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Coasting along of the Northern Tip – Jaffna Peninsula Chapter 2…

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Year and Month May, 2015
Number of Days 3 Separate Days
Crew I, Me and Myself
Accommodation Morgan’s Inn, Nallur
Transport By Bus, tuk-tuk, bicycle and on foot
Activities Photography, Archaeology, History, etc…
Weather Excellent. (Too hot)
Route Day 1

Nallur->Keerimale->Dambakola Patuna->Kadurugoda->Nilawara->Thondamanaru->Point Pedro->Vallipuram->Manalkadu->Nallur.

Day 2

Nallur->Point Pedro->Nallur.

Day 3

Nallur->KKS->Kondavil->Nallur.

Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Please read the notes carefully under each topic for further information.
  • Knowing Tamil is beneficial but you can get by with a few mandatory words.
  • People in Jaffna can be very shy so be careful when taking pictures and talking to them.
  • You should ideally have your vehicle or hire a tuk-tuk. Otherwise getting around is going to be tricky if you use public transport.
  • Entering certain places need special permission from the security personnel so be careful about them.
  • You must have plenty of drinking water. Bottled water is recommended as the water in Jaffna has that slightly brackish taste which I don’t like myself.
  • Don’t dump things here and there. Help protect the environment.
  • Special Thanks to Hasi for his report and all the other reports published by my Lakdasun friends.
  • Check the Jaffna Chapter 1 here.
  • Special Thanks to the Heroic Soldiers of Sri Lanka Armed Forces who fought for the freedom of this country, freeing it from the clutches of the terrorism making our future safe while sacrificing their own. You’ll forever be remembered.
Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hi everyone here I am once again with another fairy tale. Hope you enjoyed the last one when we looked around the heart of colorful Jaffna wandering along the bicycles infested streets. This time I’m taking you towards more rural areas with many more things to see. My friends and I have visited most of these places before and I guess you must have read some of their narrations. However I’m gonna bring them all back and hope you will find something better. Now you must be wondering where we are going. We’ll cover the northern part of Sri Lanka from Mathagal (Dambakola Patuna) to Manalkadu. There are many interesting places to visit and hope you will like what you see. It took me one full day and two half days to cover all of these but I’m hoping you would be able to visit them in less time after reading this.

I used all sorts of transport options from a tuk-tuk, a bicycle, public transport (bus and train) and a motorbike ride from a friend of mine. If you have your own vehicle, it’d so much easier to get around but how long it takes is purely up to you. A little bit of Tamil will certainly help but you can get by so long as you can act well and show them what you want with your face and arms. Ok, if you are ready, let’s see where we are going, shall we? I’m gonna put them in the order I visited but you could plan the best course of route after reading through. By the way, at the end, remind me to tell you what I have missed seeing as well so that you could add them also to your list.

Tour Highlights: 

  1. Sri Durga Devi Kovil, Thelippale.
  2. KKS Cement Factory & the Controversial Presidential Palace (from a distance along Maviddhapura-Keerimale Road)
  3. Sirappar Madam aka Ambalama.
  4. Keerimale Pond & Naguleshwaram Kovil.
  5. Dambakola Patuna, Mathagal.
  6. Kadurugoda Temple.
  7. Chunnakam Station & Northern Power Company of CEB.
  8. Nilawara Bottomless Well, Puttur.
  9. Selva Sennathi Kovil & Thondamanaru River.
  10. Northern Border of Sri Lanka, Point Pedro.
  11. Vallipuram Kovil (Vallipura Sakkara Alwar Thiruthalam), Vallipuram.
  12. Dutch Church & Cyprus Trees with Sand Dunes, Manalkadu.
  13. Unidentified Pond, Nelliady.
  14. Therimuri Madam, Point Pedro.
  15. Point Pedro Jetty.
  16. Point Pedro Light House
  17. Maviddapuram Kovil.
  18. KKS Light House.
  19. Thal Sevana Resort, KKS.
  20. KKS Station.
  21. Kondavil Station.
  22. Palmyra Toddy Tapping, Kondavil.

Well, what do you think? Of course, there is so much to see and I got lucky with the last one as I was taking a walk along the railway line from Kondavil. This is the exact order but you could adjust it according to your plans. Before we hit the road, just remember to be careful how you travel and when. Also, think twice when you photograph places, especially Kovils where they are very secretive and want to keep the inner sanctums away from others, people, etc. Further, most of the kovils require the males to remove their shirts when entering inside so make a note of that.

“I visited the places in the following order.

No. 1-13: One day tour hiring a tuk-tuk.

No. 14-16: Using bus and a bicycle for more than half a day.

No. 17-20: With a friend of mine in his motorbike and it took about 3hrs.

No. 21-22: Traveling by train. It took about an hour.”

Day 1

Ok, here we go.

Sri Durga Devi Kovil

We set off at 5.45am from Nallur and took the KKS Road passing Kondavil and Inuvil. Our first stop was the gigantic Hanuman statue in Inuvil and the golden temple. I then took a walk through the Inuvil fair while Sashi, the tuk-tuk driver, went to fill up the petrol. The vendors were busily selling mangoes (“Maampalam” in Tamil) especially the famous Jaffna Karuthakolomban, bananas (“Vaaleippalam” in Tamil) and various vegetables including Vengayam (onions).

