounding scenery at this point was something spectacular. We were suddenly surrounded by mountains on all four sides and we felt like been trapped in an isolated grass patch in middle of nowhere. The initial part of the climb was through a typical dry zone forest patch which showed signs of heavy elephant activity. From the beginning onwards we were walking on an ancient chariot path build by King Sadhdhatissa to get to the top of the rock. Rock plates which were placed on the road and the rocky wall does exist all the way though it had been washed away at many places. Not so far away from the beginning we had to climb uphill through a notoriously tall and evil mana patch which drained our fitness mentally and physically. At around 12.30pm we reached the top of the mountain and my friend fell flat on the rock feeling extremely dehydrated. All of our water stock and watermelons couldn’t rehydrate his 100Kg body. So after about 30 minutes he got up determined to walk towards the heavenly pool in search of a miracle.

ancient rock plated road

ancient rock plated road

the major obstacle

the major obstacle

drainage system

drainage system

on the way scenery towards Ulhitiya

on the way scenery towards Ulhitiya

out of the mana and time for a rest

out of the mana and time for a rest

evidence from the past

evidence from the past

ancient steps

ancient steps

tempitiya lake and barons cap seen far away behind narakamulla range

tempitiya lake and barons cap seen far away behind narakamulla range

note the elephant has rubbed its back

note the elephant has rubbed its back

my favourite

my favourite

lakes at akuloba

lakes at akuloba

Rambaken oya reservoir

Rambaken oya reservoir

finally at the top

finally at the top

mallathugala

mallathugala

Rambaken oya zoomed

Rambaken oya zoomed

plenty of peaks

plenty of peaks

The pond itself is a master piece and located on the edge of the rock with a stunning view towards Rambaken oya. This was surely a royal threat to our tired souls and my friend got a new life after having a dip in this pond which was 5 and a half feet deep with floating elephant dung and hundreds of toads who were jumping over our heads. It was miraculous, we recovered our lost strength within seconds and we didn’t feel like getting out of the pond at all. While we were having a dip Wimalasiri and Mahinda took off to go in search of drinking water from the only known spring on top of Nuwaragala and it took them almost 1 hour to return back. After refreshing ourselves with some fresh water, we had some hoppers for lunch before starting to snap around.

From where we were the eastern cost, Pulukunawa side, Mangalagama, Ethabandi gala, and other mountains of Nuwaragala reserve could be easily seen brushing their shoulders together. Through a small gap the newly built Rambakan oya reservoir also could be seen. The best view was towards Padiyathalawa and Maduru oya reservoir including Omanugala and Thoppigala regions. We also did spot Akuloba and Borapola lakes. Nuwaragala is said to be a fortress which was never completed and the ruins at the summit are suggestive of it.

70 X 80 heavenly pond

70 X 80 heavenly pond

wow it was like amurthaya

wow it was like amurthaya

enjoying a dip

enjoying a dip

part of friars hood could be seen

part of friars hood could be seen

Ethbendagala

Ethbendagala

Kokagala

Kokagala

the pond on the edge

the pond on the edge

aranthalawa and pulukunawa

aranthalawa and pulukunawa

Ethbendagala and mallutugala

Ethbendagala and mallutugala

laid long ago

laid long ago

Ethbendagala full view

Ethbendagala full view

towards batticaloa

towards batticaloa

the eastern ocean

the eastern ocean

rock view

rock view

beautiful scenery

beautiful scenery

47 it started to rain

maduru oya reservoir

maduru oya reservoir

through the bushes

through the bushes

towards ulhitiya reservoir

towards ulhitiya reservoir

 the rain never reached us

the rain never reached us – Click to enlarge

 the savana in middle of the mountain belt

the savana in middle of the mountain belt

After snapping around we descended towards the huge cave which once even had a brick wall with pillars and it been on the slope of the rock produced some stunning scenery. There is a long inscription just below the drip ledge saying it was done by king Saddathissa and his son Lajjathissa who offered this to the clergy. So it is believed that this unfinished fortress was later converted in to a monastery complex.

steep drop from the cave

steep drop from the cave

cave view

cave view

team spirit

team spirit

wow

wow

57 splendid view

splendid view

what a place to rest

what a place to rest

pano from the cave

pano from the cave

view towards padiyathalawa

view towards padiyathalawa

wow again

wow again

this is what idiots have done

this is what idiots have done

inscription

inscription

note the groove on the ground which once harboured a wall

note the groove on the ground which once harbored a wall

towards Namal oya forest

towards Namal oya forest

trying to imitate saradiel

trying to imitate saradiel

another view from the cave

another view from the cave

elephants do come to this cave

elephants do come to this cave

couldnt resist clicking around

couldnt resist clicking around

if i could fly

if i could fly

Akuloba area

Akuloba area

After having a chat while enjoying the panoramic view from the cave we began our descend through the hazardous Mana patch and reached the base, to find a mini stream to wash off the fur of mana. Since it was turning dark and the Elephants start to roam out of the deep forest, we had to rush back towards the village. Somehow we had walked roughly 14Km’s for the day and that plus the difficulties faced with the humidity and Mana we were feeling exhausted. At such a time a fresh “Pani Dodam” (2 glasses) drink which Wimalasiri’s wife offered to us was the medicine we needed for a speedy recovery. After thanking our newly met friends and offering something for their service which they provided, we decided to head back towards Maha Oya. After reaching the hospital of Maha oya, I had a clean wash and continued 150 Km’s in a bus standing all the way to Monaragala and that was the most difficult part of the day for me and my legs.

Quote

Believed to be the hideout of Prince Saddatissa during his time of rancor with his brother the great King of Sri Lanka King Dutugamunu, Nuwaragala according to prominent archeologist Ellawala Medhananda Thera was a monastery built by King LajjaThissa, who ruled the country 119-109 BC. 

A stone paved pathway with a width of nearly 20 feet leads to the top of the mountain and to a large drip ledged cave, which can comfortably house nearly 150 people. The cave has been partitioned with brick walls and had had a plastered and decorated interior but the walls and the inner plaster is in ruins today.

Further uphill is a pond, an eternal water source to the creatures of the wild today, but would have been initially built to cater hundreds of arhant monks, who whiled away in meditation. The ruins of monastery spread in and around Nuwaragala as witness to the prosperity of monastery during the first century BC. One of the most prominent among is the ruins is a statue house, which would have been built nearly three hundred years after the initial construction of the monastery. 

According to some archeologists Nuwaragala could have been the Girinuwara, the famed city of Prince Giri Abaya, the partner of Princess Soma, the sister of King Kawanthissa. Sinhala historical chronicles Datuwansa records Prince DutuGamunu visiting the site with a Minister named Dava. A confrontation between the uncle and nephew broke up the kingdom and Prince Giri Abaya eventually left to SeruNuwara abandoning his mountain fortress.

Today this mountain fortress turned monastery is in the homeland of a Vedda community, who lives in and around Pollebedda, few miles away from Nuwaragala, in a well-known vedda village immortalized in Dr. Spittel’s books

Omanugala peak

Omanugala peak

plenty of mondanocks

plenty of mondanocks

descending along the ancient path

descending along the ancient path

the ancient rocky road leading to the summit

the ancient rocky road leading to the summit

at last ground zero

at last ground zero

 interesting shape of Pettigala

interesting shape of Pettigala

getting back

getting back

they were everywhere

they were everywhere

after a 4km walk this was are temporary resting place

after a 4km walk this was are temporary resting place

hmm rolling dung(please dont squash them)

hmm rolling dung(please dont squash them)

didnt have to use them

didnt have to use them

good bye nuwaragala

good bye nuwaragala

Thanks for reading!

 


Moon Walkers on a Quest of Their Own – Kalthota

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Year and Month June, 2013 (23rd)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 9 (Age: Classified) – Sri’s Nine Troop – Danushka and his wife (Thilini) and his friend (Harsha), Tony, Athula and his friend Prasanna, Wuminda and Prince.
Accommodation N/A
Transport Hired Van (Very reasonable rates – Call if you need a reliable vehicle at a very low cost), Ajith – 0711-647430, Sanjeewa – 0776-616623
Activities Hiking / Photography / Waterfall Hunting
Weather Excellent for hiking and sight-seeing (It was dark, gloomy and even raining at times but miraculously didn’t bother our plans at all)
Route Battaramulla -> Wijerama -> Kottawa -> Avissawella -> Ratnapura -> Balangoda -> Kalthota Doovili Ella via Rajawaka and Thanjanthenna -> Kuragala -> Kalthota -> Budugala -> Diyawinna -> Balangoda -> Colombo along A4
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Avoid rainy season as much as possible coz it can be difficult and slippery at places.
  • You have to buy tickets to visit Doovili Ella (Rs. 20/- each and Rs. 30/- for the vehicle) and can be bought at the ticket office at the entrance about 1km before the falls.
  • Try to visit the fall as early as possible coz it’ll help you take in the beauty in peace without others poking about. Interestingly I learnt from Harsha and Danushka (two professional photographers) that if you wanna picture a waterfall, morning is the ideal time if not afternoon when the Sun is not so fierce.
  • You can buy food and drinks at the shop near the fall. They’ll even arrange you lunch if you order in time.
  • Parking available at the Doovili Ella and you have to take around 370 steps down to the falls (According to Tony and his sons).
  • You can go to the top of the falls and bathing can be tricky as there’s no safe pool like thing. So be mindful should you feel like a dip.
  • You have to take the road back along the way you went to Doovili Ella passing Thanjanthenna to Kuragala. Along the way you’ll come across a board on the left “Galtamyaya Kurudiyawala Purana Viharaya” which is worth a visit.
  • It can be very difficult climbing the Kuragala as no shelter and you’re fully exposed to the angry Sun. However, there’s always a nice breeze which will make things a lot better.
  • There’s a cave on top of Kuragala which allegedly leads to Budugala Temple about 1km away (as the crow flies) and you can explore this for about 100m and there after the roof has fallen and can’t go any further. In fact be real careful if you attempt this as there are hundreds of Bats and they can get flustered by your intrusion.
  • Powerful torch is a must for cave exploration watch your step and head at all times.
  • To reach Budugala, best way is go to Kalthota and turn right towards Diyawinna and from there it’s only about 4.5km.
  • Budugala has two sections: The archaeological site and the temple complex. You can see the other entrance of the cave from Kuragala at the temple complex but can’t go any further as the roof had fallen and completely covered the path.
  • From Budugala, it’s about another 6km away is the Diyawini falls at Diyawinna Village. She can be clearly seen from the main road but can get closer. Take the right from the board saying “Sri Dewagiri Raja Maha Gallen Viharay” and take 1km to the temple and from there only 500m according to the villages to the base of the falls.
  • Carry water as the condition of the water especially at the waterways are not so sure. Sun hats will come handy if it’s sunny.
  • Take millions of pics but don’t litter or leave anything except your foot prints behind.
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“The Milky Way – up on the Heavens; is tinkling just for you.
And Mr. Moon – he came by; to say good night to you”

That’s my phone ringing taking me out of my trance into the real world. “Pick the darn thing, will ya” my colleague is yelling at me. I dragged lazily outta my chair and rummage in my drawer and find the phone to see Wuminda is calling.

