Two Millennia in 5 days ( Anuradhapura – Polonnaruwa kingdoms)

I had a booking of 3 nights at Anuradhapura for a different purpose but it  was suddenly cancelled. Since all plans has been made to be out of Colombo, we decided to make a best of it and take a long vacation especially for kids.

Since most of the places visited are common, this report will be more of a photo journey with little text.

But I will try to avoid adding the standard photos that everybody takes and try to give you a different perspective of each site.

The list of places covered is as follows

1. Tabbowa Wewa
2. Erabadugaswewa Ruins
3. Silachethiya
4. Royal Palace of King Vijayabahu I
5. Kuttam Pokuna
6. Sri Maha Bodhi
7. Ransi Malakaya
8. Ruwanweli Seya
9. Jethawanarama Stupa
10. Patama Cheithya (couldn’t locate)
11. Nakha Vehera
12. Samadhi Statue
13. Abhayagiri Stupa
14. Sandakada Pahana I
15. Ratnaprasada
16. Sandakada Pahana II
17. Burrows Pavilion
18. Samadhi Statue III
19. Vijayarama Ruins (couldn’t reach due to road condition)
20. Stone Bridge over Malwathu Oya
21. Stone Bridge over Halpan Ela
22. Thuparamaya
23. Padalanchana Chethiya
24. Lankaramaya
25. Patanagaraya
26. Mirisawetiya
27. Madhu Church
28. Thantirimale Rajamaha Viharaya
29. Barathanaga Lena Aranaya
30. Navodagama Archaeological Site
31. Tholuvila Ruins

 

Polonnaruwa Kingdom

32. Palace of king Parakramabahu
33. Audience Hall of King Parakramabahu
34. Kumara Pokuna
35. Siva Kovil no 1
36. Watadage
37. Boddhisttva Image
38. Thuparama Image House
39. Nissangalatha Mandapaya
40. Oth Pilimaya
41. Atadage
42. Hetadage
43. Galpotha
44. Sathmahal Prasadaya
45. Rankoth Dagoba – Gal Asanaya
46. Rankoth Dagoba
47. Gal Viharaya
48. Nelum Pokuna
49. Thiwanka Pilimage
50. Nai Pena Viharaya
51. Ruins infront of Nai Pena Viharaya
52. Parakrama Samudraya
53. Statue of King Parakramabahu
54. Pothgul Vehera.

We left Colombo around 7 AM and made the first stop at Puttalam and enjoyed the view of Norochchole Power Plant and the Wind Farms of of Puttalam

Tabbowa Wewa

Our next stop was at the Tabbowa Wewa which was filled to the brim with the recent rains. Tabbowa wewa is believed built by King Kawantissa.

Erabadugaswewa Ruins

I have read of a ruined site in Erabadugaswewa but didn’t know the exact location. All I knew was the turn off was about a kilometer passing Tabbowa wewa.

Luckyly a half broken archaeology department ‘Kalu’ board appeared after travelling 2.2 kms from the tank. I took this turn and almost immediately entered a jungle path which was part of the Tabbowa Sanctuary. With no human habitation around, we continued for about a kilometer enjoying the solitary road. This is a gravel road but easily travelled even on a car.

The ruins were a rather disappointment with only few well preserved granite pillars visible near the road. There is supposed to be a ruined stupa beyond the pillars and another stupa on the other side of the road. But the jungle has covered all this and fresh elephant dung on the road and the kids screaming not to go in prevented me from exploring  it further.

Traveling further down, the road ended up in a jungle hotel called Tabbowa Eco Village. Has anybody stayed here ?

Overall the diversion was enjoyable even though the ruined site was a disappointment.

Half broken board directing to Erabadugaswewa Ruins

Entering the Tabbowa Sanctuary

Solitary Road to the ruins

The few ruins near the road was all that was visible

The few ruins near the road was all that was visible

Solitary Road to the ruins

On the solitary Road to the ruins

A small jungle shrine passing the ruins

Next destination was  Anuradhapura. With the weather gods still on our side, we tried to make the best of the time we have.

Silachethiya – Kujjatissa Stupa

We went pass Ruwanweliseya but didn’t get down since we weren’t dressed properly but stopped at a small stupa by the road called Silachethiya ( Kujjatissa Stupa) which doesn’t seems to be attracting much attention of the pilgrims.