Speaking of onions, lemme tell you something really funny I experienced while ordering a meal in one of those restaurants. I went and ordered a “Vengayam Utthapam”, a pizza like roti with onion toppings. They also have tomato topping. When the waiter heard my order, he got very animated and said that there was no such meal as Vengayam Utthapam. However, he pointed at the menu and offered me an Onion Utthapam. When I tried to explain that was exactly I wanted in my broken Tamil, he said rather to my amazement that Onion was a Tamil word, thus the name Onion Utthapam not Vengayam. I felt really foolish of me trying to learn the real Tamil words when even they don’t use them. Like many languages such as Hindi, Tamil and Sinhala they use a lot of English words in between making most of the original words look alien even to the native speakers.

Ok, now that I have taken it off my chest, let’s get on with the journey. After a few snaps, much to the surprise of the vendors and customers (as much as I was surprised to see them at work, they too were equally if not more surprised to find this stranger in shorts and a hat with a camera among them), we went further up towards Chunnakam. Before getting there, Sashi directed me to one of the mostly visited and famous Kovil in Jaffna, Durga Kovil. As I mentioned in my previous article (Jaffna Chapter 1), there are thousands of kovils scattered all around and I was surprised to see that many kovils in such a small area. However, there are a dozen or so popular ones that many people visit and this was one of them. Let’s see the pictures but you will find only the outside of the kovil as they are not keen on revealing the identities of the gods to the media, at least not for casual photographers like me.

Hanuman Statue near Inuvil

Hanuman Statue near Inuvil

Close up

Close up

There Karuthakolomban Vendors

There Karuthakolomban Vendors

Valaippalam

Valaippalam

Maampalam

Maampalam

Now you know the name

Now you know the name

The pond in front

The pond in front

Here it is

Here it is

Interior

Interior

No more pictures beyond here

No more pictures beyond here

KKS Cement Factory & the Controversial Presidential Palace

Well, you must be wondering how on earth I managed to get to these places. I didn’t, just merely took a few pictures from the road thanks to the zoom lens.

We continued further up the KKS Road passing Chunnakam, Thelippale and Mallakam before reaching Maviddapuram Junction. From here if you go straight it’s KKS Junction and if you turn left, it’s the Keerimale Road. To get to KKS, you need permission from the security forces. We’ll come to it later, now let’s turn left.

It’s about 3km from Maviddapuram to Keerimale. On the way, you can see the cement factory to the right rising from the bushes towards the blue sky. I took a few pictures from the road wishing I could go in and see the place. Here are some of the pictures.

In the distance

In the distance

Close up

Close up

Crumbling down

Crumbling down

Another part

Another part

Afterwards, we went further towards Keerimale and suddenly stopped at the sight of the parliament like building to the right. It was almost at the edge of the northern part of the country. There is a huge ravine separating the road to Keerimale from the Moolai-KKS Road on which this palace is located making it impossible to get there other than from the road. I took a few pictures from the edge of the road and here they are.

Beetroot, you’d be surprised to see the things they grow in Jaffna

Beetroot, you’d be surprised to see the things they grow in Jaffna

Empty land but what’s in the far

Empty land but what’s in the far

One of the hot topics in the country

One of the hot topics in the country

The best I could capture

The best I could capture

Away they go

Away they go

Sirappar Madam aka Ambalama

We reached the point where the turn to the Keerimale Pond is. If you want to use the public transport, take the No. 788 Keerimale-Jaffna Bus. It goes right up to Keerimale and there are a number of them. If you read my previous report of the Jaffna Experience in 2013, you must have seen an abandoned structure near the Keerimale Pond. Nobody took any notice of the derelict structure those days but now it’s completely reformed. This is one of the few Madam or Ambalama in Sinhala (resting places) in the Jaffna Peninsula. I got lucky to visit another at Point Pedro but we’ll come to it later.

This is called the Sirappar Madam and must have been built for the benefit of those who came to Naguleswaram Kovil and Keerimale Pond. Archeology department has cleared the place and put up a sign as well. There are signs of separate rooms and a big hall in the center. The walls are still in good shape and built using those typical coral mixed stones. Unfortunately there was no other information or anyone to ask about so check out the pictures.

The shops on either side

The shops on either side

Main entrance

Main entrance

Archaeology board

Archaeology board

Interior

Interior

This used to be full of weeds and bushes

This used to be full of weeds and bushes

One of the many rooms

One of the many rooms

Must've been a pretty big in its prime

Must’ve been a pretty big in its prime

Corridors

Corridors

From the back, Naguleswaram Kovil is right next to this

From the back, Naguleswaram Kovil is right next to this

Time to go

Time to go

Keerimale Pond & Naguleshwaram Kovil.

We then visited the Naguleswaram Kovil next to the Ambalama. It was under renovation so I managed only a couple of pictures from outside. I then walked towards the Keerimale Pond. The time was just gone 7am and the place was completely isolated. There was not a soul in sight and I enjoyed the peacefulness of the place. The morning sea was calm and kept lapping at the shore gently. The Keerimale Pond had about 3ft of water which remained very still. Bear in mind that you can use the pond from 6am to 6pm.

It was a faded blue in color with a tinge of green mixed together. Usually this is full of people bathing in the pond but not today. I could have had a nice and lonely dip coz I had it all for myself but didn’t fancy the idea. There is a sluice gate which brings the water in and out from the sea. There is a drain dug from the gate to the sea about 50-75ft long. Last time I came here, one of my friends had a bath and claimed it was just slightly salty the taste of water. Well it’s one of those miracles by the Mother Nature. If you remember my visit to Baththalangunduwa, they too are blessed with drinking water in that tiny fishing islet which is another of those Mother Nature’s miracles. We’ve a long way to go so see the pictures and get ready.