“Hi Sri, it’s Shalika here” – that’s his other name and I recognize him immediately.
“Yo, what’s up” I reply in typical horrendous made-up British Accent.
“Poson is coming and what we gonna do?” – Birds of a feather flock together, I think coz I too was pondering over it just a minute ago.
“Nothing special but how about a one-day then to Kalthota Doovili Ella?”
“Sounds great and let’s get the folks” – he hangs up leaving me dreaming of Doovili Ella, open-mouthed as if I had seen the most beautiful girl in the world.

Immediately after our somewhat successful journey to the Bathalegala, I started looking for options for another journey and came across Kalthota Doovili Ella from Harinda and Prince. After our unsuccessful attempt at Asupini Ella, I was planning on visiting her again but intermittent rains kept me isolated only in my dreams. So Wuminda’s phone call was a disguised blessing and I immediately formed a group called “Balangoda” on Facebook and sent the requests to my former crew.
The response was great but Harinda (newly employed fella) wasn’t so sure about the journey and to make matters worse Dana confirmed that the van we used is not available this time. So much for a grand start :-(

I then asked everyone to keep an eye for a van with reasonable and affordable rates and started looking for one or two new crew members. (Harinda certainly took space for two :-) ) Tony and Harinda both suggested we get Athula to join and what a great choice it turned out to be. He and his friend Prasanna confirmed the attendance and Prince came up with a telephone number for a low-cost van.

When I called it they promised to send a van with a seating capacity of 10 (plus two jumping seats) for just Rs. 30/- km. (They usually charge 35/- but when I said we would be hitting 350+km the rate got reduced dramatically.) Harinda’s absence left us with a sense of down feeling but thankfully all the others willingly confirmed their attendance.

Falling Head over Heels in Love...

Falling Head over Heels in Love…

The date was set for 23 June (Poson Full Moon Poya Day) and we eagerly waited for the day to arrive. I’m sure you’re curious about the name “Moon walkers”, aren’t you? There were only two moon walking I had heard before: 1. Astronauts’ walk on the moon (Neil Armstrong, Edwin Aldrin & Co.) 2. World famous Michael Jackson’s dancing style.

So why call ourselves Moonwalkers? Coz we did our first hike together on Vesak Full Moon Poya Day and this was on Poson Full Moon Poya Day… so coincidentally, we seem to take a liking to the Moon. Thus the name “Moon Walkers”.

The van picked Wuminda, Prince, Athula and Tony from Battarmulla around 4.30am came to Embuldeniya for me and Wijerama for Harsha and finally Dana and Thilini from Kottawa. Did I say finally? Not quite coz Athula’s friend Prasanna was waiting at Kaluaggala

There went the Moon Walkers away happily talking to the dozen. Athula’s addition brought in more Socio-Geo-Political topics and Prince was stranded at the front seat without a companion for his tailor-made stories. (Kumarage Agiya Katha) However, he wasn’t to be bowed down as we saw he had Ajith (our driver) engaged in some serious talk and I got the jitters immediately coz we wanted Ajith to be in his proper senses till the day end. Meanwhile Tony was furious with me for not letting him write Bathalegala trip report. He kept complaining that he had everything planned and I ruined his plans. What could I say? Then I offered him this report but he flatly refused saying he’s still mastering his typing skills at a night school.

Afterwards, Dana became Prince’s prey and no stopping since then. As usual, our food coordinator and meal director Wuminda didn’t forget his duty to gently remind us of breakfast. Prince kept missing the shops as he was so engrossed in engaging others with his never-ending mixed-up stories and we decided to take the job ourselves and soon found a posh-looking place in between Kuruwita and Ratnapura. (Bad me coz didn’t get a pic of the place or its name)

Breakfast buffet was 300/- each (I’m not sure after yesterday, 23 June) and we attacked it like hungry wolves. The attack was so surprising and ruthless the catering staff had difficulty bringing the food from the kitchen and I’m almost sure I saw the manager rubbing his chest as if having a heart attack. That must’ve been the first day they went on a loss from the day they started. They didn’t wait for us to ask for the bill. As soon as they realized that the bombardment is about to come to an end, the bill was presented. I almost felt sorry for them. Having filled all the compartments of our tummies to the brim, we left for Balangoda.

Note: over numerous chit-chat there were some stories I wish I could share with you folks but unfortunately I was threatened at gunpoint not to reveal any of them. So I’m gonna have to save them for some other time.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Doovili Ella, Kalthota
  2. Galtamyaya Ruins, Thanjanthenna
  3. Kuragala Buddhist Monastery
  4. Budugala Archaeological Site
  5. Budugala Raja Maha Viharaya
  6. Diyawini Ella

We reached Balangoda around 9.00am turned to the Kalthota Road where we need to take another 27km. Passing Wikiliya, Rajawaka, Kuragala, Thanjanthenna to the Doovili Ella.

 

Doovili Ella, Kalthota

Little did we know that one member of the crew had a more sentimental reason to join this trip as he’d had some love affair thing in Kalthota area. (Don’t ask me who it is but he’s bound to beat Usain Bolt any day providing you show him a leech) You need to take a left where there’s a sign board saying “Doovili Ella Tourist Development Project” and drive about 1km to the entrance gate where you need to buy tickets. (20/- per person and 30/- for the vehicle)

Along the road, drive another 1km or so to the shop, the first viewing platform (not so great a view) and the parking. (The road actually in a not-too-bad condition however, if it’s a car with a low ground clearance, might need to be a bit careful.) From there, it’s about 370 steps drop to the second viewing platform which gives you grandeur view (Tony and his sons once counted the steps and three out of four got 370). There’s a path running to the right at the bottom and take it passing the proposed children play area for a wonderful face-to-face encounter with one of the most beautiful girls in the whole wide world.

I fell head over heel in love with her immediately, it was love at first. She’s second to none, lemme tell you. The top is very narrow and the water is gushing down at a ferocious face making her getting wider and wider till she hits the bottom some 40m down to the rock pool which looks real deep. For our utmost joy, she was in near full flow due to the last couple weeks’ rain in the upcountry. She’s the main stream of the Walawe River that originates from sacred Adam’s Peak and flows to the Indian Ocean at Ambalanthota.

Well from then onwards, it was a frenzy of camera activity and posing for pictures. Continuous click of shutters couldn’t match the roar of the fall that makes some noise. After about half hour we decided to take the same path and go along to the top of the fall. On the top it’s a mixture of rocks and gushing water streams and rock pools. Further up you come across a larger pool with a tiny cascade which I called “Singithi Doovili Ella”.

More pictures and poses till we realized that we’re running outta time pretty fast for our liking and decided to bid our farewell to this gorgeous girlie. Came up the steps to the shop and had some nice plain tea and milk tea (bear in mind the shop doesn’t have electricity, at least not yet – now I’m not about to initiate a project to give them power just like Meemure :-) coz it’s not a dire need for them) and hit the road for a short walk till the rest of the crew got back.

The view along the road was simply magnificent and we almost walked up to the gate itself before the van caught up with us.

The Breakfast feast almost sent them outta business

The Breakfast feast almost sent them outta business

The sign where you need to take a left turn

The sign where you need to take a left turn – Click Image to Enlarge

First view from the top viewing platform, not a clear one though

First view from the top viewing platform, not a clear one though

Weather beaten sign post - all the animals shown there not in site

Weather beaten sign post – all the animals shown there not in site

Just starting towards bottom

Just starting towards bottom

The younger fellows coming down with ease

The younger fellows coming down with ease

What an opening to the second tier

What an opening to the second tier

First glimpse from the second tier... irresistible

First glimpse from the second tier… irresistible

Up close... full flow

Up close… full flow

Coming around to the front of the falls

Coming around to the front of the falls

More and more

More and more

Feel like hugging

Feel like hugging

Can it get any better than this?

Can it get any better than this?

Nine-Troop - mission accomplished

Nine-Troop – mission accomplished

Children's play area

Children’s play area

Coming to the top, full of rocks, watch your feet

Coming to the top, full of rocks, watch your feet

The "Singithi Doovili Ella" on top

The “Singithi Doovili Ella” on top

Wide angle...

Wide angle…

The river Walawe slowly but steadily flows to make one of the greatest falls of the whole wide world

The river Walawe slowly but steadily flows to make one of the greatest falls of the whole wide world

See the water gushing through the tiny gap

See the water gushing through the tiny gap

Going towards the south where she joins Indian Ocean

Going towards the south where she joins Indian Ocean

Side view up close

Side view up close

The dark-green base pool (must be real deep)

The dark-green base pool (must be real deep)

Water hitting at a ferocious pace

Water hitting at a ferocious pace

370 steps

370 steps

The shop at the steps entrance...

The shop at the steps entrance…

Took a walk up towards the entrance

Took a walk up towards the entrance

The road in somewhat acceptable state

The road in somewhat acceptable state

It's grand view

It’s grand view

Galtamyaya Ruins, Thanjanthenna

We turned to the right towards Balangoda to go see Kuragala, our next in line. However, along the way in Thanjanthenna, we came across this archaeological sign “Galtamyaya Gurudiyawala Purana Viharaya” and out of sheer curiosity we decided to take a quick peek and it turned out to be a well spent half hour or so at the premises.