According to the description this stupa has been built before 2^nd century BC but the current ruins belongs to late Anuradhapura period.

The stupa is built on a square platform with granite steps reaching the stupa on all 4 sides. Beautifully carved granite guard stones and balustrades adorn the each flight of steps.

Silachethiya ( Kujjatissa Stupa)

Silachethiya ( Kujjatissa Stupa)

Guard stones at each entrance adorn the flight of steps

Guard stones at each entrance adorn the flight of steps

Royal Palace of King Vijayabahu I 

Next stop was Royal Palace of King Vijayabahu I. King Vijayabahu I ascended to throne in 1055 in the Rohana and 18 years after that and 3 years after defeating the Colas from India he celebrated his consecration in Anuradhapura. But he selected to rule from Polonnaruwa and shifted the capital there.

The Royal Palace of King Vijayabahu I we see today is thought to be the temporary palace he constructed to for the celebrations in Anuradhapura.

The royal palace

Protected walls with paintings

Bahirawa Guard stones at the foot of the entrance

Bahirawa Guard stones at the foot of the entrance

Walls of the palace

More ruins opposite the palace.

Kuttam Pokuna 

It was now drizzling and getting dark, but we made a final call to Kuttam Pokuna. For the first time I saw it filled to the top with steps leading to the bottom completely submerged.

First and second filter basins of Kuttam pokuna

Naga Stone

3rd and 4th filter basins of Kuttam Pokuna. Water reached the pond only after being filtered 4 times.

A korawakgala at the pond

It was time to get back to our hotel but on the way I managed to get a good night shot of Ruwanweliseya lit up

Ruwanweli Seya after dark

Sri Maha Bodhi

Day 2

Sri Maha Bodhiya 

We started day 2 around 8 AM and started from Sri Maha Bodhiya and Ruwanweliseya

Lovamahapaya and other ruins 

Although everybody visits Ruwanweli Seya, few take time to look at the ruins around the road between the bodhiya and seya other than the lovamahapaya

This road is filled with ruins but only one seems to be identified by a name board

Ransi Malakaya – The meeting place of Mahavihara Bikkus – click to enlarge

Ransi Malakaya

Ruins between Sri Maha Bodhi and Ruwanweliseya

Wildlife among the ruins

Wildlife among the ruins

Lovamahapaya

Ruwanweli Seya 

Although it was a weekday, Ruwanweli Seya was teaming with people.

Ruwanweli Seya distorted by perspectiv

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Jethawanaramaya 

Next Stop was Jethawanaramaya. Jethawanaramaya was built by King Mahasena of Anuradhapura (276-303) was completed by his son Sirimeghavanna. It was originally 400 feet (122 meters) in height and was the third tallest building in the world at that time. Even today as a brick monument, Jethawanaramaya still remains the tallest of its kind in the world.

Jetawanramaya – finally the restorations  has been completed

The salapathala maluwa is packed with hundreds of slabs with inscriptions. Wonder if they have been read.

Naga and Naginee carvings on the sides of the Wahalkada

Seven hooded naga carvings on the sides of Wahalkada

Patama Cheithya

Next we came across a direction to a site called Patama Cheithya. We took a gravel road which went along the Halpan Ela but even the residents in the areas was unaware of such a place and finally showed us a small forest patch in middle of a paddy field and said there were some ruins there.

Unfortunately we there was no path towards this patch and only thing we could see from distance was a peacock dancing in the shade.

Directions to Patama Chetiya

All we could find

Nakha Vehera 

We turned back to the main road  and travelling further on the same road we came to the Signboard of Nakha Vehera. We again took this path and immediately realized that no one seems have come this way for a long time. The path was overgrown with weed and turned in to a muddy road which only the 4 wheel drive allowed us to proceed. The distance was short but there is no way any other vehicle could travel on this during the rainy season.

Nakha vehera is one of the 4 known square shaped stupas in Sri Lanka. The most popular is the Sathmahal Prasadaya of Polonnaruwa kingdom built during 11th -13th century. The rest of the 3 stupas can be found in the ancient Anuradhapura kingdom which are rarely visited by the pilgrims. The other 2 belongs to the Abhayagiriya Monastic Complex. One of them is known as Indikatu Seya (aka Prasada Stupa). The other lies west of Eth Pokuna on the western border of the Abhayagiri Monastery.