Entrance to the Kovil

Entrance to the Kovil

Under renovation

Under renovation

Typical signage found all around Jaffna peninsula

Typical signage found all around Jaffna peninsula

Another common tree found in Jaffna

Another common tree found in Jaffna

Long hall at the Kovil

Long hall at the Kovil

Info

Info

There it is

There it is

Not a soul in sight

Not a soul in sight

Placid and isolated

Placid and isolated

Steps around

Steps around

The sluice gate I told you about

The sluice gate I told you about

Not many would've been able to take a pic like this without anyone jumping in and out

Not many would’ve been able to take a pic like this without anyone jumping in and out

The gate from the seaside

The gate from the seaside

Here the canal that leads to the sea

Here the canal that leads to the sea

Morning sea

Morning sea

Hi folks!

Hi folks!

Found on the way to Dambakola Patuna... They seem to cater for the people from outside Jaffna thus the board in Sinhala

Found on the way to Dambakola Patuna… They seem to cater for the people from outside Jaffna thus the board in Sinhala

The fishing vessels nearby

The fishing vessels nearby

Some of them just coming in

Some of them just coming in

Was sitting on his own in the middle of water

Was sitting on his own in the middle of water

Dambakola Patuna

We then drove towards Mathagal where one of the most important incidents in the history of this country occurred many years ago. Dambakola Patuna is where Rev. Sangamiththa Therani brought the sacred branch of the Sri Maha Bodhi, probably the most worshipped tree in the whole world. The road ran parallel to the coast and except a couple of small fishing villages it was largely isolated. You can spot many Brahminy Kites circling around hunting for fish.

Finally we arrived at the Dambakola Patuna passing through the Mathagal town which comprised two tiny shops. There is a huge building now at the car park with a sign saying “Dambakolapatuna Rest”. This is a newly formed rest and run by the navy. It’s a great thing as there is hardly any place for the pilgrims to stay. I’ve got the contact details and accommodation options for your information.

“Dambakolapatuna Rest by the Navy

Telephone No. 021-3202731

7500/- for AC Room (9 People)

3500/- without AC (9 People)”

If you fancy taking the public transport, you have to take the No. 787 Mathagala-Jaffna Bus. I then took a walk through this tranquil temple with its pristine white stupa and serene Buddha Statue and the shady Bo tree. We must be grateful for the Navy, Army and Air Force for looking after places like these so that we could go and worship in peace. The place was impeccably maintained day and night by the navy boys cleaning it and having a tough time with the stray dogs. Let’s go and see the pictures.

Very historical place

Very historical place

Let's go in

Let’s go in

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

Very well maintained

Very well maintained

Beautiful stupa

Beautiful stupa

Just look at that... is this Gatakara or Danyakara?

Just look at that… is this Gatakara or Danyakara?

Love this

Love this

Khomba flowers

Khomba flowers

The image house

The image house

The legend

The legend

You are here

You are here

How it happened

How it happened

Closer look

Closer look

How can you ever forget those heroes?

How can you ever forget those heroes?

A pity having to place such notice boards

A pity having to place such notice boards

None in sight

None in sight

Well, not really

Well, not really

Don't worry, they are not fingers but sea plants

Don’t worry, they are not fingers but sea plants

The replica of the vessel

The replica of the vessel

Beautifully created

Beautifully created

There's Rev. Sangamiththa's statue

There’s Rev. Sangamiththa’s statue

Must be a water spring

Must be a water spring

The road and the anicut

The road and the anicut

Part of the vessel showing its sails

Part of the vessel showing its sails

From the road

From the road

Other side of the water way

Other side of the water way

Found him in the distance

Found him in the distance

Resting place near the navy-run hotel

Resting place near the navy-run hotel

Car park and the Dambakola Patuna Rest

Car park and the Dambakola Patuna Rest

Here it is

Here it is

Going back towards Kadurugoda

Going back towards Kadurugoda

Natural harbor for the fishing boats

Natural harbor for the fishing boats

All alone

All alone

Kadurugoda Temple

We retraced our steps and returned to Maviddapuram from where took the Chunnakam road. We hadn’t had any breakfast or water so stopped at a shop in Thelippale. After a Poori and Wadei meal followed by a typical local chewing gum like thing (made of beetle leaves, aricanut, tobacco and Ca(OH)2 or CaCO3. It makes your saliva brick red and is commonly used by farmers, laborers, etc. Bear in mind the use of tobacco can cause cancer), we arrived at Chunnakam.

You have to turn left to Kadurugoda if coming from Jaffna and the right will take you to Puttur where Nilawara bottomless well is located. As we came from KKS side, we took a right turn and it’s about 4-5km from Chunnakam to Kadurugoda. The road is well sign posted so you can easily find it. The place is in better shape compared to the last time and army is providing the security because the temple has already lost a lot of land thanks to the greedy and extreme neighborhood.

This is mainly a crematory ground of the Arhath Monks in the past. There are 60 crematory stupas (remember the Alahana Pirivena in Polonnaruwa). They have located 56 tombs out of those 60. You will see different sized stupas (definitely depending on their spiritual levels) numbered by the archeological department. Ok, let’s now see the pictures.

Done a lot of renovation to the site

Done a lot of renovation to the site

The path

The path

Boundary of the neighbors

Boundary of the neighbors

Beauties

Beauties

The legend. Did you know the Sinhala name of Chunnakam was Hunugama?

