Moon Walkers on a Quest of Their Own – Kalthota

“The Milky Way – up on the Heavens; is tinkling just for you.
And Mr. Moon – he came by; to say good night to you”

That’s my phone ringing taking me out of my trance into the real world. “Pick the darn thing, will ya” my colleague is yelling at me. I dragged lazily outta my chair and rummage in my drawer and find the phone to see Wuminda is calling.

“Hi Sri, it’s Shalika here” – that’s his other name and I recognize him immediately.
“Yo, what’s up” I reply in typical horrendous made-up British Accent.
“Poson is coming and what we gonna do?” – Birds of a feather flock together, I think coz I too was pondering over it just a minute ago.
“Nothing special but how about a one-day then to Kalthota Doovili Ella?”
“Sounds great and let’s get the folks” – he hangs up leaving me dreaming of Doovili Ella, open-mouthed as if I had seen the most beautiful girl in the world.

Immediately after our somewhat successful journey to the Bathalegala, I started looking for options for another journey and came across Kalthota Doovili Ella from Harinda and Prince. After our unsuccessful attempt at Asupini Ella, I was planning on visiting her again but intermittent rains kept me isolated only in my dreams. So Wuminda’s phone call was a disguised blessing and I immediately formed a group called “Balangoda” on Facebook and sent the requests to my former crew.
The response was great but Harinda (newly employed fella) wasn’t so sure about the journey and to make matters worse Dana confirmed that the van we used is not available this time. So much for a grand start

I then asked everyone to keep an eye for a van with reasonable and affordable rates and started looking for one or two new crew members. (Harinda certainly took space for two ) Tony and Harinda both suggested we get Athula to join and what a great choice it turned out to be. He and his friend Prasanna confirmed the attendance and Prince came up with a telephone number for a low-cost van.

When I called it they promised to send a van with a seating capacity of 10 (plus two jumping seats) for just Rs. 30/- km. (They usually charge 35/- but when I said we would be hitting 350+km the rate got reduced dramatically.) Harinda’s absence left us with a sense of down feeling but thankfully all the others willingly confirmed their attendance.

Falling Head over Heels in Love…

The date was set for 23 June (Poson Full Moon Poya Day) and we eagerly waited for the day to arrive. I’m sure you’re curious about the name “Moon walkers”, aren’t you? There were only two moon walking I had heard before: 1. Astronauts’ walk on the moon (Neil Armstrong, Edwin Aldrin & Co.) 2. World famous Michael Jackson’s dancing style.

So why call ourselves Moonwalkers? Coz we did our first hike together on Vesak Full Moon Poya Day and this was on Poson Full Moon Poya Day… so coincidentally, we seem to take a liking to the Moon. Thus the name “Moon Walkers”.

The van picked Wuminda, Prince, Athula and Tony from Battarmulla around 4.30am came to Embuldeniya for me and Wijerama for Harsha and finally Dana and Thilini from Kottawa. Did I say finally? Not quite coz Athula’s friend Prasanna was waiting at Kaluaggala

There went the Moon Walkers away happily talking to the dozen. Athula’s addition brought in more Socio-Geo-Political topics and Prince was stranded at the front seat without a companion for his tailor-made stories. (Kumarage Agiya Katha) However, he wasn’t to be bowed down as we saw he had Ajith (our driver) engaged in some serious talk and I got the jitters immediately coz we wanted Ajith to be in his proper senses till the day end. Meanwhile Tony was furious with me for not letting him write Bathalegala trip report. He kept complaining that he had everything planned and I ruined his plans. What could I say? Then I offered him this report but he flatly refused saying he’s still mastering his typing skills at a night school.

Afterwards, Dana became Prince’s prey and no stopping since then. As usual, our food coordinator and meal director Wuminda didn’t forget his duty to gently remind us of breakfast. Prince kept missing the shops as he was so engrossed in engaging others with his never-ending mixed-up stories and we decided to take the job ourselves and soon found a posh-looking place in between Kuruwita and Ratnapura. (Bad me coz didn’t get a pic of the place or its name)

Breakfast buffet was 300/- each (I’m not sure after yesterday, 23 June) and we attacked it like hungry wolves. The attack was so surprising and ruthless the catering staff had difficulty bringing the food from the kitchen and I’m almost sure I saw the manager rubbing his chest as if having a heart attack. That must’ve been the first day they went on a loss from the day they started. They didn’t wait for us to ask for the bill. As soon as they realized that the bombardment is about to come to an end, the bill was presented. I almost felt sorry for them. Having filled all the compartments of our tummies to the brim, we left for Balangoda.

