Lost In the paradise of lagoons, islands and causeways

During the last few years, majority of my excursions were around the central hills where the cool climates and breathtaking scenery of the tea country made me irresistible. Having so much left to explore in the other regions of the country, especially in the northern half, I decided to break the shackles and witness the unmatched beauty of the lagoon paradise, Jaffna peninsula. It was the first day of the “extra long” first weekend of February and at 5.30 am two of us were in the car heading towards Puttalam for a 5 day tour to Jaffna, the longest so far!

While enjoying the beautiful sceneries and attractions on the way, our intention was to spend maximum possible time along causeways and lagoons to witness the beauty of the unique landscapes. Having a drive of 450km during the day, we had the breakfast stop at the beach park in Puttalam.

The lagoon of windmills

The giant of Noroccholai

After the break we continued the journey along A12 towards Anuradhapura and turned left at Nochciyagama with the intention of having a drive through Oyamaduwa and Tantirimale as I have not been to this area before, and get to A14 at Neriyakulam.

However, we skipped visiting Tantirimale temple as there are plenty to see beyond Vavuniya and a long way to make during the day.

Drying Bada Iringu on Nochchiyagama – Oyamaduwa road

A Corn field

Ready to harvest

Oyamaduwa road is so scenic

On the way

lovely

Greenary

Another Yoda lipa? This is close to Tanthirimale

Scenery

There were some bad stretches between Oyamaduwa and Neriyakulam where road has been washed away due to recent floods. But a car can cross through with careful driving.

Initially our plan was to use Neriyakulam – Vavuniya road but since it was in bad condition, we decided to take the road via Medawachchiya. Our stop for lunch was Kedella run by SL Army.

Kedella

Restaurant

After fairly a long drive passing Vavuniya, we stopped at Kokavil war hero monument to pay our respect. An army officer is there to explain the tragedy happened in Kokavil.

Entering Vavuniya

Omanthai, Border of former LTTE controlled area

Omantai Army barrier

Mankulam

Kokavil war hero monument

Heart breaking story – Click Image to Enlarge

Our next attraction of the day was Iranamadu Tank. After turning right at Iranamadu junction, driving few kms straight will end up at Iranamadu Tank. There is a car park and a jana awanhala run by SL Army, near the tank.

Iranamadu junction

Antique

Not a shrine

Water purification facility

The spill

Dam

The way of spilling water

Spill gates

History

Jana awanhala by SL Army

Then we headed towards Kilinochchi town to see the blasted water tank. Kilinochchi town is well developed and further improvements were going on. After a short stop at the war monument, we continued towards Elephant pass.

A9 in Kilinochchi town

Kilinochchi war hero monument

Blasted water tank

Inside the column

The tank

Inside the tank

Inside the tank

Souvenir gallery in the premises

The new comer

At the time we visited Corporal Gamini Kularathne Memorial, It was evening and an army parade was going on in honor of him. We too paid our respect to him, Visited his souvenir gallery and continued towards Jaffna.

At the memorial of Corp. Gamini Kularatne

The monument receiving the respect of the Army

The bull dozer destroyed by Corp. Gamini Kularatne

Jana awanhala at the monument

It was 7.30 pm when we reached Udayan Rest. Mr. Ravi, the owner warmly welcomed us and arranged our dinner. Room facilities were very basic but Mr. Ravi’s service was exceptional.

Our plan for the next day was to visit Nagadeepa and then Karainager. Although we could have visited both Nagadeepa and Delft on the same day, we planned them for two days as we wanted to spend more time close to the lagoons and causeways to enjoy the beauty. During the next three days, our plan was to spend all mornings and evenings along Kayts/Punkudutivu, Karainagar and Sangupiddy causeways of the lagoon paradise.