The legend. Did you know the Sinhala name of Chunnakam was Hunugama?

Image house

Image house

The area is fenced off

The area is fenced off

Here they are

Here they are

Closer look

Closer look

Newly numbered

Newly numbered

One of the bigger stupa

One of the bigger stupa

Several others

Several others

Some more

Some more

The 56th one

The 56th one

Bo tree

Bo tree

Another tiny image house

Another tiny image house

Found them on the way back

Found them on the way back

Looks great

Looks great

Chunnakam Station & Northern Power Company of CEB.

We turned around and reached Chunnakam and carried straight on towards Puttur. About half a km from the Chunnakam junction we met the Chunnakam station. I just got Sashi to stop and went in search of the newly built station. After a walk around, as I was getting into the tuk-tuk I happened to see this huge cylindrical tanks about 150m from the road. It turned out to be the CEB complex. I took another few pictures so you can see them now.

Newly built Chunnakam station

Newly built Chunnakam station

Isolated

Isolated

The power plant is there

The power plant is there

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

See those boys sitting and taking a break near the signal pillar

See those boys sitting and taking a break near the signal pillar

Famous Jaffna onion fields

Famous Jaffna onion fields

Tobacco leaves

Tobacco leaves

And Jaffna Chilies too

And Jaffna Chilies too

Close up

Close up

Ploughed and ready to sow

Ploughed and ready to sow

One of the agricultural wells

One of the agricultural wells

They are getting things ready

They are getting things ready

Nilawara Bottomless Well

Let’s go see what this mysterious well is. We continued along the Puttur road and after a couple of kms reached the well. It’s really a surprising place and nobody has found how deep it really is. Apparently a group of American geological experts had come but not been able to find the exact depth. I guess we have to put more emphasis on the mystery of this and must try to solve it one way or the other.

If you scroll up and check the tour highlights for a second, you will see the unidentified pond at number 13. I heard that these ponds (Keerimale, Nilawara, Nelliady, etc.) are all interconnected together underneath. Well who knows what other mysteries are there? Before going into the pictures, remind me to tell you something about Thondamanaru when we go to Point Pedro coz I got lucky to have met a retired surveyor from Point Pedro who has plenty of experience in the area. Right now, enjoy the pictures of the mysterious well.

The mysterious well

The mysterious well

Let's go in

Let’s go in

Here we are

Here we are

Strange color

Strange

colour

The steps to the water level

The steps to the water level

There

There

This taken from the water level

This taken from the water level

See the pipeline that takes water from the well?

See the pipeline that takes water from the well?

Common sight along the roads

Common sight along the roads

Brahminy Kite

Brahminy Kite

Devouring its catch

Devouring its catch

The lagoon before Point Pedro off Achchuvely

The lagoon before Point Pedro off Achchuvely

Isolated road

Isolated road

Continuous hunt for something to eat

Continuous hunt for something to eat

Very still like a statue

Very still like a statue

Fish traps

Fish traps

Selva Sennathi Kovil & Thondamanaru River

Our next stop was the starting point of the Kataragama Pada Yathra, Selva Sennathi Kovil. We continued until Achchuveli and then turned to the north to reach Thondamanaru. The Thondamanaru River was to our right and it flows into the sea off Selva Sennathi Kovil. The ride was very pleasant despite the unforgiving sun. Finally we arrived at the kovil and took the pictures. There were a handful of people in the kovil and another group of people was enjoying a dip in the Thondamanaru River.

Northern Provincial Hydrological Research Center is also located nearby with a sluice gate barricading the flow of water into and from the sea. Well, I asked you to remind me of the story about Thondamanaru River, didn’t I? According to the surveyor, the water of Thondamanaru river had been in excellent quality but after the LTTE terrorists started wreaking havoc in the area, all the irrigation systems were abandoned thus paving way for the sea water to get mixed with the pure water of Thondamanaru river and made it nearly useless.

He claims that it could easily solve the water issue in the peninsula if the authorities brought back the irrigation systems and divert the excess water of Iranamadu to the Thondamanaru river. I think it is more important for the people than the highways. Hopefully someone will recognize the importance of this and make it happen in the near future. This also reminds me what the Dutch (guess it’s them, or is it the English?) did in Delft Island. Those heartless idiots dug tunnels from the sea linking them to the internal fresh water ponds and making them unusual. This resulted natives fleeing the island so that they could breed the horses and do their sea operations without a problem. Right, here we check out the pictures.

There it is

There it is

Closer look

Closer look

Beautiful

Beautiful

Where the famous and traditional Pada Yathra begins

Where the famous and traditional Pada Yathra begins

The interior

The interior

Closer look

Closer look

A small pond where people take a bath before and after bathing in Thondamanaru River

A small pond where people take a bath before and after bathing in Thondamanaru River

Located nearby

Located nearby

There's the anicut

There’s the anicut

Long and beautiful

Long and beautiful

Closer look

Closer look

Not accessible

Not accessible

Time to go

Time to go

Northern Border of Sri Lanka

Our next stop was going to be one of the places I had dreamed day and night. The northern most part of my country where there is a lion’s flag erected. To be able to see that lion’s flag with my own eyes was another milestone in my traveling career. We passed Thondamanaru and drove through Velvatithurai. Sashi wanted to take me to see the house where one of the sadistic and evil terrorists was born but I vehemently opposed the idea. That was the last thing I wanted to go see. If he thought I spent all that time and money traveling all the way to visit that house, he had another think coming.