Disappearing road to Nakha Vehera

The state of the road

Nakha Vehera

Nakha Vehera

Samadhi Statue 

Next stop was Samadhi Statue. Next to the Samadhi statue is an ruins of an image house which is called Bodhisattva Image House. According to Maha Vamsa, the great chronicle of Sri Lanka, it is said that the King Dhatusena (459-477) has built an  image house for the Maithree Bodhisattva left to the Abhayagiriya Bodhi Tree Shrine and had decorated with royal garments. It is believed these remains are the image house built by king Dhatusena. An limestone Bodhisattva image has been found buried in the rubble which has been dated to the 5th century.

It  was starting to drizzle again.

Samadhi Statue

Boadhisattva image house near Samadhi Statue

Abhayagiri Stupa 

Next stop was Abhayagiriya Stupa which too has completed the restoration work.

Abayagiri Stupa today stands at 74.98 meters to the tip of the damaged spire. It is the second largest stupa in the island today. According to the 5th century traveler Chinese monk Fa-Hsien’s descriptions, this stupa has been 400 feet (122 meters) in height and has been decorated with gold and silver and studded with all kinds of jewels. There also has been a 20 foot (6.1 meters) high Buddha statue made out of green jade.

Abayagiri Stupa

A restored vahalkada

From there, with umbrellas at hand we continued to the other ruins of Abhayagiriya Aramic Complex.

Sandakada Pahana I 

This is the most popular moonstone in the Anuradhapura kingdom. The moonstone is placed at the entrance to an equally elegant staircase.

It’s unfortunate to see that visitors start snapping photos of the Sandaka Pahana from the steps as soon as they arrive without ever realizing that they are standing on equally elegant works of art.

Bahirawa carvings on the steps

Lion carvings on the steps

Ratnaprasada (with guardstone) 

What Lova Maha Prasada was to Maha Vihara complex, Rathna Prasada is to Abhayagiri. The competition of these two sects of monks can be seen from the size and name of the buildings. Even the names seem to be competing with each other. This building consists of the best preserved guard stone of the Anuradhapura kingdom

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Sandakada Pahana II 

Unknown to many, there is another moonstone close to Ratnaprasada. Unfortunately very few visitors steps outside the main ruins to enjoy these hidden jewels of Anuradhapura.

According to a plaque installed by the Department of Archeology, This moonstone is the most exquisite artistic creation of a moonstone found in Sri Lanka according to Prof. Senarath Paranawithana.

Moonstone II

Bahirawa carvings on the steps

Borrows Pavilion 

This Stone Pavilion (Burrows Pavilion)  is thought to be the entrance to the oldest Bodhighara in the Abayagiri Complex where the Third Samadhi Statue lies. This canopy has been restored by S. M. Burrows, the head of Archeology Department during (1884-1886) and thus the name.

Borrows Pavilion

Borrows Pavilion

Third Samadhi Statue and the Asanaghara 

Close to the Borrows Pavilion lies Third Samadhi Statue. The site is located below the ground level and it was filled with water.

third Samadhi Statue and the Asanaghara

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Vijayarama Ruins 

Next we took the road toward Gal Palama and  my destination was Vijayarama Ruins off this road. I have visited this site about 15 years ago in a late evening when elephants used to roam the area.

We located the turn off to the ruins but almost immediately hit a road with soft clay and only tractor track could be seen. Despite advice from a villager I went all wheels spinning and sliding over soft clay pits but after some time realized the whole road up to the site is equally bad. With only kids and wife onboard, I decided to turn back and leave it for another day.

Gal Palama over Malwathu Oya 

We continued on the main road to reach the Gal Palama over malwathu oya. The Malwathu Oya was at full flow with rains and the water levels reached the stone slabs of the Gal Palama.

Galpalama over Malwathu Oya

Gal Palama over Halpan Ela

Gal Palama over Halpan Ela 

This is another site rarely visited. One reason is this bridge is careful concealed by an communal building and no indication of the existence of the bridge is seen. Unless you know of it, you will never visit it. This lies about 100 meters before the Gal Palama over Malwathu Oya.