Note: over numerous chit-chat there were some stories I wish I could share with you folks but unfortunately I was threatened at gunpoint not to reveal any of them. So I’m gonna have to save them for some other time.

Tour Highlights:

1. Doovili Ella, Kalthota
2. Galtamyaya Ruins, Thanjanthenna
3. Kuragala Buddhist Monastery
4. Budugala Archaeological Site
5. Budugala Raja Maha Viharaya
6. Diyawini Ella

We reached Balangoda around 9.00am turned to the Kalthota Road where we need to take another 27km. Passing Wikiliya, Rajawaka, Kuragala, Thanjanthenna to the Doovili Ella.

 

Doovili Ella, Kalthota

Little did we know that one member of the crew had a more sentimental reason to join this trip as he’d had some love affair thing in Kalthota area. (Don’t ask me who it is but he’s bound to beat Usain Bolt any day providing you show him a leech) You need to take a left where there’s a sign board saying “Doovili Ella Tourist Development Project” and drive about 1km to the entrance gate where you need to buy tickets. (20/- per person and 30/- for the vehicle)

Along the road, drive another 1km or so to the shop, the first viewing platform (not so great a view) and the parking. (The road actually in a not-too-bad condition however, if it’s a car with a low ground clearance, might need to be a bit careful.) From there, it’s about 370 steps drop to the second viewing platform which gives you grandeur view (Tony and his sons once counted the steps and three out of four got 370). There’s a path running to the right at the bottom and take it passing the proposed children play area for a wonderful face-to-face encounter with one of the most beautiful girls in the whole wide world.

I fell head over heel in love with her immediately, it was love at first. She’s second to none, lemme tell you. The top is very narrow and the water is gushing down at a ferocious face making her getting wider and wider till she hits the bottom some 40m down to the rock pool which looks real deep. For our utmost joy, she was in near full flow due to the last couple weeks’ rain in the upcountry. She’s the main stream of the Walawe River that originates from sacred Adam’s Peak and flows to the Indian Ocean at Ambalanthota.

Well from then onwards, it was a frenzy of camera activity and posing for pictures. Continuous click of shutters couldn’t match the roar of the fall that makes some noise. After about half hour we decided to take the same path and go along to the top of the fall. On the top it’s a mixture of rocks and gushing water streams and rock pools. Further up you come across a larger pool with a tiny cascade which I called “Singithi Doovili Ella”.

More pictures and poses till we realized that we’re running outta time pretty fast for our liking and decided to bid our farewell to this gorgeous girlie. Came up the steps to the shop and had some nice plain tea and milk tea (bear in mind the shop doesn’t have electricity, at least not yet – now I’m not about to initiate a project to give them power just like Meemure coz it’s not a dire need for them) and hit the road for a short walk till the rest of the crew got back.

The view along the road was simply magnificent and we almost walked up to the gate itself before the van caught up with us.

The Breakfast feast almost sent them outta business

The sign where you need to take a left turn – Click Image to Enlarge

First view from the top viewing platform, not a clear one though

Weather beaten sign post – all the animals shown there not in site

Just starting towards bottom

The younger fellows coming down with ease

What an opening to the second tier

First glimpse from the second tier… irresistible

Up close… full flow

Coming around to the front of the falls

More and more

Feel like hugging

Can it get any better than this?

Nine-Troop – mission accomplished

Children’s play area

Coming to the top, full of rocks, watch your feet

The “Singithi Doovili Ella” on top

Wide angle…

The river Walawe slowly but steadily flows to make one of the greatest falls of the whole wide world

See the water gushing through the tiny gap

Going towards the south where she joins Indian Ocean

Side view up close

The dark-green base pool (must be real deep)

Water hitting at a ferocious pace

370 steps

The shop at the steps entrance…

Took a walk up towards the entrance

The road in somewhat acceptable state

Galtamyaya Ruins, Thanjanthenna

We turned to the right towards Balangoda to go see Kuragala, our next in line. However, along the way in Thanjanthenna, we came across this archaeological sign “Galtamyaya Gurudiyawala Purana Viharaya” and out of sheer curiosity we decided to take a quick peek and it turned out to be a well spent half hour or so at the premises.

It boasts remains of a Stupa and foundation of a huge Buddhist monastery complex and the whole land was more than one acre in size bordered by a chain link fence with a pad locked gate. There was nobody around to ask about the remains so after we decided to go to the main attraction of Kuragala.