We drove along the busy coastal road with plenty of fishing boats were anchored. The owners were mending the nets, preparing fish for drying, etc. The sun was climbing up steadily becoming fierce every second. Finally, I saw the distant view of the magical flag and my heart leaped with joy. I urged Sashi to drive quickly “Thakkana Ponga” and he obliged. As soon as the tuk-tuk came to an abrupt halt, I jumped out and ran out to the flag feeling ten feet tall. There I spent around 20mins taking pictures and admiring the view. Unfortunately someone or a group of people had barricaded the land to the right of the flag post making the view not so grand. I wonder who was responsible for that. Anyway, here are the pictures. Hurry up coz we gotta travel a long way.

Now along the northern most road

Now along the northern most road

Busy at work

Busy at work

Around Velvetiturai

Around Velvetiturai

Tough way of living

Tough way of living

Dried fish area

Dried fish area

Lion's flag is nearby

Lion’s flag is nearby

Throw the net

Throw the net

There it is in mid-air

There it is in mid-air

A dream come true

A dream come true

Cages, must be used to dry fish

Cages, must be used to dry fish

Oh yeah, I was there

Oh yeah, I was there

Beautiful place but didn't like that fence like thing

Beautiful place but didn’t like that fence like thing

Sensational

Sensational

I had to have pic of mine (see the distance given from Dondra to Point Pedro?)

I had to have pic of mine (see the distance given from Dondra to Point Pedro?)

A huge chunk of fish

A huge chunk of fish

Brahminy Kite on the prowl

Brahminy Kite on the prowl

Attending to their trade

Attending to their trade

Getting closer to PP jetty

Getting closer to PP jetty

The rest of PP will come later

The rest of PP will come later

Vallipuram Kovil (Vallipura Sakkara Alwar Thiruthalam)

Here we go. We drove inland from the Point Pedro Harbour and passing through the town centre went further down on Point Pedro-Jaffna road. At the 32nd km post (near Puloly) took the left turn into the Vallipuram road. Remember if you come from Jaffna, it’s the right turn. If you do the light house which is further along the coastal road passing the harbour, the other Point Pedro-Vallipuram road (B370) is linked to the main one (B371) at Katkovalam. Study the map and you will know what it is. Remember, if you go to Manalkadu, it’s the same road you have to take, but we’ll come to it later.

We drove along the marshy land bordered road until we arrived at the famous Vallipuram Kovil. It’s said that a gold inscription was found in the premises but no further details could be found. I hope someone can shed some light on the matter as to what happened to it and what was written in if the story is true. There was a Bo tree in the Kovil premises which was full of hung tiny skeleton wooden baskets (very much like children cots). I wonder if the parents without kids hang them hoping to have kids. This could be a similar ritual of the Hindus like what the Buddhists do by hanging flags on Bo trees. How about some pictures?

Entrance to Vallupuram Kovil

Entrance to Vallupuram Kovil

Walking

Walking

Ripe Nuga fruits, favored by birds and squirrels

Ripe Nuga fruits, favored by birds and squirrels

This is in fact the back entrance

This is in fact the back entrance

Those things I told you about

Those things I told you about

Closer view

Closer view

Stone statues and creations found on site

Stone statues and creations found on site

Stone statues and creations found on site

Stone statues and creations found on site

Side entrance

Side entrance

Here's the front

Here’s the front

Looks grand, doesn't it?

Looks grand, doesn’t it?

Portrait

Portrait

Found next to the entrance

Found next to the entrance

Let's move on

Let’s move on

Manalkadu Sand Dunes & the Ruins of the Dutch Church

 

Our next stop was Manalkadu. You have to continue along the Vallipuram road (B371) and turn left at the 9th km post. There is a big signage as well so you can’t go wrong. From there onwards, you will notice the change of landscape with white sand dunes and Cyprus trees mixed together. Similar landscapes could be found in the areas of Kilali and Nagarkovil where our soldiers defended the Jaffna peninsula. There is very little cover and they lost many brave soldiers in many fierce battles.

After a couple of kms, we saw the Dutch church in its last legs but without stopping went till we came to the beach. Tsunami had destroyed this area as well and we saw new housing schemes for those who affected had been built. After a short stay, we turned around and headed to the remains of the church. Its outer walls are still in place you will find an archeological notice also nearby. The burial ground of the villagers is located also closer and surprisingly it’s on the sand itself. We then returned on the same road and on the way among the cyprus trees was a palmyra roof hut. We saw many people coming out of it and found it to be a toddy selling point. Unfortunately they had just finished the business so we came back to the Point Pedro road and headed towards Jaffna. Well you may check out the pictures now.

Sign board

Sign board

Found at the turn off

Found at the turn off

Buds

Buds

Oh ho

Oh ho

There the Manalkadu beach

There the Manalkadu beach

No one in sight

No one in sight

Old church and a statue to commemorate the Tsunami victims

Old church and a statue to commemorate the Tsunami victims

Here's the Dutch Church

Here’s the Dutch Church

See the archaeological board?

See the archaeological board?

Only the walls remain

Only the walls remain

Inner section

Inner section

Walls from inside

Walls from inside

Long walls

Long walls

Cyprus trees

Cyprus trees

A whole lot

A whole lot

Very unique place

Very unique place

What's that?

What’s that?