Thuparamaya 

Next was Thuparamaya. Unfortunately this ground has been modernized beyond recognition and the antiquity has been totally lost. We then visited the ruins of Dalada Maligaya on the temple grounds.

Thuparamaya

Ruins of the Dalada Geya

Moonstones of the Dalada Geya

Moonstones of the Dalada Geya

Padalanchana Chethiya

On the opposite side of the Dalada Medura lies a small stupa called Padalanchana Chethiya. It has been built covering the footprint of Buddha during his 3^rd visit by the Langatissa.

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Next we made a quick stop at Lankaramaya. It was almost 6 PM and drizzling.

Lankaramaya 

The Lankaramaya  stupa was built on the 1st century BC by King Vattagamini Abaya (Walagamba). The ancient name of this temple is “Silasobbha Khandaka Cetiya”

Patanagaraya

With the rain ceasing we decided to make a quick trip to Mirisawetiya and on the way came across a Patanagaraya Complex which has been preserved.

Patanagaraya monasteries were used by forest dwelling meditating monks and the unique feature of such complexes are that they are surrounded by a moat. They lack any decorations other than the urinals which are caved very elegantly.

patanagaraya Aramic Complex

patanagaraya Aramic Complex

patanagaraya Aramic Complex

Elegantly caved urinal stone

Mirisawetiya Stupa 

It was 6.30 and quite dark when we reached Mirisawetiya Stupa

Mirisawetiya Dagaba has been built by King Dutugamunu (161-137 BC) and this belongs to Mahavihara Complex.

When the great king Dutugamunu was going to the water festival after his consecration he left his scepter (kunta) which had a scared relic of Buddha inside, on this location. When he returned, the kunta was stuck and nobody could remove it. So the king seeing this miracle constructed a Dagaba here.

Mirisawetiya Stupa

A preserved Vahalkada of the stupa

That was the end of day 2

 

Day 3

Madu Church 

We  planned to go out of the Anuradhapura town on day 3. We took the road to Medawachchiya and drove to Madu Church. The weather was hot this day.

Halfway down the Mannar road we saw few notices mentioning about a hanging bridge even stating how many kilometers to it. We inquired about this from a cop on the road and he stated that it was Cable Bridge built during the colonial era but visitors cannot reach it since the river has flooded.

So we continued towards Madu

During Dutch period, Madhu has been a  Devale dedicated to Goddess Pattini which probably has been existing since the Anuradhapura Kingdom. Godess Pattini is worshiped by Sinhalese and Tamils irrespective of the religions in Sri Lanka.

When the Dutch started prosecuting the Catholics, about 700 Tamil Catholics fleeing from Jaffna settled in the Madu area. At some point of time a church was built on the ground of Pattini Devale and the devale disappeared without a trace. With the invasion of the English and the subsequent defeat of the Dutch from the coastal areas the Catholic prosecution stopped and the annual possession of Madhu was started in 1870. In 1876 foundation stone of the current church was laid down.

Mahamankadawala Tank filled to the brim on the Jaffna Road

the few ruins near the road was all that was visible

Thantirimale 

Then we turned back towards Medawachchiya and turned towards Thantirimale. At the entrance itself there was board stating that this road was underwater and not to proceed.

We asked a cop at the junction if the road was still underwater and he assured that a jeep can cross it. So we proceeded on the road and found many Sapaththu bridges underwater but only about 6-10 inches. We were wondering what the fuss was about but finally we realized what the cop said when we had cross one long Sapattu Bridge which was about 1 ½ feet under water. Obviously this was the point which the cop talked about. (see part of the crossing here – I was driving quite slowly – started filming late – Video )

Thantirimale temple was built in the Third Century BC and used by King Devanampiyatissa as a one-day stop to Arahanth Theri Sangamitta on her way to Anuradhapura, Thanthirimale Rajamaha Viharaya has then developed from a small temple to a large monastery by the end of the Anuradhapura period.

entrance to the Ashtapala Bodhi at the top

Ashtapala Bodhi along with the ancient Bodhigara

View from the top

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Barathanaga Lena 

Traveling few kms from Thantirimale towards Anuradhapura, you come across board directing you the Barathanaga Lena Archaeological site. This is a complex of ancient drip-ledge caves going back to the 3rd century BC.