Since it was the beginning of an extra long week end, expecting a huge crowd in the jetty, we decided to set off early in the morning to avoid waste of time in queues. Leaving early means we have to look for breakfast on the way, which is not a very good idea. So, we had to satisfy with some Prima Stella noodle cups which can be instantly prepared with some hot water. At 5.45 am, we were heading towards Kurikadduwan (KKD) jetty along the Kytes causeway.

Dawn at the Kayts cause way

She is up

Morning show

More

The causeway

Morning paintings

Unbelievable

Seamless

Typical Thal weta

More creative this time

Natural park

Unique landscapes

Whoa…

The causeway from Jaffna to Kytes was under construction and it was not so easy to tackle.

We were able to reach the jetty around 7.15 with amidst several stops to enjoy the morning scenery. To our surprise, there wasn’t a queue and the boat “Mani Nagaddepa” was loading passengers. Soon we got in and it was a 15 min ride to Nagadeepa jetty. There were several boats in operation and hence there were no long queues. A boat departed every 15-20 minutes from KKD jetty to Nagadeepa.

KKD Jetty. Public transport drop/collect passengers directly at the jetty. Other vehicles should be parked in the main land and passengers should walk to the jetty along the short causeway.

The boat we travelled to Nagadeepa

Halted Vada Tharakai II, the 8.30 vessel to Delft operated by RDA for free

Entrance

Serene

Image house

Paintings

Beautiful

After visiting the temple we walked towards the Kovil along the main street of Nainativu. The jetty to take the return boat is located at the kovil.

Crossing over

Entrance to kovil

Kovil

Colorful

Beautiful

A ferry moving away

It was around 12.00 noon when we came back to KKD jetty and it was the time to head towards Fort Hammenheil restaurant, Karainager, for lunch via Jaffna. On the way we had plenty of time to enjoy the unmatched beauty along the Kayts/Punkuduthuvu causeway.

Grassland with bushes

Amazing landscapes created by sea weeds

The Icon

Again the grassland

Fence made up of Palmyra leaf stem

Paddy in kytes with the icon in the back drop

Amazing landscapes

Whistling ducks

Canopy missing in action

Brahmini kite in the wind

More landscapes

Beauty

Different

The Lagoon

Unlike the Kayts/Punkudutivu causeways, Karainager causeway was in very good condition and surrounding was more colourful.

Towards Ponnalai

Tobacco

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway

Hut in the lagoon. Similar to huts in the paddy fields of the South.

Lagoon more colourful

Closer look

Fort Hammenheil Resort and Restaurant are located inside the Navy Base “Elara” of Karainager. Restaurant is located in the main land of Karainager and the Resort is located in a small island around 200m away from the main land. Anyone can walk in to the restaurant for meals or snacks. Prices are reasonable and food is great, especially their seafood dishes.

There are seven forts in northern part of Sri Lanka. They are Jaffna, Kytes, Fort Hammenheil, Delft, Punarin,  Mannar, and Arippu. Fort Hammenheil  had been used as a prison later. SL Navy has converted Fort Hammenheil to a luxury resort and it is managed under SL Navy Resort chain, Malima Enterprises. They have not modified the main structures of the fort but converted three upper floor rooms to luxury rooms. In addition, one prison room with seven beds has been modified and if somebody wants to get a prison experience, those beds can be reserved at Rs. 7,000 per person. As we had prior arrangements through a contact, we were able to visit this magical location.

Towards the Base

SLNS Elara

Fort Hammenheil

Entrance

This means “Welcome”. Guests who stay here will receive a colorful Navy welcome too

Image showing how this fort was captured by English by destroying water tank

Corridor at the entrance

Walls made up of coral rocks

Mr. Rohana Wijeweera had been kept here. These are said to be his writings – Click Image to Enlarge

Another prison cell

Luxury Prison cell. Before, these beds were just cement blocks. They are now surrounded by wood and placed matrasses to convert them to comfortable beds. Rs. 7,000/- per bed if you want to be a prisoner here for a night full board. Seven vacancies available.