The toddy place

The toddy place

Time to go

Time to go

Unidentified Pond

Well, don’t get alarmed at the topic coz I simply couldn’t get the name of this place despite having a typical archeological notice nearby. This is located in Nelliady right next to the Nelliady Kovil which had been built rather recently compared to the pond. This is not as big as the Yamuna Pond but a lot deeper. The water level is about 20ft below the ground level and is about 10′ X 10′. There is a path that leads to the pond but can’t get to it.

The belief is that this pond is interconnected together with the Nilawara Bottomless Well, Keerimale Pond and Selva Sennathi Kovil underground. Whether it is true or not is something we don’t know and might never find. Let’s see the pictures coz we’re coming to the end of the day 1. I have to get back and plan for the other places. Until then check the pictures.

Here it is very clear


Here it is very clear

This is the pond and pity there is no info

This is the pond and pity there is no info

One end

One end

Pretty deep

Pretty deep

Side walls

Side walls

Full view

Full view

Waiting patiently

Waiting patiently

And flew away

And flew away

Day 2

Hello folks, are you ready for the day 2? Let’s go to Point Pedro and see what else is there for us to see. I went to the Nallur Kovil where I took a 751 Point Pedro bus but it turned out to be a big mistake coz it goes through Thondamanaru, Uduppidy, Velvettithurai, Polikandy and Alvai rather than going straight to Point Pedro. For that you should take the 750 bus. After a round about trip I finally arrived in Point Pedro where one of my friends was waiting for me. Before we go anywhere, just take a look around the Point Pedro market.

Just opened the stall

Just opened the stall

Long lines of vegies

Long lines of vegies

I simply loved this place; see the different materials of camouflage

I simply loved this place; see the different materials of camouflage

Therimuri Madam

Our first stop was Therimuri Madam located a little bit away from the Point Pedro town along Thumpalai road. It’s kinda huge entrance into the Point Pedro. The madam is built on either side of the road with a roof connecting the two sides. The old roof had been gone but the authorities have been kind enough to place a new one protecting the walls. On one side of the structure there is a sign that must have been a door leading into inner chambers but now nothing else is there other than the two narrow corridors on either side about 15ft in length. Let’s look at the pictures and I’m going to my friend’s house for some breakfast and to borrow a bicycle for the rest of the journey.

The road goes through

The road goes through

Built long ago but when?

Built long ago but when?

Narrow corridor

Narrow corridor

Closer look

Closer look

From the other end

From the other end

Now they even park bicycles

Now they even park bicycles

The door I mentioned you about

The door I mentioned you about

Done in the recent past

Done in the recent past

Granite pillars

Granite pillars

Time to go

Time to go

One of those typical village wells

One of those typical village wells

This is my friend's house, very old

This is my friend’s house, very old

Point Pedro Fishing Harbour

After breakfast we rode along the roads seeing the day-to-day lives unfolding. The bicycle I rode was a very old one but still in good shape. No wonder coz its maker is Asia Bike and made in Japan. That is another example for the quality of Japanese products. We road towards Alvai passing the famous Hartley College. The fishing boats had come in to the shore from their fishing and the beach looked really busy. The dogs, crows and many other birds including Brahminy Kites were busy too wondering what to choose from many different kinds of fish.

We then started cycling towards the jetty but my friend showed me a Palmyra tree bending towards the sea along the coastal road to the light house. She said that this was considered the top most point and coincidentally this Palmyra tree is the marker. Apparently it’s been there all the time and going to that I too felt that there must be something in folklore. But let’s look at the jetty first. There is a sign erected giving directions to the nearby countries from Point Pedro. Well, I won’t bore with the details, just look at these pictures.

Here is my bicycle

Here is my bicycle

Original from Japan

Original from Japan

A house in ruins

A house in ruins

There Gaja Laxmi

There Gaja Laxmi

Very famous Hartley College, PP.

Very famous Hartley College, PP.

The church in front of it

The church in front of it

Front

Front

Back along the northern tip

Back along the northern tip

Coming into the natural harbor

Coming into the natural harbor

Bringing their catch

Bringing their catch

Anchored craft

Anchored craft

The crow boat

The crow boat

Familiar sight and no age barriers

Familiar sight and no age barriers

Separating the fish according to their kind

Separating the fish according to their kind

Saalaya

Saalaya

Being dried in the piercing sun

Being dried in the piercing sun

Fresh catch

Fresh catch

Hovering

Hovering

He’s found something to eat

He’s found something to eat

The Palmyra tree I told you about, can you see it leaning towards the sea?

The Palmyra tree I told you about, can you see it leaning towards the sea?

PP Jetty

PP Jetty

Closer look

Closer look

Anchored and waiting

Anchored and waiting

Few vessels at the jetty

Few vessels at the jetty

Getting ready to have some lunch

Getting ready to have some lunch

Other side

Other side

He was still cooking and the smell of dried fish curry made my mouth salivate to no end

He was still cooking and the smell of dried fish curry made my mouth salivate to no end

Many vivid flags

Many vivid flags

Boat along the sand

Boat along the sand

Here is the name board

Here is the name board

Property of SL Customs

Property of SL Customs

Must go see it

Must go see it

Can you see the info on the board in Tamil?

Can you see the info on the board in Tamil?

Inside

Inside

Here is something really interesting

Here is something really interesting

Map of the southern part of the world

Map of the southern part of the world

See the distances?

See the distances?