Number of caves with inscriptions and Vaddha paintings are preserved at this site

Solitary Road to the ruins – click to enlarge

The few ruins near the road was all that was visible

Paintings of the caves

Paintings of the caves

Many caves with inscriptions

Many caves with inscriptions

Many caves with inscriptions

Many caves with inscriptions

the tree roots has grown over the rock resembling a woman’s face with hair falling on the sides

Many caves with inscriptions

Navodagama Ruins 

We continued on the same road and came across another Kalu Board for Nawodagma Archaeology Site. This lies next to the road and consist of one restored stupa and pillars of what had been a Tampita Viharaya

The area around the tampita Viharaya has been encroached by the jungle but photo of the same place by Ashan G. shows that it been well cleared in January.

I had a chat with the priest residing there and he was talking of all difficulties he is undergoing there. I could see that he is living a hard life, and made a donation. But I am sure he will destroy the antiquity of the site if he get enough money. He was already trying to build 3 life size Buddha statues in concreate.

To Navodagama Ruins

Ruined Stupa

The remains of Tampita viharaya invaded by the jungle

A statue unearthed during excavations

Tholuvila Ruins

We reached Anuradhapura around 5 and as the last call we stopped at the site of Tholuvila Ruins.

Toluvila Aramic Complex lies in the outer circle of the ancient Anuradhapura city, close to the Anuradhapura railway station. It has been identified as the place where the Great Mahinda Thero took shelter on their way from Chethiya Pabbatha to Maha Viharaya in the 3rd century BC.

The monastery is appears to be belonging to the late Anuradhapura period (7-9th centuries). The original name of this site has not been discovered and it is now known as Toluvila, the name of the village.

The main image house at Toluvila

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The main image house at Toluvila

The main image house at Toluvila

Buildings around main image house

Toluvila Ruins – click to enlarge

And tomorrow we will head towards the next kingdom – Polonnaruwa.

Day 4

We left the hotel around 7 AM and took the Maradankadawala – Habarana road passing Ritigala Mountains towards Polonnaruwa.

We took breakfast at an place run by Army end reached Polonnaruwa at about 9 AM. With no place to stay I called a friend working in the area and requested to book a decent place for the family and entered the ruined area of Polonnaruwa.

Palace of King Parakramabahu 

We did the usual stops starting from the Palace of King Parakramabahu.

This is a majestic palace build by king Parakramabahu I (1153-1186) with seven stories and said to have 1000 chambers. Although the main building possibly couldn’t hold such a number of chambers, when you consider the whole palace complex it is thought that this number is a possibility.

Plaster of the palace surviving for thousands of years

Melted brick walls by the heat when the palace was set ablaze by the South Indian invaders

Huge Walls

Granite Steps to the upper floors

Royal Court of king Parakramabahu 

Built on 3 layers of solid rock, the border of the first layer is decorated with carved elephants each in a different posture. Second layer border is carved with figures of lions and the last layer with images of “Wamana”

Royal Court of king Parakramabahu

Carvings on the sides

The moonstone on the 2nd level

The moonstone on the 1st level

The lion at the entrance

Elegant carvings on stone pillars

Kumara Pokuna 

This granite pond has been used during the period of King Parakramabahu ( 1153-1186). On the side this pond are  remains of the changing rooms

Kumara Pokuna

The Changing Rooms by the pond

Siva Devalaya No 1  

Shiva Kovil (no. 1) is the first kovil you will come across after entering the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. The walls of this kovil are made out of a closely fitted stone blocks of a type which is not found anywhere near Polonnaruwa.

Made of granite

Water outlets

Watadage 

This  Watadage has been built before the time of Nissanga Malla (1187-1196) but he has carried out major renovations on this building. So what you see today is probably his work.

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Statue of Bodhisattva 

This statue lies in the center of the Dalada Maluwa at a slightly elevated ground. The arms of the statue are missing.  It is unclear whether this is a statue of King Nissanga Malla (1187-1196)  or a bodhisattva.

Thuparama Image House 

This  is one of the few buildings where you can see a roof completely made out of bricks. Almost the whole building has survived over 900 years miraculously.

