Kumana and Panama-Archeology point of view

Year and Month	2021 October 10th –Bambaragasthalawa and Bovattegala 2015 June 26th- Kuda Kebiliththa, Okanda Dewalaya 2015 July 07th –Sastravela
Number of Days	Different days
Crew	Kasun Lakmal, Kasun Shanaka, Amila and Myself Guide to Bambaragasthalawa and Bovattegala- Malinda 0718683490
Accommodation	Not applicable
Transport	By car, jeep and foot
Activities	Archaeology, Photography
Weather	Excellent
Route	Colombo->Pothuvil->Panama->Kumana->Yodha Lipa-> Bambaragasthalawa->Back to Yodha Lipa-> Bovattegala Vihara ->Panama
Tips, Notes and Special remark	Bambaragasthalawa, Bovattegala Vihara and Kuda Kebiliththa are situated at Kumana NP. Therefore you have to get the entrance ticket. It is essential to get a tracker / someone from wild life department to visit Bambaragasthalawa and Bovattegala Vihara. Situation of Kuda Kebiliththa, Okanda Dewalaya and Sastravela are changed with time as my visit was at 2015. Carry a 5l can of water for the day. Obey park rules.
Related Resources	The Sinhala Buddhist heritage of East and North of Shri Lanka by Ven. Ellawala Medhananda Thero. Amazing Lanka article on Bovattegala Monastery. Amazing Lanka article on Sastravela. Lakdasun trip report on Twilight at Kumana and Lahugala Lakdasun trip report on The Long-Awaited Breakthrough at Kumana National Park – Pictorial Story 2…
Author	Niroshan
Comments	Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread Kumana and Panama-Archeology point of view

Kumana National Park was called as Yala East National park earlier and currently functioned as a separate entity. Panama is the most southern village of eastern province situated closer to Kumana NP. Both Kumana NP and Panama village have number of archeological sites. This is my attempt to give a short account of these places.

“The Southern boundary of the Eastern province today is the Kumbukkan Oya. As this flowed through the Kamboja Gama it was earlier known as Kambojanadi. The villages of Kumana and Panama are situated closer to this stream. Once a flourishing area, today it is covered with thick forest. Travelling upwards along the stream one can find many ruins of dams, canals and buildings belonging to the very early periods. “The Sinhala Buddhist heritage of East and North of Shri Lanka by Ven. Ellawala Medhananda Thero”.

The places of interests were
1. Nagapabbatha Hermitage or Bambaragsthalawa Vihara
2. Bovattegala Vihara
3. Kuda Kebiliththa Dewalaya-Kumana
4. Okanda Dewalaya and Ran Oru Gala
5. Sastravela Vihara / “Bodhigiri Naga Pabbata Vihara”

There are more to add this list in future.

Nagapabbatha Hermitage or Bambaragsthalawa Vihara (නාගපබ්බත විහාරය /බඹරගස්තලාව)

This is a monastery situated at Southern of Sri Lanka, started early centuries and gradually developed into a large monastery complex by 4th-8th centuries. The Rasavàhinì mentions of a great Thera named Thissa Mahanaga (තිස්සමහානාග) who dwelt in this Nagapabbatha Vihara.
The “Great Statue cave” (6.644656, 81.717766) is one of the important caves here. There is a paved path built by DWC to this cave as it is frequently visited by travellers. According to Ven. Medhananda Thero’s description there were some brick walls in this cave, but can observe only one wall at the moment. Upper edges of the walls are decorated with swan sculptures. The northern side of the cave was first used as a dwelling house of the Sangha and later converted into a shrine house.
“A vestibule was made in front of the cave, measuring 16’ Χ 48’. Ten square holes were dug in the brow ridge of the cave so that wooden beams could be inserted to them. Stone pillars in front side supported those beams at the front. A wooden door frame and one wooden pillar exist today.’’ We were able to see that wooden pillar but door frame was not there.
The reclining Buddha statue was renovated by Archeology Department few years ago. It’s length was described by Ellawala Thero as 36’. This Buddha statue was made by Brick, mud and lime plaster.

Bambaragasthalawa marked in metric map. I have a doubt about the height marked here.

Paved path to Bambaragasthalawa Great Statue Cave

Drip ledge of Great Statue Cave

Great Statue Cave

Brick wall

Please note the upper edge of brick wall is decorated by swan sculptures

Renovated recline Buddha statue

Earlier the head was broken by treasurer hunters

Double drip ledge of the cave

How it looks far….

Scattered ruins around the cave

Tiles

The wooden pillar

A square shaped hole

Great Statue Cave with Buddha statue

How this cave appeared to distance

The brick wall and Buddha statue

In addition we have visited two other rock caves with drip ledges. One cave was like an umbrella and had many scribbles on wall done by travellers. There was a large slab rock with open area where you can view the rocks of Bambaragsthalawa Vihara. There were two rock ponds at this slab rock.