Point Pedro Light House

We rode further along the beach road passing many fishing vessels, fishermen and fish drying spots. Couple of times I went into the huts where they prepare the raw fish to be dried. We were very thirsty as well so stopped by a shop and had orange barely. I guess that was the tastiest orange barely I ever had. Then, we arrived at the Palmyra tree I mentioned above and took a few pictures.

Ok, let’s go and check if they would allow us to see the light house. It is inside the Point Pedro navy camp and most of the people I checked said that they wouldn’t allow for me to go see it but I was going to take my chance. There was a navy soldier at the guard house and all I had to tell him was that I was there to see the light house. He immediately summoned one of his colleagues and asked him to let us see the light house.

Even though it is technically inside the navy camp, the navy soldiers have wisely fenced off the light house (the size of about 15’X15′) making a separate entrance to the base. I asked the soldier who came to show us if they allow anyone to visit and he said yes they would if we asked. So remember, just go and ask then they will allow you in. Even my friend who has been born and bred in Point Pedro hadn’t been to the light house all her life thinking that was out of bounds. Well it was but not anymore. This light house is 88m in height (four times compared to the KKS one) but they wouldn’t allow you to climb up as the iron stairs are rusty. I’m sure it’d have easily held me but I didn’t wanna push my luck to the breaking point.

Hopefully, in the near future these light houses would be renovated and opened for the public. Let’s keep our fingers crossed and wait. Until then, you just have to be content with these pictures.

These are slightly bigger than sprats

These are slightly bigger than sprats

Famous Katta

Famous Katta

Closer

Closer

These were being cut into square shaped chunks

These were being cut into square shaped chunks

Here and coated with salt

Here and coated with salt

Some more people at work

Some more people at work

Ready to be mixed with salt

Ready to be mixed with salt

Safety first

Safety first

Many boats

Many boats

With the lion's flag

With the lion’s flag

More

More

Closer look

Closer look

Anguluwa, look at the stings at the mouth

Anguluwa, look at the stings at the mouth

They were being cut and cleaned

They were being cut and cleaned

Couple of rays

Couple of rays

Common sight

Common sight

That Palmyra tree

That Palmyra tree

That stinking comms tower has destroyed the beauty of the light house

That stinking comms tower has destroyed the beauty of the light house

Closer look

Closer look

Wow

Wow

Entrance, see the Tsunami level

Entrance, see the Tsunami level

Imposing

Imposing

Steps to the top

Steps to the top

Looking up to the lamp house

Looking up to the lamp house

Zoomed in

Zoomed in

Wish I could climb up

Wish I could climb up

Navy is maintaining it well

Navy is maintaining it well

Oh my goat

Oh my goat

From the distance

From the distance

Couldn't get any closer

Couldn’t get any closer

One of my favorites

One of my favorites

Me looking up and squinting coz of the sun

Me looking up and squinting coz of the sun

Ready to catch some

Ready to catch some

Threw the net

Threw the net

And got this

And got this

This is where most of the people come in the evening to enjoy

This is where most of the people come in the evening to enjoy

Couldn't get enough of her

Couldn’t get enough of her

Through the openings and see the rungs?

Through the openings and see the rungs?

Navy sign

Navy sign

What's there in the middle?

What’s there in the middle?

Oh, like Mickey Mouse

Oh, like Mickey Mouse

Time to go eat

Time to go eat

Well, afterwards I went and had a delicious and authentic Point Pedro lunch with Chicken, Murunga, Dhal, Rice and Pittu. You saw the pictures in the Chapter 1. Now I’ve got to go catch the bus back to Jaffna and I’m going to make sure it’s the 750 bus not the 751. See you on the day 3.

Day 3

Hi everyone, are you ready to complete the tour along the northern tip of Sri Lanka? Well, if you are, we’ll make a start. It was 6.30am when I left Nallur with another friend of mine in his motorbike. Our destination, KKS. We rode merrily and arrived at the Maviddapuram junction.

Maviddapuram Kovil

We stopped to take pictures of the Maviddapuram Kovil which is in a derelict state. This is still considered one of the most popular Kovil among those thousands. We will have to face some barriers ahead. I’ll tell you how we overcame them after the pictures.

Inuvil Station

Inuvil Station

I'm sure you remember this

I’m sure you remember this

Maviddapuram Kovil

Maviddapuram Kovil

Not in use

Not in use

KKS Light House

The road from Maviddapuram junction to KKS is run through the high security zone. However the army lets the Lorries which go to the port to bring the cement and other goods carried by the ships. We went and told the military police about our intentions of seeing the light house. One officer looked as if he wanted to walk up a ceiling. I managed to convince that I was not an escapee from the mental hospital. He then said that we were not to take any pictures of the place. So finally I told him that we’d just go and see it as we’d come that far.

We were given a pass which said “Thal Sevana”. So we continued and arrived at the KKS junction and saw this beautiful white structure rising to the sky. This was renovated by the army couple of years ago and in good condition however you are not allowed to climb up. There was nobody around so I took a couple of pictures just because I couldn’t resist it. Compared to other light houses, this is a tiny one with a height of 22m. We then went towards the Thal Sevana coz we were hungry and decided to take a look at the resort anyway. Here are some pictures of the light house and mind you there are pictures taken from the Thal Sevana Resort as well. There is a walking path from the resort and you can see the light house clearly.

The story, hope you can read it

The story, hope you can read it

Oh yeah!

Oh yeah!

