Hot springs and arch sites around Mahaoya + Padiyathalawa

Map 1 – click image to enlarge

Map 2 – Click image to enlarge

It was a period of mixed weather and I had been away from temples and Archeology sites for a while so decided to have a small tour around Padiyathalawa and Maha oya region on a weekend. Visiting archeology sites and temples is not an easy task since there are many issues lately that cause significant problems and it’s essential to win the trust of the head priests these days otherwise you would be labeled as a “Nidan hora” and be arrested by the 119 squad. Despite all the barriers I decided continue on my quest so on a Saturday I headed towards Padiyathalawa and took a bus towards Wahawa to start things off.

Though the main objective of the day was to visit the infamous hot water springs of Wahawa I did manage to visit two more places on the same road. My first stop was at Holike RMV which is now a modified temple with very few ruins around. Out of those I came across a Korawak stone and some steps leading towards a “Budu geya” in ruins. And also there were few pillars around been re arranged as a fence. Next stop was at Dorakumbura junction where I had to get down and walk towards Wahawa hot water springs. The walk towards Wahawa hot water springs was not a joyful walk at all because of the extreme heat and humid conditions plus the road been under construction was not helping the cause at all. After 2Km I reached the ancient temple of Wahawa where few pillars can be found and not so far from it there were few monoliths with remnants of a pagoda. A very special monolith in the shape of a creeper was also observed, according to legend it is said that it was used as a towel hanger for the royal members (Magama kingdom) who had a bath from the nearby hot spring. Though there were few hot water springs in the surrounding area I only could visit 4 of them. The main spring was pumping out water at a height of 7 feet with immense pressure and is an ideal place for a bath. Local villages use the water from these springs for their cultivations in a well-planned manner.

pillars re arranged at Holike

a lamp at holike

ancient steps at holike

Wahawa ancient temple

an ancient sthupa with a unique pillar

and it meets the ground

the high pressure hot water pipe

feeding the paddy fields

hot water wells everywhere

bubbling

a hot water well

Hela gala very tempting

posing

Next I had to walk back towards Dorakumbura junction to continue towards Loonubokka to visit Nagiri Len viharaya and it was a walk in hot and humid conditions and if a local villager didn’t volunteer to take me there I would be still walking. So if you are using public transport the best thing is to first visit Nagiri temple. This peaceful temple is an archeological site with few drip ledge caves with inscriptions which is located at the base of Hela gala. The chief monk is very kind and will treat you well as he can. He did volunteer to show me around too. The main Nagiri lena is been modified and is used for meditation purpose. The cold nature in the cave feels like a blessing in these heated up conditions. There were plenty of ruins scattered around the main cave too. This cave hermitage is said to be once occupied by “Rahathan Thero’s” during the forgotten past and later modified by king Saddathissa. Next we took a foot path towards the hill to explore two more caves and one with the flat roof is the place where locals observe Sil. The chief monk said he could arrange meditation facilities for the he people who seek a peaceful location at one of these caves. These are the contact numbers of the chief monk 0635683239/0723794301

the main cave at nagiri len viharaya

the head priest showing around

the largest karaduwa in ampara district

contribute to a nobel cause – Click to enlarge

ruins at nagiri len viharaya

inside was very cool

drip ledge cave

the cave for observing sil

the view from the cave

From Loonubokka I somehow got a lift to Padiyathalawa where I took a bus towards Maha oya and soon after getting off at Maha oya I walked towards Bollegama RMV which is located right in front of the hospital. This ancient temple which is now a modified place is said to be done by king Saddathissa. Currently only few ruins pilled together in a corner serves as evidence about it’s past. Next I got together with one of my friends from Maha oya hospital and headed 2km on Aralaganvila road and visited the famous hot water springs of Maha oya and I did check in on each and every well to feel the temperature difference

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Wrapped in legends of its origin and their mythical healing powers of its water the seven hot water springs of Mahaoya is a magnet to the travelers, who had been flocking to Ampara with the end of the thirty year war. 

Located about 2km off Mahaoya town, the springs are said to be one of the hottest springs of all the hot springs in Sri Lanka. The temperature of the hottest well is about 56C .

Each spring is enclosed by a stone wall to form seven individual wells, which in turn are covered by a wall to provide privacy to those who bathe. The size of each well varies. The bottom of the well is formed of quartz, sand and gravel and thus the water is clear and not muddy. The temperature of each well varies and due to its mineral composition the water is said to cure skin ailments and arthritis.

The best time to visit is either early in the morning or late evening when the sun goes down as it is quiet and sounds of the night give a calming effect. A ticketing counter at the entrance issues tickets and provide the visitors with buckets for a nominal fee and the visitors would be advised to use the water sparsely so that the springs will flow for posterity. Furthermore the use of soap should be avoided in order to reduce the pollution of the spring water. 

image house at bollagala RMV

pagoda at bollagama RMV

decorated bo tree at bollagama RMV

ruins at bollegama

ruins at bollagama RMV

bubbling

Maha oya hot water wells

Passing the hot water wells and heading further towards Unuwaturabubula will take one towards a junction with a black board directing towards Veheragala hermitage which can be reached by any vehicle. This was once covered with dense forest but now the place is a fully functional place with many monks meditating in the drip ledge caves. This is a peaceful and serene hermitage and is a worthy place to visit. We also noted a fleet of steps on the opposite hill leading towards an ancient pagoda

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Deep in Mahaoya close to the hot water wells is an ancient monastery of the second century BC, which had been the abode of meditating monks even few decades ago.