Large slab rock where most of the rocks of Bambaragasthalawa are appeared

A rock pond situated at slab rock

Another rock pond

At Bambaragasthalawa

Umbrella shaped cave

Scribbles on the wall

Other cave was situated at bit higher level and the length is about 200ft. This cave has a big opening to surrounding area. This cave has letters mentioning “Naga Pavata Lena’ (නාග පර්වත ලෙන) (6.643645, 81.722338). It was dwelt by monks intermittently during last few years. They lived here at time of “Was” (වස්) months and alms provided by Kudumbigala Hermitage and DWC.
The book describes of a rock with ruined pagodas, but we couldn’t find such a construction

The cave was dwelt by monks recently. There was a flag on top of this cave and Kasun have reached there. We assume this is the highest point of Bambaragasthalawa.

Opening of this large cave.

At this cave

We were able to point out Kudumbigala, Bagure Gala, Deegal Hela, Maragala Mountain Range, Neelagiri Hela, Chimney Gala and Dikgala from Bambaragasthalawa. These Chimney Gala and Dikgala are situated at Kotiyagala area.

Kudumbigala from Bambaragasthalawa. Kudumbigala Akasa Chaitya is seen right upper corner.

Deegal Hela –far one

Maragala Range-far one

Neelagiri Hela

Chimney Gala

Dikgala

Unknown rocks

The rock with Great Statue Cave

Feels this as the highest point of Bambaragasthalawa. We have noted a flag on top of it as well. But the highest point of Naga Pavata Lena might be the highest point.

Bovattegala Vihara (බෝවත්තේගල විහාරය) (6.556864, 81.687241)

Bovattegala Vihara is another cave complex found in Kumana NP. Actually it is a short distance from main safari track. There was a paved path to the hill. Soon we hiked, we came across a stone cut rock pond. Two wild buffalos were there. One found dead and other was stucked in muddy water. Though we attempted to save the life of exerted one it was unsuccessful. Later we knew it was kind of a mode of death of wild buffalos due to heat.

“Bovattegala hill range consists of many caves. Drip ledges and Brahmi inscriptions are found in most of them. Brick walls were built in front to convert them into beautiful shrines and dwellings. The fact that the Brahmi inscriptions shrines and dwellings. The fact that the Brahmi inscriptions belong to the Pre Common Era, and some bricks belong to later periods proves that these were inhabited throughout the ages. The many buildings scattered over the hillside suggest that a monastery existed here. There are ruins of stupa on the hill tops. An examination into the bricks say the stupa belonged to Anuradhapura period. The four inscriptions refer to a minister named Naka, a king named Jetatisa, his eighth year, and a son of Mahasena Maharaja Apaya. Further they give information about the Aryawansa sutra discourse at this place. “The Sinhala Buddhist heritage of East and North of Shri Lanka by Ven. Ellawala Medhananda Thero”

The chronicle states that the Kshatriyas of Katharagama attended the planting of the sapling of the Sri Maha Bodiya at Anuradhapura and later received a sapling of the same tree as a present. This tree is said to be planted in Katharagama. Considering the above and the name Bovattegala which could interpreted as the “Garden by the rock where the Bo tree is situated” it has been assumed that the sapling from the Sri Maha Bodhi of Anuradhapura was planted at Bovattegala and not in the present Katharagama as per the popular belief. “Amazing Lanka article on Bovattegala Monastery”

One wild buffalo found death and other one was struggling there.

Ruined stupa

Ruined stupa, excavated by treasure hunters.

There were a set of drip ledge caves together and we were able to observe couple of slab inscriptions in front of this cave. Seems this cave was an inhabitant site of people from time to time. There were scribbles and some Weddha paintings at walls of the cave

A slab inscription

The main cave of Bovattegala Hill

The cave opening

Might be Wadda paintings…..

Scribbles

Bovattegala cave

Inscription under drip ledge

The drip ledge of the cave

Main cave of Bovattegala

He wanted to pose in this frame

The team in front of Bovattegala cave

Scattered ruins….

In addition to above mentioned cave, we have noted another three or four caves around this rock.

Another side of the rock….another cave

Front view….

A different one….