It boasts remains of a Stupa and foundation of a huge Buddhist monastery complex and the whole land was more than one acre in size bordered by a chain link fence with a pad locked gate. There was nobody around to ask about the remains so after we decided to go to the main attraction of Kuragala.

The board displaying Galtamyaya

The board displaying Galtamyaya

Looks familiar right? If they think we can preserve these archaeological sites and keep the treasure hunters away by putting up boards like these, well we won't have anything to go see very soon

Looks familiar right? If they think we can preserve these archaeological sites and keep the treasure hunters away by putting up boards like these, well we won’t have anything to go see very soon – Click Image to Enlarge

Excavated to get the foundation

Excavated to get the foundation

The entrance to the building

The entrance to the building

Scattered stone pillars

Scattered stone pillars

Pity there was no one to inquire about

Pity there was no one to inquire about

The stupa still standing tall showing the strong architectural creativity of our ancestors

The stupa still standing tall showing the strong architectural creativity of our ancestors

Possible to get to the stage around the Stupa

Possible to get to the stage around the Stupa

Might there have been a shelter covering the whole Stupa

Might there have been a shelter covering the whole Stupa

Outer wall

Outer wall

A notice... Treasure hunters don't bother reading these I guess

A notice… Treasure hunters don’t bother reading these I guess – Click Image to Enlarge

Having a much needed rest under the Mango trees

Having a much needed rest under the Mango trees

Kuragala Buddhist Monastery

Went along the Kalthota towards Balangoda about 2km or so and the sign is there saying Kuragala and took the left turn. There was a Dansala but we simply didn’t have enough time and the queue was a bit too long for our liking even though those people kept pestering us to come have some food. Along the road (which is not in very good condition but passable) we drove another about 1km till we reached a parking area over flowing with vehicles and devotes in white clothes coz it was the Poson Poya.

It was the midday and the sun was angrily showing his rays but we were not to be discouraged. We got off the vehicle at the bottom of the rock and ask Ajith to wait for us at the car park (You have to pay 50/-) and started our ascent. There were hundreds of people milling around and for our great relief there was soft drinks Dansala and two glasses of them went down our parched throats tickling us. We saw some houses built along the path for the Muslim devotees who came there but now look abandoned and one housed a police post.

Further up, we came to the archaeological site and the sign said “Kuragala Archaeological Reserve: Remains of an Ancient Buddhist Monastery Circa 2nd Century B.C.”. We could see the illegal construction had been removed and piled along and the Kuragala Rock was standing majestically. The Muslim people had gone there and built it into one of their own worshipping places after an incident in 1938 according to Tony.

-There had been this person called Abdul Cader Jelani and he’d spent a life of a hermit for about 12 years at the caves there after his wife left him. People took pity to him and he was apparently a very good person. After his death, he was buried there and Muslim people started worshipping the place building numerous structures as a result so many writings and archeologically important things were destroyed-. This is what we got from Tony and the true nature of the story couldn’t be independently verified.

Anyhow, it’s clear that this place was a Buddhist Monastery and inability and inefficiency of our Archeological Department and relevant officials had caused so much irreparable damage to the place. I’m sure so many places like these are hidden in especially in the East without so much of a visit from them. Treasure hunters and other lunatics keep destroying them and it’s such a pity. All those construction work carried out by those people after 1938 must have destroyed so much valuable stone scripts, caves, paintings and many more. The damage is definitely irreparable.

The view from the rock is simply magnificent and aspiring. We came across a Giant Squirrel mother who was feeding on fresh seeds at a nearby tree. Harsha and I spent almost half hour picturing the lady and others had to wait at the top of the rock for our arrival to visit the cave. On the top of the rock is so windy and it must be around 60-70kmph. We kept joking that the fishermen in that area can’t have gone fishing due to strong winds. I thought if the Met department actually meant the winds on top of Kuragala rather than along the coast.

We could see the Budugala Temple from the top clearly and the Stupa was in pristine white surrounded by Buddhist flags. Down below freshly grown paddy fields beaming with vibrant green as if a carpet had been laid. You can keep looking at them without knowing the time fly. Such great medicine for our souls and lifting our spirits so high making you feel ten feet tall. I was over the moon.

There was a split rock and underneath (had to lie down and look up) you can see a foot print but clearly not visible nor able to picture. After so much clicking and posing we went to the stump of the Stupa remaining on the top and thankfully someone bothered to cover around it with a fence.

Then it was time to get down about 20feet to explore the cave. Prasanna who had a torch over his forehead went with Tony followed by Prince and I while Dana and Thilini bringing the rear. I suddenly remembered “Vietnamese Tunnel Rats” and coincidently we had talked about them too on our way. It was pitching dark and our torches had to work over time to pierce it. After about 100ft we came to a somewhat steep hole in the rock which is very narrow (about 1ft in width) entrance. Prasanna, Tony and one other fellow from another group had already at the bottom trying to get further in.

There were hundreds of bats hanging from the rock surface looking angrily at us for disturbing their afternoon siesta. There were Batmen and Batwomen with their Battren (similar to Children) frowning at us coz we had invaded their kingdom violating all Bat rights. If I’m not mistaken they were gonna submit a petition strongly protesting our intervention at their annual conference at Vavulpane. There’ll be lots of Bat(s)men playing there.

Our torch beams made them go crazy and we did our best not to antagonize them. I felt like a joke and just out of nowhere said “Prince, there’re leeches”. You should’ve seen the horror on his face as if seen the Satan himself. He turned at an alarming speed and Thilini shouted not to push her coz he and Tony had a very hilarious experience at Asupini Ella.

While Tony, Thilini and Harsha with Prince coming up the hill after us to see Asupini Ella, Tony had found a couple of leeches on his arm and shown Thilini and Prince. That was more than enough to send him out of his mind and run for his life pushing Thilini out of the way. So she was very scared when Prince turned like an angry bull about to charge at the fella with a red scarf and I held onto him dearly coz I didn’t want Thilini or anyone else getting hammered on his frantic run to safety.

It was so funny and we couldn’t stop laughing even though Thilini felt otherwise. Then we heard that the path wasn’t going nowhere from below as the roof had fallen blocking the tunnel. So Tony climbed back up and it was Prasanna’s turn to come up and it was so frightening to see him struggling to come up past the narrow gap pushing himself up. He was a bit rotund (not as much as a Sumo Player though) and kept turning this way and that way squeezing himself to fit into that gap gasping, frantically trying to get a grip on the rock surface to push up.

Finally he managed to get his sorry self up and the person below him heaved a sigh of relief. So anyone attempting to tackle this tunnel would be better off not trying it especially if you have small children.

We turned around and came back to the safety leaving those bats in peace. It was so annoying to see people taking small kids into the cave even after we told them that it wasn’t safe to do so. Such stupidity is only heard here in SL I suppose. If something happens to anyone there’ll be a major uproar from media and public and the place will get closed down.

Getting up

Getting up

Steps carved in the stone

Steps carved in the stone

Signs of a bushfire evident

Signs of a bushfire evident

Entering into the archaeological site

Entering into the archaeological site

The remains of the dislodged constructions at the bottom of the picture

The remains of the dislodged constructions at the bottom of the picture

Had to wait a long time till the people went away so that the pic will come nice and clean

Had to wait a long time till the people went away so that the pic will come nice and clean

The top is clearly visible, reminds me of Mihintale

The top is clearly visible, reminds me of Mihintale

He's very playful, ain't he?

He’s very playful, ain’t he?

Just wondering what to do with it I suppose

Just wondering what to do with it I suppose

Standing tall watching everything

Standing tall watching everything

One of the caves and looks as if destroyed by the modifications done lately

One of the caves and looks as if destroyed by the modifications done lately

Must have been another caves with possible writings and important evidence, but those construction have destroyed all that I guess

Must have been another caves with possible writings and important evidence, but those construction have destroyed all that I guess

What would you call this? Heavenly

What would you call this? Heavenly

56 Budugala Temple and the Stupa on top of the rock

56 Budugala Temple and the Stupa on top of the rock

Miles of paddy fields and to the mountain ranges

Miles of paddy fields and to the mountain ranges

Don't misunderstand - it's not velvet laid on the ground or a wall painting... newly planted paddy field with a hut in the middle

Don’t misunderstand – it’s not velvet laid on the ground or a wall painting… newly planted paddy field with a hut in the middle

Not my strong point - Panorama 1

Not my strong point – Panorama 1

Panorama 2

Panorama 2

Giant squirrel mum (pretty obvious, isn’t it?)

Giant squirrel mum (pretty obvious, isn’t it?)

She might even be pregnant

She might even be pregnant

Munching happily without a care in the world

Munching happily without a care in the world

Noticed us photographing and trying to hide

Noticed us photographing and trying to hide

Narrow pass to reach the top - just like at Dambadeniya (does this mean this used to be a fort)

Narrow pass to reach the top – just like at Dambadeniya (does this mean this used to be a fort)

Right at the top towards Kalthota

Right at the top towards Kalthota

Never ending greenery

Never ending greenery

Pagoda on top - thankfully covered with a fence

Pagoda on top – thankfully covered with a fence

Must be centuries old

Must be centuries old

The entrance area seen from the top

The entrance area seen from the top

Entrance to the cave - see those wall writing and there used to be a structure here as well (What a waste?)

Entrance to the cave – see those wall writing and there used to be a structure here as well (What a waste?)

Tony and Prince leading the way

Tony and Prince leading the way

Thilini is not to be restrained

Thilini is not to be restrained

Kingdom of Bats...