Beautiful

Beautiful

Must be one of the very few in good condition

Must be one of the very few in good condition

Copper plated lamp house

Copper plated lamp house

This is the walking path from Thal Sevana

This is the walking path from Thal Sevana

Closer

Closer

Excellent

Excellent

Let's go see the hotel now

Let’s go see the hotel now

Thal Sevana Resort

We arrived at a typical brick red train wagon with the Thal Sevana board. On the wagon there was a name plate “Yaal Devi”. There was a station master in his usual attire but he of course was working in the restaurant. This is a wagon length restaurant separate from the resort but owned by them. A good place to go and have a meal. We were the only customers and after ordering we went out for a walk. You wanna see the pictures for sure here they are.

Here we are

Here we are

Going in

Going in

Train carriage

Train carriage

Me at Yal Devi

Me at Yal Devi

Interior

Interior

Towards the kitchen and see the chef?

Towards the kitchen and see the chef?

Along the red carpet

Along the red carpet

Out and about

Out and about

Nice setting

Nice setting

Playground for the kids

Playground for the kids

Screaming at the top of its voice

Screaming at the top of its voice

Relaxing points

Relaxing points

Me with the SM's cap

Me with the SM’s cap

Here our hosts

Here our hosts

Now to the main area

Now to the main area

Very big

Very big

Swimming pool, note they don't use sea water

Swimming pool, note they don’t use sea water

Wouldn't mind staying a few days here

Wouldn’t mind staying a few days here

Garden

Garden

Well, they'll be remembered

Well, they’ll be remembered

Around

Around

These are cottages

These are cottages

Lamps

Lamps

Ship at KKS harbor

Ship at KKS harbor

This says quite a lot

This says quite a lot

Here's the front

Here’s the front

Hospitality

Hospitality

Old vehicles

Old vehicles

Morris Oxford

Morris Oxford

Here it is

Here it is

Austin Cambridge

Austin Cambridge

Here it is

Here it is

Finally Austin A30

Finally Austin A30

What do you think?

What do you think?

Model of Aandiya Well, used to be very popular in Jaffna but not anymore

Model of Aandiya Well, used to be very popular in Jaffna but not anymore

Ok, don’t be surprised if you didn’t find any pictures of our meal because you saw them in the previous report. We bid farewell to the chefs and walked towards the resort. You can get more information on it on their website. This really is an ideal place for your next holiday. There were a couple of groups already enjoying their hard earned holidays. Well you can check the pictures now and I changed my plans for the return journey.

KKS Station

The time was around 9.30am and there was a red S11 idling at the northern most railway station, KKS ready to leave for Colombo via Jaffna. I told my friend to go ahead without me and pick me from Kondavil station. The station looked brand new and I took a few pictures. Then we set off stopping at Maviddapuram, Thelippale, Mallakam, Chunnakam and Inuvil before coming to rest at Kondavil where I got down.

Creating history once again

Creating history once again

Indian lady without her veil

Indian lady without her veil

Not ready to leave yet

Not ready to leave yet

Isolated station

Isolated station

Interior

Interior

No one in

No one in

Here we go

Here we go

Mallakam

Mallakam

This is the Chunnakam Power Plant

This is the Chunnakam Power Plant

From the moving train

From the moving train

Stopped at Inuvil, just before my destination

Stopped at Inuvil, just before my destination

Kondavil Station

It took about 20mins to reach Kondavil and without much hullabaloo, here are some pictures just to show you around these unknown and not frequently visited places.

At Kondavil

At Kondavil

She left me

She left me

Still new

Still new

Moving on

Moving on

Palmyra Toddy Tapping

Well, what do you know about toddy? Raise your hand if you have ever tasted toddy? Well don’t look sheepish if you raised your hand. There are three different types of toddy in Sri Lanka. Coconut Toddy in the Southern Part, Kitul Palm Toddy in the Central (remember Nava Mama tapping the Kitul Tree in his land in one of my trips?) and Palmyra Toddy in the North. While I stacked the camera in the bag and called it a tour completed and walking out of the station, there was a movement to my left.

Looking to the left, I noticed a man climbing down a Palmyra tree with the things carried by a tapper. He then took the juice tapped to his bike parked nearby and poured it into the big container. I looked up to see plenty of clay pots hanging from the Palmyra trees around. He then returned and started his journey up along another. By then I was ready and took everything on my camera which will be presented to you now. This is the last of my attractions from the tour of Northern Tip. Enjoy its pictures before I come for my dramatic conclusion.

Look at that

Look at that

Closer look

Closer look

Ready to go

Ready to go

On the go

On the go

Not easy

Not easy

Come on, keep going

Come on, keep going

Finally

Finally

Collecting

Collecting

Not easy but for him it's a walk in the park

Not easy but for him it’s a walk in the park

Careful

Careful

Ok, time to go... be safe

Ok, time to go… be safe

Finally my friend's house near the station

Finally my friend’s house near the station

Well, what do you think? Was it helpful in anyway and is there anything I missed? Yeah, I did miss a couple of things both intentionally and without the means.

* Cave Complex at Thondamanaru.

* KKS Cement Factory.

The cave I purposely ignored coz I’m not a great fan of caves especially that kinda one. I’d have loved to visit the cement factory though but didn’t get lucky with a useful contact. Maybe some other time. I’m sure that there are many things to see and places to visit hidden away from the public. I tried to bring as many of them as possible to you and hope my efforts were worth the trouble. Here I end my Chapter 2 of this colorful part of our beautiful country.

I’ll see you in the next one and it’s gonna be very especial too. Until then, take care and keep traveling. This is Sri leaving for now.


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