Prisoners belongings

Courtyard

From the other end

Modifications

“Heads” means toilets

Garden – This is at a higher elevation than courtyard

What a place to be

Watch hut in the rampart

The jetty with a water jet

The deck to watch Sun rise

The view

Restaurant as seen from FH

Restaurant

After relaxing a bit and taking some snaps at the restaurant premises, we headed towards Casurina beach to call it a day with the sun set.

Casurina Beach

Crowded in the evening

Landscapes

Amazing sun set

Getting down slowly

Hiding behind

She is up on the other side

Pinkish lagoon along the causeway

End of the day

Our plan for the third day was the visit to Delft. I too contacted Bimalan in advance for the tour. So, we repeated the previous day morning schedule and arrived at the KKD jetty at 7.15 am. Previous day we came to know that there are two boats in operation for Delft, one at 8.30 am and the other at 9.30 am, which depart from Delft at 1.30 pm and 2.30 pm respectively. Nagadeepa tours were in operation as usual and the Delft Maid, Wada Tharaki II was halted in the jetty which was supposed to depart at 8.30 am. There were only about 5 people in the jetty for Delft and there was no queue. Gate was closed and we were advised by a Navy officer to sit and wait in the nearby building until we are called up.

After about half an hour, crowds started coming in and in a matter of minutes the surrounding was jam packed with hundreds of holiday makers who were willing to step on Delft, yet there was no queue. To our disappointment, Navy informed that Wada Tharaki II will not be in operation due to some fault. Further, they informed that 9.30 boat is there but it can take only 120 passengers and there are around 100 villagers to travel usually where only 20 others will get a chance! We were among the first ten who arrived at the jetty but as the crowd was all over without a queue, who will guarantee that we will get in?

By the time crowds have grown bigger and were restless. Then Navy offered the crowds that they will make the contacts if groups are willing to go to Delft in private boats in batches of around 150, where cost will be around 18,000 for a tour. Some groups agreed and few private boats came to the jetty. They were old fishing boats and were not powerful. Estimated time to reach Delft was one and half hours. Once you get in, it is almost like trapped in because boat has a wooden roof and only small openings are there for ventilation. Other than being jam packed, noise of the engine is a headache and sometimes exhaust gas is leaking in making it very uncomfortable to stay. On top of that, most dangerous thing was that nobody had an idea as to how many people can be loaded and although life jackets were given, if something happens in the middle of the ocean, only those who stay close to windows can escape. I felt this as our return journey from Nagadeepa previous day was in such a boat. Though some groups offered to take us, we did not want to be in the sea for one and half hours taking such a risk and decided to return to Jaffna without wasting time and commence the “Day 4” schedule.

But next challenge was to inform this to Bimalan and move the appointment to the next day. Although he could understand Sinhalese and English to some extent, He never understood my “long story” and I either could not understand what he was asking. Finally the problem was solved with the help of a seller who speak both Sinhalese and Tamil, at the turn off to the jetty.

Soon we were on the roads of the Jaffna peninsula. We drove towards Puttur road along Palali road and first visited Nilavara bottomless well and then came back to Chunnakam to visit Kadurugoda temple. We did not forget to witness the road side beauty too.

By the road

Cultivations

Prosperous

Nilavara bottomless well

Closer

Everything is there

More	Brand new setting for many

Chunnakam

Entrance to Kadurugoda temple. Navy had done a great job to develop these

The stupas

Remaining foundations

Then our intention was to have a drive along the road bordering northern coastal line. So we got to Ponnalai at the junction where Karainager causeway starts and went towards Dambakola patuna. After visiting the temple and having some Beli mal from the Army café, we went to visit Keeramale Naguleswaran temple and the pond. Then we started going forward along the coastal road and it came to an end at the gate of Thal Sevana Holiday resort and Army base. Beyond that the road is closed and it is the high security zone. So we went back to Chunnakam and crossed over to Point Pedro road.

Towards Ponnalai fro Jaffna. Paddy fields up to horizon!