The board displaying Galtamyaya

Looks familiar right? If they think we can preserve these archaeological sites and keep the treasure hunters away by putting up boards like these, well we won’t have anything to go see very soon – Click Image to Enlarge

Excavated to get the foundation

The entrance to the building

Scattered stone pillars

Pity there was no one to inquire about

The stupa still standing tall showing the strong architectural creativity of our ancestors

Possible to get to the stage around the Stupa

Might there have been a shelter covering the whole Stupa

Outer wall

A notice… Treasure hunters don’t bother reading these I guess – Click Image to Enlarge

Having a much needed rest under the Mango trees

Kuragala Buddhist Monastery

Went along the Kalthota towards Balangoda about 2km or so and the sign is there saying Kuragala and took the left turn. There was a Dansala but we simply didn’t have enough time and the queue was a bit too long for our liking even though those people kept pestering us to come have some food. Along the road (which is not in very good condition but passable) we drove another about 1km till we reached a parking area over flowing with vehicles and devotes in white clothes coz it was the Poson Poya.

It was the midday and the sun was angrily showing his rays but we were not to be discouraged. We got off the vehicle at the bottom of the rock and ask Ajith to wait for us at the car park (You have to pay 50/-) and started our ascent. There were hundreds of people milling around and for our great relief there was soft drinks Dansala and two glasses of them went down our parched throats tickling us. We saw some houses built along the path for the Muslim devotees who came there but now look abandoned and one housed a police post.

Further up, we came to the archaeological site and the sign said “Kuragala Archaeological Reserve: Remains of an Ancient Buddhist Monastery Circa 2nd Century B.C.”. We could see the illegal construction had been removed and piled along and the Kuragala Rock was standing majestically. The Muslim people had gone there and built it into one of their own worshipping places after an incident in 1938 according to Tony.

-There had been this person called Abdul Cader Jelani and he’d spent a life of a hermit for about 12 years at the caves there after his wife left him. People took pity to him and he was apparently a very good person. After his death, he was buried there and Muslim people started worshipping the place building numerous structures as a result so many writings and archeologically important things were destroyed-. This is what we got from Tony and the true nature of the story couldn’t be independently verified.

Anyhow, it’s clear that this place was a Buddhist Monastery and inability and inefficiency of our Archeological Department and relevant officials had caused so much irreparable damage to the place. I’m sure so many places like these are hidden in especially in the East without so much of a visit from them. Treasure hunters and other lunatics keep destroying them and it’s such a pity. All those construction work carried out by those people after 1938 must have destroyed so much valuable stone scripts, caves, paintings and many more. The damage is definitely irreparable.

The view from the rock is simply magnificent and aspiring. We came across a Giant Squirrel mother who was feeding on fresh seeds at a nearby tree. Harsha and I spent almost half hour picturing the lady and others had to wait at the top of the rock for our arrival to visit the cave. On the top of the rock is so windy and it must be around 60-70kmph. We kept joking that the fishermen in that area can’t have gone fishing due to strong winds. I thought if the Met department actually meant the winds on top of Kuragala rather than along the coast.

We could see the Budugala Temple from the top clearly and the Stupa was in pristine white surrounded by Buddhist flags. Down below freshly grown paddy fields beaming with vibrant green as if a carpet had been laid. You can keep looking at them without knowing the time fly. Such great medicine for our souls and lifting our spirits so high making you feel ten feet tall. I was over the moon.

There was a split rock and underneath (had to lie down and look up) you can see a foot print but clearly not visible nor able to picture. After so much clicking and posing we went to the stump of the Stupa remaining on the top and thankfully someone bothered to cover around it with a fence.

Then it was time to get down about 20feet to explore the cave. Prasanna who had a torch over his forehead went with Tony followed by Prince and I while Dana and Thilini bringing the rear. I suddenly remembered “Vietnamese Tunnel Rats” and coincidently we had talked about them too on our way. It was pitching dark and our torches had to work over time to pierce it. After about 100ft we came to a somewhat steep hole in the rock which is very narrow (about 1ft in width) entrance. Prasanna, Tony and one other fellow from another group had already at the bottom trying to get further in.

There were hundreds of bats hanging from the rock surface looking angrily at us for disturbing their afternoon siesta. There were Batmen and Batwomen with their Battren (similar to Children) frowning at us coz we had invaded their kingdom violating all Bat rights. If I’m not mistaken they were gonna submit a petition strongly protesting our intervention at their annual conference at Vavulpane. There’ll be lots of Bat(s)men playing there.