Kingdom of Bats…

They both were there - Batman and Batwoman with their battren (similar to children)

They both were there – Batman and Batwoman with their battren (similar to children)

They were getting deeper away from our beams

They were getting deeper away from our beams

Angry looking Bat-grand father

Angry looking Bat-grand father

Tony trying to come out coz there was no clear path any further

Tony trying to come out coz there was no clear path any further

A touch rotund Prasanna doing his best to squeeze himself to fit into that gap

A touch rotund Prasanna doing his best to squeeze himself to fit into that gap

Horror-stricken Prasanna... it's written all over his face

Horror-stricken Prasanna… it’s written all over his face

Tunnel rats heading back

Tunnel rats heading back

The difficult pass coming up on our way downhill

The difficult pass coming up on our way downhill

Tony showing that he got a new job at the Post office (helping to glue envelopes and stamps)

Tony showing that he got a new job at the Post office (helping to glue envelopes and stamps)

Budugala Archeological Site

We came to the Kalthota junction narrowly avoiding getting wet in the splashing rain and took the right turn towards Budugala which is 4.5km away. Along the way, stopped for a quick Wade and water as we hadn’t had anything from breakfast and Prasanna and Wuminda weren’t too happy about it.

Then we reached the Budugala Archeological site and it reminded me of Yapahuwa. There were remains of foundations and we could go up along the built in stone steps. We climbed about 150-200ft and on top there was another foundation of two adjoining palaces maybe. There was a narrow path going further uphill but we had no time to explore it and left it at that.

Those distances were spot on

Those distances were spot on

Holding itself together

Holding itself together

Entering into the premises

Entering into the premises

One of many

One of many

View from the steps

View from the steps

Reminds me of Yapahuwa even though they are in tatters

Reminds me of Yapahuwa even though they are in tatters

All these tree had this strange parting at the bottom... wonder why

All these tree had this strange parting at the bottom… wonder why

On her way down, looking very tired and flatly refused to go any further

On her way down, looking very tired and flatly refused to go any further

We kept going up

We kept going up

Nearly at the top

Nearly at the top

More foundations

More foundations

Twin towers?

Twin towers?

Seems like an old urinal

Seems like an old urinal

Budugala Raja Maha Viharaya

About 100m towards Diyawinna we came to the temple. It was so beautiful and had a replica of the Adam’s Peak taking us up and around rocks passing four Devala. Near one of Devalaya, we saw the other entrance to the cave originates from the top of Kuragala. There was a board saying entering is dangerous and it certainly looked so. There was a giant Buddha statue and was looking very serene. Out we came and on the other side was the climb to the Stupa another 50-60ft up. It was very nicely done and on top you can see miles of paddy fields and small and then larger mountains in the very far. Such grand landscape.

We saw the Kuragala rock from the temple and wish could spend the night on top camping.

.

.

Entering the temple

Entering the temple

Kuragala seen from the temple

Kuragala seen from the temple

Replica of Adam's peak

Replica of Adam’s peak

The Stupa holding rock and the bell tower

The Stupa holding rock and the bell tower

Entrance to the Adma's peak replica

Entrance to the Adma’s peak replica

Budu Medura

Budu Medura

Climbing up

Climbing up

That's a masterpiece

That’s a masterpiece

Balanced to the square millimeter

Balanced to the square millimeter

Stupa seen from Adam's peak replica top

Stupa seen from Adam’s peak replica top

Just like Adam's peak, you have to put your forehead on the stage there

Just like Adam’s peak, you have to put your forehead on the stage there

Rising majestically into the sky

Rising majestically into the sky

It must have been really difficult to get all these done amid so many barriers

It must have been really difficult to get all these done amid so many barriers

Famous Budugala caves

Famous Budugala caves

Keep away boys... (other end of the Kuragala tunnel)

Keep away boys… (other end of the Kuragala tunnel)

Frightening, don't attempt it

Frightening, don’t attempt it

Mesmerizing

Mesmerizing

.

.

Getting up to the Stupa

Getting up to the Stupa

She's practicing rock sliding

She’s practicing rock sliding

Full of people the day being Poson

Full of people the day being Poson

Very soothing to the eyes and mind

Very soothing to the eyes and mind

This was Tony's idea of an angle

This was Tony’s idea of an angle

Green, green and more green

Green, green and more green

Bidding our farewell

Bidding our farewell

Diyawini Ella

After that around 5.00pm, while the dusk was falling around us we decided to hit the road and go see Diyawini Ella as well coz didn’t wanna miss her having come so close. Thankfully Athula had one of his friends, Indrajith, who knew the area met with us near the temple on his bike. He told us that we can see the falls and wasn’t sure if we can get near her.

We stepped on the gas and after about another 5-6km reached a place where we saw the gorgeous Diyawini Ella over the lush greenish paddy fields. Screaming at Ajith to stop the van, we got off as if trying to abduct someone and I saw Dana already setting the tripod on the road for a professional pic. She was so beautiful even though not in her best dress and Athula and Tony had to practically drag us back into the van saying that we could get closer.

Then we came to the sign board on the right announcing it was the road to the “Sri Devagiri Purana Gallen Viharaya” 1km away and Indrajith pointed we can get near the falls through the temple. While Athula was discussing with him, we kept hitting the shutter button. Then off towards temple we stopped near a house which had a grand view of the falls 24/7. I felt so jealous of the residents and hearing my complaints Tony and Athula even tried to bring a proposal from that house supposing there’s a girl there (I’m not saying they look like my uncles :-)  I wouldn’t certainly have minded on the condition of having that house as the dowry.

Along the road we kept taking pictures while the Sun trying his best to give us optimal lighting for our pictures. Tony said that there was an abandoned house and I felt like bunking down there for the night and start picturing her in the morning sun. However, Prince kept saying it must be haunted and we might be dragged outta our beds in the night by those spirits.

We came right up to the temple where a small notice nailed to a coconut tree said “Diyawini Ella” and I wish it was early morning.

It was really dark by then and we bid our farewell to that majestic lady while Dana questioned if she was the one who can be seen from the Udawalawa Dam. After some conference, we figured it might be and we all wanted to come during the day for her and then go to Udawalawa for confirmation. (I guess one of the members could verify this for us)

To be honest, we were over the moon even though felt knackered physically. It was very well spent 12+ hours on the road and I don’t think it could’ve gone any better. We followed the Diaywinna-Kapugala road till we came to a junction where a right turn directed us back onto the Kalthota road to Balangoda. We heard a slight mourning coming from the front seat and I figured it must be the sentimental guy I mentioned at the beginning coz Ajith, our driver, had no reason to do that.

Well folks, it was hard getting all these facts onto my fairy tale and hope it will keep you busy for a good hour or two going through top to bottom. As I mentioned somewhere at the beginning I’m not allowed to put some very interesting stories here. It was so nice being with my 9-Troop and many more will surely follow.

P.S. I shot three short video clips of Doovili Ella and Kuragala which I uploaded to Youtube. I’ve given the links below and do take a look at them as well and leave your feedback.

First glimpse, jumped outta Van like Army training

First glimpse, jumped outta Van like Army training

I simply love these colors

I simply love these colors

Getting closer

Getting closer

Thilini got their name, can't remember now

Thilini got their name, can’t remember now

One of my favorite picture taking places... paddy fields

One of my favorite picture taking places… paddy fields

Just got to the turning

Just got to the turning

There it is... that 1km is spot on

There it is… that 1km is spot on – Click Image to Enlarge

Kept clicking the shutter

Kept clicking the shutter

Reaching to her

Reaching to her

This must be a terrific shower

This must be a terrific shower

Athula in a hurry to get closer – This is the view from the house I mentioned about… pretty envious

Athula in a hurry to get closer – This is the view from the house I mentioned about… pretty envious

Top of the fall, there's this unusual curving there

Top of the fall, there’s this unusual curving there

Hand-held twilight feature getting some decent shots

Hand-held twilight feature getting some decent shots

No complaints here... more paddy fields... more the merrier

No complaints here… more paddy fields… more the merrier

Getting dark by the minute

Getting dark by the minute

I kept bumping into little ones right throughout

I kept bumping into little ones right throughout

Running towards the temple

Running towards the temple

Wish it was morning...

Wish it was morning…

Not in full flow, but more than enough to keep me engrossed

Not in full flow, but more than enough to keep me engrossed

The nailed sign on the coconut tree

The nailed sign on the coconut tree

Just took this pic of the entrance of the temple...

Just took this pic of the entrance of the temple…

 

The Village way of experiencing Vesak around Maduru oya

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Year and Month May, 2013
Number of Days 2 consecutive days
Crew 2
Accommodation First day at Ampara hospital with my friend Chanaka, Second day at Maha oya Nadeesha rest
Transport A Car
Activities Archeology / wild life / sight seen
Weather Hot and Humid
Route
  • D1: Monaragala -> Siyambalanduwa -> Ampara -> Uhana -> Maha Oya -> Rambakan oya -> Maha Oya -> Maduru Oya -> Maha oya 
  • D2: Maha oya -> Padiyathalawa -> Dambana -> Ulhitiya -> Rathkinda -> Henanigala -> Kudagala -> Dehiaththakandiya -> Aralaganvila -> Kandegama -> Maduru oya -> Maha Oya
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Get permission from the head priest
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Behave accordingly at hermitages
  • Explain your intentions clearly
  • My main intention is creating awareness, if you need more information I can email you few images taken from Ellawala Medananda thero’s book.
Related Resources
  1. Web page: Lesser Known attraction SLTDA
  2. Books: Digamadulu wandana gamana , Sinhala Baudda Urumaya by Ven Ellawala Medhananda thero
Author
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
map of maduru oya - Click to enlarge

map of maduru oya – Click to enlarge

The coming weekend was Vesak holidays and there would be plenty of free food everywhere waiting for me to have a taste. So I decided to hang around Maha oya and experience the village style of celebrating Vesak though my main objective was visiting few archaeology sites. I got together with my batch mate Chanaka and arrived at Maha oya leisurely at around 9am and after having some breakfast we wanted to visit one of the Mega irrigation projects which was underway. It was a 19Km drive along Rathmalgaha ela dusty road to reach Rambaken oya reservoir and on the way we also noted roughly about 4 or 5 new lakes been completely restored and the canal system connecting each other was reconstructed in parallel with Rambaken oya reservoir project. I have never seen a huge project like this in Sri Lanka, so I recommend you guys to go and see this newly built reservoir which is located at a beautiful location on the outskirts of Gal oya national park. Though the reservoir is not fully done there is some water staged up with weeds. The most fascinating finding is the ancient canal system running away from the ancient dam located at the same location signifying that this reservoir was once a fully functional one. To get to this canal system (also called watawala kandiya) one needs to take a left turn just before the newly built dam where a rock symbol can be found. It is indeed an engineering miracle. I wonder how the huge rocky plates were fitted together. The lock system was so simple and successful that it still holds on. We did experience how the local villages came in tractors to see the reservoir while visiting other lesser known temples in the region. This is something totally different from the “Vesak” rounds people do in urban areas and this seems to be the correct way of spending Vesak day other than religious activities. To our surprise each and every archaeology site we visited had loads of local visitors who traveled by tractors.