The ruins of the ancient monastery spread across nearly 10 acres and had been savaged at various times in search of treasures and building material. The two stupas at the bottom of the rock plateau had been ravaged to a pile of rocks. Stone tablets made are found in site broken while the stone door frame had been stolen by relic hunters.  Closer to the stupa are the remain of a building including a moonstone or a sandakadapahana, six stone pillars,  entrance steps, stairway and the Korawakgal or stone balustrades.  Inside the building boundaries are stone seats, a stone sink and a replica of the Lord Buddha’s feet, the only remaining monuments within the monastery boundaries. 

Scattered over the grounds are more ruins of buildings and stupas with stone tablets for offerings. The drip ledged caves of the monastery had been separated into rooms with brick walls and each cave has an inscription detailing the donation done by local nobles. The three reservoirs found nearby had been the water source for the temple and for irrigation yet they too lay ruined today. 

However the temple was given a fresh breath of life when it was converted to a meditating monastery nearly four decades back by a leading meditating master and was the meditation retreat of late Ven. Gangodawila Soma Thera during the early years of his life.  However the monastery was damaged by a hurricane nearly two decades ago and is yet to be revived to life while the new temple built nearly one mile away was built in his memory and serves the village around.

After visiting Veheragala we rushed towards Maduru oya reservoir on the new tar mac which was laid through the Maduru oya park. The sun setting on the greenish back drop of the savanna was one sight I will never ever forget. After about riding 19Km from Maha oya we reached the dam of Maduru oya to enjoy the magnificent colour patterns at the backdrop of the reservoir which were set up by the setting sun to end an eventful day. On the way back to Maha oya we were charged by a wild jumbo which scared our bowels out.

Veheragala

note the drip ledge

another cave

inside it

steps on the near by rocky hill

view from the top

kema	inscription

wow

Dusk at maduru oya

towards narakamulla

dusk at its best

coloruful

beauty of evening sky

Day 2 I decided to get back towards Padiyathalawa and on the way try and visit all the known ancient temple between Maha oya and Padiyathalawa though the rain decided to add on to my troubles.

First place of interest was Harasgala hermitage where I had to take a left hand turn from the A5 main road and travel few hundred meters to reach it. There is a huge drip ledge caved image house which had been recently modified and also there are two more drip ledge caves in the vicinity which I couldn’t visit due to the bad weather conditions. Also it is said that the view from the top of the cave is panoramic but yet again the rain didn’t allow me to venture on.

image house at harasgala

cave at harasgala hermitage

inside the cave image house

newly built

cave at harasgala hermitage

plaster

katarama

the bell

From Harasgala in pouring rain I headed towards Serankada. Right on the side of the road there is a Makara thorana at the entrance of the temple. After meeting the head priest I fell in to a chat for about 1 hour until the rain seized off. This temple was done by king Dutugemunu and now only few scattered ruins of a moon stones and few guard stones can be seen around. There is a mini museum which has a statue, a guard stone, Yanthra stone, Chatra stone and few other ruins as exhibits. After spending more than 2 hours I decided to leave the place and head back towards Padiyathalawa.

Pagoda at serankada

part of the makara thorana

moon stone at serankada

chatra gala at serankada

broken statue at serankada rmv

history buried at serankada

guard stone

few pillars

Just before Padiyathalawa I took a turn to the right and continued for 4km’s until I reached Navinna temple. Here also the temple had been modified and only few ruins could be found around. I came across a guard stone, korawak stone, moos stone, few altars and few pillars.

pagoda at navinna rmv

altar at Navinna rmv

pa dovanaya

steps at navinna rmv

My last stop was a Padiyathalawa and not even 1 Km away from Padiyathalawa bus stand there is a historically important place called Padiyadora. Just before reaching the Dethis maha bodhiya one will come across Padiyadora ancient temple where a ruined pagoda, few pillars and a fallen statue can be found. The Dethis maha bodhiya is a very famous and a significant landmark in the whole area. It is said that the bo maluwa was decorated with gems along ago and hence the name Padiyadora was given. There is a small archeology hut where you can get some information from those guys. Please be mindful to wear suitable attire at this important religious place. After worshiping the bo tree I headed back towards Padiyathalawa and took a bus via Bibila to Monaragala to end my quest.

dethis maha bodhiya at padiyadora

fallen statue at padiyadora

ruins at padiyadora bo tree

remnants of a building

the pagoda

Please note most of these places were done by King Saddathissa and if you need more information I can email you few images taken from Ellawala Medananda thero’s book.

Thanks for reading.