Our torch beams made them go crazy and we did our best not to antagonize them. I felt like a joke and just out of nowhere said “Prince, there’re leeches”. You should’ve seen the horror on his face as if seen the Satan himself. He turned at an alarming speed and Thilini shouted not to push her coz he and Tony had a very hilarious experience at Asupini Ella.

While Tony, Thilini and Harsha with Prince coming up the hill after us to see Asupini Ella, Tony had found a couple of leeches on his arm and shown Thilini and Prince. That was more than enough to send him out of his mind and run for his life pushing Thilini out of the way. So she was very scared when Prince turned like an angry bull about to charge at the fella with a red scarf and I held onto him dearly coz I didn’t want Thilini or anyone else getting hammered on his frantic run to safety.

It was so funny and we couldn’t stop laughing even though Thilini felt otherwise. Then we heard that the path wasn’t going nowhere from below as the roof had fallen blocking the tunnel. So Tony climbed back up and it was Prasanna’s turn to come up and it was so frightening to see him struggling to come up past the narrow gap pushing himself up. He was a bit rotund (not as much as a Sumo Player though) and kept turning this way and that way squeezing himself to fit into that gap gasping, frantically trying to get a grip on the rock surface to push up.

Finally he managed to get his sorry self up and the person below him heaved a sigh of relief. So anyone attempting to tackle this tunnel would be better off not trying it especially if you have small children.

We turned around and came back to the safety leaving those bats in peace. It was so annoying to see people taking small kids into the cave even after we told them that it wasn’t safe to do so. Such stupidity is only heard here in SL I suppose. If something happens to anyone there’ll be a major uproar from media and public and the place will get closed down.

Getting up

Steps carved in the stone

Signs of a bushfire evident

Entering into the archaeological site

The remains of the dislodged constructions at the bottom of the picture

Had to wait a long time till the people went away so that the pic will come nice and clean

The top is clearly visible, reminds me of Mihintale

He’s very playful, ain’t he?

Just wondering what to do with it I suppose

Standing tall watching everything

One of the caves and looks as if destroyed by the modifications done lately

Must have been another caves with possible writings and important evidence, but those construction have destroyed all that I guess

What would you call this? Heavenly

56 Budugala Temple and the Stupa on top of the rock

Miles of paddy fields and to the mountain ranges

Don’t misunderstand – it’s not velvet laid on the ground or a wall painting… newly planted paddy field with a hut in the middle

Giant squirrel mum (pretty obvious, isn’t it?)

She might even be pregnant

Munching happily without a care in the world

Noticed us photographing and trying to hide

Narrow pass to reach the top – just like at Dambadeniya (does this mean this used to be a fort)

Right at the top towards Kalthota

Never ending greenery

Pagoda on top – thankfully covered with a fence

Must be centuries old

The entrance area seen from the top

Entrance to the cave – see those wall writing and there used to be a structure here as well (What a waste?)

Tony and Prince leading the way

Thilini is not to be restrained

Kingdom of Bats…

They both were there – Batman and Batwoman with their battren (similar to children)

They were getting deeper away from our beams

Angry looking Bat-grand father

Tony trying to come out coz there was no clear path any further

A touch rotund Prasanna doing his best to squeeze himself to fit into that gap

Horror-stricken Prasanna… it’s written all over his face

Tunnel rats heading back

The difficult pass coming up on our way downhill

Budugala Archeological Site

We came to the Kalthota junction narrowly avoiding getting wet in the splashing rain and took the right turn towards Budugala which is 4.5km away. Along the way, stopped for a quick Wade and water as we hadn’t had anything from breakfast and Prasanna and Wuminda weren’t too happy about it.

Then we reached the Budugala Archeological site and it reminded me of Yapahuwa. There were remains of foundations and we could go up along the built in stone steps. We climbed about 150-200ft and on top there was another foundation of two adjoining palaces maybe. There was a narrow path going further uphill but we had no time to explore it and left it at that.

Those distances were spot on

Holding itself together

Entering into the premises

One of many

View from the steps

Reminds me of Yapahuwa even though they are in tatters

All these tree had this strange parting at the bottom… wonder why

On her way down, looking very tired and flatly refused to go any further

We kept going up

Nearly at the top

More foundations

Twin towers?

Budugala Raja Maha Viharaya

About 100m towards Diyawinna we came to the temple. It was so beautiful and had a replica of the Adam’s Peak taking us up and around rocks passing four Devala. Near one of Devalaya, we saw the other entrance to the cave originates from the top of Kuragala. There was a board saying entering is dangerous and it certainly looked so. There was a giant Buddha statue and was looking very serene. Out we came and on the other side was the climb to the Stupa another 50-60ft up. It was very nicely done and on top you can see miles of paddy fields and small and then larger mountains in the very far. Such grand landscape.