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Rambakan oya
Once dammed and tamed by the great Kings of Sri Lanka like King Saddatissa and Parakramabahu the great Rambakan Oya is a tributary of Mundeni Aru, which flaws though Borders of Moneragala and Ampara.Today after being cold stored for nearly three decades due to the war, Rambakan Oya irrigation project is back on track with a mega dam being built in Pollebadda, a village occupied by the Vedda, the Indigenous community of Lanka.
Rambakan Oya would be the biggest irrigation project in the Eastern province and is expected to cost Rs. 2.5 billion rupees. The project provides clean accessible drinking water to over 2,500 families in the area who now walk miles for drinkable water, in these semi-arid provinces.The dam will be over one kilometre long and 25 meters tall sustaining 130 square kilometres of water. The dam would have three sluice gates including a separate gate for the supply of drinking water.From the dam a 6.7 kilometer long Anicut is being constructed to feed the water to six other smaller reservoirs, which are also under construction. These six reservoirs would provide water to irrigate over 12,000 acres while a 12 kilometer underground canal carrying drinking water would be constructed connecting to a new reservoir named in Nilabe.Nearly 3000 families, who were exiled from their land due to raging war, would be resettled under the new irrigation scheme bringing hope to lives ravaged by a three decade long war.

Rambaken oya reservoir

Rambaken oya reservoir

full of weeds

full of weeds

danigala range as seen from rambaken oya

Danigala range as seen from rambaken oya

what a view

what a view

under construction

under construction

gates of the reservoir

gates of the reservoir

ancient canal system spreading 100 meters at rambaken oya

ancient canal system spreading 100 meters at rambaken oya

 inscription on the waterway

inscription on the waterway

meaning

meaning

two canals

two canals

the lock system

the lock system

On the way back to Maha oya we saw a black board saying Hingure mada, where we had to take a left turn and again after traveling 1km another turn to the left. The road was totally washed away at one point and we had to leave back the vehicle and walk about 2Km to get to the temple which was surrounded by the lake on three sides. On our way we met a Vedda villager of Pollebedda and asked the distance to the temple and he answered “Tawa Damwel hatharaka dura tiyenawa mahaththayo” and after hearing that we were perplexed for few seconds and continued wondering what was the length of a “dam wala”. At the temple premises one can find the ancient sthupa few ruins of building complexes, etc. For me the best thing was the stunning view of the surrounding lake. While returning back we did come across a “beema dansala” and a “Bath dansala” which full filled our requirements for the day.

Hingure mada pagoda

Hingure mada pagoda

korawak stone and a moonstone at Hingure mada

korawak stone and a moonstone at Hingure mada

more pillars at Hingure mada

more pillars at Hingure mada

beauty

beauty

lake at Hingure mada

lake at Hingure mada

Next stop was Henannegala Cave temple which is 10km away on Aralaganvila road. This giant cobra hood like rock is located right on the side of the road and within five minutes one can get to the base of it via the foot path. This was once said to be an Hermitage which harbored 500 monks and this is a must visit place for a traveler. The chief monk is very helpful and he would give a nice description about every inch of it also don’t forget to enjoy the view from the vandalized sthupa. Actually this was a brisk visit and we couldn’t explore the area properly. So if you are going there take some time to visit the ancient kuti, vedda drawings, to see the pre historic weapons, and climb the rock if time permits. Just like Rambaken oya Henannegala also was filled with visitors who came to worship the place.

Henannegala cave temple

Henannegala cave temple

its vesak

its vesak

what to see

what to see

wow

wow

the pond

the pond

omanugala as seen from the base of the rock

omanugala as seen from the base of the rock

vandalized

vandalized

paintings

paintings

plenty of kuti

plenty of kuti

villages visiting historical sites during vesak

villages visiting historical sites during vesak

After a quick chat with the monk we hurried towards the Maduru oya reservoir to enjoy a spectacular sun set. The ancient “sorouwa’ which was found during the initial constructions of Maduru oya reservoir project can be seen on the southern end of the dam and the archaeology department information board has lot of details about the history of it. The spectacular sun set made our day but the full moon over Omanugala plus jumbos of Maduru oya made it a memorable one.

Omanugala changing its shape

Omanugala changing its shape

on guard

on guard

ancient sorouwa of maduru oya

ancient sorouwa of maduru oya

bit of history

bit of history – Click to enlarge

sun set at maduru oya

sun set at maduru oya

towards ulhitiya

towards ulhitiya

towards narakamulla and barons cap

towards narakamulla and barons cap

splendid scenery

splendid scenery

 the process of vanishing off

the process of vanishing off

here she goes

here she goes

a huge pack

a huge pack

Day two one of my colleagues (Sanjaya) from Monaragala did join with me and both of us together decided to ride around the Maduru oya reservoir. And at around 8am we took off towards Dambana where we first visited Mawaragala hermitage which was right on the side of the road. This is a huge hermitage which extends uphill, we did come across a closed drip ledge image house at the “bo maluwa” and not so far away from that a large “bawana gala” can be found. At that particular time a person was meditating so we didn’t make any disturbing sounds while enjoying the surrounding. There is a foot path that leads to the summit but it is overgrown and difficult to tackle so we had to abandon that idea. After reaching the entrance point we entered the area with plenty of drip ledge caves where meditating monks reside. Some drip ledge caves had inscriptions too; this is a very well maintained and functioning hermitage with many monks. The four guard stones’ resembling the ones found in Anuradhapura was a fascinating find in such a location.

mawaragala hermitage dambana

mawaragala hermitage dambana

piece of art

piece of art

 drip ledge cave at mawaragala hermitage

drip ledge cave at mawaragala hermitage

image house

image house

in deep meditation

in deep meditation

modern day sculptures

modern day sculptures

ruins at mawaragala hermitage

ruins at mawaragala hermitage

wow the guard stones

wow the guard stones – Click to enlarge

 a superb korawak stone

a superb korawak stone

modernized kuti

modernized kuti

some had inscriptions

some had inscriptions

one of those caves

one of those caves

the bitter truth

the bitter truth

learning process

learning process

From Mawaragala we continued about 1km towards Mahiyangana and at 52 mile post junction we took the road towards Ulhitiya which was in bad shape all the way to Henanigala. On the way we did have some stops at the dams of Ulhitiya and Rathkinda to enjoy some stunning scenery. One can simply enjoy the whole of knuckles range without much of a fuss. Next we reached Henanigala tank. At a point from the dam of Henanigala we took a left turn and reached Panchawasa temple with uttermost difficulty due to bad road conditions.

view from ulhitiya bund

view from ulhitiya bund

view towards towards kokagala

view towards towards kokagala

view towards knuckles range

view towards knuckles range

mini worlds end madolsima  as seen from ulhitiya

mini worlds end madolsima as seen from ulhitiya

a shikra

a shikra

reflection at Rathkinda

reflection at Rathkinda

one leg up and one hand up

one leg up and one hand up

Rathkinda reservoir panorama

Rathkinda reservoir panorama

This is again one of those must visit temples with plenty to see. There is an ancient Buddha statue at the entrance and not so far away there is a huge rock fortress and a small pond with a cobra carved on a rock. Inside the temple complex one can find a pagoda, image house, bo maluwa and few other building in ruins completing the requirement for a Panchawasa temple. And I would love to re visit this place someday specially because of the scenic rock on the opposite side of the temple complex.

Quote

Henanigala Panchawasa Raja Maha Viharaya

Believed to be one of the sixty four temples built by King Kawanthissa, Senanigala shot to fame when his son, great King Dutugamunu, chose the rock monastery to gather his forces against King Elara, a Tamil king who usurped the throne of Anuradhapura. 

Identified to be one of the two ‘panchavasa’ temples remaining in the country Senanigala holds a stupa, a shrine room, a bodhigara or house around the Bodhi tree, a gathering hall and a preaching hall essential to qualify as a ‘panchavasa’ temple. 

Scattered around the main temple on the rocky plateau are a compound laid with stone slabs anda ninety five feet long drip-ledged cave, which housed the meditating monks of the eras gone by. Among the broken statues are a five feet tall Buddha image and a six feet statue believed to be of King Datugemunu.  A moonstone adorned only with figures of elephants, stairway stones and stone pillars of intricate beauty adores the entrance to the shrine room. The stairway stone or Korawakgal are over five feet tall and are believed to be the tallest found in the country while the shrine room has a two entrance structure unique to Senanigala. A bodhigara or a stone housing built around the Bo tree found near the pond lay in ruins although the stone slabs laid around the Bo tree still remain intact. But the stupa had been completely vandalised by treasure hunters its body carved out and its top taken apart and thrown away. 

Nothing but a road paved with stones wide enough for two horse chariots to pass abreast still remain at the foot of the mountain as witness to the bustling army organisation that was present in and around Senanigala nearly 2100 years ago. 