Iconic

Ponnalai – Karainager causeway at the distance

Dambakola Patuna Sangamitta temple

Newly built

The replica

Beautiful Dambakola Patuna beach

The Sea

The shop

Facilities for visitors to have lunch with a rest

Dambakola Patuna Vishrama shalawa. Accomodation facilities available but forgot to collect booking details

Entrance to Naguleswaram Kovil. Premises is under renovation.

The Five main Shiva Kovils around the coastal line. Naguleshwaram lies in the northern edge. (Source: internet)

Keeramale pond

They are coloured now

They too are coloured

From there we reached Thondamanaru to visit Selvasannadi Kovil. After spending some time in the kovil and enjoying the surrounding we went towards Point Pedro to see the northern most point of Sri Lanka and Point Pedro light house.

At the attempt to cross over to Point Pedro road. Carpeted road ended nowhere

Grapes farm

No fruits

Sign boards

Selva sannadi shrine where Kataragama pada yathra starts from

Inside

Shrine

Valvettithurai

Coral beach

Coastal road along the northern shore

Northern tip of Sri Lanka

Karawala

Base of the lighthouse. Tsunami water level marked.

The giant

Not safe to climb up

The lamp

After the light house, the road curved into the main land and it was the end of our coastal ride. Then we were in search of the Manalkadu sand dunes and the remaining of the Dutch church. After several inquiries we got to the junction where we turned left and went for another few kms to reach the sand dunes and Dutch church.

End of the show along the shore

At the junction to Manalkadu. Note the 9th Milepost at middle right hand corner

Sand dunes and Cyprus forest

Sand dunes

Endless

Ruined Manalkadu Dutch church

Inside

Made up of coral rocks

After witnessing the sun set at Manalkadu, it was the time to call it a day. On this day we had an invitation from a good friend of mine in Jaffna for dinner and we were there around 8.30 pm. After spending few hours of enjoyable time with his family, we came back to Uthayan rest dreaming of the second phase of the Delft tour next day.

Fire ball falling down

Sun set over sand dunes

As usual, morning course of the previous two days  was repeated on the fourth day morning too and we were on the jetty at 7.00 am being the first visitors for Delft. Wada Tharaki was still not well and only 9.30 boat “Kumudini” was available. Although we had a Navy contact, previous day we tried the tour without troubling him. But today too it was clear that same process is going to be repeated and we did not want to go in those old private boats.  As we were the first Delft travelers to arrive at the jetty, ideally we must be the first to get in to 9.30 boat after the villagers. But as there was no queue, there was no guarantee that we would get that chance. Previous day too Navy officers at the jetty were trying hard to help the crowd to get to Delft where they were too busy and being just a couple we could have lost their attention easily.  I decided to call our Navy friend and requested to secure the first chance to get in to 9.30 boat after villagers, which we deserved. He arranged it over the phone and we could stay in Navy officers rest room until the boat is ready. Surprisingly at that time our friend had been participating to some religious ceremony in Nagadeepa and on his way back we could meet him too.

It was around 8.30 and we heard some Navy officers were whispering that sea is rough. We felt shocked because boats may not operate when sea is rough. Time passed by and while we were waiting, another group came to the jetty for some official visit to Delft and there were two Navy water jets ready for them. Because of our friend, Navy officers in the jetty arranged to take us too with them in a water jet. We were surprised and excited about the lifetime ride we are going to get and got into a jet.

We were advised to pack cameras and bags and keep them inside the cabin as they could be blown out or water may splash on them. While some ladies got into the cabin and some gentlemen were standing holding the iron bars around the cabin, we sat on the base of the machine gun fixed at the back and did hold the gun tight.

It was one hell of a ride! The water jet was travelling like an arrow at a speed of 30 knots and was cutting through the waves of the rough sea, splashing water all over us. Even the lips and skin of the face were blowing away. Eyes were burning due to salt water. Time to time we had spit out salt water as it has gone inside the mouth too. We could not do anything other than holding onto the gun tight. We were at the Delft jetty within just 15 minutes!