Another long cave

These Brahmi inscription were found below the drip ledge of cave

Close up…

Kuda Kebiliththa Dewalaya-Kumana (කුඩා කැබිලිත්ත දේවාලය කුමන) (6.515640, 81.698263)
This is the most visiting places in Kumana NP. Travellers go to worship this place as a separate journey and a part of Pada Yathra.
An ancient Dewalaya for God Katharagama is situated at the bank of Kumbukkan Oya (කුඹුක්කන් ඔය). This is a land mark of the route to Kebiliththa / Siyambalawa Dewalaya through Kumana entrance.
Amila and Myself have visited Kuda Kebiliththa Dewalaya in 2015 as a separate journey. Here we got the help of Major Alexander who is a friend of Amila. We have travelled from Colombo to Panama to visit Kuda Kebiliththa Dewalaya. The road was blocked by protestors at Lahugala area due to a problem of Neelagiri Stupa.
Old Kumana village was situated at Kumana NP and removed due to LTTE attacks. We have visited this place as an army post was situated here. (Nowadays you can’t see this army post as well).
There are no archeologically important structures at Kuda Kebiliththa Dewalaya. A small Dewalaya with statues of God Katharagama is the only construction here. As this is within the premises of Kumana NP, new constructions are not allowed. This was observed in my repeated visit to this place in later years.

The road is blocked by protestors

Kumana National Park entrance

Army post at old Kumana village

Passing Giant Hearth- යෝධ ලිප

At Giant Hearth

A bridge

Jeep tracks at Kumana

Black headed ibis

Water bodies are important birding sites of Kumana

Kuda Kebiliththa Dewalaya-2015

Statue of God Katharagama

Tasting Wood apple

.	The team….

Jumbo

Okanda Dewalaya and Ran Oru Gala (ඔකද දේවාලය හා රන් ඔරු ගල) (6.649931, 81.772743)

Okanda Dewalaya is situated about 15km from Panama and road goes through Kudumbigala-Panama sanctuary after Panama village. This is the most southern point of eastern province where public can reach by a vehicle without DWC permission. Traditions of the area mention that God Katharagama landed to the country at this site. It is true that Okanda bay served as port in the South eastern section of the country. Katharagama Dewalaya at Okanda was built in 1800 by Mr. Siyathu (සියාතු රටේ මහත්තයා). Buddhist owned the Devale till 1970, after which Tamils over-rode the Sinhalese. Now this Devale becomes a Kovil. Currently it is named as Murugan Kovil (Murugan is a different form of God Katharagama).

According to Ellawala Medhananda Thero, he has noticed ruins of a circular shaped stupa on a rock hill situated at Dewalaya premises. There is a rock cut flight of steps to climb on to the top.

Okanda Dewalaya in 2015

Bells

Okanda Dewalaya is for God Katharagama

Some accessory Kovil at Okanda premises

This was found at Dewalaya / Kovil premises. Don’t know what it is.

Rock with ruined stupa

Close up view of circular ruined stupa

View of Kudumbigala from Okanda (Right corner one)

Ran Oru Gala (රන් ඔරු ගල) (6.646079, 81.776672)
Okanda is the place people believe God Katharagama has landed to Sri Lanka. The boat which was turned into a rock is called Ran Oru Gala

Ran Oru Gala is seen to Okanda beach

Jeep parked at Okanda beach

Walking to Ran Oru Gala

Ran Oru Gala

Waves over Ran Oru Gala

Okanda beach is seen to Ran Oru Gala

Ancient Dewale of Ganadewi-Panama (පානම පුරාණ ගණදෙවි දේවාලය)

Somewhere in Panama. I can’t remember.

Sastravela Vihara / “Bodhigiri Naga Pabbata Vihara” (ශාස්ත්‍රවෙල / බෝධිගිරි නාගපබ්බත විහාරය) (6.807972, 81.817249)

The name Sastravela is derived from Rahatunvela (රහතුන්වෙල). This large area of paddy fields was watered by Hada Oya. Arahants who lived in the Vihara walked towards the river for water passing the paddy fields (vela).
There is another explanation for the name of Sastravela due to the famous institution situated here. When the marriage between King Kawanthissa and Vihara Maha Devi happened astrologists at Sastravela mentioned auspicious time for the wedding.
The rock inscription mentions the name of the temple as “Bodhigiri Naga Pabbata Vihara”. The letters of the cave inscriptions and the ruins of some of the stupas suggest that this shrine complex was an ancient as the first century P.C.E.
This place is situated about 1km from main road to Panama from Arugambay. Ven. Ellawala Thero describes ruins at this place into three parts: The ruins close to the sea, ruins on top of the rock and those at the foot of the rock.
Anyway we have visited a drip ledge cave with brick walls. There was a plaster on the ceiling of the cave. There was a sign of a large stupa o top of a hill. According to the description dimensions of this stupa was 501’ in the round and 60’ in height. The hill was a good view point towards surrounding. It said this stupa was built by King Mahanaga and renovated by King Kawanthissa and his son King Saddhatissa. King Mahanaga who was a brother of King Devanampiyatissa and established his kingdom at Ruhuna.