Turn left onto Mahiyangane-Dimbulagala-Dalukkane Hwy –Diyawiddagama – Nawa Medagama (22 Km From Mahiyanganaya) – Turn to Henanigala road (5 Km) (225 Km 4 Hours 25 Min)

fortress at henanigala

fortress at henanigala

budhdha statue at henanigala panchawasa temple

budhdha statue at henanigala panchawasa temple

at the entrance at henanigala panchawasa temple

at the entrance at henanigala panchawasa temple – Click to enlarge

beauties

beauties

the cobra carving

the cobra carving

an inscription

an inscription

bodhi maluwa

bodhi maluwa

sannipatha shalawa

sannipatha shalawa

plenty of visitors

plenty of visitors

budu geya

budu geya

72 ancient korawak stone

cracked moon stone

cracked moon stone

bahiwaraya

bahiwaraya

part of a punkalasa

part of a punkalasa

the pagoda

the pagoda

panoramic view of knuckles from the temple rock

panoramic view of knuckles from the temple rock

Next we headed along the canal system again and somehow managed to find Kuda gala Punchi Seegiriya. Actually the term is misleading, may be this place is called Seegiriya because it had murals (now not to be found) similar to the ones found in Seegiriya and Gonagolla. There is a rock just like Seegiriya very close to this said site which resembles the shape of Seegiriya rock which adds up to the confusion. The Kudagala complex is an ancient hermitage where one can find a cave which had murals in the center of the rock and there are few drip ledge kuti in the area too. There is a foot path to the summit but we were not in an adventurous mood on that particular day. So after having a look around and enjoying some “dawal dane” ;-) we headed towards Dehiaththakandiya road.

Quote

Kuda gala punchi seegiriya

Known as the Kuda-sigiriya for its drip ledged caves adorned with murals Kudagala had been a monastery for the last two thousand years. Situated few miles away from Dehiattakandiya Kudagala is a three hundred meter tall mountain in a range that governs the horizon on the Weheragala road.  

Although most of the caves had been designed as abodes for the meditating monks and had been sponsored by a group of merchants, in the area, according to a rock inscription found on a rock table, one cave carries the remnants of murals drawn on a specially laid plaster inside a cave designed to be a shrine room. The murals drawn with natural colors mainly illustrate red, orange, green and brown and have been polished over with a natural wax to safeguard then from rain and glare. 

The design created with lotus flowers and vines is the only remaining part of a mural, which had once covered the whole ceiling of the cave. A new plaster had been laid over some parts of the mural while some parts, alleged to be comprising a picture of a bodhisattva had been covered with a white paint, done by the ignorant at the beginning of the last century.

The entrance to the cave faces a steep slope and has a natural rock terrace which affords a view of the Mahaweli River and the Hunnasgiriya mountain range. The small holes on floor of the cave would have been made to support the wooden roof, which would have sheltered the cave entrance and the Buddha statue, which lay in ruins today. 

Remnants of a stupa, which would have been once visible to the whole valley below, stands on the top of the mountain, pillaged by treasure hunters while it’s top and bricks lay strewn around. 

Colombo – Kandy – Mahiyanganaya – Giradurukotte Road – Sadungama – Dehiatthakandiya – Aralaganvila Road (6 KM) – Iluk kade Juntion – Kumaragala Mahaweli Village (5Km) – Kudagala(243 KM, 4 hours 31 Min)

seegiriya like rock near kuda gala

seegiriya like rock near kuda gala (image from SLTDA)

kuda seegiriya rock

kuda seegiriya rock

the cave as seen from the road

the cave as seen from the road

a kutiya

a kutiya

a statue

a statue

steps towards the cave

steps towards the cave

a place to meditate

a place to meditate

 few more steps to tackle

few more steps to tackle

cave with murals

cave with murals

the gap

the gap

plaster with faded flower patterns

plaster with faded flower patterns

scenery from the cave

scenery from the cave – click to enlarge

From Dehiaththakandiya we took off to Aralaganvila and just before entering the Maduru oya national park we came across an archaeology board which forced us to have a look. At the boarder of the national park of Maduru oya Kandegama archaeological reserve can be found. This is a huge complex with 70 drip ledge caves and out of those we did visit only about four or five, there is a newly built pagoda and an image house at one of those huge caves with a drip ledge. The most significant finding was the inscription been on a side rather than on the top of the cave. There is ruined image house also which seems to be partly restored in the premises. According to the chief monk there is plenty more to see around including the reclined vandalized Buddha statue at a summit level cave. Here is a link to an interesting article on Kandegama reserve which has loads of information. After a brief visit we headed back via Maduru oya to Maha oya where we enjoyed a sun set over a paddy field to end our Vesak adventure.

Kandegama mountain

Kandegama mountain

the sthupa

the sthupa

newly built image house

newly built image house

the kutiya with the karaduwa

the kutiya with the karaduwa

an image house

an image house – click to enlarge

little monk showing us few caves out of 70

little monk showing us few caves out of 70

steps

steps

where they meditate

where they meditate

another cave

another cave

the drip ledge inscription

the drip ledge inscription

exploring around

exploring around

passing by shot of omanugala (may be on another day)

passing by shot of omanugala (may be on another day)

sun set over a paddy field

sun set over a paddy field

have a nice sleep traveler

have a nice sleep traveler

Thanks for reading!

Kalpitiya Dutch Fort and Thonigala

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Year and Month May, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 4 Adults
Accommodation Not Required
Transport Car
Weather Heavy rains throughout the trip
Route Colombo –> Negombo –> Kalpitiya and back.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It was a rush trip to pave way to a more planned trip
Author Christy
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Last year, my friend from Australia compelled us to run through Trincomalee on a rush trip with his family. My trip report too was equally a rushed one!!!

This time he came alone and suddenly demanded a trip to Kalpitiya, just to enjoy the bio diversity!!!!. I had time only to arrange an approval from Sri Lankan Navy to visit the Dutch Fort.

We started around 4.00 am from Maharagama. It was raining cats and dogs and motoring was virtually difficult.

By the time we reached the extended arm of the island, it was morning and the weather was not that promising. However we were able to go to coal power plant of Norochcholei and got down in front.

The area is scattered with wind power generators which is a very pleasant scenery for any green person, especially in the vicinity of a coal plant.

WIND MILLS

WIND MILLS

However the giant(Coal power plant) was sleeping when we were there. No activities at all. A friendly navy person with a high sense of humor commented “ It is always sleeping and once in a while gets up to send out smokes to say it is still alive”.

SLEEPING GIANT OF NOROCHCHOLE

SLEEPING GIANT OF NOROCHCHOLE

With the approval of Navy, we stayed half an hour in the beach and proceeded to our next destination.

BEACH NEAR POWER PLANT

BEACH NEAR POWER PLANT

PART 2

AGRICULTURE IN PROGRESS

AGRICULTURE IN PROGRESS

St. Anne’s Church of Thalawila itself is a one day trip. However by the time we reached it, the rain was pelting and we could not even get down from the car. We stayed in the car for some time and no sooner the rain stopped for a short spell, visited the place in a rush.

Following is extracted from internet about the church.

“The Thalawila church has a long history and once account says that a European Trader travelling in a ship dedicated to St. Anne, was shipwrecked off the coast of Thalawila in the 18th century and found the church following success in business after placing a vow at this place. The other account says that in the 17th century a Portuguese man travelling from Mannar to Colombo slept at a tree in Thalawila and dreamt seeing St. Anne’s statue at the foot of tree, and when he awoke from the dream the statue was physically there as he dreamt.”

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THALAWILA CHURCH

THALAWILA CHURCH

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PART 3
From Thalawila, we drove direct to the Dutch Fort of Kalpitiya.

The Fort is a part of the Navy Command hence prior approval is required to visit the Fort. They were very helpful and gave us a guided tour.

NAVY COMMAND IN KALPITIYA

NAVY COMMAND IN KALPITIYA

The Fort was built in 1667, on the spot where the Portuguese had a stockade and a Jesuit chapel. It is classified as a medium size Fort. The walls are about 4 meters high and inside are the remnants of the chapel, a commander’s house, barrack rooms, a prison and several go downs.
It was said that consent to build the Fort was obtained from the ruling King on the pretext that it would only a cover for the church. Two church like arches were built inside the complex to make outsiders believe that it was in fact a church. When seen from inside, these arches have no relevance to the main buildings.
There was a tunnel leading from the Fort. It is now closed.
The Fort bears a deteriorated appearance and in need of urgent restoration. A Navy Officer told us that several foreign tourists have expressed their willingness to fund such a task but no one bothered to pursue those offers. Usual scenario !!!!

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

MAP OF THE FORT

MAP OF THE FORT – Click Image to Enlarge

SIGNS OF ENGLISH OCCUPANCY ON THE DOOR

SIGNS OF ENGLISH OCCUPANCY ON THE DOOR – Click Image to Enlarge

BELL ARCH OVER MAIN DOOR

BELL ARCH OVER MAIN DOOR – Click Image to Enlarge

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WATCH TOWER

WATCH TOWER

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LEADING TO TUNNEL

LEADING TO TUNNEL

TUNNEL NOW CLOSED

TUNNEL NOW CLOSED

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PRIDE OF NAVY BOYS

PRIDE OF NAVY BOYS

After the guided tour of the Fort, a Navy brother volunteered to take us to a clean and safe bathing place. We had to drive following his motor bike for a considerable distance to a Navy guarding point facing the sea (not the lagoon). The guarding point is only a temporary hut but warm welcome of the Navy boys instantly made it our home.

NAVY POINT WITH POOR FACILITIES

NAVY POINT WITH POOR FACILITIES

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PIER

PIER

A roughly laid stone pier which extended to the sea has made an alcove where fishing boats were shored. All incoming and outgoing boats are required to report to the Navy point.

FISHING HARBOUR

FISHING HARBOUR

BOATS REPORTING TO NAVY

BOATS REPORTING TO NAVY

PART 05
It is a unique bathing place safe from rough sea and we spent several hours in water. All had to suffer scratching sun burns for several days after the trip.

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After a bath of fresh water, we had our lunch inside the Navy hut.

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NAVY BOYS WHO ASSISTED US

NAVY BOYS WHO ASSISTED US

AT LAST WE FOUND THEM

AT LAST WE FOUND THEM

PART 06
The day was still young and I asked our Australian friend whether he wish to go any other places. He readily told us that he wanted to visit Thonigala.
Thonigala is a rock located in Anamaduwa about 2 kilometers from the town, on Puttalam Road. It is famous for 2 gigantic rock inscriptions made on it. The tank called Galawewa is bordering the rock.
About 20 feet above the bottom line of the Rock, there are inscriptions carved on the rock face . Each letter is about a foot in height and has been chiseled out for an inch deep in to the rock.
Some times back, these inscriptions were covered with soil by villagers to protect them from erosion. Now the State has taken over the function and let the nature to do the obvious job. ( I always wonder why people of this country rely on an alarmingly inefficient government department to protect our heritage. It is high time to form an organization to do that. )
Apart from the inscriptions, the place is of interest and of beauty due to the low level rock, the wewa and the greenery surrounding. Ecological beauty is beyond imaginations. The environment is unique for camping.