Following our call, Bimalan appeared at the jetty and we were on the way with him witnessing the beauty of Delft. The island is 8km in length and 6km in width with a population of 6000. The land is mostly made up of coral rock and huge grasslands with white corals everywhere was a unique sight. Bimalan took us around the island showing the unique attractions one by one.

Just as you step in to the island from jetty

Landscapes

Sandy roads instead of gravel roads

Biobab tree

This is native to Africa, brought here by Arabic sailors and planted where they have stationed in order to feed camels. This had been used as a medicinal plant for horses too

Huge trunk with the hole

Inside the hole

Iconic rock fences

Made up of coral rock

Land block perfectly demarcated by a rock fence

Growing stone

Growth

Pigeon holes. Dutch people had used this to house pigeons who take messages to Jaffna. Message was tied to a leg of the pigeon and it had been trained to deliver the message and return to the same hole.

70 Holes for pigeons

English court house

The symbol

Pigeon house and court house

Old Dutch hospital

Courtyard

Delft hospital. Have to go through the hospital to reach the fort

Through the hospital

A room in the ground floor

Watch hut

The tank

Coral land

Picturesque

Wild horses, the signature of Delft. Portugese had bought horses here for their travelling. Dutch people had used this island to breed horses and sell them to ships. After their departure, those horses freely bred in the island giving life to a generation of wild horses.

Family?

Anxious

Beautiful coral beach

Drinking water wells which supply water to whole island. This part of the island contains quality fresh water.

Giants’ foot print

Land is like a rough cement floor

Horse stable. Dutch had used the island to breed and sell horses to ships. This stable had been used to keep horses prepared for selling.

It is 100m long

BOC serving the remote community

CEB depot

Mahindodaya laboratory has not forgotten Delft school too

Pradeshiya sabha

Brand new DS office

Post office

Halted at Delft jetty

Illegal Tamil Nadu fishing boat seized

The Water Jets we came

There is a Navy controlled area in the island and there is a unique light house constructed during Dutch period, which we missed. A picture of this light house is available in the passage at the entrance. At the night, a fire is set inside the base of the lighthouse using firewood and the fire comes out of the chimney. After the fire, smoke comes out of the chimney during day time. That is how it has signaled the ships sailing in its vicinity. Bimalan was not willing to go to Navy controlled area and therefore this lighthouse is not in his list. So he did not take us there and did not speak a word about it either. We too did not notice it until we got to the jetty otherwise we could have given it a try.

After two hours we could complete seeing Delft (Except the stupa which we purposely skipped due to limitation of time as we had to come in time for the return jet ride) and we were at the jetty, ready for the ride back. We could see large crowds around the jetty who have arrived in private boats and just wondering around the main street as there were no mode of transport available for them inside the island. So it is always prudent to make some prior arrangements for ground transport before visiting Delft.

Sea was even more vicious on our return journey. We too had to stand and hold on to the iron bars fixed around the cabin. Waves were so big that water was splashing even above our heads. We were totally wet just as good as a quick sea bath. It took 20 minutes for the return journey as the sea was rough.

After paying our gratitude to the Navy officers at the jetty and who operated the jets, we came to Jaffna town.

On the way we did not forget to pay a visit to the memorial of Lt. Gen. Denzil Kobbekaduwa, Maj. Gen. Wijaya Wimalaratne and other heroes at araly point.

Unbelievably beautiful and unique landscapes

Could not resist

Directions

The monument. This is not the exact place where bomb was blasted. It is around 3km away

Vehicles used to simulate the blast at the investigations to find whether bomb was in the ground or fixed to the vehicle. But evidence were not sufficient to come to a conclusion

After having a change at Uthayan rest to utilize the saved extra time to visit some places around the city close to the fort.