The building was covered with shuttering therefore the photo below was taken some time ago

Photo taken some time ago

Carved Buddha statues inside the image house

Nissanka Latha Mandapaya 

The most important feature of this building is the shape and the carvings of the stone pillars. These pillars are carved in the shape of a lotus stork and are curved in three places. The top of the pillars take form of a lotus flower.

The lotus stalk shaped granite pillars

The granite stupa at the center

Oth Pilimaya 

Remain of an image house where a reclining Buddha Statue on a pedestal is made completely of bricks. Surrounding the statue is remains of a building where only the rock pillars remains.

Western Entrance (from the Parakrama Samudraya Side) to the Dalada Maluwa

What remains of the Image house and the reclining statue

Atadage 

Atadage Dalada Maligaya is the house of the tooth relic of Buddha built by King Vijayabahu I (1070-1110). This building is built on 54 stone pillars. The tooth relic has been kept on the second floor which was probably made out of wood.

Fine carvings on the pillars of Atadage

Fine carvings on the pillars of Atadage

Fine carvings on the pillars of Atadage

Fine carvings on the pillars of Atadage

Atadage

Velikkara slab inscription by the side of Atadage

Hetadage 

Next building was Hetadage the newer temple of tooth built by either King Parakramabahu or Nissangamalla.

As you enter, the side walls and the main outer wall rock slabs are filled with inscriptions. This too has been a two storied building with the Tooth Relic being kept at the top.

Fine carvings of dwarf figures on the outer walls of Hetadage

Slab inscription at the entrance

Slab Inscriptions on the outer wall

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.	A Buddha Statue inside the Hetadage

A Buddha Statue inside the Hetadage

Gal Potha 

Next lays Galpotha and the, the largest slab inscription in the country.

Satmahal Prasadaya 

Next to Galpotha and the last in the Dalada Maluwa is the Satmahal Prasadaya. This is a one of the 4 square type stupas found in the country with other 3 being in Anuradhapura

Gajalakshmi Carving on the side of Galpotha

Satmahal Prasadaya

Rankoth Vehera 

The sun was blazing hot and we decided to skip the Pabalu Vehera and Menik Vehera and headed to Rankoth Vehera, the largest stupa belonging to the Polonnaruwa Era.

On the left to the path leading to the vehera lies a slab inscription by King Nissangamalla describing the building of the stupa and how he sat on this slab to observe the construction.

The slab inscription

Remains of a image house

A granite window frame on the image house

Remains of the reclining image inside the image house

A vahalkada

Remains of a standing Buddha statue inside one image house

Gal Viharaya 

Then we skipped Lankathilaka and Kiriwehera and proceeded to Gal Viharaya

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Damila Maha Seya 

Then we went to Damila Maha Seya, the massive stupa which was never completed. If king Parakramabahu had been able to complete this Stupa, this would be 186 meters (570 feet) tall and would have been the largest Buddhist monument built by man.

The stupa is now being renovated and covered with galvanized sheets. Therefore we did not take any photos

In 2008 I managed to climb to the top of the stupa. No pilgrim even knew of this stupa and to travel this 200 meters or so required a 4 wheel drive unless you walked. The top of the stupa was as big as football field. And a small stupa at the center was the only building at the top. Please see the link above to see the photos taken during this visit.

Nelum Pokuna 

Our next step was Nelum Pokuna on the way to Thivanka Image House.

Thivanka Image House 

This ruin has been under restoration since the first days which visited Polonnaruwa and the shuttering around this building has been covering the whole structure for more than 10 years. But from the inside you could see some progress of the work.

remains of a guardian on the side of the entrance

Only flash less photography is allowed inside to protect the fragile paintings

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Depiction of Jathaka Stories on the inner wall of the building

Depiction of Jathaka Stories on the inner wall of the building

Depiction of Jathaka Stories on the inner wall of the building

Terracotta lions on the outer walls of the Pilimage

After the Thivanka Pilimage, we exited the ruined area and drove back to the main road.

Nai Pena Viharaya 

Between the exit and the main road lies Nai Pena Viharaya which in fact is an ancient Siva kovil. Spread over a large area complete with ponds compared to Siva Kovils in ruined city.

Apparently there is a caving of a seven headed cobra which had given rise to the name Nai Pena but couldn’t locate it this time.