ONLY 150 METERS FROM THE ROAD

ONLY 150 METERS FROM THE ROAD

THE WALK IS ENCHANTING

THE WALK IS ENCHANTING

YET TO REACH FIRST ONE

YET TO REACH FIRST ONE

PASSING THE TANK

PASSING THE TANK

FIRST GIRI LIPI

FIRST GIRI LIPI

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SCRIPT

Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisaha wapi acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa dine. Dewana pi maharaja Gamini Abaye niyate acanagaraka ca [tawi] rikiya nagaraka ca. Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisa niyata pite raj aha agata anagata catudisa sagasa.

TRANSLATION

The tank of the parumaka Tisa, son of the parumaka Abhaya, at the mountain of Acagirika Tisa, is given to the priesthood of the four quarters, present and absent. The great king, beloved of the gods, Gamini Abhaya, ordered : Acanagara and Tawirikiyanagara, which have been established
by my father, King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, [are given] to the priesthood of the four quarters, present and absent.

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The second inscription, largest ever, is another tranquilizing walk away.

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SOME RUINS

SOME RUINS

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SECOND ROCK INSCRIPTION

SECOND ROCK INSCRIPTION

SCRIPT
Parumaka Abaya puta parumaka Tisa niyate. Ima wapi acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa. Dewana piya maharaje Gamini Abaye niyate acanagaraka catawirikiya nagaraka ca acagirika Tisa pawatahi agata anagata catudisa sagasa. Parumaka baya puta parumaka Tisaha wisara niyate pite.

TRANSLATION
King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, ordered : This tank at the Acagirika Tisa mountain is given to the priesthood of the four quarters present and absent. The great king, beloved of the gods, Gamini Abhaya, ordered : Acanagara and Tawirikiya nagara [are given] to the priesthood in the four quarters present and absent. The tank of King Tisa, son of King Abhaya, is established by my father.

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EVERY TRIP HAS A COMMON DEFECT.
IT ENDS

Four days at Mannar and Wilpattu

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Year and Month April, 2013
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew Five (Myself, wife, daughter and two sons)
Accommodation Four Tees Rest Inn at Mannar and a private house at Wilpattu
Transport Car
Activities A Family trip, Visiting Adam’s bridge, Wild life
Weather Excellent
Route Gampaha -> Puttalam -> Nochchiyagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Thanthirimale -> A14 -> Murukkan ->
Seelawathura -> Arippu  Mannar -> Thalaimannar -> Back on the same route to Nochchiyagama -> Wilpattu -> Puttalam -> Gampaha.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Four Tees Rest Inn is an average place with reasonable charges
  • Try to be as early as possible at Thalaimannar pier, to avoid the scorching sun, on your return journey.
Author Wije
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We started at 5.00 am from Gampaha and reached Puttalam rest house by 8.00 am and had our breakfast.

Puttalam lagoon and wind power mill

Puttalam lagoon and wind power mill

From Puttalam it was a relaxing drive along A12 and passing Wilpattu we turned left at Nochchiyagama towards Oyamaduwa and reached Thanthirimale temple. This road is narrow and curvy but well paved.
When the Sri Maha Bodi was brought from India by Buddhist nun Sangamitta, the pot containing the sapling was kept at Thanthirimale for one night. It is believed that there was one branch separately grew from the pot and it was planted at Thanthirimale.

We climbed (apparently ran) the rock and it was boiling, under scorching sun.

Thanthirimale Rock

Thanthirimale Rock

Top of the rock

Top of the rock

The Bo tree at the top of the rock

The Bo tree at the top of the rock

Reclining statue

Reclining statue

From Thanthirimale we drove another 10 KM to meet A14 Medawatchchiya/Mannar road at Gajasinghapura. Then we came to Madu junction and turned right and drove another 10 KM to reach Madu church. The road was in great shape all the way up to the church.

Turnoff from A14 to Madu

Turnoff from A14 to Madu

Madu Church

Madu Church

Surroundings are very peaceful

Surroundings are very peaceful

Mannar railway line under construction

Mannar railway line under construction

From Madu we came to Murukkan along A14 and turned left to reach Seelawathura. From there we drove another 5 KM on a gravel road to reach Dorick House, the colonial bungalow which was built in 1804, the residence of the first Governor of Sri Lanka, Sir Fedrick North.

Ruins of Dorick House

Ruins of Dorick House

Dorick tower seen at a distance

Dorick tower seen at a distance

This house was built near Silawathura beach and some of the walls were seen fallen on to the beach.

Inside the house

Inside the house

Fallen parts of the building

Fallen parts of the building

Driving another few kilometers on the same gravel road, we reached Fort of Arippu. This was a Dutch Fort where Robert Knox sought protection to escape after his 19 years (1660 – 1679) captivity. Robert Knox is popular for the book he wrote, named ‘Historical relations of Ceylon’

Fort of Arippu

Fort of Arippu

Inside the Fort has become a jungle

Inside the Fort has become a jungle

From Arippu we came back to Murukkan and drove towards Mannar and then stopped near Giant tank and had our lunch and it was almost 5.00 pm.

Giant tank

Giant tank

Giant tank

Giant tank

From Giant tank we proceeded along A14 and came to Thirukedeeswaran Kovil. We couldn’t get near as the gate was closed. Thereafter, we visited the Biobab tree which is situated in the heart of Mannar town.

Thirukedeeswaran Kovil

Thirukedeeswaran Kovil

Biobab Tree

Biobab Tree

This tree was brought there by Arabians during 1477 which is 7.5 meters tall and has a circumference of 19 meters.

Biobab tree

Biobab tree

Huge trunk of the tree

Huge trunk of the tree

Then we proceeded through Mannar causeway and came to Four Tees Inn.

Mannar causeway

Mannar causeway

We were greeted by the owner Mr. Lawrence a very helpful and obliging person.

Next day morning we left to Thalaimannar to visit Adam’s bridge. It’s 24 Four Tees Inn and the road was excellent.KM from

Sri Lanka Navy operates boat tours to Adams bridge sand dune islands. It is also called Rama’s bridge or Rama Sethu. They charge Rs 600/= per head and our boat could accommodate six. We were given life saving jackets and there was a life saver also to accompany us, in addition to the boat operator. So the safety is guaranteed.

Road to Thalaimannar

Road to Thalaimannar

At Thalalimannar pier

At Thalalimannar pier

Adam’s bridge is a 30 KM long chain of 16 islands. The folk story is that ‘Rama’ had built this bridge with the help of ‘Hanuman’ to rescue ‘Sitha’ from ‘Ravana’.

We started the boat tour around 7.00am

We started the boat tour around 7.00am

Riding towards the deep sea

Riding towards the deep sea

The sea was calm and it was an unforgettable journey and really enjoyable. After about one hour we reached the second island of the Adam’s bridge.

They were disturbed by our boat

They were disturbed by our boat

Flying away

Flying away

Getting close to the island

Getting close to the island

This island is home for several birds

This island is home for several birds

We walked through these shallow ponds

We walked through these shallow ponds

And finally reached the second island

And finally reached the second island

It was an amazing experience when you land on it. As you step on to the island, you get the feeling that it’s virtually a desert. But when you explore it deeply, you will realize that it is actually a heaven.

Some flowering plants

Some flowering plants

Probably unique to this island

Probably unique to this island

Another peculiar plant unique to this island

Another peculiar plant unique to this island

Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes on the beach

Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes on the beach

There were some nice drawings on the sand, done by the master sculptor, ‘Nature’

Nicely drawn by waves

Nicely drawn by waves

Another peculiar drawing on sand

Another peculiar drawing on sand

We were walking freely from one end to the other and it was a wonderful experience.

Amazing landscape

Amazing landscape

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Amazing landscape

Freely walking

Freely walking

Freely walking

Freely walking

Getting ready for the return journey

Getting ready for the return journey

Hard life of a fisherman

Hard life of a fisherman

Talaimannar pier seen from the sea

Talaimannar pier seen from the sea

'Thal kola Weta' Palmyra leave fence is Very common in Mannar

‘Thal kola Weta’ Palmyra leave fence is Very common in Mannar

We came to Four Tees Inn around 11 am and after having lunch said good bye to Mr. Lawrance and came on the same route through Thanthirumale to Nochchiyagama and then to Wilpattu. We stayed at a private house arranged by my trekker Sampath and next day by 6.30 am we were at Wilpattu entrance.

6.30 am at Wilpattu entrance

6.30 am at Wilpattu entrance

It was just after the rainy season and the park was looking bright with lush greenery all over with blooming flowers and the water levels had gone down. We drove for about five hours but did not come across any significant sighting except for few birds. I am not a birder and therefore I have no idea of their nomenclature.

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Just by the side of the road

Just by the side of the road

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My guess is they are all common birds.

Then we came to Modaragam Aru river near the Kokmote bungalow. We had a nice cool dip there and had lunch.

Kokmete bungalow

Kokmete bungalow

River Modaragam

River Modaragam

Captured near Modaragam river

Captured near Modaragam river

Another colourful one at Modaragam river

Another colourful one at Modaragam river

Enjoying a bath

Enjoying a bath

Moving very slowly

Moving very slowly

Fully grown sambur

Fully grown sambur

Just crossed in front of our jeep

Just crossed in front of our jeep

They were not in abundance this time

They were not in abundance this time

It was almost 5.30 pm and we decided to get back. On our way to the main entrance, all of a sudden the driver stopped the jeep and signaled us to be quiet. We were amazed to see a sloth bear about ten meters away from the jeep.

He was hidden behind a shrub and couldn't get a good view

He was hidden behind a shrub and couldn’t get a good view

After few minutes he moved away hurriedly and walked into the jungle

After few minutes he moved away hurriedly and walked into the jungle

We were disappointed as we couldn’t get a good view. Then we moved little forward and our trekker Sampath asked the driver to stop the jeep and turn off the engine. We patiently waited for about five minutes and to our luck the bear appeared again and came near the jeep and stood for few seconds, without moving even an inch. He was inviting us to snap him as much as possible, so we did it.