Then we went along Point Pedro road towards King Sankili statue. Passing it and going forward for about another 100-200m, Rajamanthri walawwa can be seen by the road to the left. Sankili arch too can be seen by the road on the opposite side.

Jaffna clock tower

Glory

Jaffna library

Hospital street, Jaffna. Parking available in the middle.

King Sankili statue

Sankili arch

Architecture

Rajamanthri walawwa, residence of the first minister of king Sankili. English rulers have done some modifications and placed a note above the entrance

Living area

Decorated with wood carvings

Artistic

Then it was time for another evening at the third causeway which is at Sangupiddy on the Mannar road via Poonaryn.

Sign of prosperity

Almost hitting the horizon

On to the causeway

Closer to Sangupiddy bridge

The bridge. Enough space for boats to cross

What a wonderful place to be

Road towards Poonaryn is under construction

Starting the show

Painted sky

Modern Sri Lanka

After having an unforgettable day, we had a nice dinner at Malayan café (Located near mini bus stand) and completed it with Rio ice cream.

Next day, which was the final day we had to return to Colombo but some key places were still remaining including the Jaffna fort. Although meals are not prepared at Uthayan rest, they arrange meals on our request and those were very tasty. Their usual time for breakfast was 8.30 but on our request the time was advanced to 7.30. (One good thing about Uthayan rest is that the owner Mr. Ravi arranges everything we request sharp on time from the bed tea. There were no delays on his part). Yet we decided to pay a visit to fort around 6.30 and come back for breakfast.

Jaffna fort is a massive pentagon of which one side is protected facing the sea and other sides are protected by two ramparts and a moat in between. It is the second largest fort in Sri Lanka where Gall fort stands on top. Dutch rulers used forts for protection. Hence there are stores of weapons and ammunition, food stores and prisons.

The Dutch church in Jaffna fort had been in very good condition until recent past but war has reduced it to a heap of rubble. English rulers did not have that much of a security threat. So they used these forts as administrative complexes. Therefore even today, administrative buildings are still located inside such forts i.e. Galle and Matara forts. English rulers have modified existing or built new buildings to suit their purposes.

There is a Queens house too inside the fort which has had facilities of a five star hotel where former prime ministers used to stay. But it has been ruined by the war and Army is using a small undestroyed portion of it.

There is an exhibition room at the entrance. There is an officer from Dept. of Archaeology who will explain the historical factors.

Plan of the fort. It is a star shaped pentagon with five bastions at the corners. They have named bastions as 1. Friesland, 2. Utrecht, 3. Gelderland, 4. Holland and 5. Zeeland. One side facing lagoon and the other four sides protected by outer rampart, moat and inner rampart. Extent is 56 acres.

Story of the fort

Entrance

Made up of Coral rock and limestone

Crossing the moat

Through the rampart

Dutch have used even stone door frames of kovils and shrines to construct this as they wanted to destroy Hinduism

Two ramparts and moat. One side bordering lagoon

Tower on one of the five corner bastions

A store room

Stores located around the rampart

More stores

Dutch church

Prison

Queens house

Mass grave of 300 Army soldiers who lost their lives in the battle at Jaffna fort

Then we went back to Uthayan and had breakfast. Then after loading our baggages and bidding farewell to Mr. Ravi we continued the city tour. First we visited Nallur Kovil and then Jaffna railway station which looks so fantastic.

Nallur Kovil

Giant wall

Jaffna railway

Travelling never been this easy

Halted

Clean and beautiful

Active

Gifted by BOC

Then we witnessed some ancient buildings belonging to Dutch and English periods on the way. Then it was time to say good bye to Jaffna. Soon we were on the return journey with awesome memories of colorful Sri Lanka.

Unique architecture. Unfortunately I cannot recall what it is.

Burned Kachcheri building of Jaffna

Huge building destroyed

Great architecture in ruins

On the way, a brand new station

Highway/Bus + Railway/Train

On the way

Good bye Jaffna

The end of an awesome journey