We saw the Kuragala rock from the temple and wish could spend the night on top camping.

.	Entering the temple

Kuragala seen from the temple

Replica of Adam’s peak

The Stupa holding rock and the bell tower

Entrance to the Adma’s peak replica

Budu Medura

Climbing up

That’s a masterpiece

Balanced to the square millimeter

Stupa seen from Adam’s peak replica top

Just like Adam’s peak, you have to put your forehead on the stage there

Rising majestically into the sky

It must have been really difficult to get all these done amid so many barriers

Famous Budugala caves

Keep away boys… (other end of the Kuragala tunnel)

Frightening, don’t attempt it

Mesmerizing

.	Getting up to the Stupa

She’s practicing rock sliding

Full of people the day being Poson

Very soothing to the eyes and mind

This was Tony’s idea of an angle

Green, green and more green

Bidding our farewell

Diyawini Ella

After that around 5.00pm, while the dusk was falling around us we decided to hit the road and go see Diyawini Ella as well coz didn’t wanna miss her having come so close. Thankfully Athula had one of his friends, Indrajith, who knew the area met with us near the temple on his bike. He told us that we can see the falls and wasn’t sure if we can get near her.

We stepped on the gas and after about another 5-6km reached a place where we saw the gorgeous Diyawini Ella over the lush greenish paddy fields. Screaming at Ajith to stop the van, we got off as if trying to abduct someone and I saw Dana already setting the tripod on the road for a professional pic. She was so beautiful even though not in her best dress and Athula and Tony had to practically drag us back into the van saying that we could get closer.

Then we came to the sign board on the right announcing it was the road to the “Sri Devagiri Purana Gallen Viharaya” 1km away and Indrajith pointed we can get near the falls through the temple. While Athula was discussing with him, we kept hitting the shutter button. Then off towards temple we stopped near a house which had a grand view of the falls 24/7. I felt so jealous of the residents and hearing my complaints Tony and Athula even tried to bring a proposal from that house supposing there’s a girl there (I’m not saying they look like my uncles  I wouldn’t certainly have minded on the condition of having that house as the dowry.

Along the road we kept taking pictures while the Sun trying his best to give us optimal lighting for our pictures. Tony said that there was an abandoned house and I felt like bunking down there for the night and start picturing her in the morning sun. However, Prince kept saying it must be haunted and we might be dragged outta our beds in the night by those spirits.

We came right up to the temple where a small notice nailed to a coconut tree said “Diyawini Ella” and I wish it was early morning.

It was really dark by then and we bid our farewell to that majestic lady while Dana questioned if she was the one who can be seen from the Udawalawa Dam. After some conference, we figured it might be and we all wanted to come during the day for her and then go to Udawalawa for confirmation. (I guess one of the members could verify this for us)

To be honest, we were over the moon even though felt knackered physically. It was very well spent 12+ hours on the road and I don’t think it could’ve gone any better. We followed the Diaywinna-Kapugala road till we came to a junction where a right turn directed us back onto the Kalthota road to Balangoda. We heard a slight mourning coming from the front seat and I figured it must be the sentimental guy I mentioned at the beginning coz Ajith, our driver, had no reason to do that.

Well folks, it was hard getting all these facts onto my fairy tale and hope it will keep you busy for a good hour or two going through top to bottom. As I mentioned somewhere at the beginning I’m not allowed to put some very interesting stories here. It was so nice being with my 9-Troop and many more will surely follow.

P.S. I shot three short video clips of Doovili Ella and Kuragala which I uploaded to Youtube. I’ve given the links below and do take a look at them as well and leave your feedback.

First glimpse, jumped outta Van like Army training

I simply love these colors

Getting closer

Thilini got their name, can’t remember now

One of my favorite picture taking places… paddy fields

Just got to the turning

There it is… that 1km is spot on – Click Image to Enlarge

Kept clicking the shutter

Reaching to her

This must be a terrific shower

Athula in a hurry to get closer – This is the view from the house I mentioned about… pretty envious

Top of the fall, there’s this unusual curving there

Hand-held twilight feature getting some decent shots

No complaints here… more paddy fields… more the merrier

Getting dark by the minute

I kept bumping into little ones right throughout

Running towards the temple

Wish it was morning…

Not in full flow, but more than enough to keep me engrossed

The nailed sign on the coconut tree

Just took this pic of the entrance of the temple…