Unmoved, Nicely posing, just by the side of the road

Unmoved, Nicely posing, just by the side of the road

Then he moved a bit and looked at us

Then he moved a bit and looked at us

and vanished into the jungle

and vanished into the jungle

Walking away

Walking away

We came to the bungalow around 6.30 pm. Next day morning we returned home with loads of remarkable memories.

 

Rural village Udawadiya..

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Year and Month June, 2013
Number of Days One
Crew 1
Accommodation Bandaras house at Mahadowa
Transport Public Transport / trishaw
Activities Culture / Photography / Waterfall hunting / Hiking / experiencing rural village life!
Weather Sunny day with clear sky
Route Passara -> Namunukula -> Tennecombora -> Udawadiya ->  Kosgolla -> Iluktenna -> Higurukaduwa -> Kotamuduna -> Passara -> Mahadowa

[Download Google Earth Trail Map]

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • It’s better if you can carry a stock of water (1L per person) and food
    like biscuits and etc.
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back
    everything you took.
  • If you have a 4WD you could reach Tennecombora line houses and walk from
    there, other alternatives are 4Wd road from Balleketuwa and Siyambalagune
    and no trishaw guy will agree to go on a hire to Udawadiya.
  • Roughly 4.5Km hike from Tennecombora junction to Udawadiya and 7Km from
    Higurukaduwa
  • Ask directions from locals whenever possible and If you meet few locals
    from Udawadiya have a chat with them and get to know more information

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Bandara of Mahadowa

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The map, purple is the waterfall

The map, purple is the waterfall – Click to enlarge

When I first stepped in to Monaragala I planned to visit all four waterfalls listed under Monaragala district and suddenly one waterfall seemed to be a mystery and was bit of a challenge considering its location called Udavadiya. I was posted to Devathura to cover up another colleague’s duty for about one month and during that period I got some information from the local population about this village called Udawadiya. According to the locals this village is at the boarder of the two districts of Uva and geographically located in an isolated gap between mountains on the southern slopes of the central hills of Sri Lanka which even does not have a proper access route. It is said that warriors of 1630 Randeniya battle later resettled themselves at this village and had been there until now and due to inter family marriages the number of deaf and dumb in the population is said to be high in Udawadiya. I decided one day I’m going to explore this place and almost after one and a half years that day arrived.

From Passara I got to Namunukula and took the Devathura/Miyanakadura road for about 3.5Km’s. I reached a junction where there was a board directing towards Tenacombara school. Though the road was motorable for about 1.5Km up to the line houses no trishaw would risk to go there J so the long walk started from this point onwards. The road was a 4WD one in bad condition as predicted and Within no time I was walking along a lonely road enjoying some stunning scenery towards the valley of Devathura and far away Monaragala. After about 1.5Km I reached few houses on the slopes of the valley and I proceeded further from this point enjoying some stunning views towards the paddy fields in the valley. Next I reached the last set of line houses and from here onwards the road was only a foot path. After getting directions I set foot towards Udawadiya and not so far away from this point I came across a cave near a stream where travelers from Udawadiya used to rest.

starting point of a 11km trail at Tennekumbura

starting point of a 11km trail at Tennekumbura

respect!

respect!

 lonely road

lonely road

 what a road to walk on

what a road to walk on

very bad condition

very bad condition

winding around hills

winding around hills

towards monaragala

towards monaragala

captured

captured

on the opposite side

on the opposite side

gods, pay due respect

gods, pay due respect

last line home stretch

last line home stretch

four gods

four gods

resting cave, like an ambalama

resting cave, like an ambalama

The path was a lonely one and one should keep in mind to stick to the clear path rather than other branching out foot paths towards the forest. I was heading towards a gap between two peaks of the mountain range where I came across few villagers from Udawadiya carrying some stuff on their heads and going to a funeral at Tennacombara. If you look at the images you will note how difficult their lives are. After having a small chat I proceeded and reached the gap where for the first time Buttala region was offered to my camera lens and from here onwards it was a downhill journey through the small mana patch. Please keep in mind the path is not clear at this point but if you look around it could be spotted. It was a pleasure to enter the green forest and get out of the blazing sun. The path was slippery because of loosened up rocks, so one should keep in mind to be watchful while enjoying the scenic descent. It is simply spectacular to see how the paddy fields of Higurukaduwa extend up to Buttala area through a valley.

The descend through the thick forest with occasional openings with a remarkable window view ended at the village after a 2.75Km trek from the last line houses and the rock paved road was to say welcome to Udawadiya. Not so far away from that point I came across the first house which was quite nicely built and they seem to be fulfilling their electricity requirements via a solar panel. I was told that these villagers are very busy and prosperous but their main obstacle been the mode of transport. After emerging on to the newly dozered road which connects Balleketuwa side and Siyambalagune, I met a villager and got proper directions from here onwards. One of my main objectives was to hunt the hidden beauty called Udawadiya falls which also had a mini hydro project which was functional according to the villagers.

foot path is narrowing

foot path is narrowing

paddyfields of Devathura

paddyfields of Devathura

endless valley

endless valley

Devathura government dispensary

Devathura government dispensary

more to go

more to go

life is so hard but they do survive

life is so hard but they do survive

the gap between two peaks

the gap between two peaks

very bad road conditions

very bad road conditions

 the gap towards buttala was opened up

the gap towards buttala was opened up

foot path

foot path

note the paddyfields extending towards buttala

note the paddyfields extending towards buttala

scenic

scenic

lonely path

lonely path

colouring up

colouring up

beautiful higurukaduwa

beautiful higurukaduwa

towards hadapanagala

towards hadapanagala

paved path to the village

paved path to the village

evidence of civilization

evidence of civilization

first residence

first residence

finally reached the village

finally reached the village

Descending few hundred meters along the road I came to a junction with a huge mango tree and there was a foot path to the left which led to Higurukaduwa but I took the right turn and headed towards the newly constructed causeway across Udavadiya oya. And there was a water canal in parallel to the main stream which diverted water from the main stream which I followed downstream in search of the waterfall. Through the bushes the beautiful cascade of Udawadiya started to immerge and I couldn’t resist it, so cautiously I did get down to the base of this beauty and started running around snapping its upper and lower parts. I was tired and was sweating a lot so the base pool was inviting me to refresh my self which I couldn’t repel. After enjoying a lonely bath I dressed up and said good bye to this beauty and headed back to the three way junction.

left will take one to higurukaduwa, right will lead to siyambalagune

left will take one to higurukaduwa, right will lead to siyambalagune

rural

rural

causeway

causeway

peaceful place

peaceful place

lower part of Udawadiya ella

lower part of Udawadiya ella

beautiful upper part of udawadiya ella

beautiful upper part of udawadiya ella

the base

the base

deep base pool

deep base pool

the temple with only a bo tree

the temple with only a bo tree

hard life at one of the most rural villages of SL

hard life at one of the most rural villages of SL

a true tawalama carrying paddy

a true tawalama carrying paddy

If one wants to reach Udawadiya from Siyambalagune it will be a 12Km 4WD ride as the locals said. Even from Ballekatuwa only one Tea lorry arrives somewhere close to the village daily. The foot path from the junction will take one too Higurukaduwa and it will be roughly 7Km’s. The path continues through the village houses and there is a clear path with occasional steps and it is a very well shaded path been bordered by plenty of jack trees. My legs started to ache within no time because of the difficult descend and after passing few houses I reached the Paddy field located in a heavenly location. It is simply the best paddy field I have ever seen. When one stands in the center of the field you can enjoy an endless view towards Buttala region and the southern oceans of Sri Lanka. According to some people I met the village consist of At least 80 family’s dispersed in a huge area though I met only very few of them. The village has only a “Bo” tree which signifies a temple for them. For the first time in my life I came across a true “Thawalama” carrying a bag of grain and it sums of the lives of these people of Udawadiya.

From the paddy fields onwards the path continued downwards and at a place where it met a mini stream it seemed to disappear. This place is a “Kos mandiya” and once you cross over you could find the lost path again. Next mile stone is the bridge made across a huge stream (probably Devathura oya) where one could enjoy a nice cool dip. Next is the village of Kosgolla where a 4WD road could be found after hurrying up my walk I reached Ilukktenna village. The last stretch to Higurukaduwa was done in a rush because it had got late and I needed to catch the last bus to Passara. The road seemed to be concreted for 1Km from Higurukaduwa and according to the locals the authorities have promised to complete the whole road up to Udawadiya. People at Higurukaduwa did mention that the children of Udawadiya do travel up and down 14Km per day just to get to a school and return back since this is the closest Sinhala school for them. After hearing that I felt so sad about these kids and I wish this write up will be an eye opener to the relevant officials of Uva province and other authorities of the government. After getting to Higurukaduwa I rested for about good 30 minutes before I left towards Passara with some unforgettable memories of Udawadiya.

a closed boutique

a closed boutique

 plenty of jack fuit

plenty of jack fuit

beautiful path

beautiful path

isolated houses

isolated houses

more to walk

more to walk

kadulla

kadulla

and their cattle

and their cattle

a paddyfield with a view of the southern oceans

a paddyfield with a view of the southern oceans

a big wow

a big wow

wish i could be like it

wish i could be like it

the difficult foot path

the difficult foot path

crossing a marshy land

crossing a marshy land

finally the bridge at kosgolla

finally the bridge at kosgolla

devathura oya

devathura oya

plenty of fruits

plenty of fruits

kosgolla

kosgolla

 their toys are much simpler

their toys are much simpler

a good road but non motarable

a good road but non motarable

i was there

i was there

still going strong

still going strong

upper paddyfield was the one i previously visited

upper paddyfield was the one i previously visited

notice board

notice board

Higurukaduwa paddyfields

Higurukaduwa paddyfields

summary of their hard life

summary of their hard life

the end destination, oops not the hospital but Higurukaduwa

the end destination, oops not the hospital but Higurukaduwa

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