Ruins of the main building of Nai Pena Viharaya

Outer buildings

Main Hall towards inner sanctum

Main Halls

A finely polished Siva Lingum

Opposite to Naipena Viharaya on the other side of the road lies another smaller kovil made out of granite. On the sides are two more buildings. There is no description about the buildings.

We couldn’t reach this building due the ground which it stood was filled with water from the previous day’s rain. Therefore I couldn’t assess to which deity it was dedicated.

Most probably this was part of the Nai Pena Viharaya complex in the ancient past.

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Prarakrama Samudraya 

From the Nai Pena Viharaya we took to the Parakrama Samudraya and drove about a kilometer to reach a small clearing with the small shrine.

We parked under a massive tree and got out to take a few minutes to absorb the beauty of this tank.

Pothgul Vehera 

Myself and wife were feeling quite tired although the kids were full of energy.  So we proceeded towards the final site for the day, Potgul Vehera.

Parakrama Statue

Potgul Vehera

A ruined stupa close to the Parakrama Statue

Walls with plaster still intact inside potgul vehera

Ending the tour for the day, we went towards Kaduruwela in search of a place to eat. In the meantime my friend called me and confirmed a room for the night.

We found a place which looked decent and had lunch there. But for the benefit of readers, I was told that a place called Kehel Kole which lies about 1 km from the Polonnaruwa Junction is the most popular of the office crowd (who are not local residents) for breakfast and lunch. It’s supposed have the largest buffet style spread of local delicacies at very reasonable prices.

Then we went to out booked destination, Hotel Mahanuge. The kids jumped in to the pool which is their highlight for the day and we just relaxed.

 

Day 5

Manampitiya Rail-Road Bridge 

This was our back to base day so no more site visits. We left the hotel around 9 AM, but we wanted to show the Manampitiya Rail-Road Bridge to the kids. We drove pass Kaduruwela and came to a halt due to some major traffic jam. Since the vehicles were not moving at all I turned back the vehicle (before everybody starts driving on the righ side and creating even a bigger jam) stopped the vehicle and walked towards the origin of the traffic jam. The Gallella area was flooded and water was flowing over the road and a bridge. The whole area looked almost the tank. I think about 200 meters were under water ( see video clip ). Although water was about 1 foot deep, police was allowing one vehicle at time to pass cross the water.

I didn’t want to waste 2 hours going up and down in this traffic jam just see the bridge and thus drove back towards Polonnaruwa and then to Habarana.

The kids were thrilled to see a wild elephant grazing by the road on the Habarana Road. So we ticked elephants on Habarana road from our list of things to see and moved on.

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To get a view of Sigiriya, we took a left turn on the Harbarana Road to which took us directly though Sigiriya avoiding Habarana.

The road is very scenic with forest on the both sides of the road in most areas. Getting close to Sigiriya we could see the electric fences along the road to stop the wild elephants crossing to the road.

Then suddenly – fresh elephant dung right in the middle of the road!! This couldn’t be more than an hour old.

Has an elephant crossed the fence? …. Could it be still around? …. Will we able to see it? … Kids were thrilled with excitement and were looking through the windows to scan the passing forest for a sign of life… for a sign of large life

Then suddenly …… BINGO!!!! … the elephant appeared right in front of us walking along the road ……………… carrying a bunch of tourists on it back. – What an anticlimax for the kids.

Anyway we came along the road up to Sigiriya entrance to snap some photos. Climbing it is going to be for another day.

Peaceful Sigiriya Road

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And the rest of the trip back home was more or less eventless.

 

Notes about Hotels:

Happy Leoni – Stayed in the new wing each room has 2 double beds. Charges by occupants. Has a clean pool and rooms are very good. AC/Hotwater working well. 4 storied building with a lift.

Service is excellent. Staff very friendly.

They agreed to charge us for a triple room rate. Triple room half board cost 7550/- +10SC. But they remove the SC without any fuss. Old wing costs about Rs 500 less.

Maha Nuge – Supposed to be the best mid class hotel in Polonnaruwa. I got a discounted price since I booked through a known party. But I think it’s about 20-40% higher than previous hotel rate. Only 12 rooms. Meals buffet style. Good environment and pool. Rooms even better. Landscaped garden.

Entrance